Keezer/Collar Build Questions:

As always, thanks in advance!

1) I see some keezer setups with the collar mounted to the body and some with the collar mounted to the lid. What are the pros/cons? I have enough tubing to connect it to the lid but I don't really know how I'll attach it-- I have liquid nails & silicone caulk -- will these hold it?

2) Does it matter if I use hardwood/pine for the collar?

3) I'm thinking a 2 x 6 piece of wood for the collar, large enough? Suggestions?

4) Can I paint the keezer? Any suggestions on what to use?

5) Do I need to seal/prime the collar wood?

6) I know the coils are in the sides of the unit, is the bottom unsafe to drill into for mounting casters?

1) I see some keezer setups with the collar mounted to the body and some with the collar mounted to the lid. What are the pros/cons? I have enough tubing to connect it to the lid but I don't really know how I'll attach it-- I have liquid nails & silicone caulk -- will these hold it? I used 2x4's and had 1x12 around the outside. That basically overlaps with the bottom and provides security. Some people just let it sit on top. Liquid nails will work fine. Attach the lid to the collar. Easier to open, easier to keep open. The weight of the collar might cause problems keeping it open.
2) Does it matter if I use hardwood/pine for the collar? Pine is fine. I'd just use some nice urethane stain. You could also just do a veneer of nice wood on the outside if you wanted to keep it cheap.

3) I'm thinking a 2 x 6 piece of wood for the collar, large enough? Suggestions? It all depends on how much headspace you need to gain. You should be able to close the lid with all the quick disconnects on the kegs....and you should think about being able to fit a carboy with airlock on the hump. You're going to want to ferment in that controlled environment. If it's deep enough for all that, you only need a thick enough board to drill a hole for the shank with some space left over for strength....2x4's are great.

4) Can I paint the keezer? Any suggestions on what to use? I used black "appliance" paint. It has since scratched, etc. and needs touchups. I'd leave it white because the original powdercoat is some durable stuff....but appearances are important with kegerators.

5) Do I need to seal/prime the collar wood? Yes.

6) I know the coils are in the sides of the unit, is the bottom unsafe to drill into for mounting casters? Make a rectangle out of 2x4's in the exact footprint of the freezer. Attach the casters to that. Make sure you buy casters that can handle the weight of a freezer and several full kegs.

Thanks scuba-- so for #6, do you suggest mounting the freezer to the wood frame or just sitting it on there? I'd figure it's not going anywhere once it's on top of it...

1)I used kitchen silicone on mine and it worked fine. I like having mine attached to the freezer so I don't' have to lift it up every time and I can still easily pour out of the faucets while I am working on stuff inside.

2) I used a pine 2x6 and wrapped it with walnut for appearances/insulation.

3) Once again, that is what I used.

4) I used the rustoleum all surface paint and it is tougher than I though it would be.

5) I did because it makes it look better and will likely hold up better. But be careful not to get star-san on the sealed wood, it will wash it out and you will have to sand/reseal it.

6) I think this would depend on your specific model of freezer.

Here is a picture of mine right after assembly to give you an idea of what I was talking about:

I like having the collar on the bottom because it is easier to be able to work on everything and knowing that is how it will stay when you close the lid. The downside is everything is 5.5" taller.

Stevorino said:

Thanks scuba-- so for #6, do you suggest mounting the freezer to the wood frame or just sitting it on there? I'd figure it's not going anywhere once it's on top of it...

Click to expand...

Yep....you can just sit in on there. You don't have to overbuild this part. 2x4's, decking screws, and some heavy duty casters will work fine. Leave the middle of the cart open, so that you get more airflow. This is actually a pretty easy project....it's just having the right parts, i.e. manifold, shanks, etc. ready to go. Another piece of advice, if I may:

Don't go crazy with buying taps. It depends on the size of your freezer, but 4 is more than enough for your average Joe to be drinking around the house and have the occasional raging party. Any more than that, and you're gonna be broke after buying all those taps and faucets. Plus, you'd have to be drinking an awful lot to have more than 4 beers on tap and not go bad before you finish them.

Don't forget to install your bev out tubing at the proper length and diameter for a good pour. If you don't do it right, you may have some issues with foaming.

ScubaSteve said:

Yep....you can just sit in on there. You don't have to overbuild this part. 2x4's, decking screws, and some heavy duty casters will work fine. Leave the middle of the cart open, so that you get more airflow. This is actually a pretty easy project....it's just having the right parts, i.e. manifold, shanks, etc. ready to go. Another piece of advice, if I may:

Don't go crazy with buying taps. It depends on the size of your freezer, but 4 is more than enough for your average Joe to be drinking around the house and have the occasional raging party. Any more than that, and you're gonna be broke after buying all those taps and faucets. Plus, you'd have to be drinking an awful lot to have more than 4 on tap and not go bad before you finish them.

Don't forget to install your bev out tubing at the proper length and diameter for a good pour. If you don't do it right, you may have some issues with foaming.

Click to expand...

Already have 4 taps sitting downstairs-- you may have been the one to recommend that a couple months ago when I bought them

Thanks!

Man...there's nothing like pouring your beer from your own tap. And just in time for Christmas! Enjoy!!!!!

ScubaSteve said:

Man...there's nothing like pouring your beer from your own tap. And just in time for Christmas! Enjoy!!!!!

Click to expand...

I know! I need to get this thing moving so I can have a Xmas Day Keg Pour. Off to Home Depot in an hour or so to get the last few supplies

ScubaSteve said:

Plus, you'd have to be drinking an awful lot to have more than 4 beers on tap and not go bad before you finish them

Click to expand...

Yup I'm going straight to AA monday morning

I used 3qtr plywood doubled up and then laminated for easy clean up. Don't use liquid nails after it cures it's as hard as a rock, silicone is the way to go. check out my pics.

Cornertown_Brewer said:

Yup I'm going straight to AA monday morning

Click to expand...

Sorry....I mean 4 different TYPES of beer, 5+ gallons each. That's 20 gallons of beer...which for one or 2 people is a lot of beer. I'm just saying 4 taps will work fine. 8 taps for the average Joe is overkill and $$$.

Stevorino said:

As always, thanks in advance!

1) I see some keezer setups with the collar mounted to the body and some with the collar mounted to the lid. What are the pros/cons? I have enough tubing to connect it to the lid but I don't really know how I'll attach it-- I have liquid nails & silicone caulk -- will these hold it?

2) Does it matter if I use hardwood/pine for the collar?

3) I'm thinking a 2 x 6 piece of wood for the collar, large enough? Suggestions?

4) Can I paint the keezer? Any suggestions on what to use?

5) Do I need to seal/prime the collar wood?

6) I know the coils are in the sides of the unit, is the bottom unsafe to drill into for mounting casters?

Click to expand...

My 2 cents:
1)attach to the lid. pros(hoses and faucets are out of the way for loading and unloading, you don't have to lift as high) cons(the lid is a little heavier depending on choice of lumber) I prefer 100%silicone caulk available at HD and Lowes. Once its dry a knife can trim off any spluge. It is more than strong enough to hold the collar to the lid.

2) use anything you want. for my lid mounted collar I used 3/4 ply and small corner brackets to hold it together.

3)my collar height is 4.5 in, so 6 in. should be plenty

4&5) you can paint or stain the wood. sealing the inside will help keep the collar from absorbing moisture over time but is not critical.

6) don't take a chance. build a frame out of 1X4 the size of the freezer footprint and mount the casters to it then set the freezer on it.

pics of mine are in my gallery.
also check out Bobby_M keezer build video