How to make a yeast starter - Pictorial

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Ok great! That way I'll only be taking that 1/2 cup of extract and I'll be putting back into the batch. Instead of taking a whole half pound and dumping it. I have 6 pounds of it so its not a huge issue, just wanted to be sure that it wasn't stupid to underpitch.
 
I'm not QUITE understanding the science behind the starter. I'm looking at my current recipe in Beersmith. I'm using US-05 which I ended up pitching 2 packs of it dry because the starter thing was confusing me.

So trying to discern this after the fact and for my future benefit, it says I need a 225 billion cells. It also says my recommended starter size is 1.55 liters. So here's my specific questions:

1.) Are they assuming I'm adding a given amount of DME to make this starter?

2.)Should you ever vary the amount of DME based on size of starter or is there a one size fits all solution?

3.) Is there any way to make a proper starter for this beer in a 1L flask because that's what I have?

4.) Are there certain situations/beers where starters are highly recommended versus hydrating dry yeast or just pitching it dry in the first place?

I just can't imagine the need to make a starter over 1L in size but perhaps I need to reconsider idk. And also, yeast isn't exactly the most expensive thing in the world so if all I'm gaining here is the potential to use 1 pack vs. 2 packs, I may be less interested in starters. But if there's other serious advantages, I'm far more interested. I tried to weed my way through this thread but it's got kind of long so I'm hoping someone might bottom line me.
 
Hi hops2it.
I will try my best to answer your questions, but like I said before, I'm no expert. This is what I have been able to figure out by what I read an what people told me.

First of all, starters are for liquid yeast only. What are the reasons for this? I can't remember unfortunately, but I have read the reason somewhere.

The goal of a starter is to put your yeast in an active state so the fermentation of your wort will start faster. When you get you yeast, it has been sitting there for a little while in a close to dormant state. Doing a starter allows it to get in shape and start doing it's work. You do it in a small quantity of "light beer" made out of either LME or DME so that it can get used to work in this kind of environnement.

For the above reason, your starter should have the same OG range as your beer - the visual recipe at the beginning of this thread will yeld somethin around 1,040 OG, which should be close enough to most regular beer.

The size of your start depends on who you talk to. Some recommend to do huge starters, some say today's liquid yeast are strong enough, etc.

One thing I strongly suggest though is that if you create a strong beer - over 1,060 OG - you should do a starter to multiply the number or yeast cells you have because some will die when the alcohol level get's higher.

Hope this helps!
 
hops2it said:
I'm not QUITE understanding the science behind the starter. I'm looking at my current recipe in Beersmith. I'm using US-05 which I ended up pitching 2 packs of it dry because the starter thing was confusing me.

So trying to discern this after the fact and for my future benefit, it says I need a 225 billion cells. It also says my recommended starter size is 1.55 liters. So here's my specific questions:

1.) Are they assuming I'm adding a given amount of DME to make this starter?

2.)Should you ever vary the amount of DME based on size of starter or is there a one size fits all solution?

3.) Is there any way to make a proper starter for this beer in a 1L flask because that's what I have?

4.) Are there certain situations/beers where starters are highly recommended versus hydrating dry yeast or just pitching it dry in the first place?

I just can't imagine the need to make a starter over 1L in size but perhaps I need to reconsider idk. And also, yeast isn't exactly the most expensive thing in the world so if all I'm gaining here is the potential to use 1 pack vs. 2 packs, I may be less interested in starters. But if there's other serious advantages, I'm far more interested. I tried to weed my way through this thread but it's got kind of long so I'm hoping someone might bottom line me.
Click to expand...

Starters are generally only for liquid yeast. Simply rehydrate your dry yeast as directed (I like to add in a little Go Ferm, but YMMV) and pitch. Dry yeast is so cheap that if you need a higher volume of yeast you can just buy another pack.

As for your questions above....

1) Yes, they're assuming you've made a starter of your desired gravity. www.yeastcalc.com can tell you how much DME to add to X volume to hit Y gravity.

2) You can step up starters, but that takes additional time. Finish your 1L starter and put in fridge 24hrs then decant off most of the liquid, then warm the slurry to pitching temps. Make another starter and when wort is chilled to pitching temps add it back to the 1L flask and put it back on your stir plate. It's a PITA but doable until you buy a 2L and 5L flask.

4) I don't use dry yeast, but unless you'd need more than say 4 packets of 11g each it's probably not worth it to make a starter. According to Mr. Malty calcs up to 1.10 OG in a 6 gal batch would only need 2 packets of 11g each.

Just rehydrate, save your starters for when using liquid yeasts
 
Zoltanar said:
The goal of a starter is to put your yeast in an active state so the fermentation of your wort will start faster. When you get you yeast, it has been sitting there for a little while in a close to dormant state. Doing a starter allows it to get in shape and start doing it's work. You do it in a small quantity of "light beer" made out of either LME or DME so that it can get used to work in this kind of environnement.
Click to expand...

My goal of a starter is to have the yeast already through the majority of their reproducing phase so that when added to the actual wort they can get straight to work. By pitching proper quantities I get faster ferments.. a 6 gal batch of 1.060 Pale Ale I just did, finished primary fermentation in 2 days.

Zoltanar said:
For the above reason, your starter should have the same OG range as your beer - the visual recipe at the beginning of this thread will yeld somethin around 1,040 OG, which should be close enough to most regular beer.
Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree here. I never want a starter over 1.040 as I want the yeast reproducing and healthy, not stressed from trying to convert a high gravity starter.

IMHO you should shoot for a starter in the 1.030 - 1.037 range. When doing a stepped starter I'll often make the final step lower, around 1.025 to give the yeast a quick reproduction burst without stressing them out trying to poop out alcohol.
 
Jukas said:
Starters are generally only for liquid yeast. Simply rehydrate your dry yeast as directed (I like to add in a little Go Ferm, but YMMV) and pitch. Dry yeast is so cheap that if you need a higher volume of yeast you can just buy another pack.

As for your questions above....

1) Yes, they're assuming you've made a starter of your desired gravity. www.yeastcalc.com can tell you how much DME to add to X volume to hit Y gravity.

2) You can step up starters, but that takes additional time. Finish your 1L starter and put in fridge 24hrs then decant off most of the liquid, then warm the slurry to pitching temps. Make another starter and when wort is chilled to pitching temps add it back to the 1L flask and put it back on your stir plate. It's a PITA but doable until you buy a 2L and 5L flask.

4) I don't use dry yeast, but unless you'd need more than say 4 packets of 11g each it's probably not worth it to make a starter. According to Mr. Malty calcs up to 1.10 OG in a 6 gal batch would only need 2 packets of 11g each.

Just rehydrate, save your starters for when using liquid yeasts
Click to expand...

Thanks to you both. That yeastcalc link is the ticket, really helped me to understand once I plugged my numbers in there. Appreciate the advice. :mug:
 
I made my first starter last night after reading and re-reading this thread to get the full gist of what to do. I have one question that I haven't seen asked yet on here. What am I looking for once the starter has been going to make sure my yeasties are active and reproducing?
What I see so far is a whitish layer on the bottom of my growler, a little, thin patch of white foam on the surface of the starter and the on the very top of the "beer" is an clear layer of liquid. Here's a pic of the starter at roughly 12 hours.


image-1614248864.jpg

I give it a little whirl whenever I walk by it which mixes it all back up and causes about an inch of fast receding foam.
I'm thinking that this is what I want to happen, but would love to get a bit of confirmation.

Thanks and Cheers!
 
Zoltanar said:
Hi hops2it.
I will try my best to answer your questions, but like I said before, I'm no expert. This is what I have been able to figure out by what I read an what people told me.

First of all, starters are for liquid yeast only. What are the reasons for this? I can't remember unfortunately, but I have read the reason somewhere.

The goal of a starter is to put your yeast in an active state so the fermentation of your wort will start faster. When you get you yeast, it has been sitting there for a little while in a close to dormant state. Doing a starter allows it to get in shape and start doing it's work. You do it in a small quantity of "light beer" made out of either LME or DME so that it can get used to work in this kind of environnement.

For the above reason, your starter should have the same OG range as your beer - the visual recipe at the beginning of this thread will yeld somethin around 1,040 OG, which should be close enough to most regular beer.

The size of your start depends on who you talk to. Some recommend to do huge starters, some say today's liquid yeast are strong enough, etc.

One thing I strongly suggest though is that if you create a strong beer - over 1,060 OG - you should do a starter to multiply the number or yeast cells you have because some will die when the alcohol level get's higher.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

It does not hurt to make a starter with dry yeast as well. Making the starter guarantees that you have viable yeast and helps to prevent under pitching. I'm no expert but i find my brews benefit from making starters regardless of dry or liquid yeast. They kick off faster and seem to ferment better.
 
scottab said:
It does not hurt to make a starter with dry yeast as well. Making the starter guarantees that you have viable yeast and helps to prevent under pitching. I'm no expert but i find my brews benefit from making starters regardless of dry or liquid yeast. They kick off faster and seem to ferment better.
Click to expand...

You can ensure viability with dry yeast by rehydrating, and can give it a head start by using a product like goferm. 20min vs 24hrs for a starter. There's nothing wrong with making a starter for dry, but it's usually so cheap that you can just pitch an extra packet.
 
Jukas said:
You can ensure viability with dry yeast by rehydrating, and can give it a head start by using a product like goferm. 20min vs 24hrs for a starter. There's nothing wrong with making a starter for dry, but it's usually so cheap that you can just pitch an extra packet.
Click to expand...

The following info is from the make beer at home website:

http://www.makebeerathome.info/homebrew-articles/97-liquid-dry-yeast

Dry yeast is inexpensive, convenient, hardy and does not require a starter. However most experts agree that a starter would be beneficial when using a dry yeast. A simple starter to rehydrate your dry yeast is available right in your brew kettle. A starter will create a larger number of yeast cells that are added to the wort resulting in a more efficient the fermentation process. A more efficient fermentation results in a better quality beer with less likeliness of contamination. To create a starter simply remove 1 cup of wort 30 minutes before the end of the boil and allow to cool in a covered container. Add the dry yeast and allow 10-30 minutes to proof. After this time the yeast should be visibly churning and/or foaming, and is ready to pitch. I also find the addition of a good yeast nutrient to your wort to be very beneficial. The best nutrient is actually dead yeast cells in the form of Vegemite or Marmite yeast extracts. The addition of a yeast nutrient to wort promotes a healthy and hearty fermentation resulting in a beer with a lower final gravity. You can use the trub from your kettle as an excellent yeast nutrient.
 
Just used this tutorial the other night to make starters from harvested yeast. I had two jars of washed WLP001 that were split from a cake used to ferment a very low gravity lawnmower beer. The harvest was only 2-3 days old, but I was making a double batch of 1.074 IIPA.

I boiled 0.2lb. of DME in a quart of water for 15 minutes or so, then cooled to ~72* (temp yeast was warmed to after sitting out for a few hours) and decanted and pitched slurry. Next morning I had stuff running down the sides and lots of visible activity despite no stir-bar, etc. Of course, these were fresh slurries.

Pitched each into ~4g of 1.074 wort about 16 hours after starters were made and they started immediately chugging. :rockin:
 
Just tried this but I think messed up a little.

I just took 900ml of water and boiled that with 1/2 cup of some Pilser Light DME for about 12 mintues (wasn't a roaring boil because I was getting some boil over issues).
Then I cooled it down to about 78.
When I opened my white labs yeast it sorta popped and yeast went all over (but still most of it was left in the tube,at least 80% of it).
I pitched it into my 1/2 gallon carboy with the mixture.

I think I should have measured and marked 1000ml on the carboy before starting so as to be able to "top it off to the correct level".

And If I was expecting the pop maybe I would not have spilled the yeast.

This is my first brew and first time pitching yeast etc. I didn't understand all the calculations on the first page to figure out how much starter I need. The beers OG is O.G. = 1.050 and I'm going to ad an alcohol boost to it as well so i don'thave the exact number.

Any advice? I plan to brew my first batch of beer this Saterday,and it is thursday morning about 1:45am now.
 
Wait for it to ferment out (everything settles to bottom, clear beer on top) then throw it in the fridge. On Saturday set the yeast out plenty early (~5-6 hours before you'll be done brewing) and let it warm to room temp, then decant off the top liquid and pour the bottom "stuff" into your fermenter when it's time to pitch yeast.
 
tre9er said:
Wait for it to ferment out (everything settles to bottom, clear beer on top) then throw it in the fridge. On Saturday set the yeast out plenty early (~5-6 hours before you'll be done brewing) and let it warm to room temp, then decant off the top liquid and pour the bottom "stuff" into your fermenter when it's time to pitch yeast.
Click to expand...

There is no action in the starter yet, however my 5 gallons apfelwein that I just dumped dry yeast into after making this starter for Saterdays beer is taking of. I'm thinking something is wrong.
 
I was debating using an airlock out of fear for fruit flies but thought with the foil and co2 escaping they wouldn't be interested. It lasted over night but just as I was going to put it in the fridge, two got in. I'll have to use an air lock next time.
 
Having learned a lot while reading this thread over the past week, i felt obliged to mention that i'm currently making my 1st starter (1L). I mixed 3.3 oz (by weight) light DME with 1200 ml (pre-boil) water. I boiled for 15 mins and the pot is sitting in an ice bath as i type. Many thanks to Death Brewer for the post and everybody else who chimed in along the way. I'm looking forward to tasting the difference in quality that a starter provides.
 
Hi there.
I don't know what the others think, but to my point of view, to save you a bit of time, since you are going to boil the water with the DME anyway, there is no point in using pre-boiled water.
This will save you a bit of troubles :)
 
cincybrewer said:
I was debating using an airlock out of fear for fruit flies but thought with the foil and co2 escaping they wouldn't be interested. It lasted over night but just as I was going to put it in the fridge, two got in. I'll have to use an air lock next time.
Click to expand...

I think someone makes plugs from some sort of sponge material. I would use that before I used an airlock. An airlock is just that, it locks the air out. You need the exchange of air for healthier yeast
 
Can anybody explain what the different layers are in the yeast starter after putting it in the fridge? From what I can tell, there are 4:
1) Dark bottom layer = dead yeast?
2) White layer = pure yeast
3) Milky brown liquid = wort with some yeast in suspension?
4) Top spent wort brown layer

I would assume the yeast would eventually all fall out of suspension with enough cold crashing. However, I'm concerned that the bottom dark layer is dead and will contribute off flavors since it is not pure fresh yeast. If anybody can clear this up, that would be great.

20121025_213619.jpg
 
That bottom brown layer is more than likely trub material - I get that all the time, even with DME. It's nothing to worry about.

Yes, with continued chilling the beer will become increasingly clear as the yeast settles out. When it's time to pitch, pour out most of the clear stuff, give the flask a good shake or swirl, and toss it in. No worries!
 
RIC0 said:
What type of yeast needs to be used for a starter???
Click to expand...

Any, of many varieties of, liquid yeast can be used for starters. Dry Yeast isn't suited to use in starters as it's supposedly already at peak condition when you open the pack so sprinkling it on as is or rehydrating is the way to go.

RIC0 said:
I have access to many kinds but im not sure which i need to use??

Can one type be used for all type of beers?
Click to expand...

It's a matter of your preference. Just like an ale yeast can be used with lager ingredients to make a perfectly good beer, just that it won't appeal to some lager aficionados and transversely you could use a lager yeast, and lager brewing practices with ale type ingredients and make a lager-ised IPA, ESB, etc.etc.

If, for example, you really like US-05, S-04, Nottingham or any other yeast in particular there's no reason why you couldn't use it in any brew you liked, unless you were entering competition and brewing to a certain style.
 
Ogri said:
It's a matter of your preference. Just like an ale yeast can be used with lager ingredients to make a perfectly good beer, just that it won't appeal to some lager aficionados and transversely you could use a lager yeast, and lager brewing practices with ale type ingredients and make a lager-ised IPA, ESB, etc.etc.

If, for example, you really like US-05, S-04, Nottingham or any other yeast in particular there's no reason why you couldn't use it in any brew you liked, unless you were entering competition and brewing to a certain style.
Click to expand...

This. That's the beauty of beer- as long as the yeast has fermentable sugars to eat, you'll end up with beer.
 
I know people were asking about foil vs foam stopper etc...

I ended up buying a mason jar from the container store, the type they sell have one piece lids versus the two piece kerr style.

I am making my first starter as we speak and I was going to use foil, however I discovered i can thread the lid on about two full rotations and the lid has plenty of give you allow co2 out and potentially o2 in without getting into that discussion.

Thought i would give everyone a heads up, a fly would have a hard time squeezing in there, although I suppose it isn't impossible. I have it sitting in a small tray incase it over flows.

I made a gravity of 1.020, that should allow the yeast to reproduce then i can store it for later right?
 
Great information! Thanks! I have one question. I have some "washed yeast" and I want to make it into a 2L starter. Could I not just make a large wort (8 cups water, 2 cups DME), add the washed yeast and put on a stir plate for 12 hrs? Is it necessery to step it up gradually?
 
Gibson40 said:
Great information! Thanks! I have one question. I have some "washed yeast" and I want to make it into a 2L starter. Could I not just make a large wort (8 cups water, 2 cups DME), add the washed yeast and put on a stir plate for 12 hrs? Is it necessery to step it up gradually?
Click to expand...

You need to get an idea for how much yeast you actually have. Has to do with how thick the slurry is, how much is non-yeast (ie. trub, hops, etc.) and how long since it was harvested. Once you have a cell count, you can determine what starter size you need for the beer you're planning.

There's really no hard-fast rule of "any harvested yeast just needs a X-liter starter and it's golden!"
 
tre9er said:
You need to get an idea for how much yeast you actually have. Has to do with how thick the slurry is, how much is non-yeast (ie. trub, hops, etc.) and how long since it was harvested. Once you have a cell count, you can determine what starter size you need for the beer you're planning.

There's really no hard-fast rule of "any harvested yeast just needs a X-liter starter and it's golden!"
Click to expand...
I harvested the yeast on Oct. 21. I have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom of a pint jar sittin in the fridge. Is there a formula to estimate the number of yeast cells I have. Mr. Malty gives me a number but I have no idea how to figure out what I have. I want to use it in a brew that will have a OG of 1.074. So I will need a pretty big starter. So... do I need to step it up gradually or can I just make a larger wort starter?
 
Gibson40 said:
I harvested the yeast on Oct. 21. I have a thin layer of yeast on the bottom of a pint jar sittin in the fridge. Is there a formula to estimate the number of yeast cells I have. Mr. Malty gives me a number but I have no idea how to figure out what I have. I want to use it in a brew that will have a OG of 1.074. So I will need a pretty big starter. So... do I need to step it up gradually or can I just make a larger wort starter?
Click to expand...

When I enter in your info under "Repitching from Slurry" in MrM it says you need 646ML of yeast. I'm guessing you don't have that many (would be nearly an entire pint-jar.

The math works out to say that you have 0.41b cells per ML of yeast in the jar right now. How many ML of yeast is in there? 100? That would mean just 41b cells are viable. Going to yeastcals to determine starter size, enter in 41, 100% viability, you can make a huge 4L starter, or you can step it up by making a 1L starter, ferment, decant, then pitch that into another 1L starter, ferment and you'll have enough.

This is with a stir-plate. If you aren't using one, you'll need about 1.5L and 1.5L to get there.
 
Looking at making a starter for an export stout this weekend. Any downside to just making the starter in my primary vessel and adding the wort right onto that?
 
Chipman said:
Looking at making a starter for an export stout this weekend. Any downside to just making the starter in my primary vessel and adding the wort right onto that?
Click to expand...

Starters are usually in the 1-4L range which would barely cover the bottom of a fermentor...probably not ideal. While you don't have to, most folks decant off the starter "beer" since it is not an ideal product.
 
Hmmm hadn't considered that one. I'll be fermenting in a pin lock corny keg so the bottom isn't terribly huge, but, it'll be easy enough to make it in something else. Thanks for the quick reply!
 
tre9er said:
When I enter in your info under "Repitching from Slurry" in MrM it says you need 646ML of yeast. I'm guessing you don't have that many (would be nearly an entire pint-jar.

The math works out to say that you have 0.41b cells per ML of yeast in the jar right now. How many ML of yeast is in there? 100? That would mean just 41b cells are viable. Going to yeastcals to determine starter size, enter in 41, 100% viability, you can make a huge 4L starter, or you can step it up by making a 1L starter, ferment, decant, then pitch that into another 1L starter, ferment and you'll have enough.

This is with a stir-plate. If you aren't using one, you'll need about 1.5L and 1.5L to get there.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Stepped it up once already. I guess I'll repeat the process 3 more times.
 
So how much yeast is being pitches in this starter??

States dme and water amount but syas nothing about how much yeast. And is this yeast from the pack that is to be used with the batch your making?
 
You will use the whole vial if you're using White Labs or the whole Smack Pack if using Wyeast. And yes, pick the strain you want because you will pitch that yeast (after its done propagating) into your wort. You're basically aiming to kick start the yeast so it's healthier and will ferment quicker. It's not as complicated as some people make it out to be.
 

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