Brewer's Hardware RIMS Build

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Lilrascal

Lilrascal

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Well a while back I ordered a Tri Clover RIMS Tube fro Derrin at Brewer's Hardware. I contacted PJ, and he was kind enough to draw up a schematic for a simple controller to run my pump and RIMS Tube. I am finally getting around to starting the project. The schematic was for a 20 amp 120v RIMS tube that would not allow the element to be powered if the pump was not on.

Here is the drawing PJ did:

Auberin-wiring1-Lilrascal-SYL-2352-basic1-RIMS.jpg



I went ahead and ordered 2 of the elements he had recommended (one as a backup). It was a Rheem SP10868GL 120V 2000W Stainless Steel Element

IMG_46301.JPG


Well I got the elements, and there is no way I can get them to fit in the tube without touching the sides. My question is has anyone else used these in Derrins RIM Tube? What are others who have the Tri clover using?

Any help would be appreciated.

Joe
 
Yeah I use the same element, but the 5500w version, in one of those tubes. Same thing, its kind of mashed against the side. Some careful bending tweaks to the base of the element minimized this, but it works fine.

The only issue this causes is the outside of the tube to get quite hot. But I've used the same element for over a year now with weekly or more use. I use the tube to recirc cleaner and sani washing sankeys at my pub.

So no worries, just make sure you can't easily touch the outside of the tube.
 
Budzu said:
Yeah I use the same element, but the 5500w version, in one of those tubes. Same thing, its kind of mashed against the side. Some careful bending tweaks to the base of the element minimized this, but it works fine.

The only issue this causes is the outside of the tube to get quite hot. But I've used the same element for over a year now with weekly or more use. I use the tube to recirc cleaner and sani washing sankeys at my pub.

So no worries, just make sure you can't easily touch the outside of the tube.
Click to expand...

Very interesting. I thought the element touching the side would be sure catastrophe. I guess I was wrong.
 
Same problem here. Same element and rims tube. I was able to pinch the two parts together a bit(carefully). It doesn't touch the sides any longer but it is close.

I definately think you should avoid it touching the sides if possible.
 
Anybody else able to chime in on whether they are using this element, or what else they are using with the Brewer's Hardware RIMS tube?
 
I've had elements of that size touch the sides of my 1 1/2" SS pipe RIMS tubes. As mentioned earlier, some careful bending of the element can avert the touching.

Specifically I used a bench vise to close the element more at the top bend where it folds back on itself. Then I placed the base of the element in the vise and slightly bent the element back at the base.
 
Lilrascal said:
Anybody else able to chime in on whether they are using this element, or what else they are using with the Brewer's Hardware RIMS tube?
Click to expand...

Just used my Brewers Hardware RIMM tube yesterday for the first time. I have a 4500W (at 240v) ss element from Lowes running on 110v. It touches the sides. I was also concerned. I ran 3, 10 gallon batches yesterday and the outside of the tube does get a bit hot. But when I tore it down to clean there did not appear to be any burn spots or anything on the element or the tube. Element was clean too. As far as I'm concerned I'm going to run it just like it is.

1 batch of a Wiess beer 50% White Wheat malt OG 1.045
2 Chimay clone with a OG of 1.072
 
wadefisher said:
Just used my Brewers Hardware RIMM tube yesterday for the first time. I have a 4500W (at 240v) ss element from Lowes running on 110v. It touches the sides. I was also concerned. I ran 3, 10 gallon batches yesterday and the outside of the tube does get a bit hot. But when I tore it down to clean there did not appear to be any burn spots or anything on the element or the tube. Element was clean too. As far as I'm concerned I'm going to run it just like it is.

1 batch of a Wiess beer 50% White Wheat malt OG 1.045
2 Chimay clone with a OG of 1.072
Click to expand...

Good to hear. I will try to get it to not touch the sides, but wont spend too much time worrying about it.
 
This may be a little :off: but has anyone had a burned flavor. Is it best to start the element after you have recirculated for a few minutes to get the smaller particles that may have gone threw the false bottom back on top of the grain bed?
 
I am also searching for the best element for the same 1.5" tri clover rims tube. bumping this thread. Hopefully someone will come in and offer some suggestions that have been tried.
 
duckdogs said:
This may be a little :off: but has anyone had a burned flavor. Is it best to start the element after you have recirculated for a few minutes to get the smaller particles that may have gone threw the false bottom back on top of the grain bed?
Click to expand...

I've done about 15 batches with my SS pipe fitting RIMS tube and have had no burned flavor. I make sure I have established a good flow before turning on the heat. It will also assist with your vorlauf, but I still run it out to a pitcher to start.

My RIMs tube has a cross at the input so heavier stuff drops out there as well and I can then open the dump valve to clean it out.
 
i purchased this element but it was only 7" and a little stubby thing instead of 11" like the product description says. Amazon said they sent the wrong item but i am not so sure. The packaging says it is part number Camco-02903 as well as 02902 which is weird. i sent it back and ordered another and if it comes back tiny and stubby again I'll send that one back too.

I was hoping to find an ULWD element to run at 240v around 2000-2500 watts that is about 9-11" long. Any suggestions?
 
sethhobrin said:
i purchased this element but it was only 7" and a little stubby thing instead of 11" like the product description says. Amazon said they sent the wrong item but i am not so sure. The packaging says it is part number Camco-02903 as well as 02902 which is weird. i sent it back and ordered another and if it comes back tiny and stubby again I'll send that one back too.

I was hoping to find an ULWD element to run at 240v around 2000-2500 watts that is about 9-11" long. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

There are a few elements here that are close to what you're looking for, some are copper some are resistored stainless. I see a 240v 2kw stainless LWD at 9.5"
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/rheemelectricelements.aspx
 
Well after some time, I finally got around to building my control box. I wanted to use PVC/Plastic for ease of cutting and drilling. I decided to use a plastic ammo can. In the bottom I used a sheet of aluminum to mount the innards to. A very special thanks to PJ who some time ago drew me a drawing for my box. I wanted the rims to not be able to fire if the pump was not on, and he was able to provide the schematics. Couldn't have done it without him.

Here are some pics:

img_4855-55388.jpg


This is the front. The timer is a sestos model from eBay. I may add a switch in which I can turn off the timer, because it doesn't seem to have a way to turn of independently.

img_4856-55389.jpg


This is the back with outlets for the RIMS tube, pump, and RTD temp probe.

img_4858-55391.jpg


The top has a separate compartment. Handy for storing extra fuses, and the temp probe.

img_4857-55390.jpg


Inside wiring not nearly as neat as others.

Now I just have to wire up the element in the tube, and test it out.
 
Lilrascal said:
img_4857-55390.jpg


Inside wiring not nearly as neat as others.
Click to expand...

Maybe a dumb question but what are those two black devices in between the contact strip and the SSR in the picture of your wiring? I understand/recognize everything else but those...I'm looking to build something similar which is why I ask. Thanks.
 
EvilBrewer said:
Maybe a dumb question but what are those two black devices in between the contact strip and the SSR in the picture of your wiring? I understand/recognize everything else but those...I'm looking to build something similar which is why I ask. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Those are contactors. They handle the amps since the illuminated push button switches can not.
 
Lilrascal said:
Those are contactors. They handle the amps since the illuminated push button switches can not.
Click to expand...

Interesting...so then do the switches turn the contactors on/off?
 
EvilBrewer said:
Interesting...so then do the switches turn the contactors on/off?
Click to expand...

Yes, essentially the contactors are big switches that are rated at different amps. The push button switches control them. Someone else may be able to provide a better explanation.
 
There's a solenoid (electromagnet) in the contactor that runs on 120v. When the switch is closed, it energizes the electromagnet and closes the contacts (get it, contactor) completing the circuit between both halves of the contactor. Turn the switch off and the electromagnet is de-energized and the spring in the contactor opens the contacts breaking the circuit between the two halves. Typically used to switch higher voltages and amperages. It's used as a safety measure since SSR's can fail and when they do they typically fail closed allowing amps to flow. The contactor is a definite purpose device and can disconnect power to the element/outlet while leaving everything else powered on.
 
stlbeer said:
There's a solenoid (electromagnet) in the contactor that runs on 120v. When the switch is closed, it energizes the electromagnet and closes the contacts (get it, contactor) completing the circuit between both halves of the contactor. Turn the switch off and the electromagnet is de-energized and the spring in the contactor opens the contacts breaking the circuit between the two halves. Typically used to switch higher voltages and amperages. It's used as a safety measure since SSR's can fail and when they do they typically fail closed allowing amps to flow. The contactor is a definite purpose device and can disconnect power to the element/outlet while leaving everything else powered on.
Click to expand...

That makes sense...thanks for explaining. Still trying to wrap my head around the different components and how they work together. This is helpful.
 
Lilrascal said:
img_4857-55390.jpg
Click to expand...

Where did you end up getting your contactors? The ones from the electrical diagram in your original post say "240V - 30A, 120V coil". Saw that you're running this on 120V 20amps, which as I understand is standard residential power. That is the same as what I plan to do.

I found all the other components that I need on Aubers site, but I don't see contactors that match the description in the electrical diagram...closest I can find is this:

"Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil"
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=129&zenid=058a1ce926203ec9d9b6c73c795b621a

Hopefully this isn't splitting hairs; I just don't want to mess around (at all) when it comes to electricity and wiring, ya know?
 
EvilBrewer said:
Where did you end up getting your contactors? The ones from the electrical diagram in your original post say "240V - 30A, 120V coil". Saw that you're running this on 120V 20amps, which as I understand is standard residential power. That is the same as what I plan to do.

I found all the other components that I need on Aubers site, but I don't see contactors that match the description in the electrical diagram...closest I can find is this:

"Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil"
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=129&zenid=058a1ce926203ec9d9b6c73c795b621a

Hopefully this isn't splitting hairs; I just don't want to mess around (at all) when it comes to electricity and wiring, ya know?
Click to expand...

There is no problem using a contactor that is rated for more amps, just do not want to use one rated for less. I went with the 20amp ones because they were cheaper at the time. I got them from Amazon. Now the 30 amp ones are cheaper if you factor in that they ship free with Prime. Here they are: Amazon 30amp Contactors. If you don't have Prime, you could always get some other stuff for your build to get to the $25 mark, such as a terminal block etc.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
crazyirishman34 said:
What sized batches are you doing? I am looking to do 10 and 15 gallon batches and want to be able to quickly ramp mash temps.
Click to expand...

I am doing 10 gallon batches. So far when I wanted to raise to mashout, I use propane and the rims. Works quickly, but I have not tried with electrical element alone since I have capability to use both.
 
Lilrascal said:
There is no problem using a contactor that is rated for more amps, just do not want to use one rated for less. I went with the 20amp ones because they were cheaper at the time...
Click to expand...

Can anyone explain the difference between a definite purpose contactor and a general purpose power relay (for example a DPDT power relay)? I understand the principle of using them...but why use one over the other? Reason I ask is because I've seen both types used in RIMS and/or all electric setups. Trying to determine which one is more appropriate for my build.
 
EvilBrewer said:
Can anyone explain the difference between a definite purpose contactor and a general purpose power relay (for example a DPDT power relay)? I understand the principle of using them...but why use one over the other? Reason I ask is because I've seen both types used in RIMS and/or all electric setups. Trying to determine which one is more appropriate for my build.
Click to expand...

I did some reading and the general answer seems to be that contactors and power relays perform the same basic function, however contactors are generally used to switch higher current lines. Put another way, a contactor is simply a power relay that is used for higher currents.

And I think there is an overlap between them--that is, high current power relays and (relatively) low current contactors that could be used somewhat interchangeably for a line with a current that falls within their rating.

So, I still don't know why to use one over the other but a contactor seems to be a safe choice.

Any insight would still be appreciated though...
 

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