What type/where to get tubing?

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kman42

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I need some tubing for the inside of my stainless braid for my DIY MT (per the Cheap and Easy MT thread) but I haven't been able to find it locally. Is there an online source for high heat, food grade tubing?

Also, what type of tubing do I need for tranfering from the MT to the kettle? I'm assuming this should also be rated for high heat. I'd lke to eventually put a quick disconnect on for when I ge my pump; any concerns there?

Finally, what size is the tubing for a blow tube on a glass fermenter?

Thanks!
 
its rated 175F continuos.. but the fact it can be steam (autoclaved), gas, or chemical sterilized and is 3a dairy, i won't worry about it. perhaps if you run boiling water though it all day, it may get extremely limp and kink if not supported. i just dont see it melting.
 
Just my opinion, i think you are better off w/out the tubing inside the braid, and simply using the braid as is. Some have reported this to cause a slow or stuck sparge...If you insist on putting something inside the braid, a coiled wire or a spring is a better option IMO.
 
+1 on coiled wire inside the braid. I put coiled copper wire (ground wire from leftover Romex) inside my braid and it works fine.
 
Just my opinion, i think you are better off w/out the tubing inside the braid, and simply using the braid as is. Some have reported this to cause a slow or stuck sparge...If you insist on putting something inside the braid, a coiled wire or a spring is a better option IMO.

Hmm...I'm having a hard time visualizing this. I thought the main purpose of the tubing was to attach the braid to the bulkhead, rather than using stainless steel clamps which seemed to corrode for some people. Is there an alternative method of attaching the braid?

thanks,
kman
 
If the clamps corrode they are not stainless. Some stainless clamps have coated steel screws and ss bands.

I use a ss braid over a copper tube and it works. It does not clog and drains just as fast as without anything in the braid. I have about an inch or so of braid sticking past the end of the copper tubing.
 
Alright, I'm going to go with the silicone tubing. This may be a stupid question, but what size tubing fits on a 3/8 inch male barb? 5/16? I'm thinking of the tubing for the outside of the tun now to transfer the wort to the kettle.
 
The tubing inside the braid is one way of trying to prevent it from crushing and/or getting pulled out of whack. However, it closes of A LOT of the open area of the braid and I can't recommend it. You're hearing everyone tell you it's not needed and some telling you it's detrimental. All signs point to not using it. A coil of stainless or copper wire inside is all you need if you're really worried about crushing it.

My favorite solution is attaching 3/8" OD soft copper tubing the bulkhead and running that down close to the bottom of the cooler almost like a manifold install but wrap that with copper wire, then put the braid over top. It stays put, reduces dead space, and flows like a mofo.
 
My favorite solution is attaching 3/8" OD soft copper tubing the bulkhead and running that down close to the bottom of the cooler almost like a manifold install but wrap that with copper wire, then put the braid over top. It stays put, reduces dead space, and flows like a mofo.

So you have a copper tube with holes for draining with copper wire wrapped around it? and braid over all that???
 
Yeah, that's exactly right. Have it go down to the bottom of the cooler from the bulkhead and then lay flat for a few inches. Put a cap on the end. Drill maybe 10 1/8" holes on the very bottom of the tube, 1/2" apart. Wrap coil of wire around the tube, then slip the braid on and clamp it to the tube at both ends.

The copper keeps the braid in position and siphons the very last bit of wort out. The coil of wire keeps the braid from laying flat on the tube, which would block a lot of the openings in the braid. Yet, it retains the very good filtration of the braid which is one advantage over typical single tube manifolds.

The only thing it doesn't really do well is fly sparging.
 
Alright, I'm going to go with the silicone tubing. This may be a stupid question, but what size tubing fits on a 3/8 inch male barb? 5/16? I'm thinking of the tubing for the outside of the tun now to transfer the wort to the kettle.

I'm assuming you're using a 3/8" ball valve on your mash tun as spec'ed out in the Quick and Easy MT thread. That's what I have and the rest of my plumbing ended up being based on that.

I use 3/8" x 5/8" silicone tubing from McMaster-Carr on my whole rig (part number 51135K37). It fits fine on a 3/8" hose barb. I fasten them up using zip ties and a tie wrap gun (picked up a Harbor Freight for $8 or so).

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If you place a quick disconnect plug on your 3/8" ball valve (part number 6739K53) and a quick disconnect socket on your hose (part number 6739K37) it'll work like a champ.

I have those sockets on all my tubing and the plugs on all my hardware (mash tun, March pumps, brew kettle, plate chiller, etc.). The only problem with going with 3/8" it that it requires lots of 1/2" to 3/8" bushings because most everything uses 1/2" fittings. Most brewers prefer going 1/2" all around because of the higher flow rate. If you're just going to do 5 gallon batches, it probably won't matter much (I'm happy with the performance on my rig) and it'll save a few dollars in parts. If you're aiming for 10 gallon batches down the road definitely consider going 1/2" now.
 
Yeah, that's exactly right. Have it go down to the bottom of the cooler from the bulkhead and then lay flat for a few inches. Put a cap on the end. Drill maybe 10 1/8" holes on the very bottom of the tube, 1/2" apart. Wrap coil of wire around the tube, then slip the braid on and clamp it to the tube at both ends.

The copper keeps the braid in position and siphons the very last bit of wort out. The coil of wire keeps the braid from laying flat on the tube, which would block a lot of the openings in the braid. Yet, it retains the very good filtration of the braid which is one advantage over typical single tube manifolds.

The only thing it doesn't really do well is fly sparging.

Cool. I currently just use an empty braid. it's worked so far but can be unnerving when stirring with my paint stirrer and drill Maybe I'll try this sometime.
 
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