Ebay SSR

Any one use these SSR in their builds with a Auber SYL-2352?
And what about these RTD?

Just wondering how they perform. Or if you're having good luck with a part that you would have paid much more for if you'd bought it from Auberins or automation direct then I'd like hear about that too.

I bought two of these Chinese ones and they've been working perfectly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State...001?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256a3dec29

I have the same ssr ^^ it seems to work fine.

J,
What did you go with for temp. probe?

Use these rtd's www.ebay.com/itm/200620995759
they are probably $60 sensors and are shipped from USA. It seems they are surplus. Very cheap at only $10. If you get them could you order 1 extra for me to save on shipping. I bought 2 but should have bought 3. I have one of those Chinese rtd's with the large terminal head Like you posted a link to but I don't like it it's too bulky.
This is the ssr I bought
www.ebay.com/itm/300634711181
buy from the same seller he shipped very quick. I got it from china in 7 days. I bought stuff from another seller in china and it took a month. I also got a tracking number to track it all the way from china for my ssr.
Buy one from the same seller but without the heatsink. I have an extra one I didn't use the one that it came with. If you only have one ssr I have a better option for a heatsink. I have one extra copper heatsink from an old PC. It's like 2 pounds of copper it works much better than the aluminum one. I did a test run last night and the copper heat sink worked great.

JRems said:

Use these rtd's www.ebay.com/itm/200620995759
they are probably $60 sensors and are shipped from USA. It seems they are surplus. Very cheap at only $10. If you get them could you order 1 extra for me to save on shipping. I bought 2 but should have bought 3.

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That looks like a nice temp probe. I like the fact that it has the armored cable. Could you give us more details on it? Like; how long is the probe, what's the thread size, does the wire disconnect from the probe, does it work with Auber's PID?

Thanks!

I have bought 2 of those SSRs from china. One failed, one worked. IMHO, it's no different from buying a cheap SSR from the US, as most of those are imported from China. If you want a good SSR, you want to spend more on a quality one, (I think OMRON makes decent ones...and there are some that are always recommended by the pros on here, but the name escapes me).

I have that exact RTD. It's a beast, love it. I ended up placing an XLR connector in it, (where the wires normally come out), so I can disconnect it from my CP at the kettle, so when I move my kettle I don't have a wire hanging.

Brickout said:

That looks like a nice temp probe. I like the fact that it has the armored cable. Could you give us more details on it? Like; how long is the probe, what's the thread size, does the wire disconnect from the probe, does it work with Auber's PID?

Thanks!

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It's a standard pt100 rtd so it works fine with the auber pid. It's all stainless, 6" probe 1/2"npt threads. The probe is adjustable you can make the probe anywhere from 1" to the full 6". The armored cable is probably stainless and very strong, it's 12 feet long. I cut mine to 8 feet. I just added a xlr on the end I didn't mind the cord hanging from the kettle.

Hmmm, decisions, decisions.

I like the fact that the Auber has the connector on the probe end and that it's 1/4" thread. So it will work well with Bobby's sight glass.

On the other hand, the eBay one has a great price, 6" probe, and armored cable. I could always add a connector and use Bargainfittings sight glass.

Would this work with one of Bobby's sightglass combo that has a T on it?

JRems said:

It's a standard pt100 rtd so it works fine with the auber pid. It's all stainless, 6" probe 1/2"npt threads. The probe is adjustable you can make the probe anywhere from 1" to the full 6". The armored cable is probably stainless and very strong, it's 12 feet long. I cut mine to 8 feet. I just added a xlr on the end I didn't mind the cord hanging from the kettle.

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vaheel said:

Would this work with one of Bobby's sightglass combo that has a T on it?

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"IMPORTANT: The female threads on the tee are 1/4" NPT so you cannot use a thermometer with 1/2" threads."

No.

J,
Where did/will you put the third probe, in the BK? Is that to just monitor the chill? I was planing just one in the HLT and one for the exit of the MLT and I'd use the dial thermonitor that came on the BK..?

Yeah the third is just to monitor the chilling and how close to boil you are. If you already have an analog one installed that would be fine. The probe was cheaper than a thermometer otherwise I probably would have used an analog as well.

Cool, just checking I ordered 3, one's for you.
I'll need to look around for the SSR, that seller is out for Chinese New Years (like 1/2 of the people that work for me).

Isn't the new year celebrarion only 1 week? Shouldn't they be back open this coming week? Do you need one or 2 ssrs? I have the stock aluminum heat sink that it came with, and I have 1 of the copper pc ones. So you probably don't need to order a heat sink. Auber also sells ssrs and they aren't too expensive ($19)considering they are in the USA. I haven't heard of any defectives ones coming from them. I got my contactors from auber I think they were only $15 each.If you are ordering a pid or contactors from them you might as well get the 40a ssr too.

JRems said:

Isn't the new year celebrarion only 1 week? Shouldn't they be back open this coming week? Do you need one or 2 ssrs? I have the stock aluminum heat sink that it came with, and I have 1 of the copper pc ones. So you probably don't need to order a heat sink. Auber also sells ssrs and they aren't too expensive ($19)considering they are in the USA. I haven't heard of any defectives ones coming from them. I got my contactors from auber I think they were only $15 each.If you are ordering a pid or contactors from them you might as well get the 40a ssr too.

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The actual new years is just like ours, 1 day. The celebration, and the "hey, I'm not working" time, can be two weeks or more. The whole thing is actually 15 days, but just like July 4th is only 1 day but we often take the week off, you'll find that the whole month can be a bust for certain folks in China.

vaheel said:

Would this work with one of Bobby's sightglass combo that has a T on it?

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I just checked with Bobby. You would have to use this sight kit and order it without the thermometer.

Thanks for checking that out!

Any downside to using this instead of one from Auberins?

Brickout said:

I just checked with Bobby. You would have to use this sight kit and order it without the thermometer.

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The Watlow RTD's from Red-Tag Liquidators on Ebay have four wires. The two that I bought just before Christmas did, anyway. The Auber Instruments PID (2352) has only three contacts for the RTD input. Not a problem. Just connect only one of the white wires from the RTD. Don't connect both white wires to the same terminal.

A reliable source tells me that Omega makes good RTD's. He used them in the R&D lab at Wolf Appliance. The Omega web site has a lot of info about RTD's in general.

I got the opposite info. I connected both white wires together. It works fine that way and was what was recommended here on hbt. Works fine that way. Maybe it works fine both ways? There wasn't any difference I could notice either way.

I ordered three of them. I only need one for now, but two are for future upgrades.

I have ordered 1/2" NPT T's that I wanted to place on my ball valves on my HLT and Mash Tun. Will those RTD's work with them being adjustable down to 1"? If not, would that simply be a matter of adding a slight extension?

I think there needs to be a thread about this sensor, I don't want to clutter this thread. But to answer your question. I think it should work in a T. The probe can slide in and out it's sealed by an o ring. If you unscrew the probe you can adjust the spring inside all the way down to the tip of the sensor and screw it back together. I would give it a try for the price. I'm sure you could always resell it here for the same price

FWIW, my Chinese SSR failed after 15 minutes of run time and caused me two days of troubleshooting to figure out why my new eBIAB setup was tripping the GFI. I would look for an Omron unit or another reputable domestic source IMO.

JRems said:

I got the opposite info. I connected both white wires together. It works fine that way and was what was recommended here on hbt. Works fine that way. Maybe it works fine both ways? There wasn't any difference I could notice either way.

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Yes 4 lead RTDs allow more accurate temperature measurement in fancy setups where the current source is connected to one pair and the voltage drop measurement is on the other pair. The current carrying leads contribute a resistance that you don't want in your measurement. Volt meters, on the other hand, use almost no current.

Hook up one or both, doesn't matter

so I could use one of these size fittings with this probe?

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Fitting-Class-Female/dp/B003GSKXFK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1328897232&sr=8-10
I take it that the probe is waterproof and only needs an o ring or teflon tape to install it?

Yes, all you need is the T tape (don't think an o-ring would work) but order it from bargainfittings.com or one of the other venders on here; they'll be less expensive and it supports the community (which I know you like to do). Business end is waterproof, everthing that will be in side the fitting is but I don't know about rest.

It really depends on your setup. You could combine it with a sight glass. You could combine it with your ball valve. Or you could have it stand alone using a 1/2" npt locknut and an o-ring.

this is for a E herms - I think I want the temp sensor on the wort return into the mash tun so the t will allow me to run the probe in the return line.

ordered the probe, now I need to find a cheap xlr connector - any ideas?

Get the xlr connectors that Kai has a link to on theelectricbrewery. I think it's a link to amazon. I got cheap ones off eBay and they aren't made very well, which is weird because they arent even Chinese, it's says Swiss made on them.

JRems said:

Get the xlr connectors that Kai has a link to on theelectricbrewery. I think it's a link to amazon. I got cheap ones off eBay and they aren't made very well, which is weird because they arent even Chinese, it's says Swiss made on them.

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Personally, I really like the ones I got from Auber.

I like the connectors, but hate the panel mount from Auber. Bought those then changed to the XLR because I wanted that recessed panel-mount.

i found some on amazon - about 16 bucks for 4 sets of male/female. guess I will have extra if I need to upgrade from PWM BK to a PID.

I don't care about them being flush - I just want something I can brew with safely.

I bought the temp sensors mentioned on here and mine aren't waterproof. Granted I'm losing like 3 drops an hour, but still. There weren't any O-rings attached inside or out either, is there something I can do to remedy this? Also, how do you adjust the length? The spring inside the housing will not move on the probe...

did you wrap the threads in teflon tape?

It's not leaking where it's screwed into the T-fitting (I taped that), it's leaking where the probe itself slides through the casing.

Mine are not instaled yet, but there is, at least on mine, an oring on the 1/2 inch conector that the probe slides onto. Tomorrow i will be brewing on a system of a friend who has the same probes I let you know if his leak or not.

Is the O-ring on the probe itself or on the connector? What size O-ring, in case I need to buy one...? Also, do you have to slide the spring to adjust the probe length? I can't seem to get it to move.

The oring is in the 1/2 inch conector, just inside the opening, if you slide the 1/2" conector down the probe you should feel it in there. I would think if ot was missing all together it would leak much faster then you are seeing. The spring is very tight on the probe but is should come off. Maybe a drop of vegetable oil would help?

Oil and some elbow grease got the spring moved, but there was definitely no o-ring. I had a rubber washer that was a bit small but still fit over the probe, so I'm going to give that a try.