1.200 20%+ 120 Minute IIPA

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sirsloop

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Its time for my annual MONSTER BREW! Last year I made a souped up version of my Trois Pistoles, called Quad Pistoles. It was a bit over 11% after it was all said and done. Gold medal winner at SplitRock beer fest too! This year I'm on a new adventure in extreme brewing, tackling the 120 minute IPA. This is going to be like a 2+ month process to complete this brew.

Starter Starter.

I cooked up a 1.2L 1.040 starter this evening for my WLP099 yeast. Its roughly 4oz if pale DME in 1.2L of water. Pitched, added some yeast nutrient and energizer, hit it with a healthy dose of O2, attached a blow off, and mounted it on my stirplate.

463779124_Eyg32-L.jpg


Monster Starter Ordinary Bitter.

The plan is to brew a 5 gallon ~1.040 Ordinary Bitter friday night to build up a nice fat yeast cake. Lessons learned from my 11+% batch, you need a S**T LOAD of yeast to finish the job dry enough. A pansy little starter isn't gonna hack it. The idea here is to brew a nice and easy batch of beer for the yeast so they can procreate with limited stress. I'll admit, I don't typically (ehh...never) brew anything "ordinary" unless its part of something "extraordinary". I used a Jamil recipe for this. Who knows, if its any good maybe I'll win something at an upcoming brew comp. Here's the recipe for this brew.

http://jdhaesloop.com/52 - Ordinary Bitter.pdf

MONSTERRRRRRRRRRRRRRR Brew!

Let the games begin! The brew goals here is a 1.200, 20+% ABV, IIPA. Why? Why not. I think the 120minute has an awesomely unique flavor and I wanna say I brewed one that big. Granted its not a session beer, but not many people can say they have pulled one off. It takes planning, care, and patience!

A couple notes about brewing a monster ale like this. Attenuation is my #1 goal in the brewing process. With a standard brew you can do 65-70% attenuation and achieve a great tasting brew. Well if you start at 1.200 you really cannot afford to hit only 70%. You'll end up with a 1.060 beer! That's enough left over sugar to completely make another pretty strong ale! The goal is at least 82% attenuation, but I bet I can get it closer to 85% over time considering how much dextrose this will have in it. The 11+% beer I did hit roughly 82% and it was all DME, and only a couple pounds of candi/lyles golden syrup. Here's the recipe for the 120min. Its a slight modification of a recipe a found online. Most of of its the same, hops are a little different, sugar additions, etc. IDK... I wouldn't have guessed 12 pounds of dextrose! HA!

http://jdhaesloop.com/53 - 120 Minute IPA.pdf

One big concern. I don't think I've ever had 17# worth of grain in my mash tun. I think the most I've ever had in there was like 14#. It'll be a damn tight fit in a 6.5 gal masher. I'll probably end up mashing around (or under) 1qt/lbs. I'm mashing for at least 90 minutes here to ensure complete conversion of all available sugars. I may let it go 120min for the hell of it. I'm mashing low to keep it dry, 149-151°F. Back to attenuation... more time I allow means more sugars are broken down. Ideally I would be able to fit a little more water in there, but this is what I have to work with. I'll double sparge it and drain out as much as possible. I'm guessing 75% efficiency. I'll be pulling out at least an extra gallons of water for the extra boil time.

Finishing at 20%+ ABV.

I read a number of threads and reviews about WLP099. A lot of people mentioned their difficulty in getting to 20% with this. A lot of people mentioned it puttered out at 12-14%. In all cases I noted one or more things they could have done extra to extend the life of their yeast. First thing is to make an easy-to-ferment starter and overpitch like crazy. In this case I'll be overpitching (23g) US-05 dry yeast, and like mentioned before, I'm using a 1.040 brew to build up excess numbers of the WLP099 for the finale.

Next you have to step your sugar additions. The grain alone is probably a little high... somewhere in the 90s for grain OG. You cannot expect yeast to be able to thrive in 1.200 wort, but they can take some sugars and a some alcohol at the same time. Add some of the sugars, ferment them, then add more. Give the yeast a chance to get hold and ferment in slightly easier conditions. Once the sugars in the grain bill are largely gone I'll pitch the WLP099 cake and start adding dextrose and oxygen.

Rouse the yeast often. Yeast buried in a cake are not fermenting! Slackers! Stir those SOB's up as often as possible early on and keep them working. Crack the whip. Once you have added all of the dextrose and fermentation seems to slow down you can lay off them. Until you near your FG, I will keep rousing them. It helps prevent stuck fermentation and will boost your attenuation %.

Nutrients are important when you start talking about extreme fermentation. We typically brew a batch of 1.050-1.070 beer, toss in some Nottinghams, and it magically ferments at 75% attenuation. In this case, the US-05 will have used up the oxygen in the brew through the grain bill. I'll add some more for the WLP099 to use for their ~100 point Odyssey. I don't want to continue adding oxygen to the end because it can lead to skunking during aging. I'm also going to be using Servomyces for the starter brew, the grain bill of the mega brew, and I'll add a cap when I pitch the WLP-099 in the IPA. I haven't used it before, but I don't see any con's listed on white labs website. In addition to that i'll probably add some Goferm when I rehydrate the US-05, and I'll be using Fermaid K during the mega brew. Keep the yeast happppy!

Temperature is pretty important. I wanted to choose a medium high temperature that's a compromise between full on crazy fermentation and limited fusel alcohol production. I think 70°F is a good temp to shoot for here. I fermented my 11% a little lower and it was great. I'm brewing this in the NJ winter. I use the distance to my sliding glass door to control temps. I measure by putting (and leaving) my thermometer under the fermenter. I can quickly turn it on and it should read pretty accurately what the core temp of the wort is. I think those sticky thermostats that go on the side can be effected by a few degrees by cold/hot air, especially through plastic.

So let see, mash low, add lots of 100% fermentable sugars like dextose post boil in steps, add nutrients when needed, add oxygen throughout the fermentation process, keep the yeast roused and working, and keep the temps in check. Anything I missed?

Anyways, I have the starter brewed for the starter starter. I plan on brewing the starter bitter friday. I'm gonna let that ferment and I'm flying to Miami until the 5th. I'll probably let the bitter ferment over that weekend and shoot for the big dog some night around the 9th-14th. Pics and updates to follow.
 
Yeah, I've put a little thought into this one...LOL. My wife is beginning to think i'm a coke dealer... I have over 14# of corn sugar piled up in my apartment now!!!
 
What enthusiasm! I love it! What I did with my monster 999 brew was took my first runnings with the densest wort and boiled that down separate from my regular boil. It got so thick and syrupy I couldn't even get a reading from the hydrometer! :O I then used that as my sugar additions. Just keep it in mind in case you don't want to use all that sugar.
 
Forgive the noob question here but I'm trying to understand....

Am correct in assuming that the WLP-099 is basically just taking over for the US-05 after it reaches its alcohol toxicity tolerance?
 
Here is another guy doing the same thing....I gotta say this is pretty crazy - I can't wait to see how they turn out!
 
Why do you want to ferment out the wort and then pitch the yeast cake? I would think that would stress the yeast going from a slightly alcoholic environment to one that has twice the alcohol. I've not done anything larger than the 999 barleywine, that I put on a yeast cake and added the candi sugar later to help in attenuation.

If you have not read it before you may get some insight from
Brew Your Own: The How-To Homebrew Beer Magazine - Techniques - 21% Alcohol All-Grain Beer
Not completely applicable to what you are doing since he made a 21% all grain instead of using sugars or DME, but still useful ideas on keeping the yeast happy.
 
That's fantastic, I am very glad to see how much thought and effort you are putting into keeping those yeast happy. I have no doubt this will be a wonderful ale.
 
Why do you want to ferment out the wort and then pitch the yeast cake? I would think that would stress the yeast going from a slightly alcoholic environment to one that has twice the alcohol. I've not done anything larger than the 999 barleywine, that I put on a yeast cake and added the candi sugar later to help in attenuation.

If you have not read it before you may get some insight from
Brew Your Own: The How-To Homebrew Beer Magazine - Techniques - 21% Alcohol All-Grain Beer
Not completely applicable to what you are doing since he made a 21% all grain instead of using sugars or DME, but still useful ideas on keeping the yeast happy.

I have read that article... good stuff! Well I'm making a WLP099 starter for a batch of beer that is really only intended to increase the overall WLP099 yeast count. I don't want to stress out the yeast while increasing their numbers, so I went with a low gravity ale (1.040). Its no different than making a 2L 1.040 starter on your stir plate, then pitching that, just its 5 gallons and I'm gonna drink the starter beer! :tank: I figured I'd let the US-05 get stressed while chewing through the first 1.090 dose, then i'll add a nice and healthy cake of WLP099 to complete the dextrose fermentation. There's really no getting around stressing out the yeast in this brew. I fully intend on adding sugar until I either run out or the yeast stall (and I have a crap load of sugar).
 
I've used WLP099, and personally I would avoid using it again for the majority of the fermentation. The flavors it imparts are very very strong astringent bandaid flavors which are really detrimental to the quality of the beer. After 4 months of aging the beer I used this in I still get some of these strong flavors that I really really don't like.

What I am doing in my 16% monster imperial strongale style beer, is to start off with WLP007 for the initial fermentation, this will get a nice clean flavor (by not introducing the undesirable phenolics of the WLP099) for the first half or more of your fermentation.
After this I'm going to crash cool my conical (to drop out as much yeast as possible) and dump out the WLP007 yeast, and after letting it warm up pitch some WLP715 (Champagne yeast) slurry from a 4L starter which will finish it off nice and clean. After this point if you need even more attenuation you could look at draining the yeast and pitching some WLP099.
This way you get all of the attenuation and fermentation you want, with hardly any of the detrimental off flavors from a long WLP099 fermentation.
 
I have read that article... good stuff! Well I'm making a WLP099 starter for a batch of beer that is really only intended to increase the overall WLP099 yeast count. I don't want to stress out the yeast while increasing their numbers, so I went with a low gravity ale (1.040). Its no different than making a 2L 1.040 starter on your stir plate, then pitching that, just its 5 gallons and I'm gonna drink the starter beer! :tank: I figured I'd let the US-05 get stressed while chewing through the first 1.090 dose, then i'll add a nice and healthy cake of WLP099 to complete the dextrose fermentation. There's really no getting around stressing out the yeast in this brew. I fully intend on adding sugar until I either run out or the yeast stall (and I have a crap load of sugar).

Sounds good to me, I think this will turn out great!
 
What enthusiasm! I love it! What I did with my monster 999 brew was took my first runnings with the densest wort and boiled that down separate from my regular boil. It got so thick and syrupy I couldn't even get a reading from the hydrometer! :O I then used that as my sugar additions. Just keep it in mind in case you don't want to use all that sugar.

But the wort is composed of maltose and maltotriose while the dextrose is a simple monosaccharide. Idea here is to make sure the yeast eat all the more complex sugars, then move to the simple sugars.
 
The starter is a excellent cream color right now.... all ready for tomorrow's starter brew! I typically put it in the fridge and have the yeast settle, but its only 1L so I figure i'll just add it straight to to fermenter as is off the plate. Maximum yeastage.
 
I have brewed with 099 with a 1.170 wort, the final grav was 1.035. My biggest recomendation is to degas. The fermentation stuck once and my friend who makes a lot of wine suggested to try degassing and fermentation started again.
 
Very cool. Thread prost'd and subscribed. I expect lots of updates. :D

I used a Jamil recipe for this.

It's a good recipe... should be a good session beer.

One big concern. I don't think I've ever had 17# worth of grain in my mash tun. I think the most I've ever had in there was like 14#. It'll be a damn tight fit in a 6.5 gal masher.

I double mashed my epic brew. It only added about 30 minutes to the brew day, and having room left in the tun makes it easier to stir the mash. I would recommend doing something similar if you are close to capacity. I would aim for 146-148*F on a mash like this and go for 120 min. Like you said you want lots of fermentables.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/epic-brew-day-98740/

Rouse the yeast often. Yeast buried in a cake are not fermenting!

Agreed. Very good idea.

+1 on the yeast nutrient. I think you have a good plan. When you start adding the sugars add the Fermaid K.

Overall plan seems solid to me. I'm planning to do something similar.
 
I have brewed with 099 with a 1.170 wort, the final grav was 1.035. My biggest recomendation is to degas. The fermentation stuck once and my friend who makes a lot of wine suggested to try degassing and fermentation started again.

Not sure how much it'll help. Wine has a lower pH than beer, so degassing would rid some carbonic acid and drop the pH to a range more suitable for the yeast. It can't hurt though, and I have found degassing does help speed up flocculation of the yeast so I have started doing this for low flocc strains...
 
good info...thanks for the tips! I have a probe out to my homebrew club to see if I can borrow a 10gal size cooler....
 
Duder, this is freakin' Epic. Sounds like you've got everything under control. Frankly, I do not have the juevos to pull of a brew of this size. :D
 
Yes, definitely keep posting how this one comes along. I ordered the trappist 3787 from brewmasters warehouse, and after a phone call, the wlp 099 was subbed instead. Its not really the same (no belgian spice) but I look at it as an opportunity. I am in the planning stages of a 20% beer, let us know how it turns out.
 
Not sure how much it'll help. Wine has a lower pH than beer, so degassing would rid some carbonic acid and drop the pH to a range more suitable for the yeast. It can't hurt though, and I have found degassing does help speed up flocculation of the yeast so I have started doing this for low flocc strains...

How does degassing a beer aid in flocculation and how would you go about doing it?
 
You can use a wine degasser and a drill... or you could just swish the beer around a little to help knock out some of the C02
 
So I had a question for those of you doing monster brews. I know that corn sugar is technically completely fermentable, but maybe it'd be nice to make it a little easier on your already highly stressed by inverting the sugar to fructose/glucose on the stove top for the sugar additions. Think this might help keep the yeast happy and improve attenuation?
 
How are you going to add all that sugar? If you're going to boil it in water than add it, you may run out of room in your fermenter!
 
I think I'm going to sprinkle it over the krausen dry. Its only a half pound of sugar every 12 hours... it should dissolve no problem while I stir around with my O2 stone.
 
So you're assuming that all the alcohol in solution eliminates any worry of infection?

I did this just recently with a 7% IPA. The sugar in the recipe added ~.71% more alcohol. Man did that thing take off after adding the sugar. It was a 1.2 lb addition.

Just a heads up, the corn sugar I use has a potential of 1.040. Beersmith claimed 1.046 but I actually measured 1 lb in 1 gallon to get a more accurate number.
 
I suppose there is risk of infection without boiling... there's gonna be like 9-10% alcohol in there when I start adding the dextrose, not to mention a ridiculous amount of yeast. I've added dextrose dry to stuff before and it was fine, although that's not really saying it wont happen.
 
When I'm ready to start the dextrose.... do you think I should rack off the US-05, or leave it in there? I don't really see any downside to leaving it in there. I'll be pitching a significant amount of WLP099. They will probably be at about the same overall numbers by the time this happens. When the alcohol gets past like 10-11% the us-05 will go dormant.
 
You do not want to add dry sugar to the fermenter - especially with using WLP099.

Not because of risk of infection, but because introducing all those nucleation sites into the wort/beer will cause excessive foaming. It will disturb all that CO2 in solution (if not degassed) and come spewing at you.

Ask Evan! about this. IIRC, he forgot sugar in his latest IIPA and went to add it later dry and this happened.
 
Just a heads up, the corn sugar I use has a potential of 1.040. Beersmith claimed 1.046 but I actually measured 1 lb in 1 gallon to get a more accurate number.

I was also confused by this, and John Palmer's assertion that 1 lb/gal of corn sugar is 46 points. Corn sugar is dextrose MONOHYDRATE, meaning, some of the mass of the sugar is bound water. Expect only 37-42 ppg for corn sugar.
 
Interesting... I wonder what the minimum amount of water I can get a half pound of sugar in. Maybe make up a batch of them. Maybe use a cup of water per half pound of sugar. Boil them briefly, cool, put it in sanitzed containers in the fridge and dump them in as needed.
 
Not sure how much it'll help. Wine has a lower pH than beer, so degassing would rid some carbonic acid and drop the pH to a range more suitable for the yeast. It can't hurt though, and I have found degassing does help speed up flocculation of the yeast so I have started doing this for low flocc strains...

I dont know if I am correct or not in my reason for degassing, but this is the logic that I had used, I hope this helps and good luck!

For me, I was degassing due to the thickness of the wort. The issue I was having is that the wort would become saturated with co2 and would seem to slow or even stop fermentation. Before we degassed the first time, we gave it a little shake, this nearly forced all of the water out of the airlock. degassing made it obvious that there was a great deal of co2 in solution and after degassing we would have fermentation again (well... vast increase in airlock activity) which seemed to slow as time progressed and saturation increased (about 2 weeks). we degassed every 2 weeks and racked every 3rd time.

The Primary fermentation was strong. I must warn you. when we pitched the wlp099 we lost roughly 1/4 of our wort due to blow off (5 gal brew, 6.5 gal carboy). We used a tube that fit directly in the carboy with no bung or anything (forget the size) and that was fully submerged (1in from the bottom) in an ale pale 2/3 full with a sanitizer/water mix. For the first 2 weeks, This sounded like machine gun fire, smelt and looked like budweiser to the point where the label we used read "so strong, it pisses budweiser". You will lose volume, and it will be loud, plae somewhere in your home that it will not annoy you.

Good luck with your endover it is a fun experiment/process plus you get some bragging rights with it. And please, Do not make the same mistake I did. All my friends wanted to try it, and I let them. Now I have 5 wine bottles left which will not be drank until I get married.
 
I'm using an 8 gallon bucket for primary... maybe I'll REALLY boil it hard and get it down to 4.5 gallons so there is some fudge factor for the dextrose additions...
 
This first time I added corn sugar to the fermenter, I used 2 cups water for the 1.2 lbs of sugar which is 1 2/3 cups per pound. Probably try 1 1/4 cups per pound next time since it wasn't too thick. I only cooled it to 80 to try and keep it less viscous. The beer was 68.
 
OK, so if you figure the ratio could get as low as 1 cup per pound... that will be 12 cups of additional water, or 3/4 gallon. Maybe i'll just take a quarter gallon and mix in 4 pounds of water. I'll use that, then make another quarter gallon. That is unless you think 1 gallon of boiled sugar water will stay in my fridge for two weeks without going icky.
 
Prosted. This thread is going to be fun to watch. GL with your monster brew man!
 
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