Fermentation only lasted 2 days.

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Jdb2012

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I am making a coffee porter from a recipe that I got from a local brew shop. This is my 3rd beer. I am a bit concerned that I did something wrong because the fermentation ended on the third day. Is this ok?
 
It is definitely still fermenting. lack of airlock activity is not a good indicator of fermentation. I'd suggest buying a hydrometer and taking a reading after 10 days. Then take another one 2 days later. If the gravity is the same, then its done fermenting.

Three days of a constant gravity reading is the only real way to tell if its done.

Edit: I meant to say 10 days minimum. I don't start taking readings until at least two weeks
 
It is definitely still fermenting. lack of airlock activity is not a good indicator of fermentation. I'd suggest buying a hydrometer and taking a reading after 10 days. Then take another one 2 days later. If the gravity is the same, then its done fermenting.

Three days of a constant gravity reading is the only real way to tell if its done.

Edit: I meant to say 10 days minimum. I don't start taking readings until at least two weeks

This...

You cannot judge fermentation being complete by airlock activity.
 
I'm in San Marcos & I'm a little let down. You created two posts for the same thing. North County people are better than that!
 
Patience ! It's not done ! Leave it alone for another 18 days , then take a hydrometer reading and you'll be ready to bottle or keg your beer.
 
What was your OG? If it was below 1.060, it's perfectly normal to get through primary fermentation in 48 to 72 hours. I agree with the others in that you should take a gravity reading to see where you are. However, you don't need to take another three weeks before you bottle. If your gravity readings are stable for at least 3 days in a row, you're ready to package.
 
What was your OG? If it was below 1.060, it's perfectly normal to get through primary fermentation in 48 to 72 hours. I agree with the others in that you should take a gravity reading to see where you are. However, you don't need to take another three weeks before you bottle. If your gravity readings are stable for at least 3 days in a row, you're ready to package.

He's right . You can take readings every few days , wasting beer , until you reach your FG , but why rush it ? Let it do its thing. Drink ALL your beer . :mug:

Stepaway_copy.jpg
 
LOL here we go again! Leave it alone for 3-4 weeks then check gravity, it should be done then bottle or keg. 12-15 seconds is still fermenting for sure at 3 days.
 
He's right . You can take readings every few days , wasting beer , until you reach your FG , but why rush it ? Let it do its thing. Drink ALL your beer . :mug:

Stepaway_copy.jpg

I wanna print this pic and stick it to my fermenter lmao
 
My OG was I believe 1.052. Violent fermentation within 6 hours. Im on day 4 and get 1 pop on airlock every 2 minutes almost. Im going to be racking I to seconday to dry hop. The kit came with a FG range if it dalls on that should I rack to secondary? Or should I do that now?
 
My OG was I believe 1.052. Violent fermentation within 6 hours. Im on day 4 and get 1 pop on airlock every 2 minutes almost. Im going to be racking I to seconday to dry hop. The kit came with a FG range if it dalls on that should I rack to secondary? Or should I do that now?

Wait. It's only day 4. You want to dryhop after the fermentation is done as the beer clears a bit, as the yeast will "pull" out hops oils as it falls to the bottom once fermentation is done.
 
Wait. It's only day 4. You want to dryhop after the fermentation is done as the beer clears a bit, as the yeast will "pull" out hops oils as it falls to the bottom once fermentation is done.

Should I wait to take a sg reading until say day 6 or 7.. what do you suggest?
 
Should I wait to take a sg reading until say day 6 or 7.. what do you suggest?

Wait 10 days or more. It needs to be clear before dryhopping in secondary. There would be no advantage to moving it before that time, as the yeast will interfere with hops oils from dryhopping and not give you the results you'd want.

I dryhop for 5-7 days before bottling, so the beer is very clear and the dryhopping imparts the maximum aroma from that.
 
Wait 10 days or more. It needs to be clear before dryhopping in secondary. There would be no advantage to moving it before that time, as the yeast will interfere with hops oils from dryhopping and not give you the results you'd want.

I dryhop for 5-7 days before bottling, so the beer is very clear and the dryhopping imparts the maximum aroma from that.

Ok I will start taking sg readings at 7 days to get three reading by day 10 just seems the bubbler doesnt even pop anymore after such a violent fermentation the first day and a half after pitching yeast
 
Ok I will start taking sg readings at 7 days to get three reading by day 10 just seems the bubbler doesnt even pop anymore after such a violent fermentation the first day and a half after pitching yeast

I would take 1 reading wait 2-3 days and take another reading; no reason to take readings 3 days in a row. The reading on day 2 will not change anything, and by skipping it means that you will be messing with the beer less often.
 
I would take 1 reading wait 2-3 days and take another reading; no reason to take readings 3 days in a row. The reading on day 2 will not change anything, and by skipping it means that you will be messing with the beer less often.

Thank you for the help. I will wait 5-6 days before racking to 5 gallon. The airlock bubble once every 90 or so seconds
 
Thank you for the help. I will wait 5-6 days before racking to 5 gallon. The airlock bubble once every 90 or so seconds

I'm not sure what the rush is- unless your instructions encourage that. Beer takes as long as it takes, and trying to hurry it along is going to give a sub-par product.

Wait. When it looks clear, then take a reading and rack it to the secondary if you feel that you must do something. (Many experienced brewers don't use that "secondary", including me usually). Mucking about it in is not going to get it drinkable faster, or any better tasting.
 
I'm not sure what the rush is- unless your instructions encourage that. Beer takes as long as it takes, and trying to hurry it along is going to give a sub-par product.

Wait. When it looks clear, then take a reading and rack it to the secondary if you feel that you must do something. (Many experienced brewers don't use that "secondary", including me usually). Mucking about it in is not going to get it drinkable faster, or any better tasting.

Thats my other issue my coworker father has been brewing for a very long time and swears that if I am dry hopping to use a secondary. No real rush just new to it and I've read controdicting information all over...thats why I am here to get more information....I've heard leaving it on the yeast cake too long after fermentation finishes is bad too... no rush just excitement and figuring things out by asking questions
 
Thats my other issue my coworker father has been brewing for a very long time and swears that if I am dry hopping to use a secondary. No real rush just new to it and I've read controdicting information all over...thats why I am here to get more information....I've heard leaving it on the yeast cake too long after fermentation finishes is bad too... no rush just excitement and figuring things out by asking questions

That makes sense.

Lots of ideas and techniques change with time, so there is some new thought on secondaries and on leaving it on the yeast cake too long (autolysis). Long time brewers who haven't kept up on newer ideas and techniques may give different advice than those who keep up to date on brewing science.

Using a decent quality yeast, and at reasonable temperatures, the beer is better off held on the yeast for at least 10 days or so, even longer, so that it can finish fermentation and then "clean up". The reason for that is that yeast will still scrounge for food when the easiest food (the sugars in beer) is gone. They will then digest less preferred sugars, and then other things like even their own waste products like diacetyl. This makes a better beer.

After that process, at about day 10 give or take depending on the yeast strain and temperature, the beer will start to clear. Once it is clear, it can be packaged or dryhopped at that point.

You can certainly move it to a new vessel for dryhopping- just be careful to siphon carefully as to avoid oxygenation. Or it can stay where it is as well. Either way is acceptable and should work out well for you.
 
That makes sense.

Lots of ideas and techniques change with time, so there is some new thought on secondaries and on leaving it on the yeast cake too long (autolysis). Long time brewers who haven't kept up on newer ideas and techniques may give different advice than those who keep up to date on brewing science.

Using a decent quality yeast, and at reasonable temperatures, the beer is better off held on the yeast for at least 10 days or so, even longer, so that it can finish fermentation and then "clean up". The reason for that is that yeast will still scrounge for food when the easiest food (the sugars in beer) is gone. They will then digest less preferred sugars, and then other things like even their own waste products like diacetyl. This makes a better beer.

After that process, at about day 10 give or take depending on the yeast strain and temperature, the beer will start to clear. Once it is clear, it can be packaged or dryhopped at that point.

You can certainly move it to a new vessel for dryhopping- just be careful to siphon carefully as to avoid oxygenation. Or it can stay where it is as well. Either way is acceptable and should work out well for you.

Thanks. I will wait until its clearing before racking to 5 gal and dryhopping. Next batch I wont rack to secondary and I can see if there is any difference.
 
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