Keg Force Carbing Methods Illustrated

If I need something fast for an event or something like that I have a carbstone attached to a lid.

BrewerDon said:

In the original post of this thread, a carbonation chart is referred to. If I use this chart and carbonate using method #1, set and forget, do I need to make any adjustments for head space? Asked differently, should I do anything different with a 5 gallon keg that is half full of uncarbed beer vs. a 5 gallon keg that is 100% full of uncarbed beer?

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No. Full disclosure, I don't keg. But, if you keep the CO2 hooked up, you will be fine.

Thanks Red!

I was watching this youtube video, and apparently there is a third option - if your beer is cold in the keg and you attach the CO2 and just slosh it a little big (not shake it hard) you can actually hear the CO2 going *into* the beer. That seems much less error prone than the burst method if you have only a simple CO2 delivery setup... (15 minutes isn't that long...)


Thanks - I just put some sweet potato beer into the primary... I get to try this first time in a few weeks!

Patti

So I just racked my first batch to a corny keg today. Just looking for some confirmation on whether I'm doing this right.

Beer (Mexican Cerveza) in primary for 3 1/2 weeks at 65F ambient
OG 11.4 Brix
FG 4.8 Brix
Refractometer Corrected ABV% 5.02


I cleaned and sanitized the keg thoroughly.
Then I racked the beer into the keg.
Sealed the keg
Pressurized keg to 9 psi
Removed gas line
Placed keg in keezer at 37F and raised the temp controller to 45F.


So I guess after reading this whole thread, I should go back to the house and connect a gas line to the keg. I normally keep my keezer serving pressure at around 11-12 psi at 37F.

I should just let the keg carbonate on its own time schedule at the 12 psi and check it in 10-14 days?

Is there anything bad about trying half a pint while it is carbonating?

CidahMastah said:

So process is:
a. take room temp keg and put into your keezer
b. set psi to 55-60psi (be sure your beer side post is not connected - it should hold the pressure but let's not tempt a geyser, I am not sure how well you installed your beer line )
c. leave up to 24 hours
d. disconnect gas port and lower psi to serving pressure (i.e. 12psi) - vent the line as needed before hooking back up.
To answer your question:
e. burp your keg fully once and hook up your gas line.
f. let it sit for an hour or two to stabilize a bit then try a pour.

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1. How do I vent the line?
2. What if I connected the beer line while I was at high pressure. Can I just disconnect it without risking a blow off or big mess?

Typical impatient college kid here. I set my keg outside, get it to about 36 degrees, put it on 30 PSI for a few hours, then roll it around on the ground on a towel with the air valve on the top part until it becomes so agitated that the liquid doesn't move anymore. Drop it to 20psi, put it in my fridge, it will be at temp by the next morning. the next evening I purge it, drop it to ~11psi, serve, and it is basically perfect. If it is something I want heavily carb'd I will give it 36 hours at 20psi instead of ~24.

The very first message refers to a chart (linked) and a drawing (embedded?). have no trouble seeing the chart by following the link, but I'm not at all able to see the drawing. Can others see it? Has it been removed?

It's weird that a lot of people are having trouble seeing my images. I just moved the file to another host, let me know if you can see it in the first post.

Bobby_M said:

It's weird that a lot of people are having trouble seeing my images. I just moved the file to another host, let me know if you can see it in the first post.

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Thank you very kindly for fixing this! I am now able to see it. What a helpful drawing!

Based on the asymptotic nature of the curves, I would suspect that, if the initial pressure was set a few pounds higher, say at 13 or 14 rather than 12, and then just left at that pressure, then after two weeks, it should just about be at the right pressure. You can then purge the 1-2 pounds off and it should be about right, saving a week of additional waiting.

Bobby_M said:

It's weird that a lot of people are having trouble seeing my images. I just moved the file to another host, let me know if you can see it in the first post.

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I can see it fine - and being a hard-core "set 'n' forget" carber, the green curve totally matches the experience I've had over the years - for brews that finish in the 1.010-12 range anyway. Two weeks to a good carb, three weeks to perfect.

My big stouts (90+ point OGs/~20 point FGs) need more time - at least another week, or two...

Cheers!

how does this sound?

I have a hefe that is ready to keg. I would like to have it ready for superbowl.
My plan was to set the reg to 12psi, rock it until I can't hear the co2 going in any longer, and just leave it until Sunday in my fridge (36F). Burp keg, set the reg down to serving presure.

This plan sound ok?

Thanks for the great information. I have not read all 85 pages, so sorry if this was covered earlier.

Is it possible to keg, purge out o2, then bring the pressure up to XX psi, disconnect the keg and store in my garage (approx.35 degrees F) until needed and have carbonation fairly close the first day in the kegerator?

The reason I ask as my kegerator is only capable of holding 2 kegs and I would like to have a 3rd ready and carbonated on the side.

If this is possible, what PSI would be needed and is that PSI above what the 5 gal ball locks I am using are rated. (How would I calculate)

Thanks!

Jacinthebox said:

how does this sound?

I have a hefe that is ready to keg. I would like to have it ready for superbowl.
My plan was to set the reg to 12psi, rock it until I can't hear the co2 going in any longer, and just leave it until Sunday in my fridge (36F). Burp keg, set the reg down to serving presure.

This plan sound ok?

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Yes, with the caveat that you want to be careful about beer backing up the gas line and nailing your regulator. If you have an anti-backflow check valve that is functional (and not stuck open) you should be fine, but it's always a good idea to try to keep the gas dip tube at 12 o'clock when you're rocking the keg.

Whoops - make that two caveats, with the second being the actual gas pressure you use should match up with the beer temperature while you're carbing the keg. If the beer is warm you'll need a higher pressure to achieve the desired volumes of CO2 than if the keg is already at that 36°F...

Cheers!

keend0 said:

[...]Is it possible to keg, purge out o2, then bring the pressure up to XX psi, disconnect the keg and store in my garage (approx.35 degrees F) until needed and have carbonation fairly close the first day in the kegerator?[...]

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You would need the equivalent of roughly 1.7 cubic feet of CO2 @STP trapped in the volume of the keg head space (which would be about a quart if this is a 5 gallon corny keg and you put 5 gallons in it) to carbonate the beer to the typical 2.5 volumes of CO2.

The pressure at STP for dry air at sea level is almost 15psi. 1 quart equals .033 cubic feet, roughly 1/51th of the required gas volume. So, if my math is right, you'd need to pressurize the head space with CO2 at roughly 51 times 15psi - or 765 psi. Which will kill you and anyone else within range of the shrapnel if the PRV is defective.

Put another way: No.

Cheers!

keend0 said:

Thanks for the great information. I have not read all 85 pages, so sorry if this was covered earlier.

Is it possible to keg, purge out o2, then bring the pressure up to XX psi, disconnect the keg and store in my garage (approx.35 degrees F) until needed and have carbonation fairly close the first day in the kegerator?

Thanks!

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What I have done is pressurize it at about 35 psi, disconnect the CO2 (attach it back to your other kegs), let the keg sit for 12 hours, pressurize it again, let it sit again for 12 hours, and continue this for 3 or 4 days. Then drop the pressure to about 20 psi and repeat again for a couple of days. Then drop it to the proper pressure and repeat until it no longer loses pressure. You can also speed it up if you rock the keg during the first time you pressurize it. In fact, I use this method with all my kegs, and never leave the CO2 container attached. I don't have room in my temperature controlled freezer for the twenty pound CO2 container and have no desire to drill holes in the freezer so that the CO2 lines can be inserted. I have never seen anyone else mention this method, but it definitely works for me.

day_trippr said:

Yes, with the caveat that you want to be careful about beer backing up the gas line and nailing your regulator. If you have an anti-backflow check valve that is functional (and not stuck open) you should be fine, but it's always a good idea to try to keep the gas dip tube at 12 o'clock when you're rocking the keg.

Whoops - make that two caveats, with the second being the actual gas pressure you use should match up with the beer temperature while you're carbing the keg. If the beer is warm you'll need a higher pressure to achieve the desired volumes of CO2 than if the keg is already at that 36°F...

Cheers!

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Great thanks for the help...
The keg was chilled to 36-37F...set the psi to 12.5...rocked for a few min until I couldn't hear the gas burping in the keg any longer...placed back in the fridge....I will check it in a few days to see how it's doing

Hey! Have tried the forced carbed method for a while. Have had great success in the past.

This last beer. I had to store it at room temperature because I have no more space. Turns out its pretty freaking hot down here. Its around 80-85F. No im not from the Suddan ! LOL Im from south america.

Ive had this keg at 35PSI for a week now and it seems ok. But has little to no bubbles and huge foam that disipates quickly. Im obviuosly not serving at high press. I purge and let sit for 5 mins. Repeat this for a couple of times before serving.

My question is. Even at high temperature the co2 will eventually mix into solution and gives me bubbles? Or do I need to have it cold to the co2 fully dissolve into solution ?

Thanks in advance fro reading.

Cheers!

I'm no expert here but 80-85F is very hot for your beer to be at for drinking much less carbonation. What I do know is that the higher the temperature, the less able a liquid is to absorb and retain a gas in solution.

I am able to force carb a beer in my keezer with about 12 or 13 psi in just a few days at 41F.

If your able to get it into a fridge to cool it down do it.

kike_gimenez said:

Hey! Have tried the forced carbed method for a while. Have had great success in the past.

This last beer. I had to store it at room temperature because I have no more space. Turns out its pretty freaking hot down here. Its around 80-85F. No im not from the Suddan ! LOL Im from south america.

Ive had this keg at 35PSI for a week now and it seems ok. But has little to no bubbles and huge foam that disipates quickly. Im obviuosly not serving at high press. I purge and let sit for 5 mins. Repeat this for a couple of times before serving.

My question is. Even at high temperature the co2 will eventually mix into solution and gives me bubbles? Or do I need to have it cold to the co2 fully dissolve into solution ?

Thanks in advance fro reading.

Cheers!

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You can carb beer at that temp but you would need a lot more pressure. It takes about 100psi at room temp to carb water so you would need something on the order of 150psi. Also you are going to loose all the carbonation when you serve the beer at that temp

crazyirishman34 said:

You can carb beer at that temp but you would need a lot more pressure. It takes about 100psi at room temp to carb water so you would need something on the order of 150psi. Also you are going to loose all the carbonation when you serve the beer at that temp

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Ummm.....No.

As our friend the handy Keg Carbonation Calculator shows, at 85°F, 38psi will bring the beer to 2.5 volumes of CO2 eventually...

Cheers!

Yeah at that pressure and temp you can get 2.5 volumes. But it will take a year to reach that and if you try to serve the beer at that pressure it will be flat any way.

crazyirishman34 said:

Yeah at that pressure and temp you can get 2.5 volumes. But it will take a year to reach that and if you try to serve the beer at that pressure it will be flat any way.

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First, under the prescribed pressure, it will take two to three weeks, same as always.

Second, given enough beer line, you could serve it just fine. Why you'd want to is a whole 'nuther story...

Cheers!

Yes, given the charts you'll need about 2 weeks. I actually doubt you could dispense at 80F no matter how long the lines are because even if the beer trickles into the glass, it's going to come out of solution very quickly. In any case, you'll not be able to dispense into a glass and then put into a fridge for chilling down. You may be able to to transfer to a smaller vessel like a soda bottle while maintaining a lot of counterpressure though.

I have a poor mans beergun which has worked me pretty well for over a year.

It has been a little over two weeks @ 38 psi. I just bottled one bottle for testing tonight or tomorrow.

Tho I feel 3 full weeks Its gonna give me the carb I want.

Will keep posted

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kike_gimenez said:

I have a poor mans beergun which has worked me pretty well for over a year.

It has been a little over two weeks @ 38 psi. I just bottled one bottle for testing tonight or tomorrow.

Tho I feel 3 full weeks Its gonna give me the carb I want.

Will keep posted

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Home Brew mobile app

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Buy or make a "jockey box". You carbonate at room temp, but with ice in the cooler you serve cold beer.

I just force carbed my first keg and this diagram explains a lot. Thanks!

day_trippr said:

Ummm.....No.

As our friend the handy Keg Carbonation Calculator shows, at 85°F, 38psi will bring the beer to 2.5 volumes of CO2 eventually...

Cheers!

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I'm planning on kegging in American wheat this weekend .im bottling about a 12 pack before force carbonating using beer gun w/prime tabs.should I cold crash it. I want to bottle from the keg then force carb the rest. I may just move to the keg, from secondary fermenter, at 68°, and under very low psi, bottle a twelve pak. Then just move the keg to the keggeraror . Any advise? My beverage air does get as low as 26°

I think i am still a bit confused. I am about to do my first kegging (Honey amber and Strawberry blonde). I just purchased these kegs used and about to replace the seals and give them a good cleaning. Now here is my problem I need the kegs ready for the 5th for a party just under a week and I can only store the kegs in my basement which is currently around 60F.

If, I understand this method properly I should set the kegs to 30psi for a day, disconnect, purge and reconnect to a lower PSI (according to the chart 16psi).

I will be serving the beer out of a trash-a-rator and I will have the kegs on ice at least 24 hours before the party. When serving should I reduce pressure to 5-10psi?

Ok, I've been reading these comments all the way back from 2008. I have a batch of IPA in a secondary going into my corny keg in a week or so. I'll have it chilled in my kegerator before I start my carbonation. 30psi for 24 hrs, purge, set regulator to 10psi for about a week to get to desired carbonation... Do I leave the Co2 at 10 until the keg is dry? Do I push the beer out at 10psi or do I have to reduce the pressure each time I serve?

I have been serving at my carbonating pressure, it works fine. Currently have an IPA at 8-10 psi at 40 degrees.


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Jman_01 said:

I have been serving at my carbonating pressure, it works fine.[...]

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This is the only way to do it right.
There is no good alternative...

Cheers!

day_trippr said:

This is the only way to do it right.
There is no good alternative...

Cheers!

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Thanks to all for the recommendations. I now have what I would call perfect beer coming out of my keg. Carbed at 30psi for 24 hrs, reduced to 13-14psi and a few days later it's pouring great and carbonated almost perfect... Awesome...

Don

I completely agree with the chart on page 1, as I have done all 3 versions.
I ferment ales 67 F for 7 days, raise temp to 72 F for 2 days, add gelatin and crash to around 35 F.
I wait 6 weeks until beer is brilliant (this is for competition only - if not, go 3-4 weeks)
Rack to keg, pressure up to 30 psi for 24 hours, burp keg and set to 11 psi and let go for 2+ weeks.
Beer is good - real good.
The chart on page 1 hit it right on the head.

What is the proper procedure if you carbonate a keg at room temp using the regular psi for the temp, then put into a kegerator? Ie 28 psi @64? and then throw it in the kegerator? Do you just degass and serve at the appropriate psi for the beer temp like 11 or so at 36?

"Yes"?

Our favorite carbonation table would say to achieve a middle of the road carbonation level of 2.5 volumes at 64°F you'd set the regulator to 26-27 psi and let it sit for a couple of weeks.

If you were to drop the temperature of the brew at any subsequent time from the initial setup, you'd want to make the corresponding adjustment to the CO2 pressure regulator to maintain the same carbonation level or goal. At 40°F you'd set the pressure to 12-13 psi to continue/maintain the same carbonation level ...

Cheers!

Makes sense. Should you degass first prior to putting on the lower psi when putting in the fridge or not? I almost understand the concept haha

Yes, it's generally a good idea to release the head pressure when lowering the gas supply pressure - especially if the keg may have been filled above the gas dip tube (in which case you better hope your lid has a manual PRV)...

Cheers!

SupervisingChildren said:

Should you degass first prior to putting on the lower psi when putting in the fridge or not?

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No. Do you degas your bottles before putting them in the fridge? Think about it. It's pointless to vent a properly filled keg with a check valve.




edit:
There's no excuse for not having a check valve. They are a "must have" for kegging, but most of the valves that come with keg kits have them built in.