DIY Bleeder Valve?

this looks do-able, but i really don't know what parts would be needed.

Aside from the gauge and the quick disconnect, I think all the parts can be picked up at home depot. I've been thinking about putting one together, if I ever get around to it I'll post a parts list here (or even better maybe someone else already has)

Bokonon said:

Aside from the gauge and the quick disconnect, I think all the parts can be picked up at home depot. I've been thinking about putting one together, if I ever get around to it I'll post a parts list here (or even better maybe someone else already has)

Click to expand...

i was there today, there are gauges that look like they will work. i'm just not sure about those connections between the disconnect and the T.

I've got one built. http://www.thefatmanbrewery.com/10.html photo #7. It does not take much, all parts are aviable from ACE or Lowes.

Those are flare fittings with what looks to me like a 1" long piece of 1/4" copper tubing that has been flared at both ends. Nothing says you couldn't just use a barbed disconnect, a short piece of hose, then to a barb threaded into the Tee.

Is the end valve being opened by hand to lower the pressure? Or is it automatically venting when reaching a certain pressure?

jrpark22000 said:

I've got one built. http://www.thefatmanbrewery.com/10.html photo #7. It does not take much, all parts are aviable from ACE or Lowes.

Click to expand...

do you by chance have a parts list?

thanks for the great responses everyone. just moving into kegging, i've found this piece of equipment to be seemingly essential for force carbonating. are other people using this or something similar like a rotameter, or just guessing?

Bobby_M said:

Nothing says you couldn't just use a barbed disconnect, a short piece of hose, then to a barb threaded into the Tee.

Click to expand...

what about going straight from the disconnect to the T? this was my original thought.

No good. The threads on the disconnect are for a flare nut. The threads on the Tee would be NPT. I have seen a flare to flare coupling though. You'd thread an NPT to flare fitting into the Tee and then use the flare coupling between them.

Mcmaster sells adjustable pressure relief valves but many of them are really pricy. I think I saw one under $20 though I'm too lazy to look again. You'd be looking at this as a spunding valve... search for Wortmonger's pressurized fermenting thread.

This is really only useful if you naturally prime your kegs or if you want to dial a pressure in away from your kegger. You can do the same thing in the kegger by venting the keg almost flat, setting your new desired pressure on the regulator, then reconnect the connector.

I'm all for DIY, but northern brewer sells that whole assembly for $25. I'm not sure I could buy all those parts locally for much less than that.

Bobby_M said:

This is really only useful if you naturally prime your kegs or if you want to dial a pressure in away from your kegger. You can do the same thing in the kegger by venting the keg almost flat, setting your new desired pressure on the regulator, then reconnect the connector.

Click to expand...

i was looking at it in the context of force carbonating as explained here:

http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=42329

5 Minute Carbonation - If you're in a hurry, you can carbonate your beer within 5 minutes (however, I'd suggest leaving it overnight at a minimum after doing so). The easiest way I've found to do this is to obtain a bleeder valve like the one shown in the first picture below. The bleeder valve will let you know what the pressure in the keg is....very helpful as you'll see in a minute....

After shaking vigorously for 30-40 seconds, I attach the bleeder valve to the "IN" post to see where the pressure has equalized.

Click to expand...

Does anyone know what that valve on the end does? can you press it down to release pressure? or is it a safety blowoff thing?

MrFebtober said:

I'm all for DIY, but northern brewer sells that whole assembly for $25. I'm not sure I could buy all those parts locally for much less than that.

Click to expand...

Yes, you should check that. All the little pieces can easily add up. I've tried finding a suitable pressure cauge locally and didn't have much luck.

Kai

stevecaaster said:

Does anyone know what that valve on the end does? can you press it down to release pressure? or is it a safety blowoff thing?

Click to expand...

You open the valve manually to release pressure. If your kegs have pull rings on the pressure reliefs (most do), you don't need the valve.

Here's a good How To....

http://www.hbd.org/carboy/kegpresstester.htm