What are you controlling with it?
5500W element in my HLT
What are you controlling with it?
120 or 240?
That is 240VAC
How does this work if the Love maxes out at 16 amps?
Well, the amps would be higher at 120VAC, but...
You use an SSR to switch the current, not the Love... the Love just tells the SSR to do so.
Well, the amps would be higher at 120VAC, but...
You use an SSR to switch the current, not the Love... the Love just tells the SSR to do so.
I'm overthinking a bit
120 I'm fine but my brain gets mushy with 240
The dual relay thing is getting to me.
This. I am just using the LOVE to tell the SSR to come on or shut off.
It is 240V .. and at the moment I only have one SSR.
Shouldnt you split the 240 legs?
Safety?
If you ONLY use our PID/SSR to turn on and off the power, you really need to have (2) SSRs or an SSRD to cut power to both legs, really, yes. I am using (2) SSRs per element and one for each pump, 10 in all
I'll be plugging mine into a cable that we use in the event of a power outage.
Power goes out we shut off the main and plug that cable into the genset then cycle the breaker.
Its wired to a double pole breaker in the panel and is always off.
That cable has a male twist lock plug.
The work box I make up will have the female side to facilitate using this power source.
I would probably be fine with a single SSR as it would be unplugged and put away after each use.
Shouldnt you split the 240 legs?
Safety?
If I can find another SSR that matches the one I have I will.
I have a DPST switch that I use to kill the element completley.
It isnt necessarily about after use... it is about the fact that when the PID isnt commanding the element on, there is still current running to your kettle. I would just prefer to know that if the element isnt heating, the element is DEAD, which is why I chose to use dual SSRs on each element.
Friday Night: A chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 8. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Saturday: A chance of snow showers. Cloudy, with a high near 20. Chance of precipitation is 50%.
Saturday Night: A chance of snow. Cloudy, with a low around 8. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Sunday: Partly sunny, with a high near 28.
Sunday Night: Clear, with a low around 14.
With that, I dont see much need for dual SSRs, just MHO
ROFL
I just got confused again.
What if you forget the shut off the switch?
It is basically a safey, it is off when you arent wanting to run the kettle (or whatever) I suppose you can forget to shut it off, but it is better than not having the option to forget it!
Cliff... the SS chiller conspiracy has been beaten worse than a dead horse around here. To summerize, it make no appreciable difference. All else equal, SS make take 1 minute longer on a 10g batch. With my SS chiller exactly like POL's, I could chill 10g from boil to lager pitch temps in about 18 minutes with 55ºF groundwater. Search around if you want to see details, there are a ton of threads about it.
It isnt necessarily about after use... it is about the fact that when the PID isnt commanding the element on, there is still current running to your kettle. I would just prefer to know that if the element isnt heating, the element is DEAD, which is why I chose to use dual SSRs on each element.
You mean against the chance that there might be an accidental ground fault in the 240 line sending power through the neutral lines or maybe the ground~??
So, against that possibility you are interrupting both the hot and neutral lines off with an SSR?
There is no Neutral using 240V. It's 120V on each side 180 deg out of phase. The potential between the two is 240V.
The SSRs cut off each one of the 120V legs. You can cut one leg loose and stop current flow and the element would be 'off'. However, one of the wires going to the element will have 120V on it still. So to be safe he is cutting both 120V legs to the element.
WOW, that is gonna be one awesome rig!
The tech stuff is WAY over my head, but all that stainless is awesome to look at!
All hots on my system will be cut with SSRs... no hots left hot when a certain portion of the rig is commanded off. So if I go into the BCS and select (RIMS HEATER 1) OFF... it is off, there is no current to that element at all, period.
True, if you cut ONE hot, the element isnt heating, but you can still get a poke.
This seemed reasonable to me. SSRs and heatsinks are cheap and I dont want to have SS everything and then have all of this current running around the rig when everything is "off" in the BCS. I am NOT going to tell anyone how to build thier rig, and I am not saying my way is the "right" way... but this is the reasoning that I used.
240V is actually single phase that is center tapped for the neutral. They appear opposite phase compared to the neutral because you are looking at opposite sides of the wave but you actually have single phase 240V delivered.
So are you using three SSR's for your 240v? one for PID function and 2 to cut power?
When I hit the switch for my 120v relay the current is off. On my 240v I have one SSR going to the PWM control which I can turn down to the "off" position, and the second SSR on a switch to cut the second leg.
With the BCS, can you just cut signal to both SSR's and then a third on a physical switch?
You're not telling me anything I don't already understand. Just trying to explain something to some one who clearly doesn't understand the concept. Mirrored/180 oop is it really necessary to split hairs for this application?
Thanks for the education....
Why do I need three switches (SSRs)?
I've been in the appliance repair business for over 30 years. I still run into guys that don't understand the correct way of thinking about it and still don't understand why it isn't considered "two phase". Your way of explaining it is EXACTLY the way it was first explained to these guys and it is hard for them to get that out of their thinking. (I didn't actually understand it until taking a engineering course) So to you it might be a 'hair' but I have seen people walking around confused for YEARS because of it. I think it is actually easier to explain it as a 240 volt transformer that is center tapped for neutral from the start. Now it is intuitive as to why it is single phase. Just MY experience though.
Me No Seeee New Pics
Duh, forgot U r su-fist-a-cated. What is the material? I like the originality. I thought it was going to be all boring, like stainless.
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