New Kegerator Conversion Kit

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cheezemm

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It would be helpful if I could get some of you experienced guys/gals subscribed to this thread. I'm a complete keg n00b and have been reading through as much as I possibly can, but my conversion kit arrived from keg connection yesterday and I want to start putting it together. I plan on doing this with pictures (you know, the teach a man to fish type thing). I'm a bit overwhelmed, but am one of those people who must understand how the system works inside and out before loading it into a fridge and putting my precious gold into it:eek:

Question number 1:

The ball lock kegs arrived under pressure, I pulled on the relief valve and PSHHHHHHHHHH. Clearly, they have a good seal and are holding pressure. Should I let all of this pressure off so I can begin getting to work on the O-rings etc.?

P.S. DAMN, I'm excited for kegging:rockin:
 
Yes you need to relieve the pressure in the kegs to begin replacing the o-rings. Without releasing the pressure you won't even be able to open the kegs. The reason they showed up this way is because when they were in service co2 was used to push the soda syrup out of the corny kegs, hence the pressure in the kegs. If they all have good pressure you might wait on replacing the o-rings and just clean them thoroughly with HOT water and PBW. Let them soak like this for a few days and then rinse and sanitize. Now you've got kegs ready for use.
 
What he said. Yes. You have to release the pressure to open them.

They generally clean the kegs before they ship them. I would still give them a quick clean and sanitize, but it may be easier than you think. I didn't change the o-rings when I got mine, but that's your call.

They put gas in them before shipping to show you that they seal properly.
 
Home late from work, but at least got them opened up today....How do I go about taking apart the posts and cleaning valves? Do you guys just use a standard wrench?

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I think it's a 7/8ths wrench. They just screw off (pardon the pun), the gas side will have a very short tube on it maybe an inch or so and the liquid side will have a tube that runs all the way to the bottom. Some kegs have an indexed dip tube on the liquid side so that it goes to the bottom center of the keg.
 
Also you have the dreaded root beer keg. I would highly recommend throwing away ALL the old o rings or you will never be able to get the root beer smell out. I have found it's the hardest flavor of soda to get the smell and flavor removed.
 
Home late from work, but at least got them opened up today....How do I go about taking apart the posts and cleaning valves? Do you guys just use a standard wrench?

7 of my 8 ball lock kegs use an 11/16" deep socket for the posts, the one outlier uses a 7/8" deep socket. I've never tried using a wrench but I s'pose that could work, too, but for sure the deep sockets are the easiest way.

Just unscrew the posts - and be careful not to lose the poppets inside 'em! With the posts off you'll find the dip tubes, and when you pull the tubes you'll find their O-rings.

I always replace all the O-rings on a new-to-me keg because I'm OC about sanitation, and I definitely recommend replacing them for anything that might have held Root Beer!

And when you reassemble, be sure to put the long dip tube back on the OUT port!

Cheers!
 
I use the "ratchet wrenches", that have a ratcheting mechanism built into the wrench. The posts just zip off.

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So I was reading through all the advice and threads out there about kegging until I found those extremely helpful youtube videos! Holy Crap, a wealth of information!

So....

1) The dreaded rootbeer keg has been re-rubbered and oxycleaned and rinsed
2) The other keg has all parts (including old o-rings) soaking in cleaner/sanitizer solution from my LHBS. I am going to try to salvage one set of O-rings so I have a spare.

Now, for the odd ball piece on all of this. Yesterday after getting the kegs torn apart, turned them upside down with lids off to dry. You guessed it one keg is taller than the other by approximately one inch. One is also approximately 1/4" wider in diameter. This is extremely important to me since I'm converting a danby 4.4 with limited space. I ordered ball locks, but am afraid I may've gotten a converted pin lock.

DOES ANYONE KNOW IF MY NOT YET PURCHASED DANBY (DAR440BL) WILL BE ABLE TO SQUEEZE THE TWO IN THERE? 8 1/4" and 8 1/2" in diameter!
 
I measured the very bottoms...might have to measure higher up as the plastic molded bases may be differnt. Why does this stuff make me so panicky?
 
I have subscribed to this thread so that I can go along for the ride and learn with you. I have three kegs from Keg Connection sitting in my living room. So far I haven't gotten the courage to start the process. This weekend will be my attempt to clean, sanitize, replace o rings, etc. I have a French strong ale in secondary that is ready to keg, but I am afraid to take the steps.
 
Well, getting the poppets out was fun:cross: I had to use a screw driver and a small hammer. Those things were locked in there tight! I'm assuming that's what a lot of soda/syrup will do. It didn't take long to get comfortable with the kegs and it really is pretty simple once you get down to it.

I will be getting my fridge soon, but have run into a problem. I want to take my beer line quick disconnects off so I can run the PVC tubing through copper pipe when I install the tower. Will take pictures tonight, but want to make sure I'm not screwing something up by removing them from the hose. I also noted that one of my posts on the gas in side has a small flat dent on it. Hopefully this won't screw anything up...:ban:
 
I will be posting picture of my danby125ss conversion soon. I don't like all the blind measuring I had to do, but I got it all squared away and it looks NIIIICE!

I have my first keg ready to hook up. It's naturally primed. I understand I'm supposed to chill it and then back off the pressure before hooking to the gas. Am I supposed to completely relieve it? I don't want to break the seal (no, not that seal, the keg seal!):ban:
 
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