Munich Helles Dead Guy Clone (Extract & AG- see note)

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I'd get the light colored munich malt and caramunich.

I think the grains really give it the flavor that Dead Guy has. It's not a "flat" tasting beer, it's malty and rich tasting. Even with light LME and the light colored specialty grains, the beer will probably be darker than the original. LME just tends to be darker. So, I'd use the lighter colored grains.
 
I've done this recipe twice now with Safale US-05 and it's turned out great. One of my best to date, in fact. Thanks Yooper!
 
Going to have to give this a try, I'm a big fan of Rogue Beer, and from all the positive feedback this sounds like a good one.

My question though, is everybody using 8lbs of XLDME? or 4lbs LME and 4lbs LDME? Does it make much of a difference in the final taste?

Just wondering (BTW this will be my second brew ever)
 
Ok, it's been a year since I joined the forum and I have yet to make a Yooperbrew recipe. In 2 weeks I plan to brew an AG 10g batch of this. I'd like to use US-05 and from what I've read this yeast works well with the recipe, yes?

Is the mash temp. really supposed to be 158F?
 
Ok, it's been a year since I joined the forum and I have yet to make a Yooperbrew recipe. In 2 weeks I plan to brew an AG 10g batch of this. I'd like to use US-05 and from what I've read this yeast works well with the recipe, yes?

Is the mash temp. really supposed to be 158F?

I've used us-o5, harvest pacman, 1338 Euro Ale Yeast, and just last week saflager...

Us-05 works great.
 
I really don't know, to be honest. I haven't delved at all into water chemistry- and I can't tell you what is in my tap water except that it's alkaline and high in carbonates, and I use 5.2 stabilizer.

The beer is malty, though, so I'd suggest a water profile similar to what you would use for a German Maibock.
 
I brewed a PM batch of this on Friday (2/6). Very smooth session, hit my temps right on (mashed at 152F), got the right OG (1.071). It's bubbling away in the basement as we speak (used ~15g of US-05). I used Beersmith to convert Yooper's AG to PM. I'm happy to share if anyone's interested. (One change: I couldn't find dark munich, so I used regular munich.)

Stay tuned, I'll update in a few weeks with the results.

Thanks to Yooper for what looks like a great recipe!
 
categorie wise: Is this an american pale ale? american amber ale? or just plain american ale?

Well, Rogue calls it a "maibock style ale". Of course, there is no such thing. So, it's a malty american ale, fermented cool (like 60 degrees) to get some lager characteristics. I'd say it's closest to an American amber if I had to choose a style and enter it in a contest.
 
Not too concerned about what style it is, I'm just going to make it my First 10 gallon batch!

Followed the recipe Yooper posted but bumped the MO by 3lbs to hit OG in my system. Using the US-05 for 5 gallons and WL 001 Califonia Ale for the other. Do a side by side comparison when all is said and done.

Looking forward to a tastey brew in a couple of months! Also looking forward to REALLY using the capacity of that new 60Qt kettle!
 
Brewed a 10g batch of this today. Used 21 lbs. of Maris Otter for the base malt & had to sub the bittering hops. I used Saaz Sladek & Northern Brewer instead of Perle for bittering. I did have enough Perle for the other additions.

OG came out perfect at 1.066. I used a 1g starter of Pacman Yeast since the LHBS had it.
 
Ten gallons brewed Monday. Hopefully my Star San scrubbed arm removing the screen from inside of spigot didn't ruin the brew.

Pitched US-05 in one and WLP001 in the other. Last nite they were having a serious party in the fermenters. Looking forward to trying this in a couple of months!
 
I've had some interest, so here's my partial mash version:



BeerSmith Recipe Printout - BeerSmith Brewing Software, Recipes, Blog, Wiki and Discussion Forum
Recipe: Dead Guy Clone (PM)
Style: American Amber Ale
TYPE: Partial Mash

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 3.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.071 SG
Estimated Color: 12.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 27.3 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 47.62 %
2.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 19.05 %
1.00 lb Caramunich Malt (56.0 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
1.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4.76 %
1.00 oz Pearle [7.70 %] (60 min) Hops 11.7 IBU
0.25 oz Pearle [7.70 %] (30 min) Hops 2.2 IBU
0.25 oz Saaz [4.00 %] (5 min) Hops 0.3 IBU
0.25 oz Pearle [7.70 %] (5 min) Hops 0.6 IBU
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1.10 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 min) Misc
2 Pkgs Safale American Ale (DCL Yeast #S-05) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Partial Mash (4lb)
Total Grain Weight: 3.50 lb
----------------------------
Partial Mash (4lb)
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 4.38 qt of water at 165.9 F 152.0 F


Notes:
------
Mash: added 4.5 qts of 166F water, mash temp was 153F dropping to 152F near the end (nearly perfect!). Preheated tun with boiling water. Did 2 sparges (~0.75gal) then one that was ~0.4gal. Added the 5lb of XLDME just before flameout. Added 3 gal of cold tap water to fermenter before adding ~2.5 gal of wort, reduced foaming. Used ~1.3 yeast packages (~15g?). Went from 1.071 to 1.017 in 8 days at 67F.

Adapted from Yooper's AG Dead Guy clone:
OG=1.069
FG=1.014
SRM=13.2
IBU=28.2
BG=1.059

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Just looking for some input. I have had this is primary for 1 week and it's about time to secondary. However, It would be easier on me if i could just let it sit in primary for 3 weeks like i do most of my other brews. I'm just curious if there would be any specific drawbacks for doing the same with this?
 
Just looking for some input. I have had this is primary for 1 week and it's about time to secondary. However, It would be easier on me if i could just let it sit in primary for 3 weeks like i do most of my other brews. I'm just curious if there would be any specific drawbacks for doing the same with this?

This is the recipe where I first (accidently) left my beer in Primary for a month....and it was so freking fantastic, that it sold me on the long primary, no secondary concept...

So yeah. you can do it!
 
Maibock / Helles Bock;

Maibock / Helles Bock - BeerAdvocate

It is malty like a good old dopplebock... I had Aventenis the other day... they have a very similar tasting profile... except my DGA is a bit fruity.

I definitely noticed the fruit in DGA. The smell reminds me of these flavored honey straws I'd get as a kid. I'm wondering if this clone duplicates this part well, because it's definitely my favorite character in this beer.
 
Uh oh...the 10g Dead Guy Clone I made is at 1.026 after 3.5 weeks. I mashed at 158F per recipe guidelines. I had it in a 64F water bath for 3 weeks & witnessed vigorous fermentation not long after I pitched the Pacman yeast.

When I measured the gravity at 1.026 after 3 weeks, I stirred up the yeast in both carboys & put them in the house at 74F room temp. They have been at 74F for 5 days now & today I measured gravity again & it's still at 1.026.

However, I see a tiny bit of airlock activity, but these are in better bottles & I can't tell if that's from minor temp. swings in the house or not.

What do I do? How long do I wait before accepting that fermentation is complete & this will be a very malty sweet beer?

I need these carboys soon for dry hopping the LWPA batch. This is messing with my brew schedule.
 
I have the same problem with this recipe when I brew it last year....The bottom line is that I let it sit in the primary for 5 weeks without touching it. My FG is at 1.018.
Just be patient... I consider this beer to be big... after 1 12oz, I can really feel it.
 
Uh oh...the 10g Dead Guy Clone I made is at 1.026 after 3.5 weeks. I mashed at 158F per recipe guidelines. I had it in a 64F water bath for 3 weeks & witnessed vigorous fermentation not long after I pitched the Pacman yeast.

When I measured the gravity at 1.026 after 3 weeks, I stirred up the yeast in both carboys & put them in the house at 74F room temp. They have been at 74F for 5 days now & today I measured gravity again & it's still at 1.026.

However, I see a tiny bit of airlock activity, but these are in better bottles & I can't tell if that's from minor temp. swings in the house or not.

What do I do? How long do I wait before accepting that fermentation is complete & this will be a very malty sweet beer?

I need these carboys soon for dry hopping the LWPA batch. This is messing with my brew schedule.

With pacman yeast, I've had it finish as low as 1.012 or so even with a higher mash temp and cool fermentation temperatures. Do you want to try adding some dry nottingham and see if it'll give you about 8 more points of attenuation? This beer really is good at 1.016-1.018 or so.
 
Both batches (US05 and WLP001) are right around 1.018~1.019 after almost 4 weeks in primary. I'll be using the yeastcakes after I rack to kegs for an Hop Tea Amber. Basic amber from "Brewing Classic Styles" with a nice dry hop in secondary.

Also looking to try yeast washing with half of the yeastcake from each batch. Should be a fun weekend!
 
With pacman yeast, I've had it finish as low as 1.012 or so even with a higher mash temp and cool fermentation temperatures. Do you want to try adding some dry nottingham and see if it'll give you about 8 more points of attenuation? This beer really is good at 1.016-1.018 or so.

Turns out my Thermometer has been reading about 3-4F too low past couple batches. I think this could be why mine finished at 1.026. I had a Munich Dunkel also finished high on me recently. Pretty sure the thermometer was the issue.
 
In the recipe in the first post you mention 4 lbs DME and 4 lbs LME. You mention you substituted all with DME. Did you use 8 lbs DME or did you use less to compensate for the LME -> DME substitution?

I've done it a couple of times with the LME and DME, and I have substituted all DME once or twice. When I sub with DME, I adjust the amount to give me the same OG, so I would have used 7 pounds of DME.
 
Yooper, Thanks for a great recipe!
The US05 batch comes really close to Dead Guy. Both it and the WLP001 finished around 1.018, so there is a nice malty sweetness to them. However, there is a bit of banana, clove taste to the WLP001. It's not a bad thing. Similar to a weizenbock taste and I love weizenbock. I'm wondering if it's common to the yeast or if I have somehting hanging around in my fermenter.

No matter what, it's a recipe I'll be doing again. I'm also starting to look into my water profile and want to fit the water to the beer a bit better. My water now is best for darker beers. Want to get a little more crispness in my lighter beers.
 
I've done it a couple of times with the LME and DME, and I have substituted all DME once or twice. When I sub with DME, I adjust the amount to give me the same OG, so I would have used 7 pounds of DME.

Sorry if I'm being too picky, but 7.0 pounds or 7.2 pounds like Revvy suggested?
 
Great recipe Yooper! Dead Guy is one of my favorite beers, and I've made 5 batches (PM) of this clone in the last 6 months...it really is spot on to the original - smell, color and everything. Prost!
 
ifishsum,
Can you share your PM recipe? I am working on doing this as a parital mash in a couple of weeks. I would be interested in what you did, especialy since it came out good.
Thanks,
 
Crazy thing, I brewed this last weekend, and after a week of primary it's still bubbling about every 3 seconds. I used the authentic Pacman yeast and it started around 1.063 and I'm already down to 1.009 :eek:. I hope it soon ends because I fear it will get too low for the style & clone. I mashed steady at 151 and all temps were dead on. Not sure why this would attenuate so well, all of the reading suggested that Pacman would only get down to 1.012 or so at the most. Anyone else experience this?
 
Crazy thing, I brewed this last weekend, and after a week of primary it's still bubbling about every 3 seconds. I used the authentic Pacman yeast and it started around 1.063 and I'm already down to 1.009 :eek:. I hope it soon ends because I fear it will get too low for the style & clone. I mashed steady at 151 and all temps were dead on. Not sure why this would attenuate so well, all of the reading suggested that Pacman would only get down to 1.012 or so at the most. Anyone else experience this?

Yes, I think one of my first posts mentioned mashing this at 156, because it attenuated really well. At 151, I would think that it would ferment pretty dry. I don't mash many beers under 153, but this one should be a malty beer so I'd mash it higher.
 
ifishsum,
Can you share your PM recipe? I am working on doing this as a parital mash in a couple of weeks. I would be interested in what you did, especialy since it came out good.
Thanks,

Thumper, all I did was add 2 lbs of base malt and reduce the extract - this is how I converted it for my setup (3 gallon boil pot, 2 gallon round cooler MLT, large grain bag):

2 lbs British Pale malt (Maris Otter)
1 lb Munich malt
1 lb CaraMunich
8 oz Crystal 40L
7 lbs fresh light LME

Mash grains in 6 quarts of water, shooting for mash temp 150-152*F for 1 hour
Sparge grain bag in boil pot with 6.75 quarts of water @170 for 5-10 minutes, agitate and drain bag
Pour mash runnings from cooler into boil pot w/sparge runnings
Start boil

Hops schedule:
1.0 oz Perle 8.2% (leaf) @60 min
0.5 oz Perle 8.2% (leaf) @30 min
0.25 oz Perle 8.2% (leaf) @5 min
0.5 oz Saaz 2.7% (leaf) @5 min

I wait to add all of the LME until 10 minutes left in the boil, before the last hops additions (by this time enough liquid has boiled off that there is room in the pot for the 7 lbs of LME). I remove from the burner, stir in the extract well and then restart the boil, usually adding Irish Moss and yeast nutrient. Once it's boiling again I restart the timer and add the last hops. Cool, top off to 5.5 gallons and pitch yeast (pacman starter or US-05 dry yeast).

Depending on your mini-mash efficiency, you may adjust the extract a little - I'm getting 65-70% to hit OG of 1.066-1.067 and it usually finishes at 1.016-1.017.

Good luck! I hope Yooper doesn't mind me posting my slight PM variation
 
Thank you! ifishsum. I will try to find my notes. My computer crashed at home, but I know I wrote something down about it.
 
I'm really bummed I missed the mash temp, not sure how I overlooked that. It finished at pretty much 1.009 and is now ready for keg. One problem, it's now just a plain ale with no hop flavor or aroma (as it should) and very dry. Only bonus is high alcohol volume. Man, Wyeast was not joking when they list "HIGH" for attenuation on Pacman. I guess I'll just have to harvest that yeast and give it another shot.

So I should really shoot to mash at 156 at least to get those unfermentables in there and buffer this attenuative yeast?
 
I was checking the info at Rogue and they claim that the commercial version has 40 IBUs but I am get about 28 plugging this recipe into Beersmith.

Is this some brew myth magic at Rogue or what is going on? Your recipe seems to be pretty spot on from this post so what is the real story Yooper?
 
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