Will a STC 1000 work on any fridge?

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will_rouse

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I'm going and picking up a 7 cubic foot chest freezer tomorrow morning for a new ferm chamber but before I spend the cash are there any freezers the STC 1000 aren't compatible with?
 
Yes...most people wire the STC-1000 to an electrical outlet housed in a box, then plug the fridge into the outlet. So you're not actually tapping into or overriding the fridges wiring/thermostat.
 
TyTanium said:
Yes...most people wire the STC-1000 to an electrical outlet housed in a box, then plug the fridge into the outlet. So you're not actually tapping into or overriding the fridges wiring/thermostat.

Okay I looked at the schematics and I just wanted to make sure no one had any particular problems with any fridges I think I'm just being a little to over cautious.
 
Okay I looked at the schematics and I just wanted to make sure no one had any particular problems with any fridges I think I'm just being a little to over cautious.

Essentially you're creating an outlet, like the one on the wall you used to plug the fridge into, except this one turns the power on and off based on temps. You crank the fridge thermostat to coldest setting and let the STC cut the power to the fridge/turn it on as needed. The fridge itself doesn't matter. You just plug it into the STC controlled outlet.
 
Are they all 220V or can you buy them 110V?

Both are available. Check the listing carefully. There are several threads here that link to 110v models, which is what you obviously want for a regular fridge in the US
 
There may be some applications the STC 1000 is not acceptable for. I believe it is rated to carry 5 or 10 Amps. Many fridges/freezers draw more current than this when the compressor starts up. Once they are running, compressors draw less current, so it may not be an issue. I've seen plenty of fridges controlled by an STC 1000, so obviously it can be done. The question is, is it safe or will it lead to equipment failure? I really don't know. When I wired up from fridge to use it for fermenting and lagering I used a Love controller that was rated to handle the current of the fridge at compressor start-up. Probably not necessary, but at least I feel like I did it "right".
 
There may be some applications the STC 1000 is not acceptable for. I believe it is rated to carry 5 or 10 Amps. Many fridges/freezers draw more current than this when the compressor starts up. Once they are running, compressors draw less current, so it may not be an issue. I've seen plenty of fridges controlled by an STC 1000, so obviously it can be done. The question is, is it safe or will it lead to equipment failure? I really don't know. When I wired up from fridge to use it for fermenting and lagering I used a Love controller that was rated to handle the current of the fridge at compressor start-up. Probably not necessary, but at least I feel like I did it "right".

It's 10A on the 120v models.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862G3TQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I think most fridges are under that for start-up, but I've been wrong once or twice... :drunk:
 
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It's 10A on the 120v models.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862G3TQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I think most fridges are under that for start-up, but I've been wrong once or twice... :drunk:

I agree, most fridges have a running rating less than 10A. But many have a start-up draw of more than 10A. It's for a very short time, so it probably doesn't even matter. Basically, I just over-engineered my fridge. The Love controller I have is rated for 16A.
 
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FredTheNuke said:
Wire it through a $5.00 30 amp relay. That way you don't have to worry about the STC relay sizing.

I was planing on putting some sort of a relay but I'm glad you said something because I wouldn't have put one that size. Thanks for the great advice guys. I am so excited to be able to start lagering!
 
Why not just buy an analog temp controller? Just plug it into the wall and plug the freezer into it. Set the temp and you're done. Costs like $40-$50.
 
I can think of a whole host of reasons:

No anti-short-cycle-delay mode, uses a non-replaceable bulb and thin copper tubing instead of a more flexible replaceable wired probe, is not as accurate, has limited differential adjustment, and is only a single-stage controller. And, at $40-50, is at least as expensive if not more so than a digital solution...

Cheers!
 
Yeah the STC 1000 plus parts and external thermometer will only run me 30 bucks( I've got a lot sitting around the house already)
 
Even a MARS 90341 would work fine. Plenty of capacity for the starting current (LRA is 82.8 amps).

DPDT RELAY, 3/4 HP, COIL VOLTAGE: 120, SWITCHING VOLTAGE: 125/250, HERTZ: 50/60, AMPS: 15, RESISTIVE AMPS: 277, FLA/LRA: 13.8/82.8 @ 125V, 6.9/41.4 @ 250V, TERMINALS: 10, DIMENSIONS: 2-1/2"H X 2"W X 2"D, WEIGHT: 5.5oZ, MADE IN THE USA, IN MANUFACTURER BOX
 
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