Cover your wort or upgrade?

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chris24300

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Do you cover your wort when boiling/keeping a boil? I don't know if my stove struggles or what but doesn't seem to keep a boil if it's open..

I saw a nice Banjo propane cooker at LHBS for $100. Does anyone use these? do you brew outside? It costs a little but I'll also be able to get a 42qt pot and I shouldn't need anything more than that for a while.. worth it?
 
$100 bucks! Wow that's steep. Amazon has Bayou Classic SQ-14 model for somewhere between $40-$50. SP-10 is also a popular model & may be a bit cheaper too.

Definitely upgrade, the lid needs to be off to boil away any DMS.
 
FYI - You do NOT want to cover your wort while it's boiling.

You should be able to pick up an outdoor turkey fryer setup for under $60 if you look around.

The reason you do not want to cover your kettle is that the steam coming out of the kettle contains DMS precursors, which will fall back into your wort if you cover it. These precursors will cause DMS flavor issues later, which you generally do not want.

I usually try and place the kettle over 2 burners if I am working in the kitchen. But the turkey fryer system is quite capable of maintaining a HARD boil.
 
Should have stated a partial cover, but looks like upgrading it is. Thanks for those burners the sq-14 looks like the winner. I can't get over two burners on my stove, stupid design.

Question on the brew kettle; the LHBS has a 42 qt but without a spicket for ~$80, is it worth it to spend a little extra for a valve? like this one
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I always wonder how people cool down those pots with the valves on them. You have to lift them anyway to put them in a bath. I would imagine it would get submerged in ice water and then require sanitizing before transfer. I boiled 5 gallons the other day and just dumped it into my bucket from about 2 feet away. The material gushed all over the bucket and created a nice foamy lather. Didn't need to aerate it afterward. Just a thought.
 
badbrew said:
I always wonder how people cool down those pots with the valves on them. You have to lift them anyway to put them in a bath. I would imagine it would get submerged in ice water and then require sanitizing before transfer. I boiled 5 gallons the other day and just dumped it into my bucket from about 2 feet away. The material gushed all over the bucket and created a nice foamy lather. Didn't need to aerate it afterward. Just a thought.

Most setups with a valve use a chiller instead of an ice bath. Personally i use the no chill method. I think a valve is extremely important for safety. Moving 5+ gallons of near boiling liquid seems like it would only be a matter of time before an accident happens.

Just my $.02 though.
 
Most setups with a valve use a chiller instead of an ice bath. Personally i use the no chill method. I think a valve is extremely important for safety. Moving 5+ gallons of near boiling liquid seems like it would only be a matter of time before an accident happens.

Just my $.02 though.

Do you mean that you just pour the contents into one of those water storage jugs and wait?
 
badbrew said:
Do you mean that you just pour the contents into one of those water storage jugs and wait?

I let the wort cool to 180 ish, open the valve and let it pour into my ale pail (through silicone tubing not plastic) and seal it. The next morning i make sure the temp is low enough, aerate and pitch.
 
Check out Lowes/Home Depot this time of year. I saw a turkey fryer with a 42 quart aluminum pot on clearance for $39.99. I dont even need it and I almost scooped it up at that price. I think the brand was Brinkman?

If you want a valve it should be easy enough to drill a hole and install a weldless bulkhead.
 
I still siphon my wort from the BK. I have a spigot on a couple of them, but no false bottom/dip tube installed yet. One of those things that never seems to get done.
 
Check out Lowes/Home Depot this time of year. I saw a turkey fryer with a 42 quart aluminum pot on clearance for $39.99. I dont even need it and I almost scooped it up at that price. I think the brand was Brinkman?

If you want a valve it should be easy enough to drill a hole and install a weldless bulkhead.

I used that the other day to brew on my stove. It worked good except was probably too tall for this. It isn't for sale anymore though. And it is 30 quarts btw (though really about 28).

edit: I guess it's still on sale online.
 
Hmm we may be thinking of a different item, or maybe my store has different items in stock. I am pretty certain it was 42 quarts (because I was thinking I could maybe use it as an HLT for 10 gallon batches), and it was on clearance at HD for 39.99 with a yellow tag - which means they arent going to raise the price, it will be there or lower until they run out of stock.

I may be wrong. But either way, it is much cheaper than OP's LHBS.
 
Yup I'm going to HD after work to snatch one a two even if they're 30 qts. comes with burner too, can't beat that price.
 
FYI - You do NOT want to cover your wort while it's boiling.

You should be able to pick up an outdoor turkey fryer setup for under $60 if you look around.

The reason you do not want to cover your kettle is that the steam coming out of the kettle contains DMS precursors, which will fall back into your wort if you cover it. These precursors will cause DMS flavor issues later, which you generally do not want.

Could you explain this a little? This is the first I've heard of this and I have covered most of my boils so far. What kind of flavors are you talking about and when might they show up in the brew?
 
Could you explain this a little? This is the first I've heard of this and I have covered most of my boils so far. What kind of flavors are you talking about and when might they show up in the brew?

Extract for John Palmer's How To Brew:
Dimethyl Sulfides (DMS)/ Cooked Vegetable Flavors
Like diacetyl in ales, DMS is common in many light lagers and is considered to be part of the character. DMS is produced in the wort during the boil by the reduction of another compound, S-methyl-methionine (SMM), which is itself produced during malting. When a malt is roasted or toasted, the SMM is reduced beforehand and does not manifest as DMS in the wort, which explains why it is more prevalent in pale lagers. In other styles, DMS is a common off-flavor, and can be caused by poor brewing practices or bacterial infections.

DMS is continuously produced in the wort while it is hot and is usually removed by vaporization during the boil. If the wort is cooled slowly these compounds will not be removed from the wort and will dissolve back in. Thus it is important to not completely cover the brewpot during the boil or allow condensate to drip back into the pot from the lid. The wort should also be cooled quickly after the boil, either by immersing in an ice bath or using a wort chiller.

When caused by bacterial infection, DMS has a more rancid character, more liked cooked cabbage than corn. It is usually the result of poor sanitation. Repitching the yeast from an infected batch of beer will perpetuate the problem.

:mug:
 
Could you explain this a little? This is the first I've heard of this and I have covered most of my boils so far. What kind of flavors are you talking about and when might they show up in the brew?

Veggie, corny flavors (some claim other nasty notes of flavors) that dominate the finished taste. Not something worth dumping, but without those flavors the beer is awesome in comparison.
 
I always wonder how people cool down those pots with the valves on them. You have to lift them anyway to put them in a bath. I would imagine it would get submerged in ice water and then require sanitizing before transfer. I boiled 5 gallons the other day and just dumped it into my bucket from about 2 feet away. The material gushed all over the bucket and created a nice foamy lather. Didn't need to aerate it afterward. Just a thought.

I always have Starsan in a spray bottle. All you have to do it squirt it into the nozzle and around the fittings. When I did small 5 gallon batches I used a wash tub combined with an immersion chiller, then sat it back up on a surface to drain with a hose into the carboy. Lifting was easier than dumping. That got messy at times. It will be an evolution of methods as we advance our brewing techniques. (A million ways to skin a cat)
 
I let the wort cool to 180 ish, open the valve and let it pour into my ale pail (through silicone tubing not plastic) and seal it. The next morning i make sure the temp is low enough, aerate and pitch.

I may try this next time. Just a little worried how it might hurt my pail's life. Also worried about the 140 F bacteria issues. Probably worth a try. Heck I can test it on a $3 lowes bucket.
 
badbrew said:
I may try this next time. Just a little worried how it might hurt my pail's life. Also worried about the 140 F bacteria issues. Probably worth a try. Heck I can test it on a $3 lowes bucket.

I'm not familiar with the 140 F bacteria issues, i have done this for a year now and havent died or had an infection. I star san the bucket before i transfer if that makes a difference. The ale pail will be fine, i dont know that i would pick it up and move it while its that warm because it does get softer than normal with heat but it wont melt. There is tons of info floating around here about PET buckets and no chill being safe so make sure the Lowes bucket is made of the right material first.

Cheers,
 
I swear it was $59.99 a couple of days ago at my local hd. You may have to order online and pick it up to get the deal.

30 qt. Turkey Fryer-815-4001-S at The Home Depot

I have 2 of them. Here's a false bottom I made for mine:

Underside.jpg


And:

Installed.jpg


Made from a 12" pizza cooling tray and 30x30 SS mesh with SS hardware, fits perfect in the 12" diameter of the turkey fryer.
 
Extract for John Palmer's How To Brew:
Dimethyl Sulfides (DMS)/ Cooked Vegetable Flavors
Like diacetyl in ales, DMS is common in many light lagers and is considered to be part of the character. DMS is produced in the wort during the boil by the reduction of another compound, S-methyl-methionine (SMM), which is itself produced during malting. When a malt is roasted or toasted, the SMM is reduced beforehand and does not manifest as DMS in the wort, which explains why it is more prevalent in pale lagers. In other styles, DMS is a common off-flavor, and can be caused by poor brewing practices or bacterial infections.

DMS is continuously produced in the wort while it is hot and is usually removed by vaporization during the boil. If the wort is cooled slowly these compounds will not be removed from the wort and will dissolve back in. Thus it is important to not completely cover the brewpot during the boil or allow condensate to drip back into the pot from the lid. The wort should also be cooled quickly after the boil, either by immersing in an ice bath or using a wort chiller.

When caused by bacterial infection, DMS has a more rancid character, more liked cooked cabbage than corn. It is usually the result of poor sanitation. Repitching the yeast from an infected batch of beer will perpetuate the problem.

:mug:

I do hope the "covered boilers" and "no chillers" read this. If you can taste any corn or vegetable flavors/aromas, this will eliminate it!

:mug:
 
Braufguss said:
I do hope the "covered boilers" and "no chillers" read this. If you can taste any corn or vegetable flavors/aromas, this will eliminate it!

:mug:

I've never had any DMS issues with the no chill method, even with light lagers, but i boil sans cover. That doesnt mean it couldnt/doesnt happen to others. With out getting this thread farther off topic, i suggest looking into all the other threads that cover no chill brewing in detail if you are interested in trying it.
 
I have 2 of them. Here's a false bottom I made for mine:

Underside.jpg


And:

Installed.jpg


Made from a 12" pizza cooling tray and 30x30 SS mesh with SS hardware, fits perfect in the 12" diameter of the turkey fryer.

Can't see pics.

It isn't an online only deal at HD, I went last night and my local hd had 16 stock, picked up 2. Wrapping one for christmas present to myself and I'll be frying a turkey tonight and brewing sat hopefully. I assume the burner would be able to hold a 42 qt no problem?

The wait is killing me.. I saw a vanilla bourbon oat stout the last time I was in LHBS, definitely coming up next.

Question on my current fermenting brew (pale ale); once i rack to my corny keg, should I let it sit a room temp to carb and clear up THEN go into kegerator? or rack then move to kegerator?

I'm redoing my first brew (lager) and the liquid yeast I picked up says that it should be at 70 degrees, that seems high as I thought most lager yeasts ferment best at low 30s (from what I read).
 
FWIW - I partially cover (never fully) my pot to encourage rapid boiling and after it gets to a boil I uncover it more. I've never had a problem with corn flavor.
 
Ferment your lager in the primary in the low 50's for about the first 10 days. Then rasie the temp to 60 for 24-48 hrs. Transfer to secondary and start dropping your temp till you hit the 30's for 6 to 8 plus weeks. That's the basic lager way.
 
Ferment your lager in the primary in the low 50's for about the first 10 days. Then rasie the temp to 60 for 24-48 hrs. Transfer to secondary and start dropping your temp till you hit the 30's for 6 to 8 plus weeks. That's the basic lager way.

OK thanks, in my case I'm using a primary fermenting pail and my corny keg, no secondary. So would you let it sit in the primary for a longer time to fully complete fermenting then transfer and lower temps or transfer into corny and let sit then lower temps.
 
I think the idea would be to transfer when the wort is 80 percent fermented. But do not forget to bring it up to 60 for 24 to 48 hours first, that's important. Anyone can correct me if I am wrong. I have 6 batches of lager rolling as we speak using this method.
 
I think you will have to purge the corny every other day if your going right to the corny as you said.

That makes sense, it shouldn't expose my brew to too much i don't think? Removing the pail lid to test gravity is much higher risk of infection.
 

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