American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Primary two weeks, throw loose hops in primary at let sit for 7-10 days. If you can, cold crash for a day or two to help the hops floating around sink to the bottom. When you rack the beer to your bottling bucket or keg fasten a hop bag or 1 gallon paint strainer bag with a rubberband or zip tie around the end of the racking cane. This will help reduce the amount of hops/ trub from ending up in your final product.
 
Primary two weeks, throw loose hops in primary at let sit for 7-10 days. If you can, cold crash for a day or two to help the hops floating around sink to the bottom. When you rack the beer to your bottling bucket or keg fasten a hop bag or 1 gallon paint strainer bag with a rubberband or zip tie around the end of the racking cane. This will help reduce the amount of hops/ trub from ending up in your final product.

This is exactly what I do.
 
awesome! thanks everyone. Putting in another container for a week seemed pointless and risked introducing more brain eating amoebas.
 
shawnleary said:
awesome! thanks everyone. Putting in another container for a week seemed pointless and risked introducing more brain eating amoebas.

It's not pointless or necessary. For me it depends on how lazy I am or if I need the carboy to primary another beer. If you need to age something a bit most would agree to get it off the yeast cake after 3/4 weeks and into a secondary. Another thing to consider would be if you plan on washing the yeast to re-use it, not sure you want hops mixed in there.
 
Personally, I put them in a 1 gallon paint strained bag or muslin bag so I don't have to worry about excess hops floating around.
 
D_Nyholm said:
Personally, I put them in a 1 gallon paint strained bag or muslin bag so I don't have to worry about excess hops floating around.

That's fine if using a bucket but I don't recommend more than an ounce if you plan on getting them back out through the neck of a carboy.
 
Looking at the BJCP guidelines for an american IPA, and looking at the stats of the DFH60, it seems like this could be tweaked a little bit to deliver a more similar clone. I haven't brewed this particular recipe before, but I just thought I'd throw out some ideas. I'm sure this recipe is fantastic as MANY people have confirmed, but in my situation, I don't have the capacity to brew a 1.070 brew, and my friend is funding this one if I can get it anywhere close :D

First of all, DFH claims their 60 minute is 10-11SRM. Looking at the side by sides here, that doesn't exactly seem the case as the two-row/amber malt combo shouldn't produce anything higher than 5, and it seems to be pretty close to the DFG60... so screw adjusting that too much. You could always use crystal 60, but from the feedback of users that tried it, it seems they found the product to be too sweet.

Some of you have been claiming ABV's of upwards of 7-8%. Although none of us can turn down a great high ABV IPA with beautiful aroma... The 60 minute comes in at a 6.0ABV. I'm thinking to suit the clone better, maybe a 1.062-1.016 drop from OG to FG could hit nearly spot on 6%, while leaving the FG high enough to have that slightly malty finish.

Lastly, DFH claims their 60 minute has 60 IBU's. To lower the IBU count on this one, I figured it would be best just to drop the warrior to 0.5oz from 0.75oz and keeping everything the same. From the AA that are default for BS, this brings the IBU count down to 59.1.

this is the recipe I came up with. I figured I would leave the types of hops the same as yooper did as so many people enjoyed the combo, I just adjusted the amounts and changed the malts. Again, I'm making these adjustments because I can't mash much more than 12lbs of grain, and my friend wants a 60 minute IPA clone because its IMPOSSIBLE to get up here in Canada. Let me know what you think:

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP001
Yeast Starter: yes, 1.5L
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.062
Final Gravity: 1.016
IBU: 59.1
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 6.6 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees


6lbs american 2-row
6lbs marris otter
8oz caraAmber

0.5oz warrior @ 60 *continuous
0.5 oz amarillo @ 35 *continuous
0.5 oz simcoe @ 30 *continuous
0.5 oz simcoe (dryhop)
1oz amarillo (dryhop)

Mash at 153F for one hour. dry hop for last week of fermentation (no need to transfer to secondary)
 
I wouldn't use crystal malt- I'd stick with amber malt if you can possibly get it. If not, victory or biscuit malt would be a better choice than the cara- malts. Cara-amber especially- it's a bit stronger/darker than crystal 60L.

I don't really like marris otter in most American style IPAs (with the exception possibly of Surly Furious, which uses Golden Promise but it's similar). I'd go with US or Canadian two-row for the base malt. If you want more malt backbone, you could try Munich malt (say a pound or two) with the US two-row.
 
I wouldn't use crystal malt- I'd stick with amber malt if you can possibly get it. If not, victory or biscuit malt would be a better choice than the cara- malts. Cara-amber especially- it's a bit stronger/darker than crystal 60L.

I don't really like marris otter in most American style IPAs (with the exception possibly of Surly Furious, which uses Golden Promise but it's similar). I'd go with US or Canadian two-row for the base malt. If you want more malt backbone, you could try Munich malt (say a pound or two) with the US two-row.

So you think 11.5lbs of US 2-row with 1lb of either munich 20L or biscuit would make for a better recipe? I'll need to mash at 1.2 quarts/lb to fit it all in my mash tun. Dangerous or possible?
 
So you think 11.5lbs of US 2-row with 1lb of either munich 20L or biscuit would make for a better recipe?

Not a pound of biscuit! More like 6-8 ounces, instead of the cara-amber in your recipe.

I like Munich (a pound or two is fine) instead of so much maris otter for the base malt.
 
Not a pound of biscuit! More like 6-8 ounces, instead of the cara-amber in your recipe.

I like Munich (a pound or two is fine) instead of so much maris otter for the base malt.

Haha alright, I've never tried messing around with a recipe (obvious enough!). So are you saying something more like 12lbs 2-row w/ 6 oz biscuit, 11.5lbs 2-row w/ 1lb of munich, or 11lbs 2-row w/ 1lb munich w/ 6oz biscuit.

sorry about the nagging, but I'm about to place an order and I'm hard pressed for space in my MLT!

Thanks so much!
 
Haha alright, I've never tried messing around with a recipe (obvious enough!). So are you saying something more like 12lbs 2-row w/ 6 oz biscuit, 11.5lbs 2-row w/ 1lb of munich, or 11lbs 2-row w/ 1lb munich w/ 6oz biscuit.

sorry about the nagging, but I'm about to place an order and I'm hard pressed for space in my MLT!

Thanks so much!

I like the plain ol' recipe the best, so maybe I'm biased. But if you are lacking room in the MLT and need to sub a "maltier" malt, the Munich would help out. I like the 6 ounces of amber malt a lot, but if you can't find amber malt you could sub victory or biscuit malt. I wouldn't sub a cara- type malt unless you really like crystal malt in IPAs. I think it makes it too sweet and covers up the great hops.

If you can only fit 11.5 pounds of grain in your MLT, I'd go with 10 pounds two-row, 1 pound Munich, and 6 ounces biscuit/victory/amber malt. Depending on your efficiency, you should end up with an OG of 1.056 or so. That's a bit low for an IPA. You could always keep a pound of DME on hand and add that at the end of the boil to make up for the lack of grain.
 
I like the plain ol' recipe the best, so maybe I'm biased. But if you are lacking room in the MLT and need to sub a "maltier" malt, the Munich would help out. I like the 6 ounces of amber malt a lot, but if you can't find amber malt you could sub victory or biscuit malt. I wouldn't sub a cara- type malt unless you really like crystal malt in IPAs. I think it makes it too sweet and covers up the great hops.

If you can only fit 11.5 pounds of grain in your MLT, I'd go with 10 pounds two-row, 1 pound Munich, and 6 ounces biscuit/victory/amber malt. Depending on your efficiency, you should end up with an OG of 1.056 or so. That's a bit low for an IPA. You could always keep a pound of DME on hand and add that at the end of the boil to make up for the lack of grain.

I could hit 12.5 if I mashed with 1.2 quarts/lb of grain. It's a little low, but it'll get me a few more points than if I mashed with 1.25 and used 12lbs. Oh Well, if I get a good efficiency I should end up with 1.06 at least. I'll have to cross my fingers!
 
When I made this, I forgot to add the amber malt and used 15 lbs of us 2-row, 0.25lbs of melanoiden, and 0.25lbs of acid malt (for mash pH adjustment). Found the little bag of amber on the counter about 30 minutes into the boil! Was the best malt character of any beer I have made yet. I guess my point is that even a simple grain bill can be excellent.
 
Quick question about the original recipe. Is the dry hopping in secondary?
Thanks.

Typically, the idea is to rack from primary into the seconday which is pre-loaded with hops. That way, you rack right onto the hops and they get a better initial dispersion.
 
I used to rack to a clearing vessel, and add the dryhops there. But for the last few years, I just add the dryhops to my fermenter for the last 5 days or so before packaging the beer.
 
I made the extract recipie.

My scale went nuts and I added about two and one half lbs of C40. I just went ahead with the recipie.

What should I expect as far as taste?
 
Sangre said:
I made the extract recipie.

My scale went nuts and I added about two and one half lbs of C40. I just went ahead with the recipie.

What should I expect as far as taste?

That's pretty extreme, I think we'd all like to hear what it tastes like then.
 
I know what you mean. I got a 6er last weekend and remember thinking the same thing. I'll be kegging this batch on Saturday, can't wait to see how it turned out. The sample was promising

I knew we weren't that crazy...I went on DFH's brewpub site and they are making the 60 with Palisades and Simcoe. Here it is:

"60 Minute IPA, 6% abv

Our flagship beer is continuously & intensely hopped. A session I.P.A. brewed with Palisade & Simcoe hops. A powerful East Coast I.P.A. with a lot of citrusy hop character. The session beer for hardcore beer enthusiasts!"

Still a great beer but I'm certainly happy we have Yooper's recipe to brew up.
 
KozHops said:
I knew we weren't that crazy...I went on DFH's brewpub site and they are making the 60 with Palisades and Simcoe. Here it is:

"60 Minute IPA, 6% abv

Our flagship beer is continuously & intensely hopped. A session I.P.A. brewed with Palisade & Simcoe hops. A powerful East Coast I.P.A. with a lot of citrusy hop character. The session beer for hardcore beer enthusiasts!"

Still a great beer but I'm certainly happy we have Yooper's recipe to brew up.

I thought it was mentioned that Sam's recipe in his book didn't mention Palisade's?
 
image-1466276203.jpg

My clone vs the real thing. Mine is lighter in color and clearer. The hop character is there but mine is softer (I think its the water). All in all very close and darn tasty.


The only other difference is that the clone is in my chest freezer with an Oktoberfest I'm lagering. The carbonation is different but I think it's because mine has been "lagered" for three weeks.

Check out my blog about this beer.
http://brosbeerhomebrew.blogspot.com/2012/08/dog-fish-head-60-minute-ipa-clone.html
 
I didn't see it in the thread... but I was wondering in anyone uses the 'American Pale Ale' base malt for the 2-row? My LHBS has both and wondered if it might be a good match. The description of it here says you can use it when you want a solid malt backbone. However... older I get, the less malty beers sit a little better :cross:
 
I am going to brew my second batch tomorrow. The first batch I used S-05 and was very happy with the results. This time I have a 2 liter pacman starter ready. Should I cold crash overnight and decant or just pitch entire amount.
 
Floydsview said:
I am going to brew my second batch tomorrow. The first batch I used S-05 and was very happy with the results. This time I have a 2 liter pacman starter ready. Should I cold crash overnight and decant or just pitch entire amount.

That's personal preference. If the starter is finished fermenting now I'd crash and decant. If its still active then pitch the whole thing
 
So I've brewed this and am enjoying some of the first brews out of the keg. It's tasty, but it's VERY, and I mean VERY grapefruity....I had some variances to the recipe, like using WLP 007 for yeast @65-66ish..So I know there are some fruity esters in there that were my fault for not leaving it at 63 for long enough...and using chinook in there in lieu of simcoe.

I'm wondering that if my preferences are more towards an earthy/piney IPA (part of my move to the chinook hops), what adjustments should I make? This was also not bitter enough, but I think that's partially because of how I added the hops, I think I may need a more structured process to have an idea of what I need to correct my process on this. I guess I'll be looking at changing up the hops schedule more and going with WLP 001 or with Pacman here as well.

That being said this is maybe the best beer I have made overall. I modified my water for it and I wonder if turning the knob a bit on the the sulfate/chloride ratio might do some good as well.
 
So I've brewed this and am enjoying some of the first brews out of the keg. It's tasty, but it's VERY, and I mean VERY grapefruity....I had some variances to the recipe, like using WLP 007 for yeast @65-66ish..So I know there are some fruity esters in there that were my fault for not leaving it at 63 for long enough...and using chinook in there in lieu of simcoe.

I'm wondering that if my preferences are more towards an earthy/piney IPA (part of my move to the chinook hops), what adjustments should I make? This was also not bitter enough, but I think that's partially because of how I added the hops, I think I may need a more structured process to have an idea of what I need to correct my process on this. I guess I'll be looking at changing up the hops schedule more and going with WLP 001 or with Pacman here as well.

That being said this is maybe the best beer I have made overall. I modified my water for it and I wonder if turning the knob a bit on the the sulfate/chloride ratio might do some good as well.

Chinook is pretty citrusy- maybe the combo is overwhelmingly grapefruit?

I'd go with all of the warrior (or magnum or whatever you have for bittering) at the 60 minute mark, since you want more bittering, and use the flavor/aroma additions at 15/10/5/0 instead of continuous. That might make it easier for you, and still give you the feel of continous hopping.

If you want less grapefruit, instead of a clone of DFH, how about using magnum or warrior for bittering, and then using centennial and simcoe for the flavor and aroma? Or willamette with chinook?
 
Thanks for the reply Yooper. I was just reading while waiting for responses and saw that Chinook has some grapefruit qualities to it.... One of the reasons I thought to include it was that I had just had a fantastic chinook ipa, which did not seem citrusy in the least, very earthy and was just great, not that grapefruit is a bad taste I was just looking for something a little different.

I read that possible chinook can behave differently as a bittering/flavoring hop addition vs dry hopping with it. I will take some of your suggestions to thought and see where it goes...

In the mean time I have a full keg of the best beer I've brewed to help with that, so thanks for the recipe, it's great!
 
Thanks for the reply Yooper. I was just reading while waiting for responses and saw that Chinook has some grapefruit qualities to it.... One of the reasons I thought to include it was that I had just had a fantastic chinook ipa, which did not seem citrusy in the least, very earthy and was just great, not that grapefruit is a bad taste I was just looking for something a little different.

I read that possible chinook can behave differently as a bittering/flavoring hop addition vs dry hopping with it. I will take some of your suggestions to thought and see where it goes...

In the mean time I have a full keg of the best beer I've brewed to help with that, so thanks for the recipe, it's great!


Maybe you should try doing an English Style IPA with EKG?
Here's an example recipe:
(mrbowenez English IPA Gold Winner) Here's the link: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/anyone-brewed-ipa-ekg-140192/#post1591350

Recipe:
Dry hopped with Chinook, other than that , all East Kent Goldings, Chinook is a distantly related cultivar of the Petham Golding


GABF Pro AM -Gold Medal
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 5/16/2007
Style: English IPA Brewer: Christopher Bowen
Batch Size: 5.00 gal Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 5.72 gal Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Equipment: My Equipment
Actual Efficiency: 69.96 %

Taste Rating (50 possible points): 48.0
Best of show at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival - ProAM catagory, Silver medal at the AHA regional , Gold medal at the Kona Beer Festival 2008

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 86.13 %
14.4 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 7.58 %
6.4 oz Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 3.45 %
5.4 oz Wheat, Torrified (1.7 SRM) Grain 2.84 %
1.25 oz Chinook [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -
2.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 33.1 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (10 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days) Misc
1 Pkgs Thames Valley Ale (Wyeast Labs #1275) [Starter 125 ml] Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.062 SG (1.050-1.075 SG) Measured Original Gravity: 1.058 SG
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.015 SG (1.010-1.018 SG) Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Color: 11.0 SRM (8.0-14.0 SRM) Color [Color]
Bitterness: 33.1 IBU (40.0-60.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 10.0 AAU
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 6.10 % (5.00-7.50 %) Actual Alcohol by Volume: 6.26 %
Actual Calories: 257 cal/pint


Mash Profile Name: Single Infusion, Full Body
Mash Grain Weight: 11.61 lb Mash PH: 5.4 PH
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F
Sparge Water: 2.03 gal

Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Mash In Add 3.63 gal of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F 90 min
Mash Out Add 1.45 gal of water and heat to 180.0 F over 2 min 180.0 F 10 min


Mash Notes
Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Carbonation Volumes: 2.4 (2.2-2.7 vols)
Estimated Priming Weight: 3.8 oz Temperature at Bottling: 60.0 F
Primer Used: 3.5 Age for: 2.0 Weeks
Storage Temperature: 58.0 F

I've done this one w/S-04 and it came out fine and dandy, and has been brewed by friends after tasting mine.

Note to self, put this one the "Need to brew again soon" list.
 
When I brewed it a long time ago, I recall it being very grapefruit forward when it was really young, but once it conditioned a bit, the other fruits rounded out.
 
My first 60 minute was very an extract version and I'm ready to brew an all grain. I used Thames Valley 1275, how would this compare to the pacman or a Ringwood 1187? I loved this and washed the yeast so I'll probably stick with the Thames but am curious of the differences?
 
My first 60 minute was very an extract version and I'm ready to brew an all grain. I used Thames Valley 1275, how would this compare to the pacman or a Ringwood 1187? I loved this and washed the yeast so I'll probably stick with the Thames but am curious of the differences?

I've heard that ringwood is the original strain. I've never had good results with that strain, as it gets diacetyl issues at times, and I can't get it to finish clean.

I only used Thames Valley once, in a stout, and it's very "minerally" to me and I'm not a fan.

I really like "clean" finishing yeast in my IPAs, though.
 
I've heard that ringwood is the original strain. I've never had good results with that strain, as it gets diacetyl issues at times, and I can't get it to finish clean.

I only used Thames Valley once, in a stout, and it's very "minerally" to me and I'm not a fan.

I really like "clean" finishing yeast in my IPAs, though.

I was told by my LHBS that the ringwood can be difficult. Maybe I'll try the Nottingham as I haven't tried a dry yeast yet and would save me the trouble of a starte?
 
I was told by my LHBS that the ringwood can be difficult. Maybe I'll try the Nottingham as I haven't tried a dry yeast yet and would save me the trouble of a starte?

You could. Make sure you keep it under about 68, and lower is better, because nottingham gets weirdly fruity at 70 or above, and foul at 72 or above. It does very well at low temperatures, though- 59 degrees wouldn't be too low for nottingham in an IPA.
 
You could. Make sure you keep it under about 68, and lower is better, because nottingham gets weirdly fruity at 70 or above, and foul at 72 or above. It does very well at low temperatures, though- 59 degrees wouldn't be too low for nottingham in an IPA.

Just during the first 1-5 or so days of active fermendations or the entire 3 or so weeks I typically leave it in the primary?
 
Just during the first 1-5 or so days of active fermendations or the entire 3 or so weeks I typically leave it in the primary?

I've never left it in primary for three weeks, so I don't really know what the temperature changes do after fermentation ends. I normally keep it at fermentation temperature until I package the beer.
 

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