How difficult would this be to do? (Install ball valve)

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

IPAAAA

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
437
Reaction score
7
Location
ca
I am looking at buying a 15 gallon pot but it does not come with a ball valve. Would it be difficult to install one myself? I have a dremel and a few other tools. I don't want to ruin an expensive pot so wanted to see if it was possible or even a good idea instead of having one welded in and not screwed on.
 
Sure, you just need a titanium step bit, a good drill and some will power. Buy a weldless ball valve kit from bargain fittings and you are all set. I have drilled many, many holes in my three SS kettles.
 
+1 on bargain fittings. I ordered my ball valve kit from them for my cooler. I could've saved a few bucks if I bought all the parts seperately, but not much and it was easy knowing I had all the stuff I needed in one little bag that UPS dropped off.
 
Is that step bit something I can buy at the hardware store? What should I be looking to spend on that bit and the ball valve all together?
 
+1 on the harbor freight step bit. The one I have has drilled several holes in my kettles and the price was right.
 
I used the harbor freight step bit with some vegtable oil. Very quick and easy. Just remember to use the oil
 
Pam also works well. I use masking tape to center and start the hole, going very slow, and hold the pot between my legs with my feet. Lots of pressure and you get the hang of it pretty quickly.
 
I have the HF step bits and they are the exact same ones that BF sells. Except that HF sells them for way cheaper.
 
Thanks for all the information guys...really appreciate it.

I gotta see if their is a harbor freight around me. Should I get the ball valve that is SS or brass?
 
Ya I saw that but I'd rather just go and get it locally if I can. I think an ace hardware or something will carry them to so I will check it out.

I'm a little confused with the Keg weldless bulkhead kit on great bargain. I can't just get the bulkhead only correct? Need to choose the barb and valve too? That ends up being like $23 bucks for one kit....seems a little high for me from that other stuff I have read on here.
 
You can't beat bargain fittings prices in my experience. I have ordered from them many many times.
 
Which piece is the bulkhead? I would think that without the ball valve the bulkhead by itself seems rather pointless. Am I correct in thinking that?

Yes, you are correct. But if you think you can save a couple bucks on a ball valve locally, you don't need the one from Bargain Fittings...

If you look closely at the Bargain Fittings bulkhead you can figure out the parts involved and build it yourself. You can get the O-rings from Grainger or McMaster Carr. You can get the fittings from both of them also. Once you get the parts, you'll need to chuck the nut up in your lathe and cut the o-ring groove, and you'll be good to go.
 
Yes, you are correct. But if you think you can save a couple bucks on a ball valve locally, you don't need the one from Bargain Fittings...

If you look closely at the Bargain Fittings bulkhead you can figure out the parts involved and build it yourself. You can get the O-rings from Grainger or McMaster Carr. You can get the fittings from both of them also. Once you get the parts, you'll need to chuck the nut up in your lathe and cut the o-ring groove, and you'll be good to go.

Ya sounds simple to you but not to me haha. I don't have a lathe so that is definitely outta the question.

I am just trying to do this right the first time but it looks like I am just gonna have to spend the cash..

I was just looking at that thread on using a 10 gallon gatorade jug and that setup only costs around 8 bucks so that is why I was thinking this was a little steep in price.
 
I am also looking at getting a immersion chiller. I have not been able to find a good copper one that is 50 feet but also has the soldered on hose connections. Well atleast not for a decent price. I want to make my own but it looks like copper prices are just to much to make it worth my time and effort.
 
I am also looking at getting a immersion chiller. I have not been able to find a good copper one that is 50 feet but also has the soldered on hose connections. Well atleast not for a decent price. I want to make my own but it looks like copper prices are just to much to make it worth my time and effort.

Have you checked prices with these guys yet for that copper tubing?

http://www.coppertubingsales.com/storefront/index.php

I've bought from them and they were great. I also have to recommend the harbor freight step bit and the weldless bulkhead fitting form Bargain Fittings...good luck!
 
Have you checked prices with these guys yet for that copper tubing?

http://www.coppertubingsales.com/storefront/index.php

I've bought from them and they were great. I also have to recommend the harbor freight step bit and the weldless bulkhead fitting form Bargain Fittings...good luck!

$33 bucks before shipping seems pretty good. I just don't have everything else to solder the ends of the tube so I think all of that will add up.
 
HBT user Pickles is selling these surplus bulkheads. I bought a couple, and they are on par with the high-end fittings McMaster Carr sells. Worked great, w/ no leaks. He is charging $12 each, and has a lot of good feedback on them.

I just sent him a message today to see if he has more left- he seems to be selling quite a few of them, not sure how many more he has.

Here's a link.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/stainless-steel-bulkheads-1-2-npt-internal-threads-173648/index5.html

So the bulkhead is what the ball valve hooks to? So I need to buy it and screw it into the pot then the ball valve screws onto the bulk head?
 
The bulkhead will attach to the keg, giving you a female 1/2" npt connection on both the inside and outside of keg. To hook to your ball valve, assuming it has female ends, you would just use a 1/2" npt nipple to connect the two. The bulkhead will clamp down tight on the keg- it's pretty slick and simple. To make the hole in the keg, just use the smallest hole saw or step bit that will allow it to pass through.
 
Just to double check I would need two of these once I get a mash tun right?
 
You will need one for every penetration of the kettle. So I would plan on at least one per, just for the bottom valves... Maybe more if you go with a HERMS in your HLT or something like that. It just depends on your system.
 
I still new to this so I don't understand what you mean by every penetration of the kettle
or herms of hlt.
 
Never mind HERMS- he was just being thorough in his answer. For what we're talking about, here's the basic process:

You want to attach a ball valve to your 15 gallon kettle/keggle/metal vessel.

-order yourself a bulkhead from Pickles (PM him on HBT). He will include for $12 (plus small shipping) the bulkhead components and o-rings. Awesome deal- they're like $95 on McMaster-Carr.

-in the meantime, get the step bit mentioned previously from harbor freight or bargain fittings.

-when the bulkhead arrives, drill a small pilot hole in the side of the kettle/keggle where you want the penetration to be centered. then, use pilot hole to guide the step bit and create the necessary penetration to just barely allow the bulkhead to pass through.

-insert the bulkhead and screw it down tight so it clamps down on the keg.

-then, you simply just get the proper size and length nipple to connect the bulkhead to the ball valve.
 
GGandee - Thanks for the free advertisement :)

IPAAAA - My bulkheads will work for your purposes, but if I were you I would buy the complete set from bargain fittings. That way you'll have all the components you need and it'll be done. You can pick up the bit from bargain fittings while your at it. His prices are about as good as it gets for these things. As far as drilling goes; just go slow with the step bit and check your fit frequently and you'll be fine.
 
Never mind HERMS- he was just being thorough in his answer. For what we're talking about, here's the basic process:

You want to attach a ball valve to your 15 gallon kettle/keggle/metal vessel.

-order yourself a bulkhead from Pickles (PM him on HBT). He will include for $12 (plus small shipping) the bulkhead components and o-rings. Awesome deal- they're like $95 on McMaster-Carr.

-in the meantime, get the step bit mentioned previously from harbor freight or bargain fittings.

-when the bulkhead arrives, drill a small pilot hole in the side of the kettle/keggle where you want the penetration to be centered. then, use pilot hole to guide the step bit and create the necessary penetration to just barely allow the bulkhead to pass through.

-insert the bulkhead and screw it down tight so it clamps down on the keg.

-then, you simply just get the proper size and length nipple to connect the bulkhead to the ball valve.

Thank you for the detailed info!

GGandee - Thanks for the free advertisement :)

IPAAAA - My bulkheads will work for your purposes, but if I were you I would buy the complete set from bargain fittings. That way you'll have all the components you need and it'll be done. You can pick up the bit from bargain fittings while your at it. His prices are about as good as it gets for these things. As far as drilling goes; just go slow with the step bit and check your fit frequently and you'll be fine.

Is there a difference between yours and bargain fittings setup? I would gladly buy from you if I could figure out the rest of the pieces I would need for the ball valve and attach to the bulkhead.

Now if you got a good 50 ft IC for a good deal then I would definitely buy it. :D
 
BTW - If you feel that you are going to drill lots of holes in sheet metal in the future I would definitely recommend the step bit; however it is possible to create a hole in SS with only your basic Dremel kit setup if that's what you have. You need to mark the hole size and grind away (with the smallest grinding stone you have ) INSIDE the mark (its easier to make it bigger if you make a mistake but not the other way). This will take longer because you have to keep grinding out just a tiny bit of material on each pass - don't get greedy. But it will work in a pinch - This is actually the way I cut the top off my Sankey Keg - making an almost perfect circle with a very smooth edge (took 15 min)
 
Back
Top