Perlicks + tap handles + keezer lid = FAIL

I just got some perlicks for my keezer and didn't realize how close to the shank the tap handles sit. they overhang my keezer lid and the lid can't be opened without hitting the taps and opening the taps. what have you guys done to correct this?

some of the possible solutions i've come across are:

switch to plain tap handles
i really don't wanna do this since i just bought some nice branded tap handles for my commercial brews.

angle bonnet:
Angle Bonnet Fitting for Tap Handle Faucets - Draft Beer Supplies
seems like the perlicks need the angle and weight of the tap handles to keep a good seal though. adjusting the tap handles to near vertical seems like it would make it very easy to accidentally open the taps.

thicker faucet flanges
i've seen this mentioned in other threads but haven't found pics or a cheap flange that would work.

spacer
a couple people proposed putting another piece of wood or some pvc piping to space the shank further out from the fridge. this seems pretty cheap and easy to accomplish. does anyone have pics of the final product?


I do have just enough extra length on my flanges the space the faucets out the extra 3/4" or so it looks like I need.

Any pics of your solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Perlicks are on the ends, cheapo self-closing faucets in the middle:

Another option would be Beer Keg Faucet Flow Control Adaptor ... also gives you the added benefit of adding flow control.

Edit: I found the other thing... http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2084

I bought the anglers. They are ridiculously expensive, but they work pretty well.

b-boy said:

I bought the anglers. They are ridiculously expensive, but they work pretty well.

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I have a set also... the problem I ran into is that the handles spin and are hard to get the "angle" in the right orientation. I just gave up on them and they are sitting in a box. For now I have the short handles on mine... eventually I'd like to use the extenders or the flow controls and get a longer drip tray (the reason I don't have the extenders now).

I have a mini Sam Adams handle if that would help you. lemme know!

Kris

Never open the keezer lid. Problem solved. Your welcome.

you could also attach the collar to the lid.

The Beergods are clearly speaking to you:

Ditch the Sam Adams and especially the Blue Moon--both the tap handles and the kegs....

Then, install your own (smaller taps) and home made beer.

Trust me, you will be most happy with that decision.

p.s. when I say "ditch"--> I mean chug and never purchase again...

Do you have enuff shank for a 3/4 round spacer right behind your taps? Example, make some round plugs that are 3/4 thick and place them right behind the black plastic collars to space them out a bit. If so, I might know someone that runs a CNC mill that could make them very quick out of high density foam that would take paint rather nicely..Just pay shipping

I got some cheapo chrome plated faucet flanges from home depot. They're larger diameter than the black plastic ones. On my system, they're mounted behind the black plastic flanges and give me that extra 1/2-3/4 in I need to clear my tap handles. if I remember later, i'll snap a pic for ya.

EFaden said:

Another option would be Beer Keg Faucet Flow Control Adaptor ... also gives you the added benefit of adding flow control.

Edit: I found the other thing... Shank Extension - 1 Shank Extension - 1 [Shank Extension - 12A03167] - $6.75 : The CHI Company, New and used beverage equipment for Homebrewing, Home winemaking, Soda systems and used Pepsi vending equipment

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hmm that spacer looks great but i've got only about 3/4" of extra thread on my shanks...

the spacing works about perfect if i slip another piece of 1x4 in there (that's what the collars made from).

GTO_Guy said:

I have a mini Sam Adams handle if that would help you. lemme know!

Kris

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thanks so much for the offer, but i just bought these and it's actually the mini version already (9")

Atl300zx said:

you could also attach the collar to the lid.

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i'd really rather not due to the additional clearance needed for opening. the keezer is partially behind other furniture (hence the side-mount taps) so pulling it away from the wall everytime i need to open it would be almost as much work as removing tap handles to open the lid.

fright101 said:

Do you have enuff shank for a 3/4 round spacer right behind your taps? Example, make some round plugs that are 3/4 thick and place them right behind the black plastic collars to space them out a bit. If so, I might know someone that runs a CNC mill that could make them very quick out of high density foam that would take paint rather nicely..Just pay shipping

Click to expand...

wow really? i'm definitely interested. i was gonna look at pvc piping/couplers today to try and find a size that'd fit behind the collars nicely, but that might be a better solution.

is the foam rigid enough to tighten the shank collar against it?

boogyman said:

I got some cheapo chrome plated faucet flanges from home depot. They're larger diameter than the black plastic ones. On my system, they're mounted behind the black plastic flanges and give me that extra 1/2-3/4 in I need to clear my tap handles. if I remember later, i'll snap a pic for ya.

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thanks. would definitely be interested to see how it came out.

Just unscrew the problem handles when you need to open the top. Unless your guests are drinking like fish, you should not have to open it more than once or twice in a night.

mcubed45 said:

is the foam rigid enough to tighten the shank collar against it?

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That shank isn't going to hurt the foam at all. It is 50lb density..about 2/3 the density of the black ABS collar that is on there now. I am machining some models out of it now..It' wouldn't be a problem to slip the spacers in there. I have to measure the ring when I get home tonight and I will make a few for ya.

magnacasa said:

Just unscrew the problem handles when you need to open the top. Unless your guests are drinking like fish, you should not have to open it more than once or twice in a night.

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the keezer's used for storage of all things alcohol. only the main storage area is reserved for 4 kegs. there's storage on the hump and in baskets that hang from the top so there's quite a bit of other stuff in there besides the kegs that'd like to have regular access to.

fright101 said:

That shank isn't going to hurt the foam at all. It is 50lb density..about 2/3 the density of the black ABS collar that is on there now. I am machining some models out of it now..It' wouldn't be a problem to slip the spacers in there. I have to measure the ring when I get home tonight and I will make a few for ya.

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ah cool. you rock!

when you said foam, I wasn't sure if it was a material that compresses at all. (since the shank nut and collar need to be tightened aginst a rigid surface to prevent it from spinning).

if it's not too much trouble, i do need four since i'll be converting to all perlicks eventually.

You could do what Hoppopotomus did here - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/knotty-pine-cedar-log-keezer-build-223902/index7.html#post2821423 dependant on how much space you have left on the shanks

Here's the pics of what I did. the little chrome flanges were like $2/ea, and they provided just the right amount of spacing.

boogyman said:

Here's the pics of what I did. the little chrome flanges were like $2/ea, and they provided just the right amount of spacing.

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awesome. thanks for the pics!

i actually saw those same flanges when I went to look at lowes yesterday. They didn't give me the 3/4" spacing I needed tho. I noticed your perlicks are a little different so maybe the angle is bigger on my 525's b/c an extra 3/4" BARELY gives my Blue Moon handle clearance.

boogyman said:

Here's the pics of what I did. the little chrome flanges were like $2/ea, and they provided just the right amount of spacing.

Click to expand...

awesome. thanks for the pics!

i actually saw those same flanges when I went to look at lowes yesterday. They didn't give me the 3/4" spacing I needed tho. I noticed your perlicks are a little different so maybe the angle is bigger on my 525's b/c an extra 3/4" BARELY gives my Blue Moon handle clearance.

Parts are done..They will need to be painted..It helps to throw a little primer on them..but not totally necessary. I put a shallow pocket in them to capture the beauty ring to help center it on the shank. I had to make 2 for myself..But I did make you 4. PM me your info

sorry for the horribly late reply, got busy with life and totally forgot about posting the pics. the spacers fright101 are absolutely perfect. definitely necessary for anyone using perlicks on anything besides a tower.

Those turned out very nice..looks great with paint!

I still need to install the ones I made for myself and perhaps make a few more for some additional faucets.

Thanks for the pics!

Bill

fright101 said:

Parts are done..They will need to be painted..It helps to throw a little primer on them..but not totally necessary. I put a shallow pocket in them to capture the beauty ring to help center it on the shank. I had to make 2 for myself..But I did make you 4. PM me your info

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I might need a set of 4, how much?

mattyb85 said:

I might need a set of 4, how much?

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I made his for the cost of shipping- Not something I can do again as I was only looking to solve an immediate need.
PM me- We can works something out-

fright101 said:

Those turned out very nice..looks great with paint!

I still need to install the ones I made for myself and perhaps make a few more for some additional faucets.

Thanks for the pics!

Bill

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thank you again for such a perfect solution!

ended up not using primer. just regular gloss black spray paint. went on great.

i can open my kegerator without hitting my taps!

fright101 said:

I made his for the cost of shipping- Not something I can do again as I was only looking to solve an immediate need.
PM me- We can works something out-

Click to expand...

Any chance you would want to post how to made these?