I had always been disappointed with my attempts at dry hopping. I did it a couple of times in the keg and the results were almost undrinkable. Very harsh and grassy notes, not pleasant and floral like some of the commercial examples (Bell's Two Hearted Ale is probably the best example I can think of). I swore off dry hopping and relied on late boil additions instead, and while this process made fine beer, it wasn't quite what I wanted.
Then, in 2006, I attended the National Homebrew Conference in Orlando. I went to a seminar given by Matt Brynildson who is the brewmaster over at Firestone brewery. He talked about getting hop character in beer in a variety of ways and talked about dry hopping and described the process that he uses and the reasons why it works for him. The process is as follows:
Once the beer starts fermenting in the primary, let it reach high krausen and then start to crash (about 1 day or so after high krausen). Fermentation is still going on, but at a lower activity level. Add your dry hops to the primary at this point and let the beer continue to ferment with the dry hops for 3 days total. After 3 days, fermentation should be complete and the beer should be racked to a secondary. If you use pellet hops (and I would recommend that you do), it may be necessary to rack one additional time to help remove as much hop debris as possible. Keg or bottle as usual.
I went home and tried this technique and was blown away at the difference. What was once grassy and harsh, is now floral and almost perfumey with wonderful hop character. I am a dedicated dry hopper now.
Some things that I think are important:
- Dry hopping using this method with whole hops is problematic. I use carboys, and trying to stuff whole hops into the neck of a carboy is not something I think is practical. Use pellet hops and your life will be much easier.
- Do not use a hop bag. Just dump the pellets in, this will maximize the exposure of the hops to the wort and get the biggest impact. I usually get a clean piece of printer paper, weigh out the hops, place the hops on the paper, then bend the paper to form a trough so that the hops can be dumped right into the neck of the carboy. No funnel necessary.
- As the beer ferments with the hops in it, the hops want to float to the top. A couple of times a day, I'll go in and swirl the carboy a few times to help submerge the hops.
- Don't exceed 3 days. This is plenty of time to get what the hops have to offer. More than this and you risk getting those harsh grassy notes.
- Pick a hop variety that you like. Dry hopping gives you a concentrated does of whatever your hops smell and taste like. I am absolutely nuts over Centennial right now. That is what is in the Bell's Two Hearted.
- I think 2 - 3 oz of dry hops for a 5 - 6 gallon batch is appropriate and gives a great hop character.
- Increase your batch size by 1/2 gallon or so due to the added wort lost in dry hop absorption and the possibility of an extra racking.
Sorry this is long. Hope it helps.
Prosit!
