Does my drill suck?
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ic3scrap3r
Well-Known Member
+1. A cordless drill is pretty much a "screw gun". They are not very effective at drilling any decent gauge of steel/iron/etc.
Are you using a cordless drill?
I drill 6 holes in 3 kegs in about 1-1/2 hours with a corded drill. I used a center punch to mark the holes, then a 1/8" drill bit to create pilot holes and then a step bit to finish. Drilling steps were performed at a relatively slow speed with high pressure, lubrication and patience.
I drill 6 holes in 3 kegs in about 1-1/2 hours with a corded drill. I used a center punch to mark the holes, then a 1/8" drill bit to create pilot holes and then a step bit to finish. Drilling steps were performed at a relatively slow speed with high pressure, lubrication and patience.
DoubleXL
Well-Known Member
hmmmm my 18v Dewalt made 2 " 1/2" " holes in 2 kegs on one battery with a uni bit
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Drilling stainless is about pressure applied and SLOW speed, with a unibit/step bit you should be almost cutting ribbons of steel away. Most cordless drills don't have the torque for that job. If you're using a hole saw, and you've had it spinning fast, you have probably work hardened the stainless and simultaneously dulled the bit.
johnnyc
Well-Known Member
My Ryobi 18v handled it no problem at all. Also used a uni bit. Those damn things are expensive 
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Sit on top of the keg like you're riding a horse and put your weight into the drill, and go slowly, some vegetable oil wouldn't hurt either.
Even the regular one will make the cut (it probably won't survive for another cut though).
springer
Well-Known Member
Didn't use a hole saw But the 24 Volt Bosch eat the holes right up with a step bit. If you went to fast you most likely killed your hole saw . I would get a new Bi metal one go slow with lots of pressure
+1 on the step bit. If you think you will drill more than this one hole, make the investment in a uni/step bit. I use step bits for alot of projects, great tool to have.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
Even using a Unibit not a "el Cheapo" brand X will instantly
break their cutting edge when drilling stainless. Tin snips the same thing. If your handy with a Dremel with a parting disc you can dress the Unibits pocket
deeper maintaining the same angle to get that sharp cutting edge back.
A high sulfur cutting oil like 90 wt gear oil or a oil especially made for stainless plus half the speed you think is slow with high pressure. This will
make for clean cut holes plus making long chips. Se any cutting oil smoke quit.
Bernie Brewer
Grouchy Old Fart
JKoravos
Well-Known Member
Ah, there's your problem...that's not a drill.
Buy a cheap ass corded drill at the hardware store. A powerful drill and a good hole saw will go through a keg in seconds.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
I've used my Milwaukee screw gun with a 5/16" magnetic socket to drive self tapping sheet metal screws thru light gauge electrical panels into light and regular gauge angle iron. You can even snap off self taping screws unless you back out and go forward a couple of times before driving it in tight.
Add a Milwaukee 1/2 variable speed hole shooter your going to have a battle holding onto it should it snag while hole sawing. Step it up to a older Milwaukee Hole Hog with two speed, a destroyer of wrists, arms, elbows and shoulders if drilling overhead on a ladder and it hangs up.
Stepping up another another killer is a Sieux 3/4" drive "D" handle drill motor that has a threaded body for screwing in a length of 3/4" ridgid conduit for a torque lever to hang onto it. At a no load a 350 rpm drill motor. I use it to spin a new motor rebuild around 10 turns before adding the cam to loosen up the ring friction before finishing the build. This allows for a faster start rpm after the pre oil.
I'm leaving out a gas powered fence post hole auger used to turn over other items like a small diesel engine. It worked, started it.
i have used em all makita 18v beats em all hands down. I commonly run a 4.5 inch hole saw in wood and it has no problems, mix grout, paint ,screw in big lag bolts if you are going to upgrade i highly recomend it. all there cordless stuff is awesome the angle grinder and sawzall eat batteries though.
BA_from_GA
Well-Known Member
Get a Uni bit. Hole saw's don't work well on steel. That's the key. As per Cordless drills worth, they'll work fine. I drill thousands of holes a week in solid steel up to 5/16 thick, all with cordless drills... just gotta have the right bit for what you're doing.
I have to take up on this issue. I sell tools for a living and I can guarantee you that the right cordless tool can get the job done. It's really a matter of how many applications per charge. A few holes in a keg...? This shouldn't be an issue.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
If it started to squeal like chrome on chrome you've work hardened the stainless which will be about as hard as glass and will eat up your Unibit.
I have had this happen myself then used a carbide rotary file in the air grinder to grind thru this thin hardened layer of then able to use the Unibit again and finish the hole. Finish drilling the hole only if the Unibit's up to the job and not been dulled from the same hole that was work hardened. Annular carbide cutter with the magnetic base drill press allows for a perfect clean machined hole. Use in inch or metric to get the right tight fit for a easy and clean Tig weld.
I have had this happen myself then used a carbide rotary file in the air grinder to grind thru this thin hardened layer of then able to use the Unibit again and finish the hole. Finish drilling the hole only if the Unibit's up to the job and not been dulled from the same hole that was work hardened. Annular carbide cutter with the magnetic base drill press allows for a perfect clean machined hole. Use in inch or metric to get the right tight fit for a easy and clean Tig weld.
Buzzy
Well-Known Member
I lay out a hole with some dividers than I use my plasma cutter to rough out the hole. I follow behind with carbide burr and grind to the line. I know alot of people out there don't have these tools but this works for me.
Bernie Brewer
Grouchy Old Fart
You people and your Unibits. I don't get it. Never have and never will. They have their purpose, for sure, but if you want to drill, say a 1 1/8" hole, then you have to go through all the steps to get to that size with your unibit. That's like drilling five holes to make one. No wonder your batteries don't last. A Unibit certainly has its purpose-to make an existing hole bigger, not to start from scratch.
And to say that a holesaw won't work on steel is ludicrous. I do it every day.
And to say that a holesaw won't work on steel is ludicrous. I do it every day.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
Wait I can answer that one, can't cut a steel panel. I had a super smart wise ass young apprentice that destroyed two Linox hole saws running them at high speed then add to this backwards.
JKoravos
Well-Known Member
Hole saws work fine on thin stuff and soft stuff. I probably wouldn't go with a hole saw for any steel over about .032"-ish. Doesn't make a very clean hole though.
scuv
Active Member
I depends what drill you've got - the cheaper it is the quicker the battery will run out
Kauai_Kahuna
Well-Known Member
Maybe it's just the cider talking, but Does my drill suck?
Ideally it rotates, sucking is for vacuums and girlfriends.
Personally I have come to that age in life where I realize I have spent a whole lot of money on crappy tools that don't last very long.
I miss the days when tools would last a lifetime if taken care of.
Ideally it rotates, sucking is for vacuums and girlfriends.
Personally I have come to that age in life where I realize I have spent a whole lot of money on crappy tools that don't last very long.
I miss the days when tools would last a lifetime if taken care of.
Yeah, hole saw worked fine for me. No reason at all for that not to work. Hole couldn't have come out much cleaner, don't even think I had to touch it up much with a file, and that's drilling a keggle. You don't NEED a unibit.
The 7.2V drill, though, is the problem! I upgraded from a cheap 14.4V B&D to just a simple, $100 18V DeWalt, and it makes a world of difference in every project. You'll never regret upgrading, it makes every project you do easier. No need to spend a lot more than that for working around the house, and I would stick with cordless (corded drills are a PITA).
The Pol
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I am all for the utility of cordless drills, but I have to say, when I have a job that I need DONE, aside from driving screws... I use my 1/2" chuck 7.2A corded drill. It has excellent low speed torque (geared) and since it is plugged in to the power grid, it is always ready to perform at 100%.
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Applied correctly, even a cheap harbor freight step bit will start cutting ribbons of ss away and cut through fairly quick. It also leaves a round hole, not egg or triangle shaped like some bits do. It does help to have a starter hole drilled, the tips aren't good for much, it's the outer edge that does the work. I figured the OP has hardened the steel and it's going to be difficult to cut now. Maybe go with the sheet metal punch approach?
I am amazed we're having another "drill the keg" thread.
I am amazed we're having another "drill the keg" thread.
crawford
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just to be a smart-arse.... Do you have the drill set to forward, not reverse?
I bought a 18 volt Dewalt when i bought my house and i almost used it every day since. if i were to drill something like that i have a standby chorded dewalt. THe beatings they can take are unbelievable.
If your drill on something that long there has to be something wrong with the bit your using.
I bought a 18 volt Dewalt when i bought my house and i almost used it every day since. if i were to drill something like that i have a standby chorded dewalt. THe beatings they can take are unbelievable.
If your drill on something that long there has to be something wrong with the bit your using.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
Many of time people people keep recharging their cordless tool batteries when they haven't been full discharged or drained then they have a memory and not give give you a full charge of use.
Even in this day and age you can get lucky and still locate good used Milwaukee power tools be it on ebay way below new cost, check at used electrical liquidators, friends even garage sales.
From portable band saws, hole hawg, 1/2" angle drill, 1/2" hole shooter, screw shooter, SawZall, 1 1/2" Rotary Hammer, 4 1/2" grinders, 9" grinder,
1 1/4" Magnetic Drill Press plus a 3" 14,500 rpm straight die grinder are all Milwaukee. Buy once a quality tool it lasts a lifetime. I was in the electrical trade where quality tools made us money.
The 20 year old Makita 7.2 volt cordless drill and screw gun is weak by todays standards but still fills in when there is no power or a quick job. Just use it within its limits.
JKoravos
Well-Known Member
I have the Milwaukee Holeshooter. I've put that thing through it's paces and it's never faltered. Gotta be careful though, if you're not paying attention (especially when cutting metal) that sucker will rip your arm off.
Only NiCad batteries have a charge memory and need to be discharged. I know the packs in my Dewalt XRP are NiMH and don't need to be run to full discharge.
rico567
Well-Known Member
I've got a real nice Hitachi lithium battery 18v drill.......but I wouldn't use it for grinding grain, because I don't need to. I've got an antique all-metal Craftsman 1/2" drill that doesn't turn super fast, but it's an ideal tool for turning the auger on my Corona mill. It gets kinda warm by the time I've gone through 15 pounds of grain, but it's a beautiful tool for the job:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attach...-my-ugly-junk-corona-mill-station-corona5.jpg
That pipe that is screwed into the top, forming an extra handle, makes an ideal brace for the drill while crushing grain.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attach...-my-ugly-junk-corona-mill-station-corona5.jpg
That pipe that is screwed into the top, forming an extra handle, makes an ideal brace for the drill while crushing grain.
Which DeWalt do you have? I just bought a brand new battery for my 14.4 V XRP, and it's still NiCd. What pissed me off, was two days after buying a $74 dollar replacement battery (that's one battery), Home Depot runs a sale on 18 V XRP; Drill, Case, Charger, 2 batteries = $99.
