Electric Question

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ohio-Ed

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
2,058
Reaction score
25
I'm working on a new electric system and starting to gather parts.

The question is; what are your thoughts on having separate 120 and 240 feeds into the same panel?

I know I can do 4 wire 240 to get the required 120v, but the cord, connectors, breakers, etc gets expensive very quickly as the current goes up.
From what I have seen, it looks like 60amp plugs and receptacles are nearly $100 each and 4/4 cord runs about $8/ft.

I hate the idea of having 2 cords running to the rig.

I think I need around 60 amps total. I'd like to have the option to run three heating elements (5500, 5500, and 1500 watts). I'm thinking I could run the two 5500's on a 50amp 240v circuit, and the 1500, control panel and 2 pumps on a 20amp 120v circuit.

I am open to suggestions...

Thanks,
Ed

Edit:
Here is a link the the latest logical diagram:
http://www.mediafire.com/?ouy8eafm4515v2o

And the latest wiring diagram:
http://www.mediafire.com/?bfru5ngnsmz16qa
 
Plan on running all three elements at once? If you don't need both 5500's running at the same time then you can interlock them so when one is running the other is disabled.

That should get yah in a 50-40 amp 240v service. 6/4 is about half the cost of 4/4. Not sure what kind of system you got, that would help get an audit on the power requirements.
 
Plan on running all three elements at once? If you don't need both 5500's running at the same time then you can interlock them so when one is running the other is disabled.

Well, I haven't thought it through all the way, but was thinking I'd like to have the option of running all three. I can't really think of a time when I would need all three, but I might want to have the 5500 in the HLT on and the 5500 in the BK getting/keeping the runnings around 180-90 while fly sparging. I have also questioned whether I need 5500 in the HLT or if 4500 would do the job?

That should get yah in a 50-40 amp 240v service. 6/4 is about half the cost of 4/4. Not sure what kind of system you got, that would help get an audit on the power requirements.

I currently have two 5500 watt elements for the HLT & BK. I have built a 1500w, 120v RIMs heater. I have a 60amp GFCI SPA Disconnect Panel. I am in the process of converting kegs for the HLT & BK and I'm having couplings welded in for a HERMs coil. The elements in the HLT & BK are going to be removable so I can plug the holes and heat with propane if I choose. I also have 2 pumps. I guess, I'm going for ultimate flexibility and being able to run all three elements is a step in that direction.

Ed
 
I have a 60amp GFCI SPA Disconnect Panel.
Ed

Is the spa in use/abandoned or is there a 60amp disconnect panel where you are going to brew? You are looking at least 52 amps, running all, provided they are 240V.

And, what is the distance from the panel or existing power source?
 
Is the spa in use/abandoned or is there a 60amp disconnect panel where you are going to brew? You are looking at least 52 amps, running all, provided they are 240V.

And, what is the distance from the panel or existing power source?

The 1500 watt element is 120v.

Well, the spa disconnect is laying in my floor right now. I found it new, on clearance at home depot. I think it was about half the price of a gfci breaker for my breaker panel. It happens to have a Siemens GFCI breaker in it, and I have a Siemens panel in my garage. I think I have two choices... I could remove the gfci breaker from the disconnect and install it in my panel (I have to make sure it's compatible, but I think it is), OR, I was thinking about connecting the spa disconnect to a 50amp breaker in my breaker panel. So I end up with 50amp over-current protection and gfci protection.

If I put the 60amp in the breaker panel and try to run all three elements, then I think I'm forced to run 4/4 all the way to my control panel.

If I put a 50amp breaker in the breaker panel, I thought I could run 6/4.
But then to run all three elements, I'd need another source for the 1500 watt.

I feel like I have A.D.D., my mind is running in circles, trying to figure this out.

As for spacing...
I'd like to have a 240v receptacle on the wall to plug the rig into. The receptacle can be within 2-3' of the breaker panel. I'd like to be able to have the rig up to 10-15' from the receptacle. The rig has to be mobile. I don't plan to use this (at least not the 240v elements) anywhere else.

Wow... thats alot of typing, and I feel like there are 100 more details not even mentioned.

Thanks,
Ed
 
Well you could drop the 5500W to 4500W and you'll be right at 50. Not what I would recommend though.

You could configure the 5500W elements so that they can run on 110 or 240v. So if you just need one to maintain heat while the other one needs to be full tilt then that may work. a 5500W element on 110 will only use 1375W, dropping your load consumption.

Doing the math, 2 5500W elements is going to put you at 46Amps which is a little close for comfort for a 50 Amp load. put a 60 Amp breaker in there and add the 1500W 120v element puts you at 58 amps, way too close if you ask me, you'll be dealing with nuisance trips eventually.

I think you really need to do another power survey and see where you can cut back some.
 
GreenMonti - 6/4 SO Cord is rated for 45 amps (6/3 is 55).

CodeRage - I will think it out a bit more... One option I have is to run a 5500 in the HLT and during the sparge I could circulate the runnings through the 1500 watt RIMS heater to maintain the temp. To your point then I can interlock the 5500 watt elements. That puts me well in the range of the 50amp breaker.

I also have a 17', 10/4 cord I got from ebay with a built in 30amp gfci. If I interlock the elements it could be used if I went back to the idea of both a 120v and 240v cords to supply the rig.

Do you see any problems with a 50amp in the breaker panel feeding a 60amp gfci and running 6/4 between them and to my control panel?

Do you have a sample of a switch / relay combination that would handle the current and provide the interlock? I'd like to have a maintained on-off-on, to select the element or shut both off.

Also, I'm still pondering the control options. I have a PID now. But, I am considering a Brewtroller or BCS-460, so I may need a power supply. If it would help selecting switches and relays, the power supply could pull double duty to provide the interlock relay control voltage.

Too many questions at once? Sorry, told you I feel like I have a.d.d. about this right now.

Thanks for your help.

Ed
 
I bought the exact same breaker from home depot, from a spa panel on clearance :) Great score eh?
Well one week ago I just used it while installing 100 amp service in my outbuilding/brewery in my backyard.
I put the 60 amp seimens gfi right into a 100 amp seimens breaker panel. From that breaker I ran 6/3 copper plus ground to a 60 amp outlet (by the way these aren't readily available, I had to do some searching and here's the one I found: This was 28 dollars when I bought it)
From the receptacle I'll be using 6/4 SO cord straight to my control panel's disconnect and breakers. It will provide plenty of power for 2 5500 watt elements plus a good bit of 120v stuff (nothing high amperage, just 2 pumps, bcs, and a couple contactors). You have a bit more potential draw, and it may be fine, but its a close gamble.
My thoughts on your setup would be: definitely take the breaker from the spa panel and throw it in your main. Think hard about a situation where you'd need all 3 elements on. If you really want to have that ability, I would say your best bet is to indeed add a 120v power source in addition to the 60 amp. Once you start going over 50 amp, things get REAL pricey.
Cheers and good luck!
 
You don't need a 5500w 240 in the HLT, i had a 3800 and heated 14 gal in 45 min no problem. I also had a 4500w 240v in my BK b/c i dont have a pid or controller. for 10 gal batches, 4500w BK is perfect. And the MLT doesn't need an element. Just build a coil inside your HLT and pump the mash wort through it and raise the temp that way.
 
Well you could drop the 5500W to 4500W and you'll be right at 50. Not what I would recommend though.

You could configure the 5500W elements so that they can run on 110 or 240v. So if you just need one to maintain heat while the other one needs to be full tilt then that may work. a 5500W element on 110 will only use 1375W, dropping your load consumption.

Doing the math, 2 5500W elements is going to put you at 46Amps which is a little close for comfort for a 50 Amp load. put a 60 Amp breaker in there and add the 1500W 120v element puts you at 58 amps, way too close if you ask me, you'll be dealing with nuisance trips eventually.

I think you really need to do another power survey and see where you can cut back some.

If you don't mind, please take a look at the attached file. This is a work in process so I still have more work do do on it, but thought you might see something in the early stages that will keep me on the right track.

I've had a heck of a time finding a tool that I can use and then manage to post it on HBT. Attached is a zip file containing a pdf of a visio... wow, I need to figure out a better way.

Some notes about what I have so far...

1) This is just the power side.. I'm still debating control (PIDs, Brewtroller, or BCS460).
2) The selector switches should be 3 position, I just couldn't find a symbol.
3.) I'm thinking I should replace the switches with relays, but I don't know parts, sources, etc.
4.) I bought a 50amp GFCI to put in the panel and plan to have a receptacle fairly close. The rig will need to be portable, so I'm thinking I need 10-20' of cord on the rig.

This is open for suggestions, input, comments. I'm also hoping to get some input on sourcing.

Thanks,
Ed

View attachment Visio-panel v1.0.zip
 
Hi Ed,
You did just fine drawing your schematic.
I may have missed it some where along the line but, how much are we brewing here?
I would think 5500 watts in a 5-10 gal HLT is a little much; unless of course, it needs to be heated in a few minutes.
 
Hi Ed,
You did just fine drawing your schematic.
I may have missed it some where along the line but, how much are we brewing here?
I would think 5500 watts in a 5-10 gal HLT is a little much; unless of course, it needs to be heated in a few minutes.


10 gallon batches...
5500 watts should heat 10 gallons from 70 to 170 in 28 minutes...

Ed
 
Hi Ed,

Gonna play the devil for just a sec.

Where is the 70 degree water coming from? My tap water is much more cool.
 
Maybe you can save alittle by wattage by seperating the strike water volume from the sparge water volume. Just a thought.
 
Ed. I am building mostly the same setup. I have 2 2pole 30A gfci breakers to power the two primary 5500W elements. I also have a 1 pole 20A for the controls and the rims element. Both the rims and control are fused in the panel. I will have 3 wires to plug in on brewday (if I do not hard wire it) but to be able to run all pumps and heaters at the same time should allow us to do multiple batches quickly and consecutively.

If you need pricing on electric parts to comparison shop, let me know and I can set you up with a BOM
 
Ed. I am building mostly the same setup. I have 2 2pole 30A gfci breakers to power the two primary 5500W elements. I also have a 1 pole 20A for the controls and the rims element. Both the rims and control are fused in the panel. I will have 3 wires to plug in on brewday (if I do not hard wire it) but to be able to run all pumps and heaters at the same time should allow us to do multiple batches quickly and consecutively.

If you need pricing on electric parts to comparison shop, let me know and I can set you up with a BOM

I would appreciate anything you can share...

I have some items but very little is set in stone at this point.

Ed
 
lol... Mine is too... just pointing out it takes about 30 minutes to raise 10 gallon temp 100f.

Ed


So, is that linear?

What I mean is, will it still raise 100 degrees in about 30 mins if the starting temp is 50 degree? It would seem the vessel (keg) would suck more heat out and cause longer heating times.

I am only asking cause I am a weldor. I know nothing of this. My TIG torch heats things up REAL fast.
 
Maybe you can save alittle by wattage by seperating the strike water volume from the sparge water volume. Just a thought.

My HLT and BK are basically identical. I know I probably don't need a 5500 watt ULD element in the HLT, but this way I can use either vessel for either function.

Also, the next sort of logical step down would be a 30a supply and that wouldn't get it in a single cord.

Ed
 
So, is that linear?

What I mean is, will it still raise 100 degrees in about 30 mins if the starting temp is 50 degree? It would seem the vessel (keg) would suck more heat out and cause longer heating times.

I am only asking cause I am a weldor. I know nothing of this. My TIG torch heats things up REAL fast.

You are correct... Ambient temperature, wind, insulation and other variables all will play into the time it takes to heat. In reality, I think the 30 minute time is pretty much in a perfect environment.

Ed
 
You are correct... Ambient temperature, wind, insulation and other variables all will play into the time it takes to heat. In reality, I think the 30 minute time is pretty much in a perfect environment.

Ed


Thank you.:mug:

Too much math for me. I need a mouth guard to do that stuff.
 
Here are some tips just from reading through.

I would be afraid of using the 50A breaker if you are going to have more than one element on at a time. I am personally using 2 30A 240 GFCI breakers so that each element is on it's own circuit. You mentioned 3 pole selector switch, and yes those are important but you will need a contactor or power relay behind it. If you look at my build thread, you will see that I have 2 open power relays (one for each heater) and numerous controls that "pull in the contacts" to power the elements.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-build-budget-but-still-pretty-advanced-154390/

I have made extensive use of terminal blocks, relays, buttons etc... to achieve the results that I want (Ie heater 1 on, pump 2 on; rims on pump 1 on; etc...) You will want to look into a temp controller of some sort, or a PLC as you mentioned to control the elements. I only have one controller at the moment as they are $$$ but two are in the plans. If you can afford to get two, or buy a cheaper component then that will be even better as you can control your RIMS and your HLT.

Back to the electrical side of things, I know that you only want one cord, but I am not sure if it is really worth it. 60A plugs are outrageously expensive, and you are going to have to fuse out each element and create 30A branch circuits in the panel anyhow. That means a larger panel and again more $$.

Currently I have a pile of terminal blocks, some din rail, some push buttons and a few other things that I can give you if you want. Take a look at my build and see if you want something like that. If you do, then I can certainly help you along and get you the things that you need at distributor cost or below. You would just have to pay for shipping as they would kill me if I gave things away then shipped it for free.
 
I put the 60 amp seimens gfi right into a 100 amp seimens breaker panel. From that breaker I ran 6/3 copper plus ground to a 60 amp outlet. It will provide plenty of power for 2 5500 watt elements plus a good bit of 120v stuff (nothing high amperage, just 2 pumps, bcs, and a couple contactors).

Any issues with the 240VAC GFCI breaker tripping when current flows in the neutral of the 120VAC circuits? I would think that it would see neutral current as a fault since the 240VAC only wants to see current in the two hot legs.
 
Not too shabby for a first cut.
  • First, I would advise against running high current for a switch. The biggest reason is high current switches are $$$. Use some low current switches, like those from automationdirect.com to drive a coil on a contactor. Auber has some in expensive 40 amp ones. Use the contacts on the contactor to carry the load. You will need one for Hand and one for Auto on each one. As well as two for the large element selector.
  • For the auto control some say a DSSR is required to switch both legs. In this situation I agree. Run both legs through a DSSR for the 240v element auto control.
  • Likewise, run both of the Hand power legs through both contacts of the Hand contactor.
  • For small loads, like the pumps you can use small mechanical relays.
  • E-STOP is recommended.

To save a little cash and room you can ommit the element selector contactors by gating control power through the switch.

Here is a general explanation of switches with contact blocks.

There are 2 Main categories of switches, Push Buttons and Selectors.
Push Buttons
Are exactly what the name implies, you push the button to actuate it.
Push Buttons are divided into 2 main modes of actuation.
Momentary - Push the button down the button turns on, remove your finger and the button returns to off.
Push On/Push Off - Push the button down and it turns on, push it again it turns off.

Selector Switches
Selector switches are multi position switches, typically 2 or 3 positions. There are two different main modes of actuation for selectors as well.
Return To - Return to means the switch will return to a standard position when released. Two position switches either Return To Right (RTR) or Return To Left (RTL). Three position switches are usually Return To Center (RTC)
Maintained - A selector switch with a maintain function will stay in the position they were last placed.

Switch Actuation
A panel switch itself does not control electricity, it is a mechanical device. When a push button is in the 'on' position a piece of plastic protrudes from the bottom, when the switch is in the off position it retracts. Two position selector have one mechanical actuator as well. When the switch is in one position the actuator sticks out and retracts in the other position. Three position selectors have two actuators, one for the left hand position, the other for the right hand switch position. When a three position switch is in the center, bother actuators are retracted.

Contact Blocks
The actuators on a switch interact with contact blocks that are attached to the back of the switch with screws. Each contact block has 2 wire terminals, one on each side of the contact. There are 2 types of contacts blocks
Normally Open (NO) - When the actuator is retracted the contact in the block is open, not allowing electricity to flow. When the switch actuator is extended it causes the contact block to close allowing electricity to pass.
Normally Closed (NC) - These work directly opposite of a NO contact. When the actuator is retracted, the contact is closed allowing current to pass. When the actuator extends it causes the contact to open, prohibiting the flow of current.

Contact blocks are stackable! you can screw another contact block on top of another of any variety. The contact blocks have their own spring loaded actuator to pass on the position of the switch actuator below it. This allows for control of multiple circuits using the same switch.

How do you tell if a three position switch is in the center position? Easy! Put two NC contact blocks on both sides of the switch and wire them in series (In one, connect the other side to the other block, and out the second block). When the switch is in the center position both actuators are retracted closing both NC contacts allowing current to pass.

So, starting with the element selector switch. Use a 2 position maintained selector. Install two NO blocks and two NC blocks. Connect 1 NO and 1 NC to your 110v for relay control and connect 1 NO and 1 NC to the PID output. You can run one wire for each and use a jumper to connect the 110 and PID out to the second blocks.

For element 1 you will install 2 NO blocks, one on each side of a three position maintained selector. On the Hand (Manual On) block connect one side to the NC contact on the selector switch with 110 on it. then run the other side to the coil of your Hand contactor. Next run a wire from the other NC contact on the element selector switch connected to the PID output to the Auto NO contact of the element 1 switch. Then run the other side to the control signal to the DSSR.

For element 2 you will install 2 NO blocks, one on each side of a three position maintained selector. On the Hand (Manual On) block connect one side to the NO contact on the element selector switch with 110 on it. then run the other side to the coil of your Hand contactor. Next run a wire from the other NO contact on the element selector switch connected to the PID output to the Auto NO contact of the element 1 switch. Then run the other side to the control signal to the DSSR.

When implementing an E-Stop button, you put it in front of ALL of the other control buttons and switches. So if the E-stop is pressed, there is no power provided to any of the switches, which means they cannot turn on their corresponding relays, SSRs, and contactors. The end result is everything turns off! E-stops fall into the push button category btw, but they are usually a push on/pull off OR push on/twist off.

Wow.. wasn't expecting this to turn into a dissertation :p Sorry
 
Any issues with the 240VAC GFCI breaker tripping when current flows in the neutral of the 120VAC circuits? I would think that it would see neutral current as a fault since the 240VAC only wants to see current in the two hot legs.

Most gfci breakers also monitor the neutral so you can split the legs into 110VAC circuits. Appliances like hot tubs require both 240 and 110 so instead of using 2 circuits they made a gfci smart enough to monitor current between all 3.
 
Here are some tips just from reading through.

I would be afraid of using the 50A breaker if you are going to have more than one element on at a time. I am personally using 2 30A 240 GFCI breakers so that each element is on it's own circuit. You mentioned 3 pole selector switch, and yes those are important but you will need a contactor or power relay behind it. If you look at my build thread, you will see that I have 2 open power relays (one for each heater) and numerous controls that "pull in the contacts" to power the elements.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-build-budget-but-still-pretty-advanced-154390/

I have made extensive use of terminal blocks, relays, buttons etc... to achieve the results that I want (Ie heater 1 on, pump 2 on; rims on pump 1 on; etc...) You will want to look into a temp controller of some sort, or a PLC as you mentioned to control the elements. I only have one controller at the moment as they are $$$ but two are in the plans. If you can afford to get two, or buy a cheaper component then that will be even better as you can control your RIMS and your HLT.

Back to the electrical side of things, I know that you only want one cord, but I am not sure if it is really worth it. 60A plugs are outrageously expensive, and you are going to have to fuse out each element and create 30A branch circuits in the panel anyhow. That means a larger panel and again more $$.

Currently I have a pile of terminal blocks, some din rail, some push buttons and a few other things that I can give you if you want. Take a look at my build and see if you want something like that. If you do, then I can certainly help you along and get you the things that you need at distributor cost or below. You would just have to pay for shipping as they would kill me if I gave things away then shipped it for free.

Thanks! I will take a close look at your build. Do you have a drawing?

In the drawing, I have a single pole double throw switch in front of the selectors for the 5500 watt elements meaning only one will be active at a time. So, I can run both pumps, the 1500 watt RIMs heater and EITHER the HLT or BK. I should be well under 50 amps. Originally I wanted it all... then saw pricing on 60amp gear and choked.

I have a PID I've used with my RIMS heater and just got a BCS-460 which looks very promising. I'm just wanting to make sure it's the right thing before I build around it.

Ed
 
Great post CodeRage, it is like a mini lesson on industrial controls.

I will have to disagree with the SSR though. It seems everyone on here is quick to run to them, and I have two of them in my panel for my pumps (just as a space issue as the yare 1/4" thick and mount on din rail). I still have to give it up to the larger bulkier NEMA components like the open style power relay. It is right around the same price, even cheaper sometimes, does not need a heat sink, and will last 10x as long with constant switching. Even if it breaks, you can typically repair the broken contact or replace the coil.

Either way he decides to go, you still win in this thread with an awsome post for anyone that is trying real hard to figure out what all of the buttons and switches actually do!
 
Not too shabby for a first cut.


Wow.. wasn't expecting this to turn into a dissertation :p Sorry

WOW... THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE!!! It will take me a bit of time to read through and I'm sure even more to understand:cross:

I actually have AutomationDirect and digikey catalogs (I requested them when I started down this path) and the switches confuse the bejesus out of me. I know I need contactors or relays, but the lists just go on and on... I will read through the responses and try again to get my head around it.

Ed
 
Any issues with the 240VAC GFCI breaker tripping when current flows in the neutral of the 120VAC circuits? I would think that it would see neutral current as a fault since the 240VAC only wants to see current in the two hot legs.

The GFCI I have is labeled 120/240... should be no problem.

Ed
 
WOW... THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE!!! It will take me a bit of time to read through and I'm sure even more to understand:cross:

I actually have AutomationDirect and digikey catalogs (I requested them when I started down this path) and the switches confuse the bejesus out of me. I know I need contactors or relays, but the lists just go on and on... I will read through the responses and try again to get my head around it.

Ed

Yeah, I almost did a drawing for you but thought. "You can give a man a beer, or teach him how to brew...." :D
 
Alright, you guys gave me a ton of input to think about. I'm gonna try to eat this elephant one bite at a time... So here goes.

Let's start with the output relays:

I understand the benefit of the DSSR recommendation. The only ones I have seen seem to be very expensive. Can I use 2 separate SSR's? Or do you have a source for less pricey DSSRs?

I understand I can use mechanical relays for the pumps. The reason I thought of SSRs is because they appear to have a wide range for control voltage 3-32vdc.
Keep in mind I am not 100% sure what I will use for control (BCS460, Brewtroller, or PID)
I know the BCS460 output is 5vdc (300mA max for all outputs), and it appears the Brewtroller and PIDs output is 12vdc.
So, can I get a mechanical relay that I can switch with 5-12vdc? Any specific brand/model?

That's a start for now... any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ed
 
Alright, you guys gave me a ton of input to think about. I'm gonna try to eat this elephant one bite at a time... So here goes.

Let's start with the output relays:

I understand the benefit of the DSSR recommendation. The only ones I have seen seem to be very expensive. Can I use 2 separate SSR's? Or do you have a source for less pricey DSSRs?

I understand I can use mechanical relays for the pumps. The reason I thought of SSRs is because they appear to have a wide range for control voltage 3-32vdc.
Keep in mind I am not 100% sure what I will use for control (BCS460, Brewtroller, or PID)
I know the BCS460 output is 5vdc (300mA max for all outputs), and it appears the Brewtroller and PIDs output is 12vdc.
So, can I get a mechanical relay that I can switch with 5-12vdc? Any specific brand/model?

That's a start for now... any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ed

Yes, you can get relays with a coil voltage of 12VDC. search digikey for relay, then drill down to what you want.

I think the cheapest place to buy SSRs is ebay. That is where I bought my DSSRs.
 
Yes, you can get relays with a coil voltage of 12VDC. search digikey for relay, then drill down to what you want.

I think the cheapest place to buy SSRs is ebay. That is where I bought my DSSRs.


Any specific links?

I'm not being lazy... I just don't know what I am looking at.

I went to digikey and looked for a 5vdc coil relay and got almost 1000 hits.
I went to ebay and found nothing under dssr, and nothing under dual ssr.

Thanks for any direction you can offer.

Ed
 
I have a couple of 40 amp SSRs with heat sinks coming from Hong Kong. I'm not really confident of Chinese goods, so I over rated them 100% in anticipation of substandard quality. I'll let you know what I wind up getting.
 
Any specific links?

I'm not being lazy... I just don't know what I am looking at.

I went to digikey and looked for a 5vdc coil relay and got almost 1000 hits.
I went to ebay and found nothing under dssr, and nothing under dual ssr.

Thanks for any direction you can offer.

Ed

Here is a "sold state relay" search on ebay.

I didn't see any duals on there either, but I did buy mine on there (Crydom D2425D)

Digikey didn't stock what you are looking for. Try here at mouser. That is a nice panel-mount relay that will work for you (I think). $2.50.
 
Hey Ed, I missed your post some how. I'm having a hard time finding the too. Here is a spec sheet for one to prove that they use to exist any how :)
http://documents.tycoelectronics.co...rtrv&DocNm=1308242_SSRD&DocType=DS&DocLang=EN

If you can't find an SSRD then you can just pair up to SSRs on the same control line. No biggie.

Thanks for the input.

Yea... I know they are out there. They just appear to be pricey. The dssr's I have seen appear to be $50+. I guess one advantage over doubling up sss's is fewer heat sinks.

I'm struggling with how to configure an element to be controlled by a 3 way selector switch that is not high current. I've been looking for a picture/drawing but not having a whole lot of luck.

Also... any specific ideas on a mechanical relay I can use with 5vdc?
Would you suggest panel mount or using some kind of socket?

Since I have a bcs460 and it's output voltage is 5vdc... does it make sense to use 5vdc for control through out the whole panel? Should I be looking for a 5vdc power supply for relay coils etc (or is another voltage more common and therefore more readily available?)

Dang, I have a lot of questions... The lists just seem to go on and on...


Ed
 
Thanks for the input.

Yea... I know they are out there. They just appear to be pricey. The dssr's I have seen appear to be $50+. I guess one advantage over doubling up sss's is fewer heat sinks.

I'm struggling with how to configure an element to be controlled by a 3 way selector switch that is not high current. I've been looking for a picture/drawing but not having a whole lot of luck.

Also... any specific ideas on a mechanical relay I can use with 5vdc?
Would you suggest panel mount or using some kind of socket?

Since I have a bcs460 and it's output voltage is 5vdc... does it make sense to use 5vdc for control through out the whole panel? Should I be looking for a 5vdc power supply for relay coils etc (or is another voltage more common and therefore more readily available?)

Dang, I have a lot of questions... The lists just seem to go on and on...


Ed

5vdc relays aren't cheap, mechanicals any ways. Thats why I wish the BCS outputs were at least 12VDC. Or worst case an open drain output...

Regardless, I found these guys on ebay super cheap. I'd snatch them up for the outputs that don't need an SSR.
http://cgi.ebay.com/SMALL-CRYDOM-SS...ultDomain_0?hash=item53dc1a9aed#ht_646wt_1165

Then use one of those to drive an auber contactor for the high current stuff. They can drive a march pump on their own.

If you are still having trouble figuring it out I'll draw yah up something this weekend. Can you point me to some kind of interface schematic to the BCS?
 
Back
Top