noodles44x2
Active Member
I'll take 2 unless they are spoken for.
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Contactors for e-brew heating elements.
- Thread starter zeus53219
- Start date
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
I am picking up 40 more of these this weekend, so the guys that are on the list I'm hoping to have them all shipped on Monday. For those of you that didn't make the list, there will be a dozen or so that are not spoken for. Send me a PM with the quantity needed.
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
I will be receiving about 20 more of these on Saturday, March 24th. For those of you that sent out payments already, they will be shipped on Monday, and for anyone that wants any send a PM. This will be the last batch I will be able to get for sometime.
jonbutler
Active Member
Do you have any more left or are they all spoken for if you do ill take 3 shipped to 90034 just pm me with payment info
ironmountainbrew
Active Member
I'll take 3.
psbuckland
Well-Known Member
I'll take 2
TriangleIL
Well-Known Member
Will any of the new ones be the 24V variety?
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
I have 9 24v contactors left.
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
Nice work! Looks great!
Zeus,
Here's a picture of the ones I bought from you. BTW - they work great!
Not the best pic, but you'll notice that the first one on the left is activated.
Paul
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
UPDATE:
There are more of you inquiring about several C30 contactors, so I went down to the local company to see if I could obtain anymore. The service dept stated they wont have any available for several months, but are in the process of disassembling a couple of prototype panels and will have 100-C23-D10 and 100-C23-D01 for purchase tomorrow. These are rated for RESISTIVE CURRENT 32 AMPS, they are 3 pole, 110v coil, and have a bonus auxiliary contact. The 100-C23-D10 has a normally open contact and the 100-C23-D01 has a normally closed contact. These would be perfect for use with a 5500w or less heating element. For those of you that purchased C30's, they will ship on Monday. If you want to swap out C30's for a C23's let me know before then. The C23's are the same price. I picked up 10 of these for now, but if I get an increased interest in these I can get more. http://www.1sourcedist.com/woe/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=288
There are more of you inquiring about several C30 contactors, so I went down to the local company to see if I could obtain anymore. The service dept stated they wont have any available for several months, but are in the process of disassembling a couple of prototype panels and will have 100-C23-D10 and 100-C23-D01 for purchase tomorrow. These are rated for RESISTIVE CURRENT 32 AMPS, they are 3 pole, 110v coil, and have a bonus auxiliary contact. The 100-C23-D10 has a normally open contact and the 100-C23-D01 has a normally closed contact. These would be perfect for use with a 5500w or less heating element. For those of you that purchased C30's, they will ship on Monday. If you want to swap out C30's for a C23's let me know before then. The C23's are the same price. I picked up 10 of these for now, but if I get an increased interest in these I can get more. http://www.1sourcedist.com/woe/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=288
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
Glad they worked out for your build. Send pics when your finished.
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
Paul,
Looking at the pics, what are you using to latch your main power? Are you plugging in hot? If so I have a C43 with power switch that would work sweet with this set-up.
Paul
Looking at the pics, what are you using to latch your main power? Are you plugging in hot? If so I have a C43 with power switch that would work sweet with this set-up.
Paul
Paul,
Here are some pics of the panel I built with the contactors I got from you.
Front
Inside. Contactors on the bottom.
Thanks for the parts!
Paul Murphy
Forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask, but still don't understand what contactors are for. I know you said they pull a coil when you flip a switch, but why cant you just use a 240V rated toggle switch and bypass the contactor? I am looking to make a simple 240V system and I don't want to miss a good deal before they are all gone because of my arrogance!
EDIT: I have been trying to read up on the use of these and it seems like it is a safety measure which would allow you to physically disconnect both hot lines from the element as opposed to a simple switch which would only disconnect 1 hot line leaving 1 hot line on the element. However one could get a 2 pole (if that is correct) switch that would disconnect both lines correct?
EDIT: I have been trying to read up on the use of these and it seems like it is a safety measure which would allow you to physically disconnect both hot lines from the element as opposed to a simple switch which would only disconnect 1 hot line leaving 1 hot line on the element. However one could get a 2 pole (if that is correct) switch that would disconnect both lines correct?
Disclaimer: I'm a novice at this. A contactor is like a relay, except designed for higher current ratings. That is, it is an electrically controlled switch. The idea is that you have a circuit with a much lower power level that you use to control a much higher switched circuit. So, for this application (your brewery), the switch on your control panel THAT YOU TOUCH will be the lower power one and it is ued to switch (via the contractor) the higher amperage 240vAC circuit. Quite simply, it is a safety device, but not only for the reason you stated above.
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
Well put.
danbass
Well-Known Member
I've got 5 from Zeus and I can't speak highly enough about him. I use one for a 50 amp main, and then I have two that I use to switch my RIMS and my BK elements from 110 to 220.
TravelingBrewer22
Well-Known Member
I'd like some but I'm not sure how many. I'm going to be running a bk and holt with 5500w 240v element in each and. rims tube with a 1500w 120v element. can u pm me with suggestions and payment info? thx
Just ordered one 43 and two 30's. Paul was very helpful piecing together my system. I may go with a 65A system to run two 5500w elements while also running my brewtroller and two chugger pumps. My build thread will be updated when it all comes together. Thanks again Paul.
I haven't done a build yet (Paul's contractors look good sitting on the shelf). I am planning on doing 1 for each element, plus one for the input main. A C30 will work for each 5500w 240vAC, if you are planning larger than a 30AMP concurrent draw, you would need something higher capacity on the main. Dunno on the 1500w/120vAC, should be able to find 15 AMP 120vac relays pretty cheap?
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zeus53219
Well-Known Member
Sorry guys if I didnt reply to some of your PMs today, got busy at work. I will reply soon. But for now here are some of the pics I promised. Still not 100% complete on the move from the garage to the basement, but doing the 3rd indoor batch tomorrow.
danbass
Well-Known Member
Alright, I don't have much time to draw out a wiring diagram this evening, but I'll do my best to describe what I wired up.
First, they are both 110v coils. So I have an On/Off/On switch for each pair. Left on sends power to the left contactor (110v) and right on sends it to the right contactor (220v).
On the input side, I'm only using two of the three contact points. On the two 110v contactors, I bring in and jumper across the neutral for input 2. On the two 220v contactors, I bring in the second hot and jumper across on input 2.
I bring in the other hot from an SSR to input 1 (jumpered across the input sides). The circuit is closed only when the SSR is on, either on the 110v or 220v side.
On the output side I jumper outputs 1 & 2, send to the outlet, and run the ground directly to my post.
Actually, here's the image.
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