odi3's simple 30a eBIAB build

This thread is to help me plan and build a new simple electric 30a ebiab build. Since I live in Canada, I would like to get the parts all figured out before I order them to minimize trips across the border and duty fees.
Thanks to all the other ebiab builders that have documented their threads in the past and P-J for the highly detailed electrical diagrams.

Design:
I am looking to start off as simple as possible, without pumps or a basket. I am also wanting it to be portable since I will be brewing at both my home and cottage.

1x portable spa panel GFCI with long 10/4 extension.
1x control box exactly the same as johnodon's(Thanks Johnodon!) with an added temp alarm and off switch
1x mega pot with welded 5500w element, 1/2' dump valve, and temp probe
1x 50 ft Copper Immersion Chiller

Link to P-J's control panel wiring schematic designed for Johonodon that I plan to use:
Diagram

Link to P-J's 30a Spa Panel wiring schematic
Diagram

Link to my parts list:
Parts List

I will update the list with every bolt, nut and screw I use, along with the source and cost.

If anyone has any advice on my build, a better place to get the parts, parts that I am missing or just recommendations on how not to zap myself, it is greatly Appreciated!

Here's a pic of the plug for the dryer outlet I plan to use: 30a 4prong
Plug

Questions:
Does the length of the Temp Probe matter? Should I use a longer one for better accuracy? or a shorter to prevent catching my BIAB Bag?

Would it be reasonable to not have a Emergency off button since I will have a spa panel with the "test" gfci button and breaker switch sitting right next to the control panel?

I want to add a camlock fitting to the ball valve. Which camlock type would i use? A, B, C, D,E, F? Whats the difference between these?

ODI3 said:

Questions:
Does the length of the Temp Probe matter? Should I use a longer one for better accuracy? or a shorter to prevent catching my BIAB Bag?

Would it be reasonable to not have a Emergency off button since I will have a spa panel with the "test" gfci button and breaker switch sitting right next to the control panel?

I want to add a camlock fitting to the ball valve. Which camlock type would i use? A, B, C, D,E, F? Whats the difference between these?

Click to expand...

The length of the probe does matter to an extent. If you get it too close to the element, it will read higher than the surrounding temp. If it's too long you risk bending it with the bag unless you plan on using a false bottom. With that being said, with a 5500W element, you're going to need to keep the mash water stirred as it comes up to temp otherwise you'll quickly overshoot your mash in temp due to stratification. A pump circulating the water will prevent this. Overshooting the temp by 10 deg F or more sucks because 7+ gallons of water doesn't cool down quickly.

If you''re using the std. female thd. ball valve an F camlock fitting will thread into the valve. Check out www.brewhardware.com, Bobby has pics of the fittings & their corresponding letter designation.

As for the E-stop, for a couple of bucks for the switch and pennies for the resistors, I'd install it.

Thanks for the feedback! I will check out Bobby's info on the camlocks.
My difficulty with the e-stop was that if id have enough room in the box for it. If not I will need a bigger box.

Edit: Bobby's pic is simple and straightforward. Thanks for the link!

What do you guys think of me using the RHEEM SP10869QL 6000w 240v Stainless Steel Element?

The element length is 19.27 in (Flange to Tip) vs the 21" pot diameter of my 25 gal mega pot, Do you think this would fit using a welded 1/2' coupling, or would it be too tight?

Would my 30 amp power be able to handle the control box, pump and 6000w element?

The benefits of this element is that it is Stainless, although im not sure if the threading is or not, also the watt density of the rheem is 84 watts per sq inch compared to 125 watt per square in of camco ulwd straight elements and 70 watts per sq in of the ripple ones.

Since I am planning to have my kettle welded, Im hesitant to use a ripple element due to the difficulty of aligning the element and the need to have it higher in the pot so it can screw in. The higher element placement would make 5 gal batches more difficult.



Here is the specs of the element I am considering using:

RHEEM Water Heater Element 240V/6000W 19-1/8" LWD Resistored Stainless Steel SP10869QL

Preferred Parts resistored stainless steel elements feature a low watt density design with an outer sheath of Incology® 800 to resist failure from "dry firing". Built in resistor helps prolong anode life for greater tank protection and longer working life.

Product Technical Specifications
■Watt Density Classification: LWD
■Input Voltage (V): 208
■Input Voltage (V): 240
■Wattage at 208V (W): 4500
■Watt Density at 208V (W/sq. in.): 63
■Wattage at 240V (W): 6000
■Watt Density at 240V (W/sq. in. ): 84
■Cold Resistance (ohms): 9.60
■Outer Sheath Material: Stainless Steel (Incoloy)
■Resistored: Yes
■Configuration: Foldback
■Element Diameter (in.): .316
■Element Length - Flange to Tip (in.): 19.27
■Mounting Type: Threaded
■Actual Thread Size - Outside Diameter (in.): 1-9/32
■Nominal Thread Size - (in.): 1
■Threads per Inch: 11-1/2
■Thread Type Series Designation: NPSM
■Hex Head Size - Across Flats (in.): 1-1/2"

You'll need a 1" coupling, not 1/2" I suspect that was a typo. If you use one of the 1" spuds that Bobby_M sells, you'll gain a little on the length because the element flange will be around 20mm from the side of the kettle. If you use a coupling, same thing, you could even tweak it a little by moving the coupling in or out. My ripple element ends up directly above my drain, no issues, as long as you have a little of space, you'll be fine.

I'm not an electrician, I generally use the 20% rule calculating load, have 20% capability above your max load. 6000W/240V gives you 25A, 20% is another 5A so you're right on the hairy edge. PID's draw very little, as do most contactors, and related support components. 40A service would be better. If the supply breaker for your dryer is weak, it might trip prematurely and require replacement, keep that in mind. You might check your supply voltage and see what it really is, if it's lower than 240V, you'll have less current draw and a little more margin.

Can't speculate on the watt density of the element. There are folks who use standard elements in their kettles, so I'd say you'll likely be fine especially if your line voltage is lower.