Massive $6,000 commercial cooler... for FREE

Yes boys this could be the greatest CL score ever... if I can get it running of course. :cross:

Found a CL ad listing a commercial six 1/2 door freezer/cooler for FREE. Only problem was that it didn't work. The guy worked for a bar in downtown Chicago and said the thing just stopped working, he didn't know the details, and he didn't care. He just wanted the thing gone since they had already bought a replacement. I knew compressors for these things could be $800 but it was still worth my time. Even if I couldn't fix it I figured I could use it for storage or remove the stainless steel to be re-purposed. I called right away and he said he'd call back with the make and model but then went dark for 2 weeks. I figured a scrapper had offered him cash but no, he had just been busy. A trip to downtown Chicago with my truck and trailer, a pissed off "differently abled" person, and a bar full of confused patrons later... I get it back home and assess the situation.



This thing is BIG!!! About 76x32x80, 60+ cubic feet of storage, and over 600lbs. It wouldn't even go through the (non-standard) door to my bunker so we had to take off the casters, push it in, jack it up onto two kegs, and reinstall the casters. I am glad SWMBO did not see us idiots underneath that monster. I was told it was a freezer and cooler which in my head = fermentation chamber and kegerator/cooler. Alas, it was not a dual temp unit but simply a refrigerator... the two left doors being a single space and the right four doors being another. I still think it could be rigged to allow for dual temps but first things first...



It's a Delfield/Atco 6076-S which is a 120V unit (surprisingly) with a 20A plug. It looks as if the fancy digital controller has been bypassed and a dial thermostat wired in its place. I'm guessing the controller fried and they just didn't want to spring for a new one. Good thing I have a LOVE controller that could be installed to bring it back from analog hell. When I turned the thermostat down the fans and compressor kicked on, the everything sounded fine... no awful grinding noises or anything so I put my digital thermometer inside and let it run for a couple hours. Ambient temperature at the time was about 45 degrees and when I came back the temp inside the cooler was almost 60. Now I'm no HVAC expert but I believe a system with no refrigerant would do just that. Heat as opposed to cool.



There's also a sight glass on the line leading from the base of the compressor to the evaporator above the cooler bays. The color is purple which correlates to dry but I'm unsure whether this is for showing refrigerant or moisture in the lines. I'm hoping the problem is simply no refrigerant or a leak in the lines somewhere but wanted to see what you guys thought. I found a trustworthy guy in the area that services commercial units like this but money is tight and I'd rather do whatever I can before he makes his $150 service call. Is there a way I can do a leakdown test myself? I'm praying it can be fixed for cheap and then converted into the MOTHER of all kegerator/fementation units.

I can't help you, but still want to bow in reverence. Good luck and keep us updated.

Damonic said:

I found a trustworthy guy in the area that services commercial units like this but money is tight and I'd rather do whatever I can before he makes his $150 service call.

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Pay him the $150.00. Keep him filled with your homebrew and you will not be disappointed. A good repair tech IS worth keeping around.

The initial cost is insurance against you destroying the unit before he has a chance to get you up and running.

thataintchicken said:

Pay him the $150.00. Keep him filled with your homebrew and you will not be disappointed. A good repair tech IS worth keeping around.

The initial cost is insurance against you destroying the unit before he has a chance to get you up and running.

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I second this.

Furthermore, once you describe what your purpose in running this thing is he may be more interested in the project. It's always good to have a mechanical expert who has a personal interest in your projects.

After all, you'd be hard pressed to get the guy to 'keep his eye out' for spare used door seals or other parts for your regular fridge unit but he might think of your monster beer fridge when he sees a unit hitting the scrapper.

wow what a score...I am intrigued..

I would just get the guy to come out as well.

thataintchicken said:

Pay him the $150.00. Keep him filled with your homebrew and you will not be disappointed. A good repair tech IS worth keeping around.

The initial cost is insurance against you destroying the unit before he has a chance to get you up and running.

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since it seems that you don't know anyone who does this kind of work this is your best option. its awfully hard to diagnose mechanical/hands on type things over the phone or net, so much can be just a loose wire or a blown thermostat that it would definitely pay to have him come look.


now just because i do have a friend who works on that type of shiit, list the make/model/and other shiit for me an i'll talk to him this weekend

I work a little bit with refrigeration systems and I'm no means an expert. Looking at the sight glass it looks like there is no freon in the system. Look at the sight glass when the compressor fires, and if you see "bubbles" the freon is low in the system and will need a charge. Refrigerant in the sight glass usually will have a slight "reddish" tint to it. Hope that helps.

As someone that works on aircraft A/C systems, I third getting a qualified tech out. The sight glass is THE way to determine the condition of the refrigerant. If it is reading dry, I would not run the unit.
It is possible to get a unit cold with very little refrigerant and nothing inside. What is happening is the air in the refrigerant lines is compressing and expanding enough to cool the inside. If you had a greater load, such as food or kegs in there, it would not work. However, this is just conjecture based on what you have said and what I know. A tech needs to look at your unit. But universally true is that the refrigerant is what carries the lubricant through the system, so if you are running it dry, you are dooming your compressor to failure.

Get the tech out & fill him with brew.

Heck, you may even be able to CL advertise for a tech in exchange for parts cost & brew. I would advertise it as:

"Home Brewer Needs Refrigerator Tech: Will pay for parts and exchange home brew for labor."

MikeinAK said:

I work a little bit with refrigeration systems and I'm no means an expert. Looking at the sight glass it looks like there is no freon in the system. Look at the sight glass when the compressor fires, and if you see "bubbles" the freon is low in the system and will need a charge. Refrigerant in the sight glass usually will have a slight "reddish" tint to it. Hope that helps.

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I was just about to say you might just need some freon. Nice score man! :rockin:

maztec said:

Get the tech out & fill him with brew.

Heck, you may even be able to CL advertise for a tech in exchange for parts cost & brew. I would advertise it as:

"Home Brewer Needs Refrigerator Tech: Will pay for parts and exchange home brew for labor."

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I like this approach.:rockin:

Even if you can't get it working, you could put a small fridge without a door inside that sucker!

The sight glass is an indicator of moisture in the system, not refrigerant. Dry is a good thing. Wet would mean moisture and that can lead to alot of problems. Look for a schrader vavle (Like on a bicycle tire) and see if it has any pressure inside. Don't let too much out. I'm sure this thing has an evaporator fan inside, so check that if you already haven't. If you can post a wiring diagram and you have a meter I can help somewhat. Good luck, that thing is nice.

wow if you pull this off... I would have to say that BYO or Zymurgy should feature your score in their next issue...

U are so lucky that swmbo allowed you to do this...

Great Score!!!

During the brief time you had it plugged in, did you feel the compressor lines? If one was cold/cool and the other hot/warm the compressor is likely functional and it needs some freon and perhaps a leak fixed. That type of repair can likely be made in exchange for beer.

I'm so subscribing to this...

ohiobrewtus said:

I'm so subscribing to this...

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Me too.

I'm envisioning a freezer full of glycol (or antifreeze) next to this thing running cold/hot water jackets around fermenters and kegs to control the temp of everything individually.

But, then again, my SWMBO would have already left with the dog if I had brought that thing home.

Laughing_Gnome_Invisible said:

Even if you can't get it working, you could put a small fridge without a door inside that sucker!

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Except you need some sort of way to get the heat from the compressor out of the cooling area.

This thing looks freakin awesome. I say do all that you can with the resources you have but make sure you don't make it worse. When all else fails.... call the tech.

mmb said:

Except you need some sort of way to get the heat from the compressor out of the cooling area.

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Oh yeah. Another half assed idea of mine bites the dust.......Love will find a way though. I doubt that Damonic understands yet how much pressure there will be now from all of us to make this baby work.

Here I go, living vicariously again.

Laughing_Gnome_Invisible said:

Here I go, living vicariously again.

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Yup. The life of a peeping tom is hard.

I made a similar score a while back. I also recommend getting a tech out, it may be cheaper in the long run.

By trouble shooting my score I was able to determine that the compressor was destroyed on mine (drawing 45A, tripping the thermal protector and the circuit breaker)

I was able to pick up a condenser skid off of eBay for $150 that also accepted R134a. This worked out great because the unit was originally a freezer and I wanted a fridge. I replaced the skid, pulled a vacuum, weighed in some R134a and it's been keeping beer (and food for that matter) cold for about 2 1/2 years now. I can keep 18 cornies and 5 cases of beer in it

Derrin said:

I can keep 18 cornies and 5 cases of beer in it

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I am so envious

kornkob said:

I second this.

Furthermore, once you describe what your purpose in running this thing is he may be more interested in the project. It's always good to have a mechanical expert who has a personal interest in your projects.

After all, you'd be hard pressed to get the guy to 'keep his eye out' for spare used door seals or other parts for your regular fridge unit but he might think of your monster beer fridge when he sees a unit hitting the scrapper.

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Excellent points. On my first call the tech kept asking what bar/restaurant/business this was for and I kept explaining that is was for personal use... on my hobby farm, in a bunker/bar/brewery. He couldn't seem to wrap his head around it but once he got it he was immediately intrigued. I was also told he's a good Christian man who does honest work so I know he'll be fair, I just don't know if he drinks. But there's plenty of naughty Christians that still drink (like me) so there's hope yet for an exchange of goods for services.

eriktlupus said:

...now just because i do have a friend who works on that type of shiit, list the make/model/and other shiit for me an i'll talk to him this weekend

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It's a Delfield/Atco 6076-S but a discontinued unit.

p-nut said:

The sight glass is an indicator of moisture in the system, not refrigerant. Dry is a good thing. Wet would mean moisture and that can lead to alot of problems. Look for a schrader vavle (Like on a bicycle tire) and see if it has any pressure inside. Don't let too much out. I'm sure this thing has an evaporator fan inside, so check that if you already haven't. If you can post a wiring diagram and you have a meter I can help somewhat. Good luck, that thing is nice.

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The service manual for the 6000 series can be found here. I'm very handy with wiring and my multimeter gets plenty of use so if you think you can talk me through, let's get crackin'. Everything seems to be fine electrically though, I think the problem is isolated to the refrigeration system. There's a blower for the evaporator but I haven't pulled the shroud yet. I'll do that today and look for the schrader valve as well.

Baldy_Beer_Brewery said:

During the brief time you had it plugged in, did you feel the compressor lines? If one was cold/cool and the other hot/warm the compressor is likely functional and it needs some freon and perhaps a leak fixed. That type of repair can likely be made in exchange for beer.

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I did check the lines and as you said, one side was cool and the other hot. I too figured this meant the compressor was functioning properly.

Laughing_Gnome_Invisible said:

Oh yeah. Another half assed idea of mine bites the dust.......Love will find a way though. I doubt that Damonic understands yet how much pressure there will be now from all of us to make this baby work.
Here I go, living vicariously again.

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Oh trust me, I understand and that's EXACTLY why I gathered my info and photos and then posted on HBT. I'm counting on you guys for the advice and motivation to make this work. I'm a new brewer (~10 extract batches) and I troll a lot more than I post but have found the information on HBT to be a HUGE help. And the "characters" on here are pretty amusing as well.

Overall it sounds like having the tech come out is probably the safest route. Normally I wouldn't think twice about a $150 service call but being out of work for 3+ months has hurt us badly. Bills trump beer and brewing has been put on hold as it is until we can get back on our feet. Still, I'm a resourceful guy... maybe I can sell some cornies or hit the local blood center. I'm an O- universal donor... anybody need some lifeblood?

O.K.,
I don't know you, but now I hate you. But only in the best way. Great score and even if you have to let it sit until you can pay to service/fix it, Leave it alone and salivate. Because when you can get that bad boy going, all will bow when your name is mentioned in bargain/brewing circles. Luck - Dwain

That is like 50% bigger than the 4 door freezer I picked up for free! If it doesn't run, rip all the refrigeration stuff off the top and throw a window air conditioner up there. Do a little creative duct work and override the window units thermostat with a external controller and wa-la it's a fridge again. I'll be able to fit 14 cornies in the bottom of mine (or 16 with a little modification).

So ... How much is this going to increase your monthly electric bill?

maztec said:

So ... How much is this going to increase your monthly electric bill?

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Clearly you do not understand hero worship. Did anyone ever ask Superman about the rent he pays on the fortress of solitude?

Laughing_Gnome_Invisible said:

Clearly you do not understand hero worship. Did anyone ever ask Superman about the rent he pays on the fortress of solitude?

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He was paying rent to Soviet Union for the Arctic.

I was concerned about SWMBO's response to the electric bill when it comes in the first time after that has been running for a month.

Increase would mean relative to the exorbitant amount we already pay! We have a hobby farm so our electricity usage is higher than usual due to mercury vapor lights, multiple outbuildings, etc. This thing is rated at 14 amps so I'm sure it will pull quite a bit of juice. However, using this one unit will allow us to consolidate. We have a spare fridge already, and I had a keezer planned along with an eventual fermentation cabinet. If I can rig this unit for dual zone temps, I can do all of that with one unit which I believe will be more cost effective.

The preceding text was an excerpt of my sales pitch to SWMBO. Please feel free to disseminate and use for whatever purposes you see fit.

Damonic: Okay, that is an awesome sales pitch. Well done!

Damonic said:

Increase would mean relative to the exorbitant amount we already pay! We have a hobby farm so our electricity usage is higher than usual due to mercury vapor lights, multiple outbuildings, etc. This thing is rated at 14 amps so I'm sure it will pull quite a bit of juice. However, using this one unit will allow us to consolidate. We have a spare fridge already, and I had a keezer planned along with an eventual fermentation cabinet. If I can rig this unit for dual zone temps, I can do all of that with one unit which I believe will be more cost effective.

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I'm sure the hero status just took a climb among many here.

maztec said:

So ... How much is this going to increase your monthly electric bill?

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Welp... I know mine costs me about $20-$40 a month depending on SCE's arbitrary overage scale... Just depends on whether I decide the A/C is getting juice first and then the giant fridge or vice versa

Damonic said:

The preceding text was an excerpt of my sales pitch to SWMBO. Please feel free to disseminate and use for whatever purposes you see fit.

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I sold Swmbo on letting me sell the old 2door fridge for a keezer ($150 to upgrade) Because i estimated $100/yr difference in electrical use (That fridge was running almost nonstop)

I did check the lines and as you said, one side was cool and the other hot. I too figured this meant the compressor was functioning properly.

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This is a good sign. Check the evaporator fan before you call somebody. If that thing is not running, there is no way it will cool. The fact that it could build head pressure and the sight glass shows no moisture is promising.

My freebee was a True two door bottle cooler. A customer gave it to me. It was missing a door so I added the wooden collar and top. I looked at the condensor coil and it was shinny and new. Nobody had even used this thing.

Argh, that is an amazing find!

I can't wait to see it up and running

Arkador said:

I sold Swmbo on letting me sell the old 2door fridge for a keezer ($150 to upgrade) Because i estimated $100/yr difference in electrical use (That fridge was running almost nonstop)

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That's a very good point. I switched to a keezer and it cycles maybe three times an hour outside. Compared to the kegerator I had before hand, which had to run almost constantly, I'm saving a good bit on electricity.

So I took the shroud off the evaporator area and here's what we've got...



All in all, it's fairly clean and nothing a careful scrub and some rustoleum couldn't fix. All three fans kick on with no problem. They pull air from the back of the bays, through the evaporator fins, and down into the two vents leading back to the bays. The lines going to the evaporator started to get cool to the touch but that's it. Coils and fins are in decent shape. I can't tell if the wiring is factory or rigged but I would guess the former.

Here's the compressor and lines again shaded to show which got warm and which got cool. Again, I'm no HVAC expert...



I watched the sight glass when the compressor kicked on and didn't see a thing. No liquid, bubbles, or pink elephants. I also looked for a schrader valve and didn't find one. I did find two separate bungs (circled in white). Maybe fill/bleed valves?

I'm getting the cart before the horse I think it totally feasible to make the cooler dual zone. The lefts vent could be rigged with shutters to open or close based on a signal from a LOVE controller. I'd probably need another fan to keep the air in the left bay circulating. The white things are light bulb sockets for each bay and apparently the only source of light. I'd probably just rip those out and install some white LED strips or rope lighting in each bay for illumination. Mounted on the back of the front door face would make for some neat backlighting.

The "bungs" you have circled in white are service ports to where you fit gauges to measure the gas pressure, the one at the front inline with the pipe leading into the compressor is the suction / low pressure side of the system and should be cool. The other one should be lukewarm as it should be filled with high pressure liquid refrigerant which is stored in the the black cylinder (called a receiver) and then feeds down into the evaporator section. In the evaporator section the valve you see with the diaphragm on top is called the expansion valve and controls the amount of liquid refrigerant going into the evaporator coil based on the demand/load on the coil. If the liquid line is cool then it indicates the refrigerant is expanding upstream of this valve. which it shouldn't as the valve requires a constant supply of liquid refrigerant to function correctly, So in a nutshell I would say the system has some refrigerant in it but nowhere near enough!

The most obvious places for leaks on refrigeration systems are on flared or screwed connections look for signs of oil. As the lubricating oil in a refrigeration system circulates around with the refrigerant it tends to leak out when there is a gas leak as well. Otherwise the next places to look are the brazed joints or in the coils them selves. Was this cabinet ever used for fresh produce or foodstuffs? as often acids/odours given off by foodstuffs can cause the copper tubing of the coils to corrode and you get tiny little pinprick leaks. I was dealing with some air conditioners recently which were installed in the food service area of a fast food store that sold "subs" you can guess the one yourself! After four years of use and no maintenance the evaporator coils all developed microscopic leaks and became porous in places. When I inspected the coils they smelt just like salad and salad dressing as if you had walked into the store and the copper tubing of the coils behind the fins was all black.

I am not totally sure of the laws regarding refrigerants in the US of A but unless you have the facility to reclaim any remaining refrigerant in the system then you are probably best doing what you say and getting a technician to look at it for you as they need to find the leak, repair it and the recharge the system with the correct refrigerant.

HTH