American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
calebstringer said:
What difference would using two row make instead of pale ale malt, as the original recipe calls for?

It would have less of a malty, breadyness to it. Pale ale malt is typically more bready than regular 2 row brewers malt.
 
What difference would using two row make instead of pale ale malt, as the original recipe calls for?

I think the original recipe calls for [American] 2-Row malt, not a pale ale malt since it's meant to be an economical beer.

The Vienna malt goes well with the [American] 2-Row malt IMO and might be harder to distinguish if the base malt was more "malty".

You might want to look at the CBYI Deschutes Mirror Pond for an APA with US pale ale malt.
 
Bottled mine up last night. Got a massive haul out of this - 60 bottles! The hydro sample was so delicious that instead of getting those last ounces of beer in to a bottle at the end, I just drank it.

This is going to be for by bro-in-law's birthday, so it should be a success!
 
It's too much in my experience. Have you had consistent good results with that amount?

I use a carbonation calculator app on my phone. Match the style and amount of beer, gives the standard range of volumes. Calculates for corn sugar, table sugar (sucrose), or kegging pressure. I go for middle of the recommended road often. Remember add sugar by weight, not volume.

But either way, you'll get beer and learn something. Have fun, and welcome!
 
I think i'm going to try this recipe with a combination of simcoe/amarillo. Anyone else used these hops for this recipe? If so how much and how did it turn out?
 
What difference would using two row make instead of pale ale malt, as the original recipe calls for?

They are the similar if not the same. 2 Row Palt malt is a descriptor defining how the barley grows on the stalk ... in two rows. There is also six row, grown in six rows on the stalk. It has a higher diastatic power than two row, grown in North America and used in North American Pilsners along with other adjuncts such as rice and corn. It was developed back in the earlier days of North American Settlement in hopes to save money by being able to use less barley .

Pale Malt is pale malt. Malters as well as region and country make the difference, but pale is pale and is the basis for most beer.
 
Made two 5 gallon batches of this over the weekend. First one exactly how the recipe is put together for all grain. But the second one I used some simcoe hops that I had left over from another brew. I used an ounce total. Put in .5oz 60 min, .25oz 30 min, and .25oz at 10 min. We shall see how they turn out. Looking forward to these brews.
 
This will be my first no-extract BIAB recipe, scaling it down to 3 gallons and rounding hops/fermentables to easier totals (don't have a scale yet), this is what I came up with from Brewers Friend:

Batch Size: 3 gallons
Boil Size: 4 gallons
Boil Time: 60 minutes
Efficiency: 65%


4.5 lbs American Pale 2-row
1 lb Vienna
0.5 lb Crystal 10L

.5 oz Cascade @ 60 minutes
.25 oz Cascade @ 30 minutes
.25 oz Cascade @ 15 minutes
.25 oz Cascade @ 5 minutes


Mash at 152, pitch rehydrated nottingham at 68.

Brewersfriend gives me the following numbers on it:

1.048 OG, 1.011 FG, 4.84 ABV, 43.59 IBU, 4.92 SRM


Am I missing anything in this conversion that shouldn't work, or someplace I should tweak? (Was thinking maybe a little more 10L, to get over 5 SRM, and into the American Pale Ale style?)
 
Looks ok to me, roughly. You can either bump up the weight on the crystal, OR and what I would do is bump up the color of the crystal. Maybe go up to 40L? I also use brewers' friend, cause I am a budget brewer too, but I recommend a scale. It is as important as a good thermometer. You could also adjust the times a little, plus or minus to hit the ibu you are looking for...

But like I said your scaling doesn't look bad. I like to lean toward late addition hops, especially in pale apes, cause I LOVE that aroma!
 
Looks ok to me, roughly. You can either bump up the weight on the crystal, OR and what I would do is bump up the color of the crystal. Maybe go up to 40L? I also use brewers' friend, cause I am a budget brewer too, but I recommend a scale. It is as important as a good thermometer. You could also adjust the times a little, plus or minus to hit the ibu you are looking for...

But like I said your scaling doesn't look bad. I like to lean toward late addition hops, especially in pale apes, cause I LOVE that aroma!

Yeah, the scale is on my "hope I get it for Christmas otherwise I'm buying it for myself" list. But I need to squeeze one more brew in before Xmas.

Good idea on upping the color, i'll probably just bump the color to keep it down in the gravity range. Thanks for the response, i'll probably order tonight from wherever ends up the cheapest. Probably Austin, i want to grab some of their mystery hop dust for a smaller batch ipa later.
 
Yeah no prob.

I plugged in 60L too, but that can add a fruity sweetness (not unpleasant, but wrong for this style), but you work get almost 10 srm while the 40 will get ya 7 and change, where I like my pales.
 
This will be my first no-extract BIAB recipe, scaling it down to 3 gallons and rounding hops/fermentables to easier totals (don't have a scale yet), this is what I came up with from Brewers Friend:

Batch Size: 3 gallons
Boil Size: 4 gallons
Boil Time: 60 minutes
Efficiency: 65%


4.5 lbs American Pale 2-row
1 lb Vienna
0.5 lb Crystal 10L

.5 oz Cascade @ 60 minutes
.25 oz Cascade @ 30 minutes
.25 oz Cascade @ 15 minutes
.25 oz Cascade @ 5 minutes


Mash at 152, pitch rehydrated nottingham at 68.

Brewersfriend gives me the following numbers on it:

1.048 OG, 1.011 FG, 4.84 ABV, 43.59 IBU, 4.92 SRM


Am I missing anything in this conversion that shouldn't work, or someplace I should tweak? (Was thinking maybe a little more 10L, to get over 5 SRM, and into the American Pale Ale style?)

Here's the recipe scaled for 3.5 gallons. It's for 70% efficiency - I check pre-boil gravity and remove some wort/replace with water if the mash efficiency is high. I'd use 75% next time (multiply my grain weights by 0.9333), no change to hops, maybe 154F mash.

Edwort’s Haus Pale Ale —From Homebrewtalk
Ingredients

Batch Size (Gal): 3.5 Gal End of Boil
Total Grain (Lbs): 7.15
Anticipated Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.043, 0.75 gal/hr Evaporation Rate
Anticipated OG: 1.052, 70% Mash Efficiency
Anticipated SRM: 4.5 SRM
Anticipated IBU: 41.4 IBU (Rager)
Mash Efficiency: 70%
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Est Final Gravity: 1.011
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.3%

5.45 lb, Rahr American 2-Row 1.8L
1.36 lb or 617 g Weyermann Vienna Malt 3.1L
0.34 lb or 154 g Briess Caramel 10L

Cascade Hops 6.8%, 0.64 oz or 18.04 g, 30.4 IBU
Cascade Hops 6.8%, 0.32 oz or 9.02 g, 7.7 IBU
Cascade Hops 6.8%, 0.16 oz or 4.51 g, 2.0 IBU
Cascade Hops 6.8%, 0.16 oz or 4.51 g, 1.3 IBU

Wyeast 1056 American Ale
Mash at 152F for 60 min

KITCHEN SCALES

I'd recommend this scale for hops (100g max, 0.01 increments), about $10:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003STEJ20/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Brewed my frist all grain Hause Pale Ale in my recently completed HERMS system yesterday.

Everything went really well, but I have a few questions if anyone can help me.

1) The dough-in water specified is 11 liters. When I put 11 liters into the grains it barely made the the grains damp - landed up with about 16 liters.

2) My OG came out at 1,059, not the 1.050 as per recipe. This seems a little high ? Maybe I miss measured the grains which could explain the extra dough - in water required as well as the higher OG.

3) Finally, when it came to aerating the wort, the aquarium pump would not work so I shook the fermenter quite violently for about 5 minutes. Can I re-aerate the wort with a new aeration pump tonight or will this result in off flavours ? It is bubbling away quite nicely as we speak but I'm scared that it will use up all the available oxygen too quickly and spot fermenting.

Any comment much appreciated.
 
So after 4 months in the bottle I just cracked one open and find zero hops aroma and minimal flavor. As this was my first Pale Ale (or IPA), is this normal after 4 months?

Thanks!
 
So after 4 months in the bottle I just cracked one open and find zero hops aroma and minimal flavor. As this was my first Pale Ale (or IPA), is this normal after 4 months?

Thanks!

Not normal imo. What was the OG and FG? I made an extract version last year with extra extract and it wasn't great but definitely drinkable. I plan to do an all grain version next exactly as written in the OP.
 
Not normal imo. What was the OG and FG? I made an extract version last year with extra extract and it wasn't great but definitely drinkable. I plan to do an all grain version next exactly as written in the OP.

SG - 1.050
FG - 1.012

It was drinkable but bland..
 
Not normal imo. What was the OG and FG? I made an extract version last year with extra extract and it wasn't great but definitely drinkable. I plan to do an all grain version next exactly as written in the OP.

I agree that it's not normal. I have a batch made on 17-Sept (about 3 months) that is great or better than at two months.
 
I agree that it's not normal. I have a batch made on 17-Sept (about 3 months) that is great or better than at two months.

The problem is that you need to drink the beer faster! :cross:

I brewed 10 gal in Aug and another 10 in Oct. All 20 gal are gone! This beer is delicious!
 
Brewed my frist all grain Hause Pale Ale in my recently completed HERMS system yesterday.

Everything went really well, but I have a few questions if anyone can help me.

1) The dough-in water specified is 11 liters. When I put 11 liters into the grains it barely made the the grains damp - landed up with about 16 liters.

2) My OG came out at 1,059, not the 1.050 as per recipe. This seems a little high ? Maybe I miss measured the grains which could explain the extra dough - in water required as well as the higher OG.

3) Finally, when it came to aerating the wort, the aquarium pump would not work so I shook the fermenter quite violently for about 5 minutes. Can I re-aerate the wort with a new aeration pu

mp tonight or will this result in off flavours ? It is bubbling away quite nicely as we speak but I'm scared that it will use up all the available oxygen too quickly and spot fermenting.

Any comment much appreciated.

Being your first AG on a new setup, you have a lot of variables that are difficult to determine. You will figure these variables out as you get a few more brews on your system.

1. Water - Could be system dependent. You can run the math but at the end of the day, your system is different than mine so our water additions will differ. 5 liters is a bit much of a difference though but I am not familiar with your MT so not enough information to fully answer. Could it be inaccurate volume measurements?

2. Efficiency - This is your first AG and you ended up 9 pts higher. Could be that you got great efficiency or perhaps your numbers were off (volumes and/or grains).

3. Aeration - Once yeast is pitched, do not re-aerate. You should be fine. I used to do the violent shake thing and never had problems.

Your beer should be fine so relax. Besides, your first AG was on a HERMS, you are already way ahead of me!

You got a lot going on for your first AG! It took me a while just to get water volumes down!
 
Brewed my first all grain version of this with a few differences:

Undershot the OG (was at about 1.046)
Single-hopped with Nelson Sauvin instead of cascade
S-05 instead of Notty

It tasted fairly light, and didn't have a ton of character (I figure I'll try it again with a higher gravity and see what happens now what I'm more familiar with my system). The nice thing was there wasn't a lot getting in the way of the NS hop flavor, which tasted fantastic. Will not argue with the quaffable statement.

Thanks for the recipe, Ed. I'm definitely interested in tinkering with this to make it a year-round brew at my place.
 
Went into bottles Sunday, tasting good from the hydrometer sample. Can't wait for this one to carb up.
 
scottvin said:
Well, when I first had the bottled beer (about three weeks after bottling) - the hop flavor/aroma was very good.

It is very strange...

Did you keep the hop schedule the same as the recipe? Were you able to chill the wort or did you let it sit overnight to cool?

Or... Do you have a cold or allergies? My allergies flare up from time to time and I find my sense of smell to degrade quite a bit during that time.
 
Did you keep the hop schedule the same as the recipe? Were you able to chill the wort or did you let it sit overnight to cool?

Or... Do you have a cold or allergies? My allergies flare up from time to time and I find my sense of smell to degrade quite a bit during that time.

I used the recipe exactly as listed on the first page.
I chilled the wort with a plate chiller.

I do not have a cold or allergies.. it's very weird because when I first opened the beer, the aroma and flavor was great.
 
I used the recipe exactly as listed on the first page.
I chilled the wort with a plate chiller.

I do not have a cold or allergies.. it's very weird because when I first opened the beer, the aroma and flavor was great.

The only thing that comes to mind other than high storage temps is your water supply maybe tainted it?
 
Doing this tonight as my first BIAB batch, a partial volume boil. Using a little more hops (1oz at 30m instead of .5) to compensate for the smaller boil, but otherwise, right on with the recipe, EXCEPT... I accidentally bought 20L instead of 10L.

Worth making a trip across town, or just go with the 20L? Guessing the 20 will be fine, obviously a little bit darker, The malt comparison charts I've found have no discernable difference, other than color. It darkened it from 5SRM to 6SRM, when I put it into beersmith. Other than that, not much change in the numbers...

Thoughts?
 
The only thing that comes to mind other than high storage temps is your water supply maybe tainted it?

I kept it in the basement the whole time - about 65 the warmest it get all year.

I filter the water before I use it in brewing but how could water supply taint it?
 
There could be tons of factors, the weird thing is that it tasted good going into the bottles. The only things that really make it worse over time AFAIK are things like oxidation, infections, etc. The rest would be bad going in. 4 months is a long time to wait to drink a pale ale, but it shouldn't taste like nothing.

The water might have had chlorine or chloramine in it, but I'm not familiar with how that affects things. Most people seem to think it adds a nasty medicinal flavor.

The only batch I've ever had like you're describing was an IPA made from an all-grain kit. The kit had sat on my shelf with crushed grains and room temp hops for about 3 months, and who knows how long in the store. I finally made it and the beer... Tasted like absolutely, positively nothing whatsoever. Carbonated nothingness.
 
There could be tons of factors, the weird thing is that it tasted good going into the bottles. The only things that really make it worse over time AFAIK are things like oxidation, infections, etc. The rest would be bad going in. 4 months is a long time to wait to drink a pale ale, but it shouldn't taste like nothing.

The water might have had chlorine or chloramine in it, but I'm not familiar with how that affects things. Most people seem to think it adds a nasty medicinal flavor.

The only batch I've ever had like you're describing was an IPA made from an all-grain kit. The kit had sat on my shelf with crushed grains and room temp hops for about 3 months, and who knows how long in the store. I finally made it and the beer... Tasted like absolutely, positively nothing whatsoever. Carbonated nothingness.

Well, there are only two bottles left (we drank most of it at the party three weeks after bottling) - but just got me wondering...
 
Just got done with my first AG mash, starting the boil as soon as the water warms up.

I don't think I had a big enough pot, so my efficiency is awful. Waiting for my sample to cool, but probably below 60%... What would be the best way to repair it? I don't have DME on hand, but can run and get some if table sugar is goign to futz it up.
 
Just got done with my first AG mash, starting the boil as soon as the water warms up.

I don't think I had a big enough pot, so my efficiency is awful. Waiting for my sample to cool, but probably below 60%... What would be the best way to repair it? I don't have DME on hand, but can run and get some if table sugar is goign to futz it up.

find your preboil quantity and gravity. then go here and enter values.
http://www.brewersfriend.com/allgrain-ogfg/
Fiddle with the batch size to scale the boil down quantity to 1.051 og.

At 60% 4.5 gallons is about right.
 
Ended up adding DME until I got to 1.051, still hit my 5 gallon final volume. that'll be my last venture into all grain in a small apartment kitchen. partial mash all day, but i don't have room for any sort of efficient brewing at that volume. Bah.
 
My efficiency is off for some reason. I'd like to blame the milling. The first couple of times I brewed all grain I was over 80%. Now that I get my stuff from BMW, it is lower. May be a connection there. I eeked a 1.049 out of this one.
 
Back
Top