I need help with an American Pale Ale recipe

I want to brew an AG American Pale Ale next . . . a really traditional yet hoppy one.

Here is the recipe I have put together so far, and I am looking for advice regarding hopping it.

Grain:
11 lbs 2-Row
.5 lbs Crystal (40L)

Yeast: Safale US-56 (Chico Strain)

As for hops, I would like to stick with the "C"s - Chinook, Centennial, Cascade. How much of each do you guys think I should do? At what times should I put them in?

Which and how much should I use for dry hopping?

What kind of OG are you expecting? If it's ballpark 1050 I would aim for the upper 30's in bittering IBU's, and then use a flavoring addition to hit low 40's. 3/4oz at flameout aroma hops, and 1/2-3/4oz dry hops.

At least that works for my tastebuds. Now which hops to use is quite subjective and an area of experimentation and self-discovery...

When I am looking to make a style I usually start at the first link below, then head on to the 2nd link for grain ideas. Your grains look good but ya may want to throw in some carapils just for a bit if head retention. Something else I have looking at doing since I started AG beers is when making a specificly american style beer I have been splitting my base malt between 2 and 6 row so maybe you might want to go with 5.5 of 2 row and 5.5 of 6 row. As for the hops I would go 1 oz of each just for managment of inventory. 30 minutes on the Chinooks, 15 minutes on the Centenials, and dry hop with the Cascades.

http://www.bjcp.org/styles04/Category10.html

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipes


10A. American Pale Ale

Aroma: Usually moderate to strong hop aroma from dry hopping or late kettle additions of American hop varieties. A citrusy hop character is very common, but not required. Low to moderate maltiness supports the hop presentation, and may optionally show small amounts of specialty malt character (bready, toasty, biscuity). Fruity esters vary from moderate to none. No diacetyl. Dry hopping (if used) may add grassy notes, although this character should not be excessive.

Appearance: Pale golden to deep amber. Moderately large white to off-white head with good retention. Generally quite clear, although dry-hopped versions may be slightly hazy.
Flavor: Usually a moderate to high hop flavor, often showing a citrusy American hop character (although other hop varieties may be used). Low to moderately high clean malt character supports the hop presentation, and may optionally show small amounts of specialty malt character (bready, toasty, biscuity). The balance is typically towards the late hops and bitterness, but the malt presence can be substantial. Caramel flavors are usually restrained or absent. Fruity esters can be moderate to none. Moderate to high hop bitterness with a medium to dry finish. Hop flavor and bitterness often lingers into the finish. No diacetyl. Dry hopping (if used) may add grassy notes, although this character should not be excessive.
Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body. Carbonation moderate to high. Overall smooth finish without astringency often associated with high hopping rates.

Overall Impression: Refreshing and hoppy, yet with sufficient supporting malt.
History: An American adaptation of English pale ale, reflecting indigenous ingredients (hops, malt, yeast, and water). Often lighter in color, cleaner in fermentation by-products, and having less caramel flavors than English counterparts.

Comments: There is some overlap in color between American pale ale and American amber ale. The American pale ale will generally be cleaner, have a less caramelly malt profile, less body, and often more finishing hops.
Ingredients: Pale ale malt, typically American two-row. American hops, often but not always ones with a citrusy character. American ale yeast. Water can vary in sulfate content, but carbonate content should be relatively low. Specialty grains may add character and complexity, but generally make up a relatively small portion of the grist. Grains that add malt flavor and richness, light sweetness, and toasty or bready notes are often used (along with late hops) to differentiate brands.

Vital Statistics:
OG.....................FG..................IBUs..........SRM......ABV
1.045 - 1.060 1.010 - 1.015 30 - 45+ 5 - 14 4.5 - 6%


Commercial Examples: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Stone Pale Ale, Great Lakes Burning River Pale Ale, Full Sail Pale Ale, Three Floyds X-Tra Pale Ale, Anderson Valley Poleeko Gold Pale Ale, Left Hand Brewing Jackman's Pale Ale, Pyramid Pale Ale, Deschutes Mirror Pond

I would probably use the Chinook only for bittering, the Cascade only for flavor/aroma, and the Centenial in small amounts for both bittering and flavor/aroma.

Why not mix it up with the malt a little bit, and add a few other types to your recipe.

Try 3% Malted Wheat & 10% Munich malt added to your recipe for a little flair. It will definitely add complexity to the final product.

I can recommend this hop profile which worked in several 5 gal AG batches of this style that I have done.

Target IBU's- 40
Perle- kettle addition -25 IBU's
Centennial- middle addition -10 IBU's
Centennial- late addition -5 IBU's
Cascade- end of boil
Northern brewers- Dry hop

OG-1.054

Good Luck

glibbidy said:

Perle- kettle addition -25 IBU's
Centennial- middle addition -10 IBU's
Centennial- late addition -5 IBU's
Cascade- end of boil
Northern brewers- Dry hop

Click to expand...

Interesting--I'd don't think I'd have ever thought of dry-hopping with Northern Brewer. Do you get a very piney aroma from that? Could be interesting.

Awesome - thanks, guys. Here is what I have so far:

Grain
5.5 lbs. 2-Row
5.5 lbs. 6-Row
0.5 lbs. Crystal
0.5 lbs. Cara-pils
Hops
1.0 oz. Chinook (30 min)
1.0 oz. Centennial (15 min)
1.0 oz. Cascade (dry hop)
Yeast
US-56 Safale

Will this be hoppy enough? A did a pale ale a few months back - it was my first AG brew so I went fairly conservative with it to test everything out. As I drink the brew now, I wish I had added more hops. Otherwise it is good - tastes like a lot of domestic yellow beers, but it lacks that powerful hop flavor and aroma that I like in SNPA and other pale ales.

Also - if I use Cascade Plugs for dry hopping, do I still use 1 oz? Should I adjust amounts when using plugs?

Where the heck did the 6-row come from? I get right rid of that. You've got nothing in that grist that requires the diastatic power of 6-row.

glibbidy said:

Target IBU's- 40
Perle- kettle addition -25 IBU's
Centennial- middle addition -10 IBU's
Centennial- late addition -5 IBU's
Cascade- end of boil
Northern brewers- Dry hop

Click to expand...

Missed your post before I posted last . . . I will add the Munich malt! As for the hop recommendations, how can I convert IBUs into more practical terms? In other words, if I know the AA% of the hops I am buying . . . how can I calculate how many oz. will get me 25 IBUs?

Maybe I should post this question elsewhere . . .

Baron von BeeGee said:

Where the heck did the 6-row come from? I get right rid of that. You've got nothing in that grist that requires the diastatic power of 6-row.

Click to expand...

Pumbaa's recommendation - I assumed that it was for the unique "Americanness" of 6-Row . . . You suggest sticking with the 2-Row?

I just don't understand what the 6-row would be doing. It's normally used in grists with a high ratio of adjuncts that require extra diastatic power for mashing. Otherwise, it has a higher protein content than 2-row, as well as imparting a grainier taste. I'd skip it and stick with reliable, full-bodied 2-row.

cweston said:

Interesting--I'd don't think I'd have ever thought of dry-hopping with Northern Brewer. Do you get a very piney aroma from that? Could be interesting.

Click to expand...

Yeah, think of a cross between raisins & pine cones

I agree with the Baron, stick with 2 Row, your better off.

sonvolt said:

Hops
1.0 oz. Chinook (30 min)
1.0 oz. Centennial (15 min)
1.0 oz. Cascade (dry hop)

Click to expand...

Something's not right here...the longest you have any hops in the boil is 30 minutes?

I'd go more like

Chinook for 60 or 90 (however long you plan to boil)
Centennial for 30
Centennial and Cascade for 15
Cascade for 2
Cascade dry hop

I use beer recipator to calculate IBUs

sonvolt said:

Missed your post before I posted last . . . I will add the Munich malt! As for the hop recommendations, how can I convert IBUs into more practical terms? In other words, if I know the AA% of the hops I am buying . . . how can I calculate how many oz. will get me 25 IBUs?

Maybe I should post this question elsewhere . . .

Click to expand...

The formula I have is hacked together in an excel sheet.

Volume ( gallons)*Target IBU*(OG-1.050/.2+1)*(target IBU/260 +1)*1.01

Divided by: Percentage Utilization* Percentage Alpha Acid* 0.749

You would need to recalculate this for each hop addition.

Thanks, guys . . . this is why I come here! :rockin:

Baron von BeeGee said:

I just don't understand what the 6-row would be doing. It's normally used in grists with a high ratio of adjuncts that require extra diastatic power for mashing. Otherwise, it has a higher protein content than 2-row, as well as imparting a grainier taste. I'd skip it and stick with reliable, full-bodied 2-row.

Click to expand...

*Shrug*

I like it and for me is costs the same as 2 row. Besides if you are making an American pale ale, why not use the more american of the 2? American hops + American grain = American style.

6 row will give you a grainyer, husky, firm character for your ale. The only down side is is that you'll have a bit of chill haze from all the protiens. Dont be afraid of 6 row, worse thing that can happen is you have 5 gallons of beer

Something's not right here...the longest you have any hops in the boil is 30 minutes?

I'd go more like

Chinook for 60 or 90 (however long you plan to boil)
Centennial for 30
Centennial and Cascade for 15
Cascade for 2
Cascade dry hop

I use beer recipator to calculate IBUs

Click to expand...

I was using Promash and ended up with a IBU of 40ish. I'm not a big hop head, so I tend to stay a bit light on them . . .

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

10-A American Ale, American Pale Ale

Min OG: 1.045 Max OG: 1.060
Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 54
Min Clr: 5 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.00 Wort Size (Gal): 5.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 12.00
Anticipated OG: 1.060 Plato: 14.71
Anticipated SRM: 6.3
Anticipated IBU: 40.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 5.88 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.051 SG 12.60 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Coarse Grind As Is.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
45.8 5.50 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 73.35 2
45.8 5.50 lbs. Pale Malt(6-row) America 71.27 2
4.2 0.50 lbs. Cara-Pils Dextrine Malt 67.12 2
4.2 0.50 lbs. Crystal 40L America 69.19 40

Potential represented as Yield, Coarse Grind As Is.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 0.0 Dry Hop
1.00 oz. Centennial Whole 10.50 11.9 15 min.
1.00 oz. Chinook Whole 13.00 28.3 30 min.


Yeast
-----

Thamks, Pumbaa. I gotsta gets me that Promash!! :rockin:

From the Northern Brewer Forum.
Sierra Nevada uses
.4 oz Magnum for 60
.5 oz Perle for 30
1 oz Cascade for 10
2 oz Cascade at flameout
There is a thread over there where a member got the recipe from the brewer at Sierra incase you are interested. I'm going to give this a shot in the next month or so.

this site cant go 10 threads without dropping a snpa clone bomb!

Id ditch the 6-row as well, maybe up the crystal to a pound, that will mellow out those chinook hops...definitley throw some munich in there and dry hop with both cascade and northern brewer,or perle if your feeling frisky...

I'm not sure about dry hopping with the Northern Brewer, because . . .

glibbidy said:

Yeah, think of a cross between raisins & pine cones

Click to expand...

. . . does not sound good to me.

and if you mix in some cascades youve got grapefruit, raisens and pine cones, which would be nasty on a pizza, but great for hop aroma...

Here is where I am at:

12 lbs. 2-Row (I may back this off to 10 or 11)
1/2 lb. Caramel/Crystal 10L
1/2 lb. Carame/Crystal 40L
1/2 lb. Carapils
1/2 lb. Wheat Malt
1.0 oz. Chinook (60 min)
1.0 oz. Centennial (30 min)
0.5 oz. Cascade (30 min)
0.5 oz. Cascade (2 min)
1.0 oz. Cascade Leaf Hops (dry)
Safeale US-56

I haven't ran this through the recipator yet to determine IBUs . . . I want it on the high side. I also may add some Perle hops at 60 or 30 minutes.

Think it'll be good? I'm new to designing my own recipes . . . have always used stuff from books, etc.

wheat is good for head retention and to crisp up the body a little bit. I usually throw up to a third of a pound in most of my APAs.