VISSANI Build

Here is a vissani build that I have just finished. I wanted to post instructions on how to DIY. It is a very clean looking fridge everything is self contained with no external boxes.

Here is the final product with the fridge closed. It is the front closed and a picture of the back. The outlet is split one is hot and one is for cold.

My inspiration was from Ingchr's vissani fermentation chamber

I wanted to build it using a STC 1000 but wanted to install it inside the fridge so you can read it through the glass

So for the build. I bought the vissani fridge for $70.00 which is way below the average cost it is normally in the low to mid $100.00 range on sale. I bought all my parts from Homedepot besides the STC 1000 from newegg.com

Part list:
STC 1000 $24.00
20' of 300V rubber power cord for $0.48/ft I got 20 feet
1 gang Outlet Box $2.74
100 W light bulb (at home)
15 AMP outlet $1.19
Empty paint can $2.97
Face plate $0.62
Black outlet plate $0.47
Hez nut 4mm-7hex $0.50
Standard screw (any old one will work around 1 inch)
15 A plug $2.97
Weatherproof socket for the light bulb $3.28
Machine screw 4mm-.7 x 20mm $0.96
White plug 15A $1.99
1 gang low voltage bracket $1.65

Total $53.00

Note there is extra pieces in the photo but you only need what is on the list

I am in no way an expert electrician or an expert in refridgeration. Conduct this build at your own risk. Have fun and be safe.
So here we go:

First I bypassed the thermostat according to Ingchr's post

2) Cut the tabs off the back of the 1 gang low voltage bracket this will allow it to fit perfectly under the built in thermostat control of the fridge(Pic1) Then clean up the side of the orange bracket. I used a box cutter

3) Cut a square the size of the STC panel in the solid face plate. This was the hardest part of the project for me. I used a box cutter to score it then I used anything I had to cut it out. I would recommend a dremel. (Pic 2)

4) Screw the face plate on the orange box with included screws. (Pic 3)

5) Remove the thermostat box/ light attachment on the top of the fridge. This is simply unscrewing two screws under the box. Pull down and toward you and it will come right off.

6)Unhook the light. Pull the white thermostat straight off and unscrew the thermometer. Remember where the wires where that you pulled off of the thermostat so you can put it back on. The whole black thermostat box will separate from the fridge. (Pic 4 5)

Nevermind. Nice job.

Couldn't you just plug the whole cooler in your stc-1000 instead ? Do you really have to mess with the built in thermostat ?

7) Now attach the orange 1 gang low voltage bracket to the black thermostat/ light box on the fridge. I drilled a whole straight down from the black thermostat/light to the orange box. Then place the machine screw straight threw the hole and put a little bit of crazy glue on the head of the screw. You will have to attach the black thermostat/ light box on the fridge before you attach the orange box. There will be two screw posts hanging under the thermostat and two holes on top of the orange box(Pic 6, 7)

8) After a few minutes push the orange box onto the studs from the machine screw. Use the nuts to attach it to the fridge(Pic 8)

9) Now comes the fun part wiring! Drill a few holes on top of the hump in the back left corner of the fridge. I drilled 3 holes in the fridge. Two wires ran from the back of the fridge to the orange box. One ran from the back of the fridge to where the paint can heater is(I will describe how to build this late). Leave extra wire(better to have too much then too little)

10) The first step to wiring is taking one of the cords and using a sharpie to label wires. I took one of the wires one of the whites will be (green cold) one of the green wires will be black.

11) The numbers on top of the diagram are the outputs for the STC 1000. The wires coming in from the bottom is the wire that is plugged into the wall outlet. The middle is the back of the outlet.

matc said:

Couldn't you just plug the whole cooler in your stc-1000 instead ? Do you really have to mess with the built in thermostat ?

Click to expand...

No need to mess with the built in thermostat. I just wanted to remove it to attach the STC 1000 to it. I could of just glued it on under the thermostat but I wanted to use machine screws to make sure it wouldn't come off.

Bypassing the built in thermostat, allows you to drop the temp past 40 deg.

12) So now the STC 1000 is wired so you can attach it to the face plate and to the orange box under the top of the fridge.

13) On to the outlet box. I took the blue one gang outlet box and cut out the circles to put the wires in the box. I then used two wood screws to attach it to the bottom left side of the fridge.

14) Using the wiring diagram I ran the wires from the STC-1000 to the back of the outlet and attached a seperate length of wire to the 15A plug. Then put the face plate on it. Make sure to remove the tab on the outlet to seperate the hot from cold.

dtfleming said:

Bypassing the built in thermostat, allows you to drop the temp past 40 deg.

Click to expand...

Correct

15) Almost done onto the heat lamp. I took the lid of the paint can and cut out a hole. Then screw the lightbulb through the lid into the weatherproof socket. I used extra 300 V wire to wire the light bulb. Run the wire through the back of the fridge and then attach the white 15 A plug.

16) Then attach the bulb to the hot side of the outlet and the fridge to the cold side.

17) Sit back and enjoy your clean looking fermentation chamber/ Kegerator

I figured out this build's wiring from reading through the forum. I didnt want to get too much into the nitty gritty. Feel free to message me if you have any questions. This is my first write up so sorry if it is rough.

Hopefully this helps someone or at least gives them an idea on their DIY project.

Cheers!

Thanks for sharing this build. I really like the clean look. Was curious how you figured out exactly where to drill your holes through the back of the fridge? I like the idea, but wouldn't want to drill through anything important.

From what I saw the back wall is where the refrigerant is run. So I drilled straight down over the hump in the back. Just make sure you find a spot where you don't drill into the compressor. The back left worked for me.

Clean, but the loss of height in the fermentor seems like a bad idea. If I were to put the controller inside, I'd probably shift it to one side of the existing hump or the other since I use 6 gallon carboys most of the time. Just my opinion. But it is a very clean look.

Awesome build and write up. I'm about to start this tonight. How big of hole did you need to drill into it to run the wires and did you use anything to seal up around the hole once you ran the wires through?

I use two of these and wish it was at least an inch taller once I move to a carboy. I would not be willing to give up any height. I use reptile heaters to add heat,.