How to make a yeast starter - Pictorial (updated)

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As someone without a stir plate. What would be the best way to keep the mixture oxygenated while it ferments? Is a stir plate the best way to go, or not really needed?

A stir plate is definitely the best way to go, as it will increase your cell growth significantly, but it's not a necessity.

Giving the flask a good shake every time you walk past it (intermittent shaking) is a fairly effective method of keeping the oxygen levels up.
 
Sulli said:
A stir plate is definitely the best way to go, as it will increase your cell growth significantly, but it's not a necessity.

I've been reading about the advantages of a stir plate. From what I've seen, they at cheap to buy and even cheaper to make. I ended up ordering one for timing reasons and believe it will be a great investment.
 
What size flask do most use for yeast starters? I'm doing 5g extract brews. Would a 1000mL starter be big enough for most?
 
What size flask do most use for yeast starters? I'm doing 5g extract brews. Would a 1000mL starter be big enough for most?

If you have a stir plate, a 1000ml flask will get you by most of the time.

Without a stir plate, I would recommend a 2000ml flask.

If fact I'd recommend spending the few extra dollars for a 2000ml flask regardless.

More headspace = less headache.
 
It is not recommended that you make a starter with dry yeast, just rehydrate it and pitch.

I haven't used dry yeast at all for many years, but this recommendation seems counter intuitive. Who knows how old the dry yeast is and when it is dormant in a dry state, why wouldn't you want to kick-start them with a starter such as this? I don't see how it could hurt. What is the rationale behind this recommendation?
 
choppersean said:
I haven't used dry yeast at all for many years, but this recommendation seems counter intuitive. Who knows how old the dry yeast is and when it is dormant in a dry state, why wouldn't you want to kick-start them with a starter such as this? I don't see how it could hurt. What is the rationale behind this recommendation?

Here is some information regarding dry yeast.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html
 
I've been racking my brain, trying to think of one that wouldn't be too incredibly long... how about a comic on racking? Either racking from the brew kettle to the primary, or racking from primary to secondary.

Once again, awesome job! :rockin:

In brewing, racking is basically moving the contents from one container to another. "Racking my brain" must be painful; in the context of brewing.:off:
 
Hey Bat, regarding the "plate" you see in panel 6 - that's a "stir" plate rather than a warming plate. You can youtube that and see one in action. There's a little magnet bar in the flask and the stir plate, when turned on, will spin the little bar keeping the yeast in suspension. It's just one method you can use to keep the yeasties oxygenated vs shaking it every time you walk by.

On what your buddy gave you, it sounds more like "washed yeast". That's an entirely different process and yes, you can follow these instructions to make a starter using that stuff. But, do verify that it's WASHED yeast first! I'm not sure I'd trust just dregs from a primary in my next batch!

***SORRY ALL, I didn't see that everyone already responded. My comp has been acting up lately so I didn't see all those responses****
 
I haven't used dry yeast at all for many years, but this recommendation seems counter intuitive. Who knows how old the dry yeast is and when it is dormant in a dry state, why wouldn't you want to kick-start them with a starter such as this? I don't see how it could hurt. What is the rationale behind this recommendation?

I would think as long as you re-hydrated the dry yeast properly you could add it to a starter and propagate more yeast. After all, a starter is really just a mini beer.

But consider, an 11.5g dry yeast packet contains approximately 200 billion yeast cells, has a shelf life of 2 years, and only costs about $4.00 per pack.

200 billion cells is enough yeast to inoculate 5 gallons of beer up to ~1.060.

Also consider, that in order to double your cell count you would need to make at least a 2 liter starter.
2 liter starter costs ~$2.50 in DME (more than half the cost of a packet of dry yeast)

It just doesn't seem very cost effective to make a starter for dry yeast.

Just my opinion of course. :mug:
 
Don't know about efficiency re using dry yeast vs liquid yeast to make starters but do know alot of mead makers do make starters with dry yeast and that it does work.
 
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

I've updated the pictorial to reflect some of the comments above, such as: only needing to boil for 1 minute and covering the wort when chilling.


:mug:
 
This is great advice for ales.

However, for lagers, you should not be pitching starters at high krausen. The esters produced will be present in the finished beer. You should let a lager starter ferment completely at room temperature, then crash the starter for 24 hours, and decant the liquid before pitching the thick yeast cake.

I would title this "How to make an ale yeast starter", but I'm picky like that.
 
Pretty cool graphic, nice job. I'll be making my first starter in the next day or two, so this is a nice little reference. I think I'll be refrigerating the final product and decanting most of the liquid out... because I'm paranoid about that 1L+ going into my beer (I know, it shouldn't affect the final product.. but I'm paranoid!).
 
This is great advice for ales.

However, for lagers, you should not be pitching starters at high krausen. The esters produced will be present in the finished beer. You should let a lager starter ferment completely at room temperature, then crash the starter for 24 hours, and decant the liquid before pitching the thick yeast cake.

I would title this "How to make an ale yeast starter", but I'm picky like that.

The procedure for making an ale starter is exactly the same as the procedure for making a lager starter.

In both cases fermentation should be pretty much complete within about 24 hours.

What you do with the starter after it ferments has nothing to do with the actual process of "making a yeast starter".
 
Hmmm....Well I made my first starter last night, did the 1/2 cup dme to 2 cups water. Added the yeast to the wort a bit warm but it's a Saison - it seemed to ferment fine.

Thank you so much for the wonderful tutorials!
 
Hmmm....Well I made my first starter last night, did the 1/2 cup dme to 2 cups water. Added the yeast to the wort a bit warm but it's a Saison - it seemed to ferment fine.

Thank you so much for the wonderful tutorials!

The 1/2 cup DME to 2 cups water formula that has been floating around the forums forever, really isn't very accurate.


  • 1/2 cup of DME weighs in at around 70 grams; 2 cups of water is 473 milliliters.
  • 70g of DME into 473ml of water gives a starting gravity of about 1.056.
  • After boiling for the 'recommended' 10 minutes (which is also inaccurate) the gravity will be even higher because of evaporation, more like 1.065+


--White labs and Wyeast both recommend a gravity of no more than 1.040 for a yeast starter. The lower gravity helps maximize the health of the yeast.


Moreover, if you're looking to propagate additional yeast, a 473ml starter isn't going to produce a whole lot of new cells.

IMO, If I'm going to take the time to make a starter, I want to end up with plenty of yeast for my efforts. :)

A 1000ml starter will just about double the cell count. (with intermittent shaking.)



--The old pictorial also recommends using an airlock on your starter; but we now understand that using an airlock will decrease the amount of gas exchange in the starter, thereby inhibiting growth.

:mug:
 
Nice work, Sulli! Love the style, and good info - I just started making starters and have done 15 minute boils, so it's great to know I can boil for less time. Also great to know I can almost immediately chill the flask, I was super paranoid about this, and cooling often took over an hour. I would let it set at room temp for 45 min or so then run cool water over the flask. An hour earlier chilling means another hour for the yeast to do their thing!

Cheers,
Aaron
 
I noticed you "signed" this, and rightly so. It is nice work. Would you mind if I reproduced this at my photolab. I would love your permission to make a poster to put in my basement brewery!
Thanks either way!
 
I noticed you "signed" this, and rightly so. It is nice work. Would you mind if I reproduced this at my photolab. I would love your permission to make a poster to put in my basement brewery!
Thanks either way!

You're welcome to reproduce it. Thanks for asking.

:mug:
 
Like many have said great job. I do have a few of questions though.

I'm new to home brewing so after the 24 hours I just pour the entire contents into my primary with my 5 gallons in it?

Can one of you explain what to do with a lager? I am told you need several packages of the wyeast because of the long cold fermentation.

What the heck is decanting and what was that fella earlier talking about refrigerating lager yeast?

Is there a close approximation of say a quarter cup to 1000ml flask? 10 grams to 100ml is great but everything in my house is cups and spoons. :)

Sulli, do all your Morman buddies know your hobbies? :) I have family in Price and Salt Lake. Just got back from Price a couple of weeks ago. Took the kids skiing in Brighton.
 
So if you refrigerate and decant, do you then pour the cold yeast into your wort or let it rise to room temperature?

Do all of you really go out and buy scales to measure exactly 10 grams of DME? If so what are some good options?
 
Intimnasc said:
So if you refrigerate and decant, do you then pour the cold yeast into your wort or let it rise to room temperature?

Do all of you really go out and buy scales to measure exactly 10 grams of DME? If so what are some good options?

Let the yeast warm up while you are brewing. You want it the same temp or close to the wort at pitch time.
Yes scales are cheap. Using measuring cups are not accurate because the powder is easily compacted. My last starter was 1.6L and i used 160 grams dme
 
OK I have a scale and Pyrex flask on the way. Now I need to order a stir plate.

Also, there are several DIYs on this forum. I found I had most of the parts laying around. It ain't pretty, but it was a lot cheaper than $40. I haven't used it but a couple times because I tend to use dry yeast.
 
Very cool, easy to understand. How about one one on stepping up, something I'm going to need to do for my next batch.
 
I have a minor problem. I can only fit 1.5L safely in my flask. However, i'm brewing a lager that will require a 3 or 4 L starter.

I could ferment out my starter, decant the wort off, and add more boiled and cooled wort to the flask, and repeat. However i don't have another flask to boil and cool with so i would have to use a saucepan.

I could instead ferment out my starter, pour it in a gallon jug, and basically make another starter in my flask and repeat. Ideas?
 
I have a minor problem. I can only fit 1.5L safely in my flask. However, i'm brewing a lager that will require a 3 or 4 L starter.

I could ferment out my starter, decant the wort off, and add more boiled and cooled wort to the flask, and repeat. However i don't have another flask to boil and cool with so i would have to use a saucepan.

I could instead ferment out my starter, pour it in a gallon jug, and basically make another starter in my flask and repeat. Ideas?

Do you have a second fermenter? If so, maybe this from Woodland Brewing might help:

On brew day sanitize two fermentors. Chill the wort and pour half into each one. Pitch the yeast into your primary fermentation vessel, and seal both containers. The following day, just like a starter, your yeast will have grown significantly. Pour the wort from the second container into the primary fermentation vessel. As a bonus, pour as vigorously as you like. Aeration is beneficial at this stage of fermentation.
 
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