Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

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Schlenkerla said:
A starter that size is not a problem. Let your beer ferment at the yeast mfg'r recommended median fermentation temps until it's going full bore for a few days then let it run out at the low end of three recommended temp. Roughly three weeks.

You should read the on line website http://www.howtobrew.com

Look at making your first lager.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the help
 
Brewed this today... I have never done a 90 minute boil and miscalculated the evaporation rate... Started with 7.34(ish) gallons, hoping for 5.5 after 90 Minutes... Ended up with 4.75 gallons. Subsequently I missed my target OG of 1.031 and it's at 1.035.

Oh well, next time I will plan for more evaporation.

Quick question on the fermentation of this using Wyeast 2007, lager yeast. I know you are supposed to do a diacetyl rest at 75% fermentation. Is there a general rule for the amount of time it will take to get to 75% fermented?

I was wondering if anyone knows this so I don't have to open this every day and check the gravity.

If it helps, it's fermenting at 52 degrees.

Thanks
 
If you want to be precise on the 75% rule of thumb you would need to check the gravity.

I personally do not like opening a fermenter unless really necessary. For the diacetyl rest, I would let it come back to room temp before its been laggering too long. Let the yeast finish up at your original fermentation temperature.

So ferment for three or four days, lager about two to three weeks then use the last week to finish at pre lager temps.

If you do this, I think you will be ok.
 
Schlenkerla said:
If you want to be precise on the 75% rule of thumb you would need to check the gravity.

I personally do not like opening a fermenter unless really necessary. For the diacetyl rest, I would let it come back to room temp before its been laggering too long. Let the yeast finish up at your original fermentation temperature.

So ferment for three or four days, lager about two to three weeks then use the last week to finish at pre lager temps.

If you do this, I think you will be ok.
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Thank you... Just so I can clear you would do the diacetyl rest roughly 3 weeks into the ferment (assuming I keep it at 52 degrees for three weeks?)

Sorry... Again, a bit of a noobie when it comes to lager yeast
 
I always do a d-rest about 10 days from putting in the primary. Works for me . Some larger yeast will take longer. D-rest for at least 48 hours. That's my general rule of thumb.
 
I brewed a version of this a week from yesterday. I used 3.5# domestic two-row and 3# German Pilsner. Triple hopped with Liberty, 1/2 ounce each at FWH (90 min), 30 and 0. OG was around 1.032, IBU about 20. Used WY2007. Just took a sample, it's currently around 1.010 and tastes great - like if someone handed me a pint of what I just tasted, I'd be happy - it's like a light German pilsner, in aroma and flavor. At this point, I don't care if it gets down to 1.000, and I'm not sure if I'll want to add the AE.

Thanks for the inspiration, Schlenkerla!
 
I am glad you are inspired! The gratification will continue as you share this with friends.

I would stay the course with the AE so it dries out and maximizes your ABV.

It will only get better with more time.

Cheers.
 
Racked mine 4 days ago on top of the AE.

The first day there wasn't much action, since then there is a foam layer at the top of the fermenter and you can see visible bubbles moving from the bottom to the top.

It sounds like the general guideline is to leave it on the AE for nearly 2 weeks to let it clean up
 
-MG- said:
Racked mine 4 days ago on top of the AE.

The first day there wasn't much action, since then there is a foam layer at the top of the fermenter and you can see visible bubbles moving from the bottom to the top.

It sounds like the general guideline is to leave it on the AE for nearly 2 weeks to let it clean up
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That's correct. Also, don't be alarmed at first taste, that there is a parched dryness. This fades within days to a week after kegging or bottling.
 
This stuff really keeps the fermentation going. I put my AE in a week ago and I still have airlock activity.
 
Just took a sample after being on the AE for one week. The gravity only moved from 1.008 to 1.006.

I had a some good activity in there too... Still have a little more time to let it sit.
 
So I'm currently bringing the brew up into the diacetyl rest zone. Funny, pre-AE there was no hint of it (at around 1.010), and now it's popcorn.

I'm also dry-hopping it (with liberty), and I get hints of great hop aroma through the butter when I swirl the glass. I'm wondering though if the hops in the fermenter will impede the clean-up of DA or somehow "soak up" the DA making it harder to clean it up - ?
 
DoctorDuvel said:
So I'm currently bringing the brew up into the diacetyl rest zone. Funny, pre-AE there was no hint of it (at around 1.010), and now it's popcorn.

I'm also dry-hopping it (with liberty), and I get hints of great hop aroma through the butter when I swirl the glass. I'm wondering though if the hops in the fermenter will impede the clean-up of DA or somehow "soak up" the DA making it harder to clean it up - ?
Click to expand...

If your AE is good it will clean it up. You should see airlock activity, but it will be quite slow. Use a flashlight and look for tiny bubbles rising.

Let the AE do its thing. Post AE there will be slight parched dryness that will fade shortly after bottling or kegging.
 
I sent this as a PM to the original poster but thought I would post it on the thread as well...

Hey, I am looking to brew this beer for my dad. I just had a couple questions.

1. Does this end up being super hoppy with all of the additions?

2. When I put everything into the hopville calculator, it says that the ABV will be 2.9%... The recipe states that it will be above 4%?

3. I know that you state that you add the amylase enzyme in the secondary. Do you do it for the full 14 days?

4. When did you add and for how long in regards to dry hopping?

Sorry for all of the noobish questions... this is only my second all grain and I don't want to screw it up! :D

Thanks for all of your help!
 
dhammers91 said:
I sent this as a PM to the original poster but thought I would post it on the thread as well...

Hey, I am looking to brew this beer for my dad. I just had a couple questions.

1. Does this end up being super hoppy with all of the additions?

2. When I put everything into the hopville calculator, it says that the ABV will be 2.9%... The recipe states that it will be above 4%?

3. I know that you state that you add the amylase enzyme in the secondary. Do you do it for the full 14 days?

4. When did you add and for how long in regards to dry hopping?

Sorry for all of the noobish questions... this is only my second all grain and I don't want to screw it up! :D

Thanks for all of your help!
Click to expand...

1.) Probably not unless you use a super hoppy hop and don't adjust for it.
2.) The calculators don't acount for the Amylase making the unfermentables into fermentables. If you can manually adjust th FG take it down to 1.000 and that will be about what it actually is.
3.) Mine has been in there for I would guess 10-11 days (have notes but to lazy to check.) and yesterday I could see a few of the Starsan bubbles on the side of my airlock. So I would say probably but the OP would definitely be a better judge.
4.) I am not dryhopping this one because I don't have any hops that I think will be good in this light of a beer but I usually dryhop 6-8 days. Everything I have read seems to say a week is about optimal.
 
I have done this recipe twice with the corn and it was excellent? How much of a difference is it with rice only? One less Thing I have to order online brings this to only $10 for 5gal! Also why does the extract version use different hops? I love the smell and bite of cascades!
 
christpuncher123 said:
I have done this recipe twice with the corn and it was excellent? How much of a difference is it with rice only? One less Thing I have to order online brings this to only $10 for 5gal! Also why does the extract version use different hops? I love the smell and bite of cascades!
Click to expand...

Did you use raw corn? If so, what is your cereal mash process?
 
CatHead said:
1.) Probably not unless you use a super hoppy hop and don't adjust for it.
2.) The calculators don't acount for the Amylase making the unfermentables into fermentables. If you can manually adjust th FG take it down to 1.000 and that will be about what it actually is.
3.) Mine has been in there for I would guess 10-11 days (have notes but to lazy to check.) and yesterday I could see a few of the Starsan bubbles on the side of my airlock. So I would say probably but the OP would definitely be a better judge.
4.) I am not dryhopping this one because I don't have any hops that I think will be good in this light of a beer but I usually dryhop 6-8 days. Everything I have read seems to say a week is about optimal.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info... As for the hops, I was planning on using the cascade suggested in the OP... What do u think about that? Suggestions?
 
dhammers91 said:
Thanks for the info... As for the hops, I was planning on using the cascade suggested in the OP... What do u think about that? Suggestions?
Click to expand...

If I would have had any Cascades I would have followed exactly. I don't think it would be overpowering at all. I used Centenial because that was the closest I had.
 
dhammers91 said:
I sent this as a PM to the original poster but thought I would post it on the thread as well...

Hey, I am looking to brew this beer for my dad. I just had a couple questions.

1. Does this end up being super hoppy with all of the additions?

2. When I put everything into the hopville calculator, it says that the ABV will be 2.9%... The recipe states that it will be above 4%?

3. I know that you state that you add the amylase enzyme in the secondary. Do you do it for the full 14 days?

4. When did you add and for how long in regards to dry hopping?

Sorry for all of the noobish questions... this is only my second all grain and I don't want to screw it up! :D

Thanks for all of your help!
Click to expand...

Cathead gave you solid answers.

My $0.02

1) No, if you target 18 IBUs for bittering during the boil. You must be at a gravity close to your target when your mash is done. (See note two.)

2) The ABV is dependent on getting a low final gravity. Shoot for 1.000. This assumes you hit 1.030 target. Have light or extra light DME ready if you fall short of the mash target. This is critical to hit your ibu target. Hop utilization is effected by wort concentration at preboil.

3) Do the AE in the secondary after one week in primary. Yes, at least two weeks in the secondary.

4) If you don't want hop aroma skip the dry hopping.

Batches done with hallertauer, perle, tetnanger, and saaz will be more true to the style. Probably the safe play for making something real close to the style. Mount hood is a good choice too. This is the American version of hallertauer.

I personally like cascade, amarillo, centennial and sorachi ace in this for a summer quaffer. They make the beer a light unique beer for bmc drinkers if they are ok with a citrus note.

Do the German Czech hop style first, round two try an American citrus hop.

Either way both are good for the spring and will not last long.

Cheers
 
Schlenkerla said:
Cathead gave you solid answers.

My $0.02

1) No, if you target 18 IBUs for bittering during the boil. You must be at a gravity close to your target when your mash is done. (See note two.)

2) The ABV is dependent on getting a low final gravity. Shoot for 1.000. This assumes you hit 1.030 target. Have light or extra light DME ready if you fall short of the mash target. This is critical to hit your ibu target. Hop utilization is effected by wort concentration at preboil.

3) Do the AE in the secondary after one week in primary. Yes, at least two weeks in the secondary.

4) If you don't want hop aroma skip the dry hopping.

Batches done with hallertauer, perle, tetnanger, and saaz will be more true to the style. Probably the safe play for making something real close to the style. Mount hood is a good choice too. This is the American version of hallertauer.

I personally like cascade, amarillo, centennial and sorachi ace in this for a summer quaffer. They make the beer a light unique beer for bmc drinkers if they are ok with a citrus note.

Do the German Czech hop style first, round two try an American citrus hop.

Either way both are good for the spring and will not last long.

Cheers
Click to expand...

So for the OG of 1.030... Is that pre boil or post boil in the fermenter? So in other words, if I over shoot, I should water it down before I boil? Or should I wait until it is in the fermenter to top off with water to hit 1.030???

Thanks for your reply!
 
I started with an OG of 1.036. After a week in the secondary with a teaspoon of amylase enzyme, I am down to 1.003 (original FG before enzyme was 1.006). Should I give it another week to try and gain the extra 3 points or is it done and ready to bottle/keg?


Thanks. It tastes great BTW.
 
dhammers91 said:
So for the OG of 1.030... Is that pre boil or post boil in the fermenter? So in other words, if I over shoot, I should water it down before I boil? Or should I wait until it is in the fermenter to top off with water to hit 1.030???

Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...

The 1.030 is post boil. If its over the SG, roll with it, don't dilute.

Your target pre-boil is going to be OG target + dilution based on your boil off. I can't tell you the number..... look at this....

If you have 6.85 gallons preboil your OG should be ~ 1.022 or 5.64 plato

This assumes you try to follow the prescribed grain bill and mash schedule using water volumes and temps as noted. It also has 75% mash efficiency and 18% boil off rate. The latter is a crap shoot until you know your process capability on mash efficiency and boil off rate.

The mash water is usually about 11F over the mash temp.

Try to do your own mash schedule if you can do so. Look at this for guidance. ok?

Miller Lite Clone - Tripple Hopped - AG

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

06-A Light Hyrbid Beer, Cream Ale

Min OG: 1.042 Max OG: 1.055
Min IBU: 15 Max IBU: 20
Min Clr: 25 Max Clr: 5 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.00 Wort Size (Gal): 5.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 5.50
Anticipated OG: 1.030 Plato: 7.68
Anticipated SRM: 2.0
Anticipated IBU: 17.0
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 18.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 6.85 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.022 SG 5.64 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
% Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
36.4 2.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2
31.8 1.75 lbs. Pale Malt(6-row) America 1.035 2
31.8 1.75 lbs. Flaked Corn (Maize) America 1.040 1

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
0.60 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 17.0 60 min.
1.00 oz. Cascade - Iowa Whole 5.75 0.0 0 min.
1.00 oz. Cascade - Iowa Whole 5.75 0.0 Dry Hop


Extras

Amount Name Type Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 Tsp Amylase Enzyme Other 14 Days(fermenter)


Yeast
-----

Fermentis US-05 Safale


Water Profile
-------------

Profile:
Profile known for:

Calcium(Ca): 0.0 ppm
Magnesium(Mg): 0.0 ppm
Sodium(Na): 0.0 ppm
Sulfate(SO4): 0.0 ppm
Chloride(Cl): 0.0 ppm
biCarbonate(HCO3): 0.0 ppm

pH: 0.00


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain Lbs: 5.50
Water Qts: 7.43 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal: 1.86 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.35 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 147 Time: 90
Mash-out Rest Temp : 175 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 175 Time: 10


Total Mash Volume Gal: 2.30 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.



Notes
-----

The enzyme goes in the 2ndary - DON'T FORGET THIS!!!!

Awards
------

Served two types at the Des Moines Jimmy Carter Happy Hour both types laste
d about 75 minutes.



1st Batch All Cascade

2nd Batch Combination of Germ
an Noble Hops
Click to expand...

Aubie Stout said:
I started with an OG of 1.036. After a week in the secondary with a teaspoon of amylase enzyme, I am down to 1.003 (original FG before enzyme was 1.006). Should I give it another week to try and gain the extra 3 points or is it done and ready to bottle/keg?


Thanks. It tastes great BTW.
Click to expand...

Give it the 2nd week. The keg or bottle regardless of the gravity. It might hit something lower than 1.003 but don't let this stop you from bottling or kegging your beer.
 
I made this recently with lager yeast. I transferred to the secondary this week and added 1tsp of amalyze extract in secondary prior ti putting beer in secondary. I added the powdery extract straight in witiut dissolving it first.

Did i do this wrong, there has been no added activity like others have reported.

Also, there is about 1 or 2 inches at the very top of the secondary that is soooooooo crystal clear but a definite haze in the beer below it.

Will the whole beer drop clear like the first few inches?

It is in the secondary at 52 degrees.

Thanks for your help
 
Fredderick said:
Thanks...quick question...did i add the extract correctly by just adding it, by itself, into the secondary prior to transfering the beer

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, that is right... I've never done it, but I have read, and then re-read this post about three times :D and that is talked about, and stated that you just add the powder to the secondary and then rack on top of it.
 
dhammers91 said:
Yes, that is right... I've never done it, but I have read, and then re-read this post about three times :D and that is talked about, and stated that you just add the powder to the secondary and then rack on top of it.
Click to expand...

Awesome...thanks...once these posts get any higher than a couple pages I find it laborious to go through every page to find the needle in the hay stack.

Thanks again...just hoping this beer clears up in a couple weeks
 
Fredderick said:
Awesome...thanks...once these posts get any higher than a couple pages I find it laborious to go through every page to find the needle in the hay stack.

Thanks again...just hoping this beer clears up in a couple weeks
Click to expand...

Haha no problem, I don't blame you for not reading through everything! I don't know why I enjoy it so much! I can't stand reading anything else... I hope everything works out for you! I wish I could offer more insight, but unfortunately I haven't brewed this one yet... But it's definitely on my NTB list!
 
Bottled mine yesterday, it sure smelled better than BMC lite beers and it tasted pretty good for warm flat beer. I definitely think this will be a great lawnmower beer. I will almost definitely brew this a couple times a year for the warm months. If this turns out decent I think I will try Amylase in another style, I think a lite pale ale or a lite American wheat might be pretty good. Has anybody tried Amylase in another style?
 
Here's my update - I made this twice. The first time I kegged the whole batch, the second time I kegged half and bottled half.

I thoroughly enjoyed it in the keg, but I just started drinking the half I bottled on 1/19/13 and holy cow is it good! The dryness mellowed out very nicely and the whole profile really melded together and gave this beer a nice, subtle touch of complexity. My plan now is to make a few batches in the Spring months and bottle all of it for the Summer months.
 

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