Economy Kettle vs. Heavy Duty Kettle

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scottab

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I'm looking to buy an 8 gallon (32 qt) stainless steel kettle and don't know which is better, the economy or the tri-clad bottom heavy duty kettle.
More beer has a heavy duty kettle with 2 welded ports and a ball valve for 159 shipped while adventures in homebrewing has an economy 9 gallon kettle with 2 ports starting right now at 79 i believe, once you add the thermometer and the ball valve it brings it up to about 139 while on sale.

is there a big difference between heavy duty and economy kettles?
i know that the heat distribution on the heavy duty kettle is better but is this a major factor? has anyone gotten an economy kettle then moved up to the heavy duty one? price is part of my decision but i'd rather get quality with less options over saving the $$... getting a boilermaker or a polarware is not currently an option for me.
 
I have the morebeer 15 gallon size and I previously used a much thinner 8 gallon stainless pot.

I don't think it will make any difference in how your beer tastes.

The morebeer is built like a tank. It's very heavy and thick steel. But really the beer doesn't care. I'd go with the 9 gallon pot simply because it's bigger and you'll have more room to avoid a boilover. nobody likes boilovers ;)
 
IMO if you want a kettle with ports or even think you might add ports one day, go heavy. If you just want a big pot to boil in, go a cheap as want. A thin wall kettle with welded or press fit connections is bound to give you troubles in the long run and you'll find yourself spending that money again later when you get fed up and replace it. just my 2 cents....
 
IMO if you want a kettle with ports or even think you might add ports one day, go heavy. If you just want a big pot to boil in, go a cheap as want. A thin wall kettle with welded or press fit connections is bound to give you troubles in the long run and you'll find yourself spending that money again later when you get fed up and replace it. just my 2 cents....

I have to disagree with this. When you say "it's bound to give you troubles" what do you mean? Also press fit? Nobody press fits fittings in.

The tri-clad kettles are about 1.2mm thick. The 'economy' kettles are about 1mm thick. We've stocked both and I've personally cut through both and couldn't tell the difference in thickness. I could tell the difference in an actual economy kettle that was .6mm thick though.

The heat distributions thing is pretty much a marketing ploy which is meaningless when brewing.

I would be the less expensive 10 times outta 10. It'll last just as long and will actually heat up faster than the thicker bottom and is much lighter. Although wouldn't you rather buy our kettle with fittings that were welded on in the USA and not China like the competitors ;) ha ha

Good luck with the purchase!! :mug:
 
Are you brewing extract or all grain? What are you using for your heat source?
 
I think the welded fittings on the thinner pot will hold up just fine. I had welded fittings on a thin wall pot and I can't imagine them failing under normal hombrew use. Steel is very strong stuff. Even the thin pots are plenty durable for homebrewing. I think the blichmann pots are fairly thin wall and they seam to hold up just fine.
 
Ajgeo said:
Are you brewing extract or all grain? What are you using for your heat source?

Currently kitchen gas stove eventually maybe propane. Only extract for now but want to get into all grain.
 
SpikeBrewing said:
I have to disagree with this. When you say "it's bound to give you troubles" what do you mean? Also press fit? Nobody press fits fittings in.

The tri-clad kettles are about 1.2mm thick. The 'economy' kettles are about 1mm thick. We've stocked both and I've personally cut through both and couldn't tell the difference in thickness. I could tell the difference in an actual economy kettle that was .6mm thick though.

The heat distributions thing is pretty much a marketing ploy which is meaningless when brewing.

I would be the less expensive 10 times outta 10. It'll last just as long and will actually heat up faster than the thicker bottom and is much lighter. Although wouldn't you rather buy our kettle with fittings that were welded on in the USA and not China like the competitors ;) ha ha

Good luck with the purchase!! :mug:

If the price is right i'd much rather made in the usa
 
I have to disagree with this. When you say "it's bound to give you troubles" what do you mean? Also press fit? Nobody press fits fittings in.

The tri-clad kettles are about 1.2mm thick. The 'economy' kettles are about 1mm thick. We've stocked both and I've personally cut through both and couldn't tell the difference in thickness. I could tell the difference in an actual economy kettle that was .6mm thick though.


I believe what I'm calling an economy kettle is different than what your referring to. Some are thin enough to have a slight deflection when only moderate force is applied. Still fully capable to boil wort in, but with a welded port with a rigid ball valve attached I would would worry about the kettle and/or weld integrity. By press fit connection I referring to the weld less fittings (compression fit?).
At any rate, you sell em, so I'm sure you know what certain equipment will take and what it wont.
In the end, I feel if you buy quality, You'll never regret it. If it can be had a lower cost, even better!
 
I'm looking to buy an 8 gallon (32 qt) stainless steel kettle and don't know which is better, the economy or the tri-clad bottom heavy duty kettle.
More beer has a heavy duty kettle with 2 welded ports and a ball valve for 159 shipped while adventures in homebrewing has an economy 9 gallon kettle with 2 ports starting right now at 79 i believe, once you add the thermometer and the ball valve it brings it up to about 139 while on sale.

is there a big difference between heavy duty and economy kettles?
i know that the heat distribution on the heavy duty kettle is better but is this a major factor? has anyone gotten an economy kettle then moved up to the heavy duty one? price is part of my decision but i'd rather get quality with less options over saving the $$... getting a boilermaker or a polarware is not currently an option for me.

OK, my 2c. The HLT doesn't matter which. The MLT, unless you are direct firing, doesn't matter, but the BK does matter. Get the thickest, heaviest, bestest, tripple bottomest pot you can afford. At present, IMO, Megapot makes the best. No scorching is what you are after.
 
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