Need help beer is coming out foamy on first pour

i installed a tower cooler 80mm fan in my keezer and its blowing cold air onto the shanks just great. i thought if i installed the tower cooler the foamy first pour will go away but its still there. the whole tower is sweating cold but my per lick faucets are not sweating cold are they supposed to be???? and the first pore i make is still foamy i don't know whats going on after i make the first pore the faucet is ice cold??? can anyone please help me out??? the co2 pressure is not that high either its at 8 psi. and my keezer is at 36 deg

Do you happen to have the keezer outside? I see Azusa has been running pretty toasty lately.

How long are your beer lines? Your setup might just be on the edge of having more significant "break-out" problems.

You can mitigate the problem you're having by pouring an ounce or two into your glass, then shut the faucet and wait for a handful of seconds while the cold beer chills the faucet. Then pour the rest of your pint.

The faucets on my indoors keezer tower will occasionally sweat (I have a 40mm cooler) but they're still a good 20-30°F warmer than the beer that hits them, so there's more to it than just chilled Perlicks...

Cheers!

i have the standard lines that came with my tower conversion kit and think they are 5 foot long. i purchased it at beverage factory. the keezer is inside my room. what i have been doing is having a empty arrowhead bottle close to me pouring it out for a second into the plastic bottle and when the faucet gets really cold i pour myself a pint. but i don't want to go threw that hassle doing that and wasting beer especially when friends come and try to pour a pint and there getting foam. there has to be a way to fix this problem and i thought the tower cooler would do it. also i buy expensive craft beer and want to save every drop you know.

And there it is: five foot beer lines. Odds are you're on the hairy edge of more than just initial pour problems.

Swap them for 10 footers.

Cheers!

Try lower pressure or longer lines or both. Mine ar 10' long and I serve at at 6-8 psi.

10' beer lines! seriously? My dual tower has maybe 16" long, pushing between 5-7 psi, and i get perfect foam. I do notice a little foamage towards the very end of my cornies. Are 10' lines normal?

wow so you think that a 10 foot long beer line will do the trick ?? i was talking to some one else and they told me to get a crome plated or brass shank also with the per lick crome or brass and that will solve the problem is that true???? why would i 10 foot beer line be better???

I agree on changing to 10 foot lines. All my foam issue went away after I went to longer lines

10' lines is pretty normal for the average beer. Longer for highly carbed styles.

I'd suggest chilling the faucet, but it sounds like you are already doing that.

I have a bit of foam when I pour the first glass. It's usually somewhere in the vicinity of like 2 ounces. I usually grab a very small glass and catch the first few seconds, then swap for the real glass. Once the whole faucet is cold it's no problem. Most good bars will "waste" the first portion of the pour if they haven't served in the last few minutes.

wow 10 foot lines will be better i will fur shure try that. can i buy those lines at home depot or do i have to go through beverage factory or micromatic to get them

Im running maybe foot and a half lines... no foam problems..... also im at 12psi...

I had foam problems went with 5 foot smaller diameter lines and it fixed the problem, had to jam them on the hookups

You will want to get beer line from lhbs or online. As some of the home depot stuff is thinner wall and will cause foaming issues as well.

Here is a link that can help calculate beer line lengths.

http://bloatariandotcom.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/beer-line-length-and-pressure-calculator.xls

de3isit said:

Here is a link that can help calculate beer line lengths.

http://bloatariandotcom.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/beer-line-length-and-pressure-calculator.xls

Click to expand...

Those calculators don't always factor in all variables, and are often a little off. They also calculate the minimum length that you can use without foaming issues. Longer lines don't have any negative side effects, and give you a little cushion in case you want to increase the beer temp or carb level at some point in the future.

brewskiman said:

wow 10 foot lines will be better i will fur shure try that. can i buy those lines at home depot or do i have to go through beverage factory or micromatic to get them

Click to expand...

Check your lhbs, they should have it.
If they don't and you want it soon, there's a place in Northridge that sells it. It's called Tavern Service and is off of Parthenia. I'm sure there's probably someplace a little closer to you also, but I'm not too familiar with any of the shops in your area.

I'm also having similar issues to the OP, and have five foot lines. The tower lines have crimped on adapters for mounting to Sankey D style couplers. Can I just splice in additional line length using barb fittings?

ThatGeekGuy said:

I'm also having similar issues to the OP, and have five foot lines. The tower lines have crimped on adapters for mounting to Sankey D style couplers. Can I just splice in additional line length using barb fittings?

Click to expand...

Take the crimps off, get a couple of hose clamps and just replace all of the line. It'd probably be cheaper to just replace it all anyway than to buy barb fittings to splice it together.

Dave,
I'll give it a look, these crimps are integral to the adapters and will need to be cut off (if possible). Does make more sense than splicing though.

With the notable exception of installing "choker" lines, splicing beer lines is not recommended, as a splice will cause turbulence that can cause CO2 break-out...

Cheers!