Budget Bar Build

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PurpleJeepXJ

Ah... Leafy Goodness
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So everyday I check the DIY forum to get new ideas and always see someone with a 'bar build'. Many of those seem to have either a high to no budget involved. Well about 4mo ago my fiancee and I bought our first house and ever since then I have been itching to build a bar. Well I have set a budget for myself of $300. My plan is to build an "L" shaped bar 5' deep, 6' long, and 44-45" tall (I am 6'3" so I like a taller bar top). The framing will be pine. Probably birch or similar for bar front. The bar top, rail and all trim will be red oak. My goal is to build a solid quality bar. Lets see...:mug:

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Looks good so far. I also like a tall bar, there is a bar near Key West (No Name Pub, Big Pine Key) that has a very tall bar and very tall bar stools, which is awesome, until you have a few pints and try to go to the bathroom.
 
So I need some recommendations on what material to use for my bar front. I was thinking 1/4" Birch Plywood, What do y'all think? How well would that stain?
 
So I need some recommendations on what material to use for my bar front. I was thinking 1/4" Birch Plywood, What do y'all think? How well would that stain?

Very nice job so far! Birch plywood is an excellent choice and is a hard wood, so is the red oak plywood, especially select pieces that have all the grain pattern and character. You may find some mahogany but the cost might blow your budget.
 
I think I will go with the birch ply. I have been messing around on making my own bar rail and I would like to try and make some out of an oak true 2x4; but my crappy table saw and router have been failing me so far. That's right it is the machines' fault and not user error:drunk:
 
I'd consider using a thicker plywood for the bar front. 1/2" at the very least, 3/4" being ideal. If someone bumped into or accidentally kicked 1/4" ply it may bow and/or make a thud that will sound hollow or cheap. If you want this to last and be a quality piece of furniture I'd use a heavier grade plywood for quality.
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kramebar-basement-build-242764/

This cost me about $500, but included some pricey tools.

It's about 12'L x 3W' x 4.5'H.

The top is 3/4" beech ply, the front is 3/4" pine board, framed on pine 2x4. It's built like a brick sh!thouse and has taken its fair share of beatings during parties. All the wood stained nicely and I threw about 4 coats of poly on it all.

I need to find some caps for the corners though. I think I may cut some 1/4 beech planks at 45s at install with finishing nails.
 
I'd consider using a thicker plywood for the bar front. 1/2" at the very least, 3/4" being ideal. If someone bumped into or accidentally kicked 1/4" ply it may bow and/or make a thud that will sound hollow or cheap. If you want this to last and be a quality piece of furniture I'd use a heavier grade plywood for quality.

I would second this. I would also look for some wood conditioner for the plywood. This helps to ensure that the stain will be absorbed evenly across the face, and not blotch up on you. Plywood is only as good as you want to spend. B/C that you'll find at the big box places can be pretty uneven at times.
 
+1 on a good application of stain conditioner and picking out good wood.

i spent a few hours going through every piece of pine board and plywood they had.
 
+1 on a good application of stain conditioner and picking out good wood.

i spent a few hours going through every piece of pine board and plywood they had.

I think the wood department guys hate me at my local Lowes/Home Depot. I tear apart piles looking for the best/truest boards with the nicest grain I can find. I had a pallet of 1/8" birch plywood half unstacked looking for 2 matching pieces for a cabinet I was building...
 
So I decided to use some 1/2" ply that comes from Hungary. The guy from my local lumber yard said its is a European type of birch. It was only $22/sheet and had a fairly nice grain. I bought some Cabot stain and went to town. 2 coats of stain and 2 coats of poly and this is what the results were...

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@ Steber
I too thought it was sketchy of hell when I first heard of cove cutting on a table saw. But it is safe and efficient if you take your time and do about 1/16" at a time.

@ Captainoverspray
It took about 30 passes

@ Khkman22
All of Augusta National is a beautiful place
 
Very nice job on the cove. I've found it is a bit easier if your direction of feed is angled slightly to the blade. In other words, not perpendicular.

That said. You'll be proud to have buddies around a bar that you built yourself. You get extra points on your man card.
 
Yeah... definitely need to angle the approach to the blade. even with my shop vac running I was having to clean the dust from behind the blade after every pass. Maybe I just need a bigger shop vac system :ban:
 
Here is great video that will help anyone else that would like to attempt this cove on their table saw.
 
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Really nice build, going to look good in the spot, in the house when it is done. I also like the color and wood combo.
 
Lookin good! Hopefully I'll get a chance to renovate my basement in a few years, and when I do I plan on doing a built in bar. I love seeing how you guys here on HBT do your builds to get idea's. That cove cutting on a table saw would save a LOT of money on bar rail...
 
By my estimate pre-made unstained red oak bar rail would have cost me $280, after shipping, for the amount needed. I made mine for around $130. That's $8.13/ft rather than $17.50/ft. Thanks for all the comments :mug: . I am looking to finish this weekend and I will total all my costs.
 
Very nice build man! Can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks for sharing!
 
what type of trim did you use on the back side? The same bar rail you made or did you do something different?

When I cut the stepped portions out of the bar rail I ended up with (2) 3/4"x2" and (2) 3/4"x1" strips. I used these to the trim on the back side of the bar total 20'. I then made some shoe and quarter round out of the remaining strips from the shorter step for a total of 16'. I bought another true 2"x6"x8' plank and made 16' of 3/4 qtr rnd, 16' of 2"x1" base board, and 64' of 3/8"x1" strips to cover seems and corners. More pictures to come.
 
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