Stc-1000
- Thread starter jordanIPA
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
CGVT
Senior Member
Don't know about any videos, but this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-fish-tank-controller-build-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/ makes the build pretty much idiot proof. If you read a page of so into it there are pictures with the wires numbered. It was so easy even I could do it.
ClunkClunk
Well-Known Member
That's the basics of it.
Because it's "Dual Stage" it means that it can control both a heating device and a cooling device. On the STC-1000, you set a desired temperature (in Celsius) and an amount of variance from that desired temperature before either plug is turned on, and it does the work of turning on the cooling or heating device as necessary.
Because it's "Dual Stage" it means that it can control both a heating device and a cooling device. On the STC-1000, you set a desired temperature (in Celsius) and an amount of variance from that desired temperature before either plug is turned on, and it does the work of turning on the cooling or heating device as necessary.
Here you go -
Also helpful -
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/
With the help of that HBT thread and YouTube vid, I've built two of these and have a third one due to arrive tomorrow for my plan to have a lagering/cold crash chamber.
No worries. That is a good question to ask. Once you build the controller box, you will have two outlets that are controlled by the STC-1000. One is for cooling - plug the freezer into that. The other is for warming - plug some type of heat source into that and put the heat source inside the freezer. I use one of these - http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html
Once you have it all plugged in and set the desired temp (in Celsius) on the STC-1000, it will send power as needed to either the freezer or the heater to maintain that temp.
Here's the first one that I put together -
If you have any more questions, ask away. That's what this forum is here for.
Also helpful -
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/
With the help of that HBT thread and YouTube vid, I've built two of these and have a third one due to arrive tomorrow for my plan to have a lagering/cold crash chamber.
No worries. That is a good question to ask. Once you build the controller box, you will have two outlets that are controlled by the STC-1000. One is for cooling - plug the freezer into that. The other is for warming - plug some type of heat source into that and put the heat source inside the freezer. I use one of these - http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html
Once you have it all plugged in and set the desired temp (in Celsius) on the STC-1000, it will send power as needed to either the freezer or the heater to maintain that temp.
Here's the first one that I put together -
If you have any more questions, ask away. That's what this forum is here for.
Last edited by a moderator:
JoppaFarms
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2012
- Messages
- 378
- Reaction score
- 31
I built mine using the original plug from the fridge. I had to add a single wire from the neutral line at the fridge's external junction box to the inside of the fridge to connect to the STC-1000's power connections, but it was simple. The STC-1000 has an ON/OFF function, so when the unit is off, so is the fridge/heater. To me, it seemed like a much more in depth (and unnecessary extra work) to build an external temperature control box, but to each his own. I just cut a hole in the door and sealed it with caulking around the unit. Here are some pictures.
CGVT
Senior Member
That is is exactly how it works. I have my refrigerator plugged into the cold side and I have a lamp that I have inside the fridge plugged into the heat side.
When I first set it up. I drilled a hole through the side of the fridge for the probe (don't do that if you are using a freezer) and just closed the door on the cord to the lamp. I later drilled a hole for the lamp cord and cut it and spliced it back together.
I like that install. Very clean. I'm currently trying to figure out the best way to do something similar (direct wiring, no outlet box) for my keezer since it's in my game room set at 39*F and will never have the need for a heater.
The reason I built my first two with the project boxes/dual outlets is that both were used in places where it can and does get cold in winter. Having the external boxes with both heat and cool plugs gives me greater portability and flexibility. For example, the chest freezer that is now my keezer and clad in solid oak used to be my fermenter chamber out on the garage.
CGVT
Senior Member
For me, it made sense to follow the directions step by step so I didn't screw it up.
I didn't understand a word that USMC Payne wrote.
The external build that Misplace Canuck did and explained made it so someone that is an absolute idiot (me) when it comes to wiring could wire it.
There are a lot of us out here, btw
I didn't understand a word that USMC Payne wrote.
The external build that Misplace Canuck did and explained made it so someone that is an absolute idiot (me) when it comes to wiring could wire it.
There are a lot of us out here, btw
JoppaFarms
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2012
- Messages
- 378
- Reaction score
- 31
HAHAHA, well, I understand that what I think is easy may not be so easy (I am an electrical engineer according to my degree though I don't use it any longer).
Step 1 - remove thermostat from inside fridge
Step 2 - cut hole in door
Step 3 - wire existing wires from thermostat to STC-1000
Step 4 - add wire from fridge plug neutral to STC-1000
Step 5 - caulk
Step 6 - turn on & ferment
Doesn't get much easier than that in my book. Took me about 2 hours total time to remove shelving and door panels, measure and cut the door hole, bend the freezer section, caulk it in and fire it up.
Babybatch
Well-Known Member
Being that the interior of that door is flat it sure seems like that fridge is well suited for that. Or did you also remove part of the interior of the that fridge door? What model fridge is that? Also... what method did you use for cutting?
I'm not much of a handy man. In fact my one stint in the construction business as a tile setter earned me the nickname, "Destructo Danny"
Seems like you would just drill some holes at the corners and then connect the dots with a reciprocating saw or something.
JoppaFarms
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2012
- Messages
- 378
- Reaction score
- 31
I removed the interior panel by taking out the screws. That is a piece of whiteboard panel I bought from Lowes to replace the shelving in the door. It's a Haier fridge I think. I did the connect the dots thing and used a dremel with a cutting wheel. Pretty easy build really.
LosBarbonesBrewingCo
Well-Known Member
Reviving a very old thread to see if @JoppaFarms is still around and can provide more details on how he wired this Danby DCR412W fridge. I have the exact same fridge and am looking to do the same thing.
Thanks.
Similar threads
