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csacannoneer

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im wanting step into the.realm of mead but don't want to tackle any super complicated recipes nor wish to make any of this so called "cheat mead" anyone out there with a good simple recipe for a first timer
 
First thing you need to do is figure out how strong you want to make it, and how much you want to make. That will determine how much honey you'll need.

Depending on the strength and the temperatures where you ferment, select a yeast from the Lalvin selection. Use the mead calculation tool from the Got Mead web site to help get an idea of how much honey to use for the batch. Keep in mind, they're talking TOTAL volume, so don't add that much water to the mix.

Once you have it all mixed, you'll want to add things like yeast energizer and/or yeast nutrient to the must to help the yeast along. You really shouldn't need to do anything else for that aspect.

Now, for the actual honey to use, you want to pick something strong in flavor so that it remains when finished. Also, don't heat the mix above 100-110F or you will start to lose a lot of what makes the honey, and mead, great.

Something else to keep in mind, mead takes a LOT longer than beer. When you make a batch of mead, expect it to be in vessel for 9-12 months, or longer. My 'low ABV' batches (~14%) go at least 9 months in bulk form before going to bottle. I'd rather they went a solid year though.
 
thanks i made an effort once at it just a gallon batch with mandrin oranges and apricots I'm not even gonna describe the results lol i used it for weed killer
 
As I am sure has been mentioned countless times on this forum, The Compleat Meadmaker by Ken Schramm is insanely helpful for starting out.

I just started last month myself and made the simplest of meads right out of page 25 of that book; honey, water, yeast, energizer, and nutrients. I tried it when I racked it from the primary ferment bucket to the carboy and the flavor was insanely good (still mighty sweet though, I am hoping it calms down a bit over time).

I think the book is worth buying; tons of good info and some good suggestions for progressions.
 
Problem with that book is it's seriously out of date. Even Ken has commented about that (on the Got Mead forums). A good amount of what's in there is no longer valid. Ken has also commented that there won't be an updated release (last I heard at least) due to the publisher not being interested.

SO, go to the Got Mead forums, or use more current methods. Such as NOT racking until the mead is actually done fermenting.
 
Personally, I wouldn't recommend any fruit/berry meads or anything spiced. Just get a taste for plain mead, and if you don't like it - flavor it. But on the other hand, fruits and berries makes it a whole lot easier to ferment.

Mix water and honey until you hit a good OG, add yeast and/or nutrients. Ferment, rack, clear, age and all that. No idea of your brewing experience, so either keep asking questions or read up. If you're used to just making beer, though, I have one thing to say: it will ferment completely dry if you've got a strong yeast and a "low" OG.

Edit: Accually... I'd suggest two batches. One JOAM following the recipe completely, and another 1 gallon of plain mead. 1 gallon batches aren't that expensive and they don't take up much space anyway.

And not to mention, good luck and have fun.
 
Onihige said:
add yeast and/or nutrients

You really need both....



I've been asked quite a bit recently about making mead, seems people are getting more and more curious and want an alternative to wine and beer.

What I have been telling them is similar to what Onihige said. Start with two one gallon batches, a JAOM, followed to the letter, it's a simple inexpensive set it and forget it recipe (although I didn't make one til I was 8-9 batches of mead into the obsession). Then make a traditional honey/water/yeast/nutrient recipe with a decent honey. This way they learn the basics of good sanitization, mixing the must, rehydration of yeast, oxygenation, using a hydrometer, staggered nutrients, and daily aeration for first 1/3. Plus this let's them see what a simple clean recipe tastes like and looks like through all of the different stages.

The reason I recommend the one gallon batches is ease of handling, space and upfront cost, set up for 2, 1 gallon batches, equipment wise can be done for around $40 or less and it can all be used over and over even when they start making larger batches.
 
talking of O.G what would be a good baseline to go with in other words what.would best as a minimum
 
Depends on your yeast, look up various yeast strains. See what temperatures they ferment at, and when they start to produce off flavors and how much alcohol they can handle. I started out with ale yeast, and... well, I did not know much at all about how yeast worked back then... it was a learning experience. Especially since the recipe I was given was for a 5% mead, and with no mention of how yeast works.

At first I was like "Ugh, this tastes sour..." so I thought I'd back sweeten it... "WHY WON'T IT STOP FERMENTING?!?!" xD

Edit: Took it upon myself to write a simple FAQ where that recipe was given, later on. Though no one seems to be reading it...
 
csacannoneer said:
talking of O.G what would be a good baseline to go with in other words what.would best as a minimum

It really depends on the end product you want, if you're looking for a higher abv% or a sweeter finish you'll want a higher OG and then choose the appropriate yeast that will end up where you want to finish.

Just be careful because it is possible to have too much sugar, on the high end 1.14-1.15 is pretty good, over that and the yeast have trouble getting started without a lot of tlc
 
i hate to sound like a total dum dum but the only yeast i have direct local access to is either red star or muntons ale yeasts resepectively which would provide the cleaner finish im guessing muntons as ive trolled a few.threads to gather info and see more often than not the mention of the usage of ale yeast
 
I haven't used Munton, but Coopers ale yeast in mead. A bit too spicy for mead IMHO, but interesting. Fermented to 15%, which really suprised me at that time. Haven't seen Red Star in Sweden.
 
i used red star cuvee from the beginning of my homebrewing to incredible results my friends cant get enough of my loaded fuzzy navel my concord grape and white grape raspberry have been bunker busters too
 
Problem with that book is it's seriously out of date. Even Ken has commented about that (on the Got Mead forums). A good amount of what's in there is no longer valid. Ken has also commented that there won't be an updated release (last I heard at least) due to the publisher not being interested.

SO, go to the Got Mead forums, or use more current methods. Such as NOT racking until the mead is actually done fermenting.

Thanks for the insight, I obviously still have a ton of reading to do! :)
 
I think it is important that you need to realize that you can do a lot with honey, water and yeast. You can add spices, herbs, and fruits. I started with the one that many start with JMAO---used a good quality local wildflower honey---followed the instructions to a "T" and hated it. Ended up up adding chocolate at the end and now have something I enjoy. They key: find what you will enjoy (and use a good quality honey)!

But when I made my absolute first batch of Raspberry Melomel I was in heaven! Friends went crazy for it, a good GF and her fiance' asked me to make it for their beach wedding (which was last weekend and not one drop of 5 gallons remains). So here is my recipe in a 1-gallon batch format:

Recipe for 1 gallon batch

2 pounds frozen red raspberries, thawed
2 11oz containers 100% fruit Apple-Raspberry frozen concentrate, thawed
Honey (have 5 pounds on hand...use 2 pounds initially & add more as needed to reach target starting S.G.)
2 tsp pectic enzyme
1/8 tsp yeast nutrient (with yeast starter and Day3)
1/8 tsp yeast energizer (on Day 3, Day 5 and Day 7)
1 gallon distilled water (added in 64oz-32oz-32oz increments)
Red Star® Côte des Blancs (ferment temp 64F-86F) or Premier Cuvee (ferment temp 45F-95F)

k-meta
potassium sorbate

It is a given that cleaning AND sanitization of all equipment has been completed before starting.

1. In a non-aluminum container heat 64 ounces of distilled water so it is just warm enough for 2 pounds of the honey to dissolve, remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. DO NOT BOIL THE HONEY-WATER.

2. While the honey-water is cooling, place the thawed/room temperature berries in the bottom of your primary container (use a wide mouth container with at least 1.5 times the volume of your finished wine, as this allows large surface area for yeast to access oxygen, ease of stirring & excess headspace in the case of a violent fermentation with a lot of foaming). When the honey-water is room temperature add to the primary and then add the concentrate, pectic enzyme and 0.14 grams of potassium metabisulfite. Add 32 ounces of room temperature distilled water. Stir quite well. Document the SG reading & temperature (remember you should be close to/at room temperature at this time). Cover to keep foreign matter out and allow this to rest for 24 hours.

3. After 24 hours, check the S.G.....add 28 ounces of room temperature distilled water & add additional honey to reach a S.G. of 1.085-1.095. A rough estimate is that 1/2 cup of honey will increase the S.G. of one gallon by 0.010.

4. Make a yeast starter by pouring the remainder of your gallon of water---4 ounces (120 mL) of lukewarm distilled water plus 1 tablespoon of honey into a bowl. Sprinkle in the yeast and yeast nutrient and let proliferate for 30 minutes. Add the yeast starter to the must and stir well. Cover the container to keep foreign matter out, but allow air exchange. THIS IS DAY #1.

5. While in the primary container you will want to stir from the bottom of the container for 2-3 minutes each morning/evening--stir gently, but strongly enough that you actually notice a whirlpool develop; during this time you will want to "punch down" any fruit that is floating. Don't forget to take a hydrometer reading at the same time each day & document the S.G. and temperature plus any notes you would like to recall for future batches. Stir in 1/8th teaspoon of the yeast nutrient on Day 3 & 1/8th teaspoon of yeast energizer on Day#3-#5-#7. Do not panic if while in the primary the wine develops a rotten egg smell, the wine needs more oxygen--open primary and stir well for 2-3 minutes, creating a gentle whirlpool OR transfer to a different primary and back to original primary. The intermittent addition of nutrient/energizer will also help ensure the health and wellness of the yeast.

**Remove the raspberries no later than Day 4 (Day 1 is the day the yeast was added)**

6. When the specific gravity has reached 1.020 or lower (commonly occurs within 3-5 days), it’s time to rack the wine off of the sediment into a clean, sanitized carboy. If the berries have not yet been removed from the must, remove at this time--do NOT transfer the fruit to the secondary. Siphon the must from the fermentation container into a clean sanitized glass carboy and fill up to the lip of the carboy. Insert a sanitized rubber bung and airlock into the container opening. **You SHOULD have more than 1 gallon of mead, so it is recommended that you put the extra wine in wine bottles which will serve as the carboy. If you don't have bungs/airlocks for wine bottles you can use a latex balloon (it will inflate as the CO2 is produced, when the balloon deflates it typically means that CO2 is no longer being produced). The wine from the wine bottle carboy will be used for "topping up" during future racking.
Again, do NOT panic if you notice a "rotten egg" smell in the carboy---remove the bung and stir the wine well, creating a mild whirlpool, for 2-3 minutes, and then gently transfer, preferably with a siphon hose, to another container and then back to the original carboy and secure the airlock. This "splash racking" helps resolve this issue. Some people even clean/sanitize 3-5 copper pennies per gallon and place them in the bottom of the receiving carboy--transfer wine to this carboy with pennies--and then transfer the wine back to the original carboy. (A piece of clean/sanitized copper tubing with the wine splash racking onto it will serve the same purpose). Just do not leave the copper in the wine.

7. Place the wine in an area where the temperature is maintained at the lower side of the temperature range indicated for the yeast you are using. In 4 weeks rack off any sediment and transfer to a clean, sanitized carboy, apply airlock. Do the same thing with the extra wine in the wine bottle carboy(s)--and you can use this wine to "top up" your gallon carboy. Document the S.G. readings of the wine at this time. Remember, when there is no change in the S.G. reading for three consecutive days at 70F your "FINAL S.G." can now be documented. (The temperature, starting S.G. and final S.G. will help you calculate the alcohol content (http://dd26943.com/davesdreaded/tools/convert.htm).

8. After the racking at the four-week point in #7 you will have to rack a few more times before complete clearing is evident; just repeat the steps in #7 (except now you will rack every 60-90 days). You also will not need to monitor the S.G. once you have determined the FINAL S.G.

9. To maintain adequate SO2 levels, at least once in a 90 day time frame, dose the wine with 0.14 grams of potassium metabisulfite. If you rack the wine every 90 days, then you can dose with k-meta at the same time. Note: If this were an all honey mead (with no fruit) I would not even use SO2, but since there is a fruit component involved I prefer to use a light hand where the SO2 is concerned.

9. When the wine is crystal clear and no longer dropping sediment after being racked, proceed with back-sweetening. Add 0.14 grams of potassium metabisulfite PLUS 1.4 grams (1/2 teaspoon) of potassium sorbate to your clear/sediment-free gallon of wine and then back-sweeten to taste...1.015 is a favorite for this melomel. Remember that 1/2 cup sugar will increase the S.G. of one gallon by 0.010...honey is usually the same. Clear bottles are recommended to properly showcase the beautiful color of the wine. Filtering is optional.

This recipe has consistently been ready to serve as early as 7 months from the time you started it; but it consistently gets better as it ages. Amazing with a shot of Godiva Chocolate Liqueur or premium vodka added, but delicious as it is!
 
I am rather intrigued, reading the Raspberry recipe above..

Rookie question: how much yeast are you using for the one gallon batch? Assumptions are the mother of all F-ups :D
 
at mr. sweet im basing this on a conventional wine benchmark but usually a yeast pack like what red star comes in is enough yeast for up to 5 gallons i usually when i made gallon runs would use the whole pack
 
Speaking of recommended newbie recipes, I'm doing a cyser vartiant of JOAM. It was a spur of the moment thing, so I just threw everything together.

Baking yeast (just a pinch)
Leftover liquid honey I usually use for cooking/baking
1 unknown apple (it occured to me after a while not all apples might be suitable) which I cut into pieces
30 grams (28 grams is 1 oz) of raisins
Two 4-ish cm (1 inch is 2.5 cm) cinnamon sticks which might've been a tad too much in retrospect.
Ca 1.5 liter of water

Fermented all this in a 2 liter Coke bottle.

It fermented dry after 3 days, so I added more honey and pressed some juice from another apple. It's currently in the fridge, letting all the stuff sink to the bottom. I had a taste, when I was checking if it was dry, and it tasted awesome.

This is, hands down, the cheapest mead I've ever done. But then again, I got a lot of this for free so maybe it doesn't count?

Also, doing small batches is great for many reasons - especially for newbies. But it has two huge drawbacks. One being that if you only get 2-3 bottles from the whole batch you're gonna have to hit the ageing just right when opening the bottles. And you run out too quickly! But you could always conteract the first issue by using small beer bottles.
 
IME/IMO, you're better off making simple batches initially. Go with a traditional batch, or a simple melomel when you're starting off (or both). Then, once you KNOW what you're doing, branch out into other things. IMO, without a solid knowledge baseline, you're more prone to making noob mistakes.

BTW, I would never consider (for a nanosecond) using BREAD yeast in a mead.

Also, mead really is a case of quality in, quality out. If you go with cheap, low grade, ingredients, you're (99% chance) going to get something unpleasant at the finish. If you're investing the time needed to do this right, do yourself a favor and also invest in quality ingredients. I'm not saying go buy the more/most expensive stuff, but get the best quality you can.
 
i made the mistake of using baking yeast in my very first batch of hard cider this was before i discovered my second home my local homebrew shop they are just a basic shop yeasts sugar etc other than that they are a feed and farm supply but the knowledge ive gathered from them helped immensely
 
i made the mistake of using baking yeast in my very first batch of hard cider this was before i discovered my second home my local homebrew shop they are just a basic shop yeasts sugar etc other than that they are a feed and farm supply but the knowledge ive gathered from them helped immensely

Look at the info on the Got Mead site and forums about yeast strains for mead... There's a LOT of info there. You can also look at what people make and how they proceed on the forums. The information there (on the forums) reflects more up to date methods than in books or most other sites.
 
BTW, I would never consider (for a nanosecond) using BREAD yeast in a mead.

Normally, me neither. But after having a taste of the unfinished product, I'm gonna have to say I'm pleasantly suprised. Tried it once in a plain mead, and it was HORRIBLE. But with a scientific mind, one result is never enough - and you have to make sure what others tell you are true.

I'm already planning a full batch version, using proper yeast.

Also, I'm guessing, there's bread yeast... and bread yeast.
 
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