Brewhardware new RIMS tube

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fur_252

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
54
Reaction score
8
Location
Ainsworth
Can't wait to get my hands on this puppy!!

http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts/169-newrims#addcomments

image-97477110.jpg
 
Yup, I've been waiting anxiously myself. Bobby's a cool dude and runs a great website, so I decided to trust that the wait will be worth it.
 
I e-mailed him the exact question back in April when I was building my RIMS tube. He said right around $100. I'm predicting: $109.99:D
 
One thing I want to mention is that when I threw out the $99 ballpark, it was basically going to be as pictured but with a basic 1" NPSL adapter on the other end leaving the user to figure out the electrical enclosure. That may still be an option, but the production units will have the enclosure taken care of along with a cord grip/strain relief and two mounting points. Right now, the best price on this total configuration that I can find out there is $210 (if you want to mount it to a stand). I will be beating that by at least $50 for the full assembly.
 
One thing I want to mention is that when I threw out the $99 ballpark, it was basically going to be as pictured but with a basic 1" NPSL adapter on the other end leaving the user to figure out the electrical enclosure. That may still be an option, but the production units will have the enclosure taken care of along with a cord grip/strain relief and two mounting points. Right now, the best price on this total configuration that I can find out there is $210 (if you want to mount it to a stand). I will be beating that by at least $50 for the full assembly.

Will there be an option to add mounting studs to this new design as well, or is that up to us?
 
I'm figuring on making mounting studs standard. The two TC end clamps will have an M8 nut welded on and I was planning to include a pair of M8 bolts and nuts. I thought it was a pretty cool way to do it rather than use separate hanger clamps. Good in theory anyway. I'll confirm when I get the clamps in.
 
I can't wait to get one of these babies! Thanks for the picture update on the site! It was just the taste that I needed to curb my craving until the 15th!
 
OK, I'm just messing with you guys. For real though, these are better than I was even hoping for. The "BrewHardware.com" text on the second picture is actually laser etched and I mention that because it looks like a photoshopped overlay. You'll see that I went with a very nice cord grip with built in strain relief and there's a solid grounding location within the enclosure. I plan to supply the three crimp on ring terminals and some heat shrink. I like crimping my terminals onto the wire AND soldering for good connections.

You supply the temp sensor, element and cable/cords and GFCI outlets.

I'm getting closer to knowing the price. I know it's what's on everyone's mind.

rimsfull.jpg


rimsetch.jpg


rimshousing.jpg
 
Jiminy Cricket! Will you sell the head separate from the tube? I've got a sight glass that is to cool to give up, but your hardware makes me want to sell my gear and up grade!
 
I'm curious if the element housing can be purchased separately and adapted for use in keggle/kettles. Are there any plans for this?
 
I'm getting one!!!! Hey bobby, wondering what time on the 15th they are going to be for sale?? Just wondering so I'm not lurking on ur site every 15 minutes to see if they are for sale yet.
 
Jiminy Cricket! Will you sell the head separate from the tube? I've got a sight glass that is to cool to give up, but your hardware makes me want to sell my gear and up grade!

Wow I did not understand that... How are a sight glass and a RIMS tube mutually exclusive?
 
I have a tri-clamp sight glass rims tube. Not a keggle sight glass. So I would have to attach it to your shiny nice tube and have the longest rims tube in il. My current power for my rims is an old extension cord (heavy duty) that has electric tape to cover the connections. The weakest most unsafe part of my set up. A better cover would be nice.
 
I do plan to make the end protection module available separately. I just need to ramp up production on them so that the quantity exceeds the RIMS main unit stock.

BTW, I do plan to make the RIMS units available to purchase this weekend at some point but we've fallen behind on cleaning and packaging the parts.


There was a question on the cord grip size. The cord OD range for these is 1/4" to 1/2". I verified that 1/2" OD is the absolute maximum cord diameter.

Based on some unverified research, that's 16/3 SO** and MAYBE 14/3 SO**. Definitely 16/3, 14/3, and 12/3 SJ*** and maybe 10/3 SJ***. The 10/3 SJ is listed as .58" OD so it's probably too big. The premise for now is that these will be run at 120v but I understand some people want to use them for on demand water heaters and such. The hole in the housing is 7/8" so if you can find a grip that goes up to .6" cord diamters, you're golden.
 
Wouldn't Kal's control panel just as easily run a RIMs setup as it would a HERMs?

Yes and no. His panel supports two elements with only one running at a time, unless you get the 50 amp panel. Even with the 50 amp panel it only supports 2 elements. With a rims you want to fire it and your hlt at the same time. The panel would need some additions to do this, 3 elements with two firing at the same time.
 
You guys are relentless. I normally don't work on Sundays if I can help it but quite a few RIMS kits are going out first thing in the morning because I know it's been a long wait.
 
Looks good! How is the thin, stamped element enclosure attached to the element adapter? Is it watertight? Is there some kind of seal where the two thin, stamped element enclosure pieces screw together? Is that seal watertight?
 
Looks good! How is the thin, stamped element enclosure attached to the element adapter? Is it watertight? Is there some kind of seal where the two thin, stamped element enclosure pieces screw together? Is that seal watertight?

It's attached to the adapter with 4-5 tack welds. That connection and the canister joint can be considered spash proof but not waterproof. I can't see any reason why it would need to be either.
 
Back
Top