It has begun...My Keezer Build

First off, thanks to all who posted their keezer builds online. I am taking something from everyone on this project. The body/base construction will be based off of Hoppopotomus's Knotty Pine Keezer. I like the space it allows between the freezer walls and the cabinet wall.

Well...I really began this project like 2+ years ago when I purchased a Holiday 5.0cuft chest freezer, digital temperature controller, and keg setup... but as many projects go, it took some time/$$$ to get going.

Equipment thus far:
Chest Freezer
Temp Controller
Two Five-gallon Corny Kegs
5gal gas tank
Party tap (woohoo!, im ready for the real deal though)
Single Body Regulator

Plans/additional equipment:
Three-way gas distributor
Draft Tower, with a double or triple faucet (not sure yet)
2 Three-gallon Corny Kegs
Tile for the lid

The first step was to build a collar that would allow for three-gallon corny kegs on the hump, and if empty I could put two 5 gallon carboys for fermenting. I still need to add some caulking and insulation to the collar...plus attach the lid to the collar.


Front, Collar on by http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/, on Flickr


Rear, Still need to bolt on by http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/, on Flickr


Corner Plate by http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/, on Flickr


Rear, Still need to bolt on by http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/, on Flickr

Lookin' good, keep posting pictures. So you're going to use a tower, not install faucets on the collar?

Progress!

I rebuilt the frame twice. I noticed that each time I rebuilt it, it was getting more crooked. Well the "premium" 2x4's from home depot warped after bringing them home. Luckily lowes is right next door so I bought the crappy 2x4's and go figure, they never warped.

On top of the frame is floorboard the previous owner left at my house and I put wainscoting on top of that. Cleaned up the front corners with some molding.

Lastly will be the top. I plan to use wood: maple, red oak, or some sort of pine. Lowes sells all of the above in pre-made panels that are sanded already. I will stain and probably put about 10 coats of poly on top. I plan on a double or triple tower to complete! I can't wait. Two more weeks I hope.

Oh and I love wood shims! They are great for the beginner carpenter!




http://www.flickr.com/photos/56869530@N06/6012807816/ http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/56869530@N06/6012260847/ http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/56869530@N06/6012808224/ http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/56869530@N06/6012261261/ http://www.flickr.com/people/56869530@N06/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/56869530@N06/6012261125/ doubleA567

BillyBroas said:

Lookin' good, keep posting pictures. So you're going to use a tower, not install faucets on the collar?

Click to expand...

thanks.

the collar was mainly to increase head space so I can put 3gal corny kegs on the hump... or when I brew i can use the keezer as my ferm chamber and fit one carboy on the hump with a blow-off tube. at least until i can purchase a small fridge and another temp controller.

I like it. The extra headspace is a huge plus. I'm glad I was able to put the hump to good use.

Progress made! see the third post!

Looking good.

Are you going to put a thermometer in the keezer? Is this going against a wall?

Having just built one myself, my only suggestion would be to move your Temp controller to a more easily accessible area unless it's easier to see/adjust from the back.

I put mine on the back and I'm about to move mine to lay horizontal in the space between the freezer and the cabinet that way when I open the lid I can see it. I don't ever adjust it but it's more a curiosity thing for me. I want to know what the controller is reading in relation to the bar thermometer I have in the keezer.

Nice work! Glad my thread was able to help you along the way. Keep up the good work and let me know if you have any questions. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Peter_h said:

Looking good.

Are you going to put a thermometer in the keezer? Is this going against a wall?

Having just built one myself, my only suggestion would be to move your Temp controller to a more easily accessible area unless it's easier to see/adjust from the back.

I put mine on the back and I'm about to move mine to lay horizontal in the space between the freezer and the cabinet that way when I open the lid I can see it. I don't ever adjust it but it's more a curiosity thing for me. I want to know what the controller is reading in relation to the bar thermometer I have in the keezer.

Click to expand...

thanks!

yea the thermo controller will be on the back. i rarely change the temp... but def not the most convenient spot!

Hoppopotomus said:

Nice work! Glad my thread was able to help you along the way. Keep up the good work and let me know if you have any questions. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Click to expand...

hey thanks! top should be done in the next couple of weeks.

Ok, heres a question- how come you built a frame around the freezer with dead space in between? I thought freezers use their skins as a "cooler" of sorts. Seems counter-productive to wrap in in an insulator...

HopHead80 said:

Ok, heres a question- how come you built a frame around the freezer with dead space in between? I thought freezers use their skins as a "cooler" of sorts. Seems counter-productive to wrap in in an insulator...

Click to expand...

the manual states 3-4" of space around of the freezer... so a 2x4 measures 1.5x3.5 ... giving me the 3-4" of space required by the manufacturer.

With the entire back being open and the 4" or so of space between the cabinet and the freezer walls....you should be fine. If the back were enclosed, then I would be concerned about the air space creating and insulating effect. Just to be safe, I put vents in all 3 sides of mine, but I don't think that it was necessary with the back being completely open. I knew that the sides were not going to be visible in my bar area, so I put 6" x 12" vents high on both the right and left side, an another 4" x 12" vent at the compressor location on the lower right. I also put a brushed nickel, decorative vent across the front.....complete overkill and in retrospect, I still don't think it was necessary. I think you will be perfectly fine without venting with the back being open and the airspace around the unit. If there is ever any concern about overheating, you can then just use a circular saw to cut a couple of RO's and buy decorative air registers to pop on. That or wire a couple of small computer fans to circulate air around the dead space. Like I said, I haven't had any issues with mine and I think you will be perfectly fine.

Hoppopotomus said:

With the entire back being open and the 4" or so of space between the cabinet and the freezer walls....you should be fine. If the back were enclosed, then I would be concerned about the air space creating and insulating effect. Just to be safe, I put vents in all 3 sides of mine, but I don't think that it was necessary with the back being completely open. I knew that the sides were not going to be visible in my bar area, so I put 6" x 12" vents high on both the right and left side, an another 4" x 12" vent at the compressor location on the lower right. I also put a brushed nickel, decorative vent across the front.....complete overkill and in retrospect, I still don't think it was necessary. I think you will be perfectly fine without venting with the back being open and the airspace around the unit. If there is ever any concern about overheating, you can then just use a circular saw to cut a couple of RO's and buy decorative air registers to pop on. That or wire a couple of small computer fans to circulate air around the dead space. Like I said, I haven't had any issues with mine and I think you will be perfectly fine.

Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly... the computer fan idea crossed my mind. The sides do get pretty warm when running, but when the freezer is at temp... it really doesn't run that much. So i am not concerned as well.

If i had glued a panel right onto the skin of the freezer (which I thought about), i think I would be having issues... but only time will tell!

Quick question... I am going back and forth between tile and wood top. Do you know if I can tile directly onto plywood? Or should I use put some other type of material if I go that route?

optimatored said:

My thoughts exactly... the computer fan idea crossed my mind. The sides do get pretty warm when running, but when the freezer is at temp... it really doesn't run that much. So i am not concerned as well.

If i had glued a panel right onto the skin of the freezer (which I thought about), i think I would be having issues... but only time will tell!

Quick question... I am going back and forth between tile and wood top. Do you know if I can tile directly onto plywood? Or should I use put some other type of material if I go that route?

Click to expand...

Like any other tile application, you need a solid foundation to tile on. Plywood, although more stable than board stock, still has flex to it when under load. If you have ever seen a tile job where the tile was mortared directly to the subfloor (typically plywood), eventually the tile starts or grout lines begin to crack under stress. I strongly suggest that you mortar down cement board (or durarock) to the plywood and screw it down with rock-on screws every 6 to 8 inches over the entire surface. This gives you a rock solid foundation that protects your tile and grout from cracking. It comes in 1/2 and 1/4 inch thicknesses, but you could probably get away with 1/4" if applied properly, since it is not a surface that is constantly under load like a subfloor. This will also cut down on the overall weight of the top. The lids on these keezers can get pretty heavy and if you are lifting the lid from the front trim piece, which is fastened to the underlying plywood top, and the tile is mortared directly to the plywood....your asking for trouble. You can get a 3' x 5' piece of 1/4" Durarock from HD for around $10 and the screws for around $5.....a hell of a lot cheaper than having to re-do your tile job after it cracks out. My 2 cents. Good luck!