48qt cooler as mash tun

Found this cooler for $12 on CL. have plans to pick up tomorrow to convert to MLT:

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/for/2812279175.html

48qt coleman cooler. Apparently in great condition.

Would this be overkill for a 5 gallon batch with a planned rectangular slotted manifold? Might do larger batches in the future, just dont have a bigger brew pot yet. I'm mostly worried about an adequate grain bed depth. Seems like a good deal on the cooler though.

Opinions appreciated.

I have a 70qt Coleman that I use for my 5 gallon batches and it works great. I batch sparge, so grain bed depth isn't quite as important as long as I give it time to settle. I've done small beers using 8lbs of grain, up to 10 gallon batches requiring 30lbs.

Just make sure to pre-heat the tun to make hitting your temps easier.

I have yet to see anyone post on this forum that they wish they didn't buy the larger MLT/Boil Kettle/Fermenter. I always recommend going for the equipment that allows you to grow.

I use a 48 qt for most of my batches, and those are mostly 5-6 gallons. It is a bit big for a very small grain bill e.g. for a mild or bitter, but still works fine. I know some people here on HBT make a foam insert wrapped in plastic that they stick on top of their mash for such occasions.

I use that cooler with a simple rectangle manifold, seems to work fine.

I used a 48qt for awhile, but quickly outgrew it. I now am mashing in a 120qt cooler with steel braid and ball valve. I'm brewing 10G batches and have the ability to upgrade to 15G easily without upgrading my MT.

That's the same model I have (mine's a bit older) and it works great for five gallon batches. Rectangle manifold of PVC as noted by others.

DrBudro said:

I have a 70qt Coleman that I use for my 5 gallon batches and it works great. I batch sparge, so grain bed depth isn't quite as important as long as I give it time to settle. I've done small beers using 8lbs of grain, up to 10 gallon batches requiring 30lbs.

Just make sure to pre-heat the tun to make hitting your temps easier.

I have yet to see anyone post on this forum that they wish they didn't buy the larger MLT/Boil Kettle/Fermenter. I always recommend going for the equipment that allows you to grow.

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Thanks everyone! Probably going to get my copper or pvc tubing on the way from getting the cooler.

@Dr....how do you preheat? Just fill with hot water? I'm assuming u don't put the cooler on the stove top. Lol.

We actually use that same cooler for our 5 gallon batches, and a 72 qt version of that cooler for our 10 gallon and larger batches. It works great. We went with a braided hose as our filter rather than the pvc or copper.

Also, we preheat ours with a gallon of boiling water. Just boil up a gallon, dump it in, close lid and let it sit while you heat up your strike water. As simple as that.

and btw, GO PACK!

I have used that same cooler with good results. As with any cooler, PREHEAT and it will hold mash temps reasonably well. Thread below details the cheap and easy braid installation I used on it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion-125108/

I like to preheat by adding strike water about ten degrees hotter than needed and simply waiting 5-10 minutes for the cooler to preheat. I would not add boiling water to a cooler...my .02.

wolfpackguy said:

Thanks everyone! Probably going to get my copper or pvc tubing on the way from getting the cooler.

@Dr....how do you preheat? Just fill with hot water? I'm assuming u don't put the cooler on the stove top. Lol.

Click to expand...

If you don't go with copper, make sure you are using CPVC (not regular sprinkler PVC). CPVC is rated food safe at mash temps unlike regular PVC, which will leech chlorine into your mash.

I preheat mine by dumping about 2 gallons of very hot water (190-200*) into the tun as soon as I get it setup. Keep it in there while you set everything else up and the temp should drop down to about 150-160*. As long as you are in the ballpark, the heat retained by the air and plastic is negligible and you won't need to account for it when calculating your heat loss to grain.

Another added benefit, is when you drain your pre-heating water, you will still have some left over filling up your dead-space. Because of this, you don't have to factor in your tun dead-space when calculating your water volume.

So i got my cooler tonight. Stopped by lowes on the way home to get just the parts for the bulkhead fitting/ball valve.

I went with the 1/2" sizes, as recommended by the 48qt cooler 'wiki' page. I found all the parts I needed (1/2" nipple, hose barb adapter, ball valve...)

One question: I found fender washers in 3/4" ID, which fit perfectly over the 1/2" ID nipple, and work well on the inside of the bulkhead with the existing cooler rubber fitting.

However, Lowes only had zinc low carbon. I found stainless steel fender washers on the Fastenal website (as recommended by wikis) in 3/4" sizes, but looks like prices are like $36/ each. Does this seem right??? If so, anyone see any concerns with the zinc metal version from Lowes for $0.40? I don't want to have any leachables in the wort, but $36 is more than I spent for the whole set up. I'm assuming I wont need stainless on outside of bulkhead since water contact is minimal.


Thanks!

Zinc will corrode, you need SS. $36 is WAY to expensive!

Varroa said:

Zinc will corrode, you need SS. $36 is WAY to expensive!

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yeah that's what i thought.

hmmm...maybe the inside washers don't need to be Fender, just regular 3/4"x2" washers in SS. Those seem to be more reasonably priced.