Premier malt extract

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The only OTHER ingredients called for with these kits is 1) sugar, 2) water, and 3) yeast!

True, Dave R, tried a batch without the sugar, and doubling the LME, and didn't like it, but I'm gonna have to try it and see for myself.

These kits are so cheap that I feel the need to do some major experimenting and playing around before moving on to bigger and better projects.

If y'all lived in a dry county, surrounded by dry counties, you would probably feel more like I do about wanting to apply some extra effort, and attempt to massage these kits for optimum results!

Pogo

Who is saying that you can't play around with them or massage them for optimum results? I think you got the whole tone of that post incorrect... I agree, play around with it and try it out! I know I did.. That post was simply a message to my brother (who lives in another town- I guess I should have clarified that) about my own personal experiences with premier.. But by all means, experiment.. Everyones tastes are different.. Good luck and happy brewing
 
Hey bullrider -

No harm...no foul!

I'm sorry if my response seemed testy, I didn't mean it to be!

I realized that you were replying to Corker, who was indicating that he saw merit in substituting a second can of liquid extract for the sugar in the recipe, as did I.

And, your advice was spot on!

I was just thinking out loud I guess!

Pogo
 
Hey bullrider -

No harm...no foul!

I'm sorry if my response seemed testy, I didn't mean it to be!

I realized that you were replying to Corker, who was indicating that he saw merit in substituting a second can of liquid extract for the sugar in the recipe, as did I.

And, your advice was spot on!

I was just thinking out loud I guess!

Pogo

Cool.. Be sure to post your results!! :mug:
 
Yo Corkster- Chris here....
So you are planning on using two cans, but following the recipe for one can? In essence, using your 2nd can as a "sugar" source? If so, then you are going to double the hop flavor, so just remember that. I believe there was a post somehwere in this forum about a guy who did it and said that wasnt very good.. I would still recommed trying one can (or two if you want-but be sure to double the ingredients in the given recipe) and using DME in place of the sugar.. I think it wil give you a better brew......:rockin:

I was hoping they might have a can of un-hopped extract. Alas, they did not.

So then I was gonna go with the DME, but my only local HB source is an Ace Hardware and their DME, while probably not overpriced, did seem a bit spendy for a starter run of what is supposed to be cheap beer anyway.

My buddy at work is gonna start a batch of Premier at the same time as I do and he's gonna use the DME while I'm gonna use table sugar, then we'll be able to compare and see the difference.
 
I was hoping they might have a can of un-hopped extract. Alas, they did not.

So then I was gonna go with the DME, but my only local HB source is an Ace Hardware and their DME, while probably not overpriced, did seem a bit spendy for a starter run of what is supposed to be cheap beer anyway.

My buddy at work is gonna start a batch of Premier at the same time as I do and he's gonna use the DME while I'm gonna use table sugar, then we'll be able to compare and see the difference.

So you got one can of premier? I will buy you the DME when I get in town tomorrow (Saturday).. Dont use the table sugar!
 
Ok, all has gone quite well thus far. Used two LBs of DME instead of table sugar... fermentation went quite well but all airlock activity stopped rather abruptly... 4 days total... I'm not all that worried about that since Joy of Homebrewing states that 3 day complete fermentations are not uncommon.

I took a hydrometer reading yesterday and got a 1.011, took one today and got 1.012 that seemed a bit odd...shouldn't the # be getting lower rather than higher? Also the beer was a few degrees warmer when I checked it today (and got the higher number) than it was yesterday.... Warmer temps should result in a lower reading if I understand hydrometer science at all.... but regardless, I'll keep checking until I get the same reading a few days in a row then.... Bottling!!

Right now the beer tastes a bit fruity and rather bitter..... I can't wait to see what happens to the flavor after proper bottle conditioning!
 
What's the hop flavor like with these Premier kits? Is it just bitter or is there actual flavor?
 
Well...I'm sitting here amazed!

This batch of Premier Malt Extract beer with two pounds of Extra Light DME is fantastic!

I'm truly not a REAL beer person, but this stuff is worth doing!

I'm going to have to develop a beer vocabulary, just to be able to properly describe all of the tastes involved here.

It has plenty of aroma, taste, feel...this is good stuff.

This batch is eighteen days old today, pitched on 01/21/09, with an OG of 1.031.

Today the SG is 1.012. I must of mis-read the potential alcohol scale earlier. I was thinking that a fermentation down to 1.015 would yeild an ABV of about 4%, but I was wrong.

Fermenting from 1.031 down to 1.012 gives me an ABV of only 2.489%. But, the taste is wonderful!

I could find no cidery after taste. I'm thinking that this batch is going to get even better as it conditions on out.

BTW - this kit came with a packet of Lager yeast, I used it, and it was viable. Thankfully, I rigged a blow-off tube into a bucket of water, because it pumped out plenty of foam even with temps in the fifties.

I'm thinking that i need to rig a refridgerator to ferment with Lager yeasts year around. I'm definitely going to do another batch onto this yeast cake, and use another carboy to continue tweeking these kit recipes.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can boost the ABV, without sugar, at this stage in the process?

Pogo
 
Well...I'm sitting here amazed!

This batch of Premier Malt Extract beer with two pounds of Extra Light DME is fantastic!

I'm truly not a REAL beer person, but this stuff is worth doing!

I'm going to have to develop a beer vocabulary, just to be able to properly describe all of the tastes involved here.

It has plenty of aroma, taste, feel...this is good stuff.

This batch is eighteen days old today, pitched on 01/21/09, with an OG of 1.031.

Today the SG is 1.012. I must of mis-read the potential alcohol scale earlier. I was thinking that a fermentation down to 1.015 would yeild an ABV of about 4%, but I was wrong.

Fermenting from 1.031 down to 1.012 gives me an ABV of only 2.489%. But, the taste is wonderful!

I could find no cidery after taste. I'm thinking that this batch is going to get even better as it conditions on out.

BTW - this kit came with a packet of Lager yeast, I used it, and it was viable. Thankfully, I rigged a blow-off tube into a bucket of water, because it pumped out plenty of foam even with temps in the fifties.

I'm thinking that i need to rig a refridgerator to ferment with Lager yeasts year around. I'm definitely going to do another batch onto this yeast cake, and use another carboy to continue tweeking these kit recipes.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can boost the ABV, without sugar, at this stage in the process?

Pogo
Hey Pogo!
I am glad your batch came out well!! Congrats. My brother and I made a batch of this last weekend.. He should probably be bottling today.. You said yours came with a packet of Lager yeast?? Out in Washington, ours comes with Danstar Windsor Ale Yeast... Although we ended up using SafeAle 04, I think it was the 04) because we rehydrated our yeast too soon and had some sanitation issues...
 
Anyway, my OG using one can of Premier Malt Extract, no sugar, and 2 pounds of Extra Light DME in a 5 gallon primary, was 1.031.

If it ferments down to 1.015 it will yeild approximately 4% ABV...which is all I can ask for!

.

Pogo

Our batch came in at 1.032, if I remember correctly.. So hopefully my brothers will ferment down to about the same ABV.... I'll have to have him send me one when it's bottled.. You hear that corkster??? Send me a bottle if it's good!
 
Ok, all has gone quite well thus far. Used two LBs of DME instead of table sugar... fermentation went quite well but all airlock activity stopped rather abruptly... 4 days total... I'm not all that worried about that since Joy of Homebrewing states that 3 day complete fermentations are not uncommon.

I took a hydrometer reading yesterday and got a 1.011, took one today and got 1.012 that seemed a bit odd...shouldn't the # be getting lower rather than higher? Also the beer was a few degrees warmer when I checked it today (and got the higher number) than it was yesterday.... Warmer temps should result in a lower reading if I understand hydrometer science at all.... but regardless, I'll keep checking until I get the same reading a few days in a row then.... Bottling!!

Right now the beer tastes a bit fruity and rather bitter..... I can't wait to see what happens to the flavor after proper bottle conditioning!

did you read the documentation that came with that hydrometer I got you? It will give you a temperature correction.. If not Beermsith has one built in as well...
 
Hey bullrider -

Thanks, a lot!

I've been somewhat tied up for most of the last couple of weeks. I see that Corkster has gone on ahead an bottled after the first week, when he had his FG.

I'm going to let mine bulk condition in the primary until week 3, Tuesday, or maybe even week 4, since I still have a lot going on now. Patience should be rewarded anyway, right!

I've just been playing around with that homebrew recipe calculator 'Beer Calculus' from a link I found in the Beginners Forum. It'll be interesting to see how well this thing works, as I begin tweeking this recipe.

I'd been thinking about adding a pound of that dreaded sugar to this recipe, to get the ABV up a point or two, but since most of the other LME kits like Alexander's, John Bull, Munton's, Cooper's, etc., contain from 6 to 9 pounds of LME in a kit that still only makes a 5-gallon batch...I'm starting to think why not just use 2, 3, or even 4 of the 2.2 pound kits of PME for a 5-gallon batch, instead?

Surely there are nuances that will differ, but I guess what I'm wanting to figure out is, "Is the SG of a pound of one LME, equal to the SG of a pound of another LME...or not?"

Surely, doing full multiples of the LME in a recipe would boost the OG, huh?

Maybe that 'Beer Calculus' site will shed a little light on how much of what to change.

BTW - Hopefully, you'll get a taste of this recipe before it's gone, or gets modified into another animal entirely.

Pogo
 
Our batch came in at 1.032, if I remember correctly.. So hopefully my brothers will ferment down to about the same ABV.... I'll have to have him send me one when it's bottled.. You hear that corkster??? Send me a bottle if it's good!

We did get an OG of 1.032, however since we did not have a thermometer handy, we have no idea what the temp was when we took that reading... I'd speculate that it was around 90 degrees or so though... in which case I'd need to add 5 to that reading giving an OG of 1.037 (roughly) my final reading is 1.009

doing the OG - FG x 105 formula gives me an appx ABV of 2.94 which really seems rather weak when you consider we added the 2 lbs of DME.. however I guess when you consider that the original premier can was not exactly huge (when compared to most LME cans, I reckon it makes more sense!.... oh well.. I reckon that means I can drink like 10 of 'em before getting a buzz!
 
I thought the formula was OG-FG X 133. That's what I've been using all this time. This would give 3.7 ABV.

Which formula does everyone use?

*I wonder where I got 133 from!
 
Hey bullrider -

I see that Corkster has gone on ahead an bottled after the first week, when he had his FG.

Pogo

Hey Pogo, I should actually be bottling today, which will be a full 10 days (I transferred over to secondary fermenter yesterday since it has a bottling spigot)

My FG has been consistent for the last 4 days so I'm good for bottling! =)
 
I thought the formula was OG-FG X 133. That's what I've been using all this time. This would give 3.7 ABV.

Which formula does everyone use?

I got the formula from The Joy Of Home Brewing 3rd Edition....

" To determine alcohol content by means of the specific gravity scale... subtract the final specific gravity from the original specific gravity and multiply by 105 to get percent alcohol by weight"

Hmm... percent by weight..... now I'm confused...lol..... He goes on to say to convert Alcohol by weight to alcohol by volume multiply by 1.25......
 
Thanks Dave!

That's a bit easier.... I did the method Charlie Papazian had in Joy... and then multiplied it by the 1.25 and came up with the same.... 3.6% so I guess both ways work but as your method is a lot easier I'll be using that from now on!
 
Hey bullrider -

Thanks, a lot!

I've been somewhat tied up for most of the last couple of weeks. I see that Corkster has gone on ahead an bottled after the first week, when he had his FG.

I'm going to let mine bulk condition in the primary until week 3, Tuesday, or maybe even week 4, since I still have a lot going on now. Patience should be rewarded anyway, right!

I've just been playing around with that homebrew recipe calculator 'Beer Calculus' from a link I found in the Beginners Forum. It'll be interesting to see how well this thing works, as I begin tweeking this recipe.

I'd been thinking about adding a pound of that dreaded sugar to this recipe, to get the ABV up a point or two, but since most of the other LME kits like Alexander's, John Bull, Munton's, Cooper's, etc., contain from 6 to 9 pounds of LME in a kit that still only makes a 5-gallon batch...I'm starting to think why not just use 2, 3, or even 4 of the 2.2 pound kits of PME for a 5-gallon batch, instead?

Surely there are nuances that will differ, but I guess what I'm wanting to figure out is, "Is the SG of a pound of one LME, equal to the SG of a pound of another LME...or not?"

Surely, doing full multiples of the LME in a recipe would boost the OG, huh?

Maybe that 'Beer Calculus' site will shed a little light on how much of what to change.

BTW - Hopefully, you'll get a taste of this recipe before it's gone, or gets modified into another animal entirely.

Pogo

Hey Pogo-

If you want to get the ABV up w/o the effects of table sugar, why not try dextrose/corn sugar instead? It wont ferment cidery and it will jack your ABV w/o contributing to flavor... Maybe add a little malto-dextrin for some mouth-feel? Who knows, like you said, the sky is the limit with this stuff 'cause it's so cheap. I see no reason why a guy can't use 2 or 3 or even four in a recipe (again, keeping in mind that if you use pre-hopped, it might get pretty hoppy). I think you would defintely be rewarded with a heavier, more "ale" like beer with a much higher gravity.. Be sure to let us know if you try it!:fro:
 
Well I got my first batch all bottled up yesterday without a hitch.... good times..good times...

I will say however that I'm not terribly impressed with the bottle filling wand that came with my kit... it works great as far as getting beer into the bottle, but the displacement it causes means that you end up with an inch and a half to two inches of head space in the bottles. Also in order to get even that much head space you almost have to overflow the bottles while filling them.... breaks my heart to see my sweet nectar running all over the towel I put my bottle on.....
 
Hey Corkster -

If you filled glass bottles all the way to the brim...you'd better keep them where the temperature is pretty constant.

As far as I know, all glass, metal, and most plastic containers have, and require a headspace above the top level of the contents!

This is to help protect the container from bursting during extreem temperature fluctuations.

Look in every wine, beer, whiskey, ketchup, paint, etc., bottle, can, 55-gallon drum out there.

A bottling wand is designed to leave a perfect amount of headspace in each bottle, whether it be beer or wine, everytime.

Plastic PET bottles, however, are super tough, and should be just fine.

Pogo
 
Hey Pogo...

Yeah I know you need 1/2 to 1 inch head space in each bottle.... the problem is with the filling wand that you stick the wand in, fill all the way to the brim and then pull the wand out... when you pull the wand out this leaves you with about 2 inches of head space... not so much that the beer won't properly carbonate, but more empty space than I'd like to see in an unopened beer!
 
Hey Pogo...

Yeah I know you need 1/2 to 1 inch head space in each bottle.... the problem is with the filling wand that you stick the wand in, fill all the way to the brim and then pull the wand out... when you pull the wand out this leaves you with about 2 inches of head space... not so much that the beer won't properly carbonate, but more empty space than I'd like to see in an unopened beer!


Cork,
That surprises me.. I have used two different bottle fillers (my new one exactly like yours) and a spring tip filler and both have left exactly enough headspace in the bottle.. You are using normal bottles aren't ya? When I bottle, I fill all the way to the top and inevitably a little spills over.. Casualty of war. Happens to everyone who bottles.. I doubt that you waste over 6 oz of beer this way for a 5 gallon batch... 1/2 beer.. no big deal... If you are this anal now, you are going to be in trouble and you move up to dealing with hops in the boil kettle, cause they suck up a little wort and I can see you squeezing each little individual hop flower, trying to extract every little bit of wort...:p Point is, there is going to be some loss along the way.. no worries about "golden nectar" being spilled:mug: So bottling went good?
 
Hey bro'... yeah bottling went well... Got the wife and the boy to help me..... I filled and handed em to the boy who handed them to the wife who then capped em!

but yeah, regular 12 ounce bottles. just a bit more head space than I was expecting... I could be wrong.

and yes... I will squeeze every hop in my next batch.. ;)
 
Hey bullrider -

As you had suggested earlier, I went ahead and added a touch of dextrose, 1 pound, to my batch to boost the low ABV a little.

I'm concerned that ANY refined sugar, even dextrose, may cause off flavors. But, its been a week now, and I don't detect anything different. It tastes great...for flat, warm, wort, that is.

Maybe small amounts of sugar are more tolerable.

Since the newer kits I'm getting are all coming with Lager yeast, and I'm fermenting this batch in my shed, at near Lager temperatures, it must account for this great taste.

I can see the need to get an old fridge/freezer and rig the thermostat to do Lagers.

BTW - As I continue to research extract brewing, I've just about decided that my next batch will be using three cans of Premier extract, water and yeast. I've computed that the OG should end up at 1.046 in a 5-gallon batch. Anyone tried this before?

Pogo
 
Any updates on these premier brews? Corkster? How did yours turn out?

Mine is only 1 week in the bottles, but I must say, it's not the best thing ever... It's not the worst thing ever either... that would be Fat Tire.... The Premier has a sort of sour fruity taste in the beginning with a mild thick caramel type taste in the background..... not undrinkable by any means... but not wonderful and amazing either. I think there is certainly potential for decent brew with the Premier... the whole flavor profile that I'm experiencing could simply be a product of the safeAle 05 yeast. I may (in the future) experiment with the same recipe using different yeasts since it is a cheap brew and would be a good way to find out the flavor profiles of different yeasts.
 
Mine is only 1 week in the bottles, but I must say, it's not the best thing ever... It's not the worst thing ever either... that would be Fat Tire.... The Premier has a sort of sour fruity taste in the beginning with a mild thick caramel type taste in the background..... not undrinkable by any means... but not wonderful and amazing either. I think there is certainly potential for decent brew with the Premier... the whole flavor profile that I'm experiencing could simply be a product of the safeAle 05 yeast. I may (in the future) experiment with the same recipe using different yeasts since it is a cheap brew and would be a good way to find out the flavor profiles of different yeasts.


Safeale yeast has been described by some as having a "bubble gum" or "banana/fruity" taste, so it could very well be the yeast.. Could be ferm temps too.. If it fermented at higher temps there's gonna be more of the fruity taste/smell..

On a personal note, you need to brew this Apfelwein for your wife.. She will love it.. it's awesome..... and that's just out the fermenter!
 
I purchased this 2.2 lbs can of premier malt extract natural hop flavored extract at a local super market. My grandfather said he made it way back in the day and it was good.

Directions are

empty the contents of the can and 2
lbs of granulated sugar or corn syrup in to the fermenting bucket Boil 1/2 gallon of water , allow to cool slightly and stir in the malt extract/sugar. Then top off with cold water. makes 5 gallons.


What do you think?
Hi,
I have been looking for premier ever since I first read about it a few weeks ago. All the stores in this area are out. The nearest piggly wiggly said that they have been out for 6 months. They have ordered it but they do not receive it. Other stores have eaid that they will order it but then they get no reply from premier malt. Is this a trend everywhere ? I'm in East Texas. Anyone else having problems finding premier? I can't even find an online source.
Baru
 
Hmm...sounds like someone is blowing smoke.

I see fresh stock on the local shelves weekly around here.

You are probably having yourself properly looked after by some misguided Bible thumpers, who think that alcohol in ANY form or fashion is a sin, who just happen to also be in the grocery business.

I'm in a dry county, surrounded by dry counties, so I know where of I speak.

Try all of the supermarkets, big and small, in your area.

Warehouse Discount Groceries carry it too.

Good luck with an online source. ec kraus has it but they want over $17 for a 2.2 lb. can of it!!!

Pogo
 
you must live in Cullman, I was born and raised there. I live in Franklin Co TN and you can still get the stuff here. Matter of fact I bought a can last week and going to run off a batch myself. here's my recipe 1 can of Premier malt; 1 pack of Liberty Hop Pellets; 2 bottles of Kayo syrup; 1 pack of Windsor yeast; Bring 2 gal of water to boil, Put in Premier malt Hops and Kayo syrup Mix well and put into carboy add 3 gal of water and yeast, put on air lock, wait 2 weeks and transfer to 2nd carboy (2nd fermentation) and wait another 1-2 weeks then bottle this will give you some kick ass brew its better if you wait for at least 2 weeks before you drink it
 
joetank:
Where in/around Winchester did you find Premier?
Also, you might consider using Golden Eagle Syrup instead of Karo. See www.goldeneaglesyrup.com for details. It is basically corn syrup, cane syrup, honey, and molasses. Canned in Fayette, AL by a family-owned company. I buy mine at the Manchester Wal-Mart.
 
joetank -

Roger that...a few miles past Jones Chapel.

Thanks for the recipe.

Taste-wise how does your current recipe compare to the one included with the kit?

I don't know about anyone else, but I'm compiling a folder with recipes for using Premier Malt Extract.

I've come to view Premier extract as the Mr. Beer kits for 5-gallon batches of beer...only inexpensive.

My next batch will be three cans of Premier, water and yeast.

That recipe will end up costing me the same as a canned kit of Cooper's, Alexander's, etc., but I only have to go 2 miles to get Premier.

Pogo
 
I've used Golden Eagle syrup in my Premier beers and they turn out great. I deliver to the grocery store that's about 100 yards down the road from the Golden Eagle manufacturer. It's a little tiny place and they make great syrup.
 
Pogo:
Any chance you would be willing to share your recipes with the group?

Dave:
good to hear Golden Eagle has worked out for you. I have used it to boost an amber ale that's in the keg now and a red ale that is been bubbling along nicely in the fermentor for 4 days now. The crew I brew with in Nashville use it to boost their IPAs. I am thinking about 2 cans of Premier and 1 15oz jar of Golden Eagle plus finishing hops for my next brew for something inexpensive and easy to make with a little less punch/kick. I also haven't decided if I will pitch directly onto the red ale's S-04 yeast cake or use what comes with the Premier cans. Any advice?
 
derailed -

I'm still a rank newbie brewing beer!

All of my recipes, other than the one that comes with the kit, have came from this thread right here.

Other than seeking feedback on ideas I have about recipes, I don't intent to post a recipe until I've tried it, and can vouch for it.

I'm only on my third batch...1) the original recipe, 2) 1 can of PME + 2 lbs. Extra Light DME with the Lager yeast that came with the kit, and 3) just started a batch with 3 cans of PME only, with it's own yeast and water, no boosters/additions of any kind.

joetank -

Did you put the pellets in a mesh bag? If not, what's the best way to filter the hops out? Or, did you ferment the hops, too?

Pogo
 
Pogo
You can just pour the pellets into the boiling wort and transfer to the fermentor with no real ill effect, or strain through a sanitized strainer into your fermentor, or use muslin hop bags, or pour the pellets in and, when doen boiling, make a whirlpool of the wort, which causes all of the solids to pile up in the center of the pot, prior to siphoning it into the fermentor. It really depends on how you transfer the wort from the pot to the fermentor. Whole hops (leaf or plug) need to be strained or in bags.
I chill the pot in an ice bath and pour through a funnel (and strainer if needed) into a 6 1/2 gal carboy. my brewing buddies use hop bags and use a pump and high temp hoses into a HUGE counter-flow chiller into 3 to 5 5 gal carboys depending on the amount brewed (15 to 20 gal all-grain batches).
 
:drunk::drunk:I have gone to Miejer and Kroger here in Michigan and cant find any Premier Malt, any local Michigan peeps have an Idea where to buy some?
 
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