Weldless brew stand.

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Some pics of my progress for you guys.

Few new valves and a sparge device.

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My slotted angle steel order from McMaster-Carr arrived yesterday! :mug:

Overall, I am pleased with McMaster-Carr. I ordered the steel on Tuesday and it arrived on Thursday! The cost has gone up slightly from when this thread was originally created. Also, there is one annoying issue with McMaster-Carr that should be mentioned. The shipping cost was a complete mystery until after I placed and received my order. Below is the receipt I received by email this morning. Fortunately, the shipping cost turned out to be the $25 that someone else on this thread said it was for him.

2 each 8968K26 1-1/2" X 1-1/2", 6’ length__17.32
6 each 4664T65 2-1/4" X 1-1/2", 6’ length__78.06
16 each 4664T22 Steel Corner Plate, 6"x 6"_38.56
2 packs 4664T61 Bolts W/nuts & Washers__14.84

________________________Merchandise__148.78
___________________________Shipping___25.13
_____________________________Total_$173.91

I already have casters, so I didn't need to order them. I'll start cutting it up tonight using the cheap angle grinder I picked up at Harbor Freight. Hopefully that will work for me. I'll post pics of the process later.
 
Started cutting up my steel last night.

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By 1:00am I had it completely assembled!
Now just need to buy extra washers and tighten all the bolts!
 
Getting close, just need my camlocks and thermometers. ETA one week.

Why is it necessary to have the valve there on the corner of the stand that kills the gas to all three burners? Couldn't you just kill it at the regulator if you needed to shut off all three? Also, if you light the first burner first, does it create problems lighting two and three? Is it advantageous to light first the 3rd burner, then the 2nd then the 1st or doesn't it matter? thanks.
 
Why is it necessary to have the valve there on the corner of the stand that kills the gas to all three burners? Couldn't you just kill it at the regulator if you needed to shut off all three? Also, if you light the first burner first, does it create problems lighting two and three? Is it advantageous to light first the 3rd burner, then the 2nd then the 1st or doesn't it matter? thanks.

That's just a safety feature for me, my tank is about 12 feet away. I always light the first burner "first" just because that is my HLT. In testing it didnt matter which i lit first they all worked just fine separatly or all together. I think it is the needle valves that make this a sweet setup.
 
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Got my burners installed and tightened down the manifold last night. Tonight I will probably haul it out of my basement to fire up the burners and test it out!

I plan on attaching some concrete backer board in the middle section to shield my cooler mash tun from the heat. I also need to construct a drip shield for my pump. After that I will be ready to brew!

Other than that, I will add switch for the pump and paint the stand.
 
For those of you who have built this stand, any advice on painting it? What is the best type of paint? Any preparation required on the zinc coating? Anyone paint it with no preparation? If so, how did that turn out? I am planing to paint my stand this weekend and want to do it right.
 
I have not built this, but I do know that you can remove the zinc coating by dropping the pieces into muriatic acid, or taking a torch to it.

I wouldn't bother painting over the coating.

I used bed frames and painted with the flat 1200 grill paint from home depot. If you want more heat resistance they sell a 2000F engine enamel, but you need to cure it with a torch or oven.
 
I have not built this, but I do know that you can remove the zinc coating by dropping the pieces into muriatic acid, or taking a torch to it.

Well, the stand is already build, so I'm not going to be dipping pieces into muriatic acid. I have heard of spraying white vinegar on galvanized steel, then rinsing it off after some time before painting. Think that would work on the zinc coating, as well?
 
I don't have any experience with zinc either and I also used bed frames. I did also use the high temp grill paint. It has held up very well everywhere except on direct flame.
 
Could you use an acid like mentioned above in a spray bottle, spray the whole stand and let it sit, they spray with something to neutralize the acid when done and rinse clean with water???? Just a brew fueled thought:)
 
Well, the stand is already build, so I'm not going to be dipping pieces into muriatic acid. I have heard of spraying white vinegar on galvanized steel, then rinsing it off after some time before painting. Think that would work on the zinc coating, as well?

Yes any mild acid will neutralize the coating. Just wash it off afterwards and let them dry a long time - or consider heating them to remove any residual moisture.
 
Just drooled my way through this whole thread.

Anyone in Chicagoland who has made this stand, is there any chance you'd let a nerd come over and see it in person? I'm sort of between DIY and buying something prefab. I was going to start all grain in May, and was thinking of getting a bunch of cinder blocks to start out building up heights at first. But then... I ... would... own... and move... lots of cinder... blocks...
 
Just drooled my way through this whole thread.

Anyone in Chicagoland who has made this stand, is there any chance you'd let a nerd come over and see it in person? I'm sort of between DIY and buying something prefab. I was going to start all grain in May, and was thinking of getting a bunch of cinder blocks to start out building up heights at first. But then... I ... would... own... and move... lots of cinder... blocks...

This stand is quick and easy to build. The frame itself is very inexpensive, as you can see.

However, all the other hardware and components that go on it can nickle & dime you to death! :cross: Just be warned! LOL!

But, I love my weldless stand! :D
 
Got the parts this week, cut and bolted everything together this afternoon. Used my 18v lithium Ryobi miter saw and cutting disks, worked fine. I'm making mine a tad taller, to accomodate my two Blichmann burners on the extended legs, and a full 6' long. I think I'm going to christen mine "Barney", in honor of Homer Simpson's best friend / drinking buddy.

Going to Brew School tomorrow all day at The Draught House / Big Dog's in North Las Vegas, so nothing else until Sunday.
 
Added another set of casters, added brackets for my bottom-drain mash tun, put burners in place and put HLT (temporary, I have another keg I'm going to transform), MLT, and keggle on it to see if everything works so far. Pumps will go in center bottom section, RIMS tube in center middle, NG pipe along the bottom. So far, so good... :rockin:
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I figured the green stuff might be an issue. I'm set up a bit different though, so will be interesting to see if the idea/plans I made worked. I used 3/8" stainless rods as kettle supports and isolated them by getting silicone hose and insulating where I locked them into place with u-bolts. Spent a lot more doing it, but I wanted to try to isolate the burn as much as possible. Also, I didn't want any reactions between the angle steel and the bottom of my kettles. Planning on running it this weekend, test burns have been golden so far.

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It's about time I finally add mine. It's ready to test fire tomorrow.

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I'll start another thread to document my build.

Test fired and working great!



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Has anyone else noticed warping of the steel?
 
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