ebay aquarium temp controller build

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I just ordered mine today (I read through this whole damn thread so yes I made sure I got the 110V one lol http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...998461&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_4169wt_905)

I have a Johnson A419 for my keezer build. I plan on using this DIY build for a heated fermentation chamber only so I don't need it to cool. I have a few questions.

First, I assume the above diagram will work for heating and a fan. I just need to switch the two wires going into the cooling terminals of the controller to the heating terminals.

Second, I want to use a reptile ceramic bulb to heat the chamber with a fan blowing the air around. Will these work ok plugged into the controller?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCXM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCPU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

No one?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nm Connector?

Thanks all for helping me to find these! On a side note, I placed an order on Lowes.com and utilized their 20 minute pickup in the store option. I'd never heard of that before but I figured what the heck... if I could order all of my stuff and pick it up at the desk, I'd save a bunch of time. I get to Lowes after I got my 'order is ready' email and nothing was ready. I asked what the 20 minute guarantee was and was told they would have it ready in 20 min. Well duh!! What happens when you don't meet the 20 min guarantee?? "Oh", she said, "you get a $25 gift card." Sweet!! So while I'm there waiting on my order, I walked over, picked up 2 of the "Nm Connectors" for 32 cents each. I finally get my order and the guy totally screwed it up. I ordered one hose shutoff to go on the end of my hose while filling my keggle and he brought me one CASE!! They are $8 each! I ended up going through my whole order to make sure I got everything. There were things missing and I had one extra of another item too.

Anyway, to make a long story short.... I found my nm connectors, got parts for my temp controller, and got a $25 gift card for my time. :D

I'm off to Rat Shack for the boxes.
 
so you guys are setting your differentials at almost zero? I know hitting those fermentation temps are important, but is there that little room for swinging temps?

my preliminary tests (before the actual fridge is fully sealed and ready for action) tell me that my fridge runs every 40 minutes for about 5 or 6 minutes. I feel those numbers are pretty decent. is that around the times you guys are getting with your finished fermentation chambers?

also, did anybody try to cut down on the space to be cooled by adding styrofoam where it might not be needed? I added a 2x2 piece of insulation on all corners. my thinking was it would seal any spaces where cold air could get out, AND cut down on the amount of space to be cooled. does this make sense to anyone, or am I totally out of my league on cooling techniques here?
 
so you guys are setting your differentials at almost zero? I know hitting those fermentation temps are important, but is there that little room for swinging temps?

my preliminary tests (before the actual fridge is fully sealed and ready for action) tell me that my fridge runs every 40 minutes for about 5 or 6 minutes. I feel those numbers are pretty decent. is that around the times you guys are getting with your finished fermentation chambers?

also, did anybody try to cut down on the space to be cooled by adding styrofoam where it might not be needed? I added a 2x2 piece of insulation on all corners. my thinking was it would seal any spaces where cold air could get out, AND cut down on the amount of space to be cooled. does this make sense to anyone, or am I totally out of my league on cooling techniques here?
The fridge will cycle less often when you have something in it, and when you tape the probe to the vessel. During peak ferm, it will cycle more than finished beer would, but less than if the probe was in air.
The added insulation inside would have to be air tight to the inner wall to do any good. Probably better to use that extra space inside for additional passive thermal mass. Even 2 liter bottles filled with water will help.
 
Completed my build today. I'm happy with the results.

35d6ba7d.jpg
 
Ok I figured it out. The best thing I have found to attach the probe to the carboy(poster putty). That stuff works great. Sticks to anything, is usable. And it holds temp just as well as what I was using. Blue rigged foam covered with blue tape. Tell me what ya think?

image-9091051.jpg


image-3265686675.jpg
 
rack04 said:
Completed my build today. I'm happy with the results.

Not to be a downer, it looks great and mines almost identical to yours, but why are people putting switches on these? There's a power switch on the controller?
 
I feel the same. It also has an indicator light to let you know its heating or cooling but people keep adding lights too.
To each their own I guess.
 
I just can't WAIT to see activity. Started about 6hrs after pitching. This mooring there's full fermentation underway. Excellent.....
 
Got mine today, $25 shipped from a different seller. Installed everything, flush mounted to my cabinet. Turned it on, heat worked but not cooling. Spent the next 45 minutes troubleshooting, only to find out that the compressor delay is initially on, so it takes 3 minutes before starting the ac.

Guess I should read more before starting projects.
 
Got mine today, $25 shipped from a different seller. Installed everything, flush mounted to my cabinet. Turned it on, heat worked but not cooling. Spent the next 45 minutes troubleshooting, only to find out that the compressor delay is initially on, so it takes 3 minutes before starting the ac.

Guess I should read more before starting projects.

That got me too, turned it on and nothing but the "cool" light blinking. Walked away to get the instructions and by the time I got back it was working ;)
 
here is a quick outline of my two plugs, switch and lamp light control unit. all done in a 7X5X3 box. quick and easy.
3060-two-plug-switch-light-control.gif

I'm no electrician (AT ALL) but are the hot block, neutral block, etc in the above just wire nuts? Can it be wire nuts?

Also I'd like to bypass the switch and LEDs. This is just a matter removing those wires from the diagram right?

ParadiseBeer can you help a brother out! Maybe you can send closeup pics of your actual build.
 
olsond said:
I'm no electrician (AT ALL) but are the hot block, neutral block, etc in the above just wire nuts? Can it be wire nuts?

Also I'd like to bypass the switch and LEDs. This is just a matter removing those wires from the diagram right?

ParadiseBeer can you help a brother out! Maybe you can send closeup pics of your actual build.

The original post has a wiring diagram for use without led's. You can wire everything together, blocks and outlets are not necessary
 
The original post has a wiring diagram for use without led's. You can wire everything together, blocks and outlets are not necessary

I wanted to do the 2 outlet rig so this one looked closer to what I wanted. But, I think you're reply answers my Qs thanks.
 
olsond said:
I wanted to do the 2 outlet rig so this one looked closer to what I wanted. But, I think you're reply answers my Qs thanks.

Now that I have been using my two temp units i am glad that I put in the switch. At first I thought that it might not be needed but both are plugged into the wall where it's just easier to use the power switch. Also, I find that the LEDs were worth the time as I can just look from across the room or garage to see if it's cooling or heating. I now recommend them both.
 
Is there a way I can wire speakers on the inside my ferm chamber? I really want to play classical music to the fermenting wort when its cooling.
 
I've got 2 of these controllers, one in my fermentation fridge and 1 in my keezer, and both of them I tape to the side of the vessel(s) and insulate with a couple layers of bubble wrap. If you test just the ambient air you'll get much wider temperature variations, especially when you open the fridge/freezer.
 
Subscribed! And at $16, this is a GREAT solution over the digital temp controllers other have been buying and using in the $50 price range.
 
I've been using mine to control this little fridge for a few months now. Its been working great other than one little hiccup where a power surge turned it off somehow and I didn't make it out to check on it for a couple of days. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it's working fine now.

2010-12-05_20_09_11.jpg
 
ere109 said:
Subscribed! And at $16, this is a GREAT solution over the digital temp controllers other have been buying and using in the $50 price range.

I agree but don't forget the shipping cost and cost of the other items. It will cost about $40 if you need to buy everything which is still better than store bought controllers.

I would say though that if you have no experience with electronics and don't feel like doing a diy project, a johnson controller can be had on sale for only $30 more.
 
I just tried to make my own temp controller as well. However, i can not get the two outlets to work independently of each other. If the temp goes before the parameter they both turn on and if it goes above the parameter they both kick on again. However, they both kick on at about 4 degrees below and both kick on at about 30 degrees above and stay on until the temp goes back within 4 degrees of the original setting. Did i wire it wrong or do i just not know how to set the temp controller. Please help
 
No, the tab is still there.

It appears that it does not matter whether the temp is below or above the parameters both outlets are getting power in both situations.
 
No, the tab is still there.

It appears that it does not matter whether the temp is below or above the parameters both outlets are getting power in both situations.

It's cuz the tab is still there. The power is going thru the tab powering both outlets whenever a parameter is met.
 
Page 25 shows a receptace without the tab. Its the piece connecting the top and bottom recaptacles.
 
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