Time to bottle?

I have a scotch ale that will be two weeks in the secondary this Tuesday, after 12 days in the primary when it went from 1.083 to 1.023. I'm not too concerned about taking SG readings on this one, because my target FG was 1.022, and I was already near there when I racked it. I was planning on bottling on Tuesday, but at this point only the top 1/3 has cleared. I wouldn't hesitate to just leave it alone until it's cleared all the way, but I dry hopped with a half ounce of Fuggles, and I thought someone here said not to dry hop for more than two weeks.

So what's the conventional wisdom here...bottle after two weeks in the secondary, or don't worry about the dry hops, leave it till it clears?

Also, should I drop the temp a bit to help it clear faster?

I say move it to a cold place, the colder the better, and give it another week. Fuggles won't be a problem. I had an IPA on willamette (about a pound wet) for four weeks & it's a bit much.

david_42 said:

I say move it to a cold place, the colder the better, and give it another week.

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Are we talking 50F type cold?

50F would be fine. Much colder and you'd see a cold haze. That would settle out too, but slowly.

I would bottle it. None of my beers have been totally homogenous from top to bottom in secondary, and all but one have cleared just beautifully. What do you care if a Scotch ale that comes bellowing in at 7% and is black as the Ace of Spades isn't all that clear, anyhow??

Sasquatch said:

What do you care if a Scotch ale that comes bellowing in at 7% and is black as the Ace of Spades isn't all that clear, anyhow??

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You have a good point. I'm not too worried about the clarity, I just want to make sure that my beer has the opportunity to "be all it can be".

Question: if you chill your fermenter to clear the beer will you still have enough yeast left in suspension for priming? I could easily move my fermenter into the garage this time of year for a day or two at 50-55F, but wouldn't want it to effect carbonation.

Unless you filter, there will be enough yeast to carbonate. They will be the anti-social ones that don't focculate, but they are the hardest workers.

david_42 said:

They will be the anti-social ones that don't focculate

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So it's the geeky yeasty's that carbonate your beer?

david_42 said:

Unless you filter, there will be enough yeast to carbonate. They will be the anti-social ones that don't focculate, but they are the hardest workers.

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Good deal. I never filter, I want the extra carbs. I'll try putting my next batch in the garage for a few days before I rack to bottling bucket.

I've actually taken a bit of an anti-clarity stance. I think I'd rather drink semi-cloudy beer as long as it tastes good than add fish-bladder or cow-hoof to my brew. My last pale ale never really cleared that well - it was kind of translucent at best. But it tasted really really good. That said, I'm sure the kits I do have some fining agents in them as part of the thing....

I've done a scottish export and a wee heavy. Both spent 2 weeks in the secondary and 1 week in my garage fridge before bottling. The first one carbonated just fine after a week of cold conditioning. The do clear up really well when you refrigerate. You will have minimal sediment in your bottles too.

Still plenty to get the carbonation done though.

I'll agree that it isn't fully necessary but like you, I wanted my brews to be all that they can be.

My Wee heavy finished out at 1.020. It's got a nice sweet finish to it just like Bellhaven wee heavy. I like it. Your's will probalby be the same with that much FG.

Whatever you do, it'll work out just fine.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I had started dropping the temp yesterday, but I don't think I'm gonna make it a whole nother week. SWMBO noticed today that I have two in secondaries and one in primary. I got the look.