All-grain IPA Recipe

Hello, just joined this forum yesterday. I've learned a ton from this forum over the last couple of months, and I'm starting to get into all grain. I came up with this recipe using Beersmith, let me know what you guys think about it. I'm thinking of dry hopping, but not sure what kind of hops to use. I'm new to all grain so any suggestions are welcomed.

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------

Batch Size: 5 gal
Boil Size: 6.52 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 6.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 64 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 50.8 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU

11.00 lb Maris Otter Pale Malt
8.0 oz Munich Malt
8.0 oz Carmel/Cryrstal Malt - 20L

.37 oz Horizon [12 %] (60 min) 13.5 IBU
.37 oz Nugget [13 %] (50 min) 13.9 IBU
.37 oz Horizon [12 %] (40 min) 11.9 IBU
.37 oz Nugget [13 %] (30 min) 11.2 IBU
.37 oz Horizon [12 %] (20 min) 8.2 IBU
.37 oz Nugget [13 %] (10 min) 5.2 IBU

1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast - Ale

Sounds like a great recipe. I would definitely dry hop if able. Cascades are great if you want a nice grapefruity aroma, at least that's what I like. Why not bump up all the hop additions to .5 oz?

Anything between 60 and 20 only adds bitterness (very minimal flavor/aroma), so to maximize hop usage:

Get rid of the 50,40, and 30 minute additions. Increase the 60 minute addition to get your desired ibus. Add a lot of hops at flameout, and dryhop with at least 2oz, I prefer 3+.

There is only 2.22 oz of hops in there, which isn't enough for an ipa. I usually start with something like: 1 oz at 60 with a high alpha hop, then 1oz each at 15,10,5,0, then 3oz dryhop (8oz total). Nice bitterness, flavor, and aroma balance. Modify as needed depending on the hops being used.

skeezerpleezer said:

Anything between 60 and 20 only adds bitterness (very minimal flavor/aroma), so to maximize hop usage:

Get rid of the 50,40, and 30 minute additions. Increase the 60 minute addition to get your desired ibus. Add a lot of hops at flameout, and dryhop with at least 2oz, I prefer 3+.

There is only 2.22 oz of hops in there, which isn't enough for an ipa. I usually start with something like: 1 oz at 60 with a high alpha hop, then 1oz each at 15,10,5,0, then 3oz dryhop (8oz total). Nice bitterness, flavor, and aroma balance. Modify as needed depending on the hops being used.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. Do I need to calibrate BeerSmith? It says it'll be 64 IBU with that amount of hops. I'd rather trust you than the software though, so I'll make the adjustments.

kleinsaj said:

Sounds like a great recipe. I would definitely dry hop if able. Cascades are great if you want a nice grapefruity aroma, at least that's what I like. Why not bump up all the hop additions to .5 oz?

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try Cascades for dry hopping!

WC12 said:

Thanks for the feedback. Do I need to calibrate BeerSmith? It says it'll be 64 IBU with that amount of hops. I'd rather trust you than the software though, so I'll make the adjustments.

Click to expand...

No, it is probably right. It is just that using hops at 50,40,30 don't add any complexity (flavor or aroma). You would be better off removing those, then increasing the amount at 60 to get back to your desired ibus. Then used the leftover at flameout or dryhopping to get flavor/aroma.

Your gravities, ibus, and grain look great, just need a lot more hops at the end to get that ibu hop punch in the face.

skeezerpleezer said:

No, it is probably right. It is just that using hops at 50,40,30 don't add any complexity (flavor or aroma). You would be better off removing those, then increasing the amount at 60 to get back to your desired ibus. Then used the leftover at flameout or dryhopping to get flavor/aroma.

Your gravities, ibus, and grain look great, just need a lot more hops at the end to get that ibu hop punch in the face.

Click to expand...

Ok, I'll try it out. I was going for the continuous hopping method. Can I just add a lot more at 60 min then still continually hop, just with smaller quantities?

You can add whenever you want, but keep in mind that anything over 20 minutes adds bitterness, 20-10 or so is for flavor, and less than that and dryhop is aroma.

If continuously hopping, I would bitter to your ibu with a 60 min addition, then continuously hop from 20-0.

OK, here is my new recipe. Tell my what you think...

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------

Batch Size: 5 gal
Boil Size: 6.52 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 6.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 64.8 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 50.8 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU

11.00 lb Maris Otter Pale Malt
8.0 oz Munich Malt
8.0 oz Carmel/Cryrstal Malt - 20L

1.0 oz Nugget [13 %] (60 min) 40 IBU
.50 oz Chinook [13 %] (60 min) 20 IBU
.10 oz Nugget [13 %] (15 min) 1.8 IBU
.10 oz Horizon [12%] (10 min) 1.5 IBU
.10 oz Horizon [12%] (5 min) 0.7 IBU
1.0 oz Cascade [5.5%] (1 min) 0.7 IBU
3.0 oz Cascade Dryhop 7 days

1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast - Ale

I would take some of the dry hops and up the 15,10,5 by .5 each, then dry hop with the remaining. You don't have to use 3 oz of dry hops, 1.5 will work still add good aroma. I usually do 3 to add a little more aroma, and because I buy in semi bulk and always have about 5-8lbs on hand...buying in bulk is much cheaper. Other than that, looks good to me.

If you haven't read into hop bursting, you should check it out, there are lots of good articles on here. It will provide more insight about what I have been describing.

If I were to increase the crystal malt and/or munich malt and decrease maris otter, would this result in too much sweetness, or still be good?

Just trying to see all the options I have to tweak this recipe. Thanks for the help!

The common recommendation I see on here is to use up to 10% caramel, so going up to a lb would be ok. I have used over 10% numerous times with good results. If you want a biy sweeter beer add some more.

Am I missing something here...how are you getting a SG of 1.065 with only 12 pounds of grain at 50.8% Eff?

By my calculations you are only going to hit 1.046.

Double check your numbers here...

TheMan said:

Am I missing something here...how are you getting a SG of 1.065 with only 12 pounds of grain at 50.8% Eff?

By my calculations you are only going to hit 1.046.

Double check your numbers here...

Click to expand...

I think I was looking at Measured Efficiency in Beersmith. It says my total efficiency is 72% and Est Mash Eff. is 79.2%. Which of these numbers should I be looking at? I've attached a screenshot of Beersmith, let me know what you think.

Thank you.

That looks correct. But you might want to watch your batch size. Personally I like to plan for 5.5gal in my fermenter, so I get 5gal in my keg or bottling bucket. You might try bumping your batch size up to 5.5gal, then add enough 2-row until your estimated OG is back to 1.065.

Total efficiency is a value you can change. Estimated is just a number that beersmith is guessing. If you've had around 72% efficiency in the past, then that's your number.

WC12 said:

I think I was looking at Measured Efficiency in Beersmith. It says my total efficiency is 72% and Est Mash Eff. is 79.2%. Which of these numbers should I be looking at? I've attached a screenshot of Beersmith, let me know what you think.

Thank you.

Click to expand...

Measured efficiency is the actual calculation based on the gravity numbers you input from your measurements (pre and post boil). Total efficiency is the number you should use IMO since it encompases the entire brew. 79% is only the mash, which doesn't take into consideration any losses during the process. In other words, mash efficiency is only 1/3 of the way through the process, while it is important...knowing your total efficiency after all is said and done is much more informative to you.