Starting my RIMS Set up?

So I finished my brewstand, single tier set up, and I have been searching the forum for the proper way to start my all grain process. Now I have an idea on the necessary steps involved but would like some constructive words of wisdom from the veterans. I have a single pump set up with a heater element as my source of heat and a honeywell controller to maintain necessary heat. I have a keggle and a keg as my mash tun w(false bottom) and a keg as my HLT. I need a noob crash course with a easy grain bill.

I have all necessary connections and hoses (I THINK). Oh and I have 2 burners 23 jet propane 1 for the HLT and the other for the keggle. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

You built/bought all of that and you haven't brewed an AG batch yet? Wow - you definately like to dive in head first.

Are you looking for generic AG procedures or help on how to use the RIMS setup?

I may be asking for alot but both would be nice, I know it seems crazy but I figure I might as well go for it, I got alot of the equipment for a good deal and I am hooked on brewing. I am a plumbing heating tech by trade so the mechanical aspect comes easy, its the rest that I am interested in. I have brewed some extract and some partial grain and lme kits but want to get into the heart of the animal.

Thanks

Running a RIMS will be easier than single infusion mashing... and trying to hit temps. At least this beast will hit temps for you.

I run a HERMS, and have studied both. What you are going to find is that it should be easy to maintain temps with the temp controller (where are you measuring the wort temp?)

What you will aslo find is that each system has a personality that only through use, will you be able to understand. Your system may have a temp differential (between the RIMS heater and the MLT) due to normal heat loss during the transfer.

What you NEED to do is fill your HLT and MLT with the same volumes that you will be using when you brew. Then, run the system as you will when you are mashing and sparging... this is a dry (wet) run. This will familiarize you with heating times, point out any leaks and give you an idea of your systems specific "personality". Flow rates, heating times, and any temp differentials that you may incur when actually brewing.

Your first brew will be an "experiment" of sorts... take good notes. Temps, times etc... so that you know what to expect in later brews and so that you can correct anything you deem as a problem.

#1 though is the dry (wet) run... you have to do that first IMHO

Preheat your mash strike water to strike +10 or even +15F to preheat the MLT. When you do your dry run, take note of how quickly the strike water cools to the appropriate strike temp.

Mash in... stir thoroughly, take time to break up any dough balls and such. Assimilating the temp at this point is not a HUGE concern since you will be starting your RIMS recirc shortly. This will help to equalize temps in the mash.

Start the recirc. (are you going to recirc continuously and control the heater only?) I recommend recirculating continuously, that is how I roll... You can do whatever you want. But, really the less insulated the MLT, the more you want to recirc and heat anyway to reduce cold spots where heat is lost (bottom, top and sides of a SS keg).

During the mash, heat your HLT water to your sparge temp (168F or so)

Monitor your RIMS temps and the resulting MLT temps... see if there is a differential, and take note of what it is. Most controllers allow you to set a differential or dead band... play with this during the dry run to see what is most appropriate for your system.

Mashout... take note of how much time it takes to reach mashout temps in the MLT... this will be evident when the output of the MLT is the same temp of the input to the MLT (168F or so)

But, again, please do a dry run... this will save you MUCHO headaches on brew day.

This would be a good brew...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/centennial-blonde-simple-4-all-grain-5-10-gall-42841/

I have a tap on the back side of the MLT and I am inserting a temperature well with the appropriate sensor, or I have the option of doing a in the mash sensor that is not stationary. My idea was also a dry run or wet run and see how quick it comes to temp and monitor the changes. Then do a low grain bill 5 gal batch, but I am looking for some steps as I am new to AG, and what steps you would have for a noob to AG. Example 1 measure grains and hops. 2 measure water needed, get up to temp according to grain ambient temp etc etc.

#1 you are going to have a HORRIBLE time running a RIMS with a temp sensor in the MLT. That is pretty much a no no on RIMS or HERMS building 101.

Your temp controller will not know what the RIMS output temp is, and therefore could be heating it to 170F and it will never know, because the mash has not come up to temp yet. Once it does, then your mash will have overshot your set temp.

I think there is an AG Primer thread on here somewhere that spells out AG brewing for a beginner. If you are talking about going all the way back to measuring water and grains... that is where you need to look probably. I will see if I can find it for ya.

The coolest thing. A stainless Tee with two QD's and a thermowell for the LOVE probe. This is great because it allows me to move it from kettle to kettle, measuring outflow temperature. This is the most direct way of reading temps in the system. Predominately used on the recirculating mash, it measures direct outflow of the mash, right above the burner. It is also used to measure cooling temps in the boil kettle.


This is from the Brutus Ten website from Lonnie Mac

You guys are the best!!!

Again, in a RIMS where you have a separate heating chamber you cannot place the temp sensor in the MLT, or the outlet. If you are direct firing, the outlet is the best solution because it is immediately down line from the heat source, in a RIMS with a heating chamber separate, it need to be IMMEDIATELY down line as well, not in the MLT.

POL can I sub pearl malt for the pale for this batch due to I have about 30lbs left over?

Never heard of Pearl Malt... I cannot find it via Google either to look up its attributes... ??

Isn't pearl malt a base 2-row variety, like golden promise and maris otter?

If so, yes, you should be able to sub it just fine.

Did you get all your questions answered? Sorry, I had to run and get some work done. Go figure.

I still cant find the All Grain Primer thread... I know it is here somewhere, that will help if this is your first AG... and get that temp probe at the RIMS heater outlet before you dump grain in that thing.

EDIT: Here are some tutorials!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/all-grain-pictorial-video-tutorials-78963/

I will. Thanks for your help.

Do you sparge the whole amount of remaining water for preboil volumes?

I do... but this is why.

Through brewing with my system I have been able to accurately compute the ammount of fluid loss in my HLT, MLT and HERMS coil. SO, when I begin the brew I start with the PRECISE ammount of water to complete the brew.

I mean, within .5 quarts. How? Complete even one brew session with excess water and when you have the correct run off ammount in the BK, stop... then place the hose in a gallon jug and open the valve again until the MLT and HLT run dry. Subtract this excess ammount from your initial water volume, and that is your system fluid loss. It will be a constant.

SO when I start a brew, I have the exact ammount of water for the brew in hand. When I finish, my HLT and MLT are dry. Thus no waste (heating times etc) and no sugars left in solution.

SWEET! I Know the first few batches will be trial and error but I really do not to toss a brew. I will start with the blonde after a wet run and proper probe location. And I will use that left over pearl malt just in case it is a down the drain batch.

Start with a noticeable excess of sparge water, a gallon or two... then like I said, when you reach your pre-boil volume in the BK, keep running off into a vessel that you can measure and tweak your water useage based on system fluid loss.

Even after the TOP of the grain bed goes dry, there is still a solid 1-1.5 gallons of drain-able fluid in a 5 gallon grain bed. So dont freak out

#1 I BUY water to brew with, so water waste is $$$ waste.
#2 I dont have to stand over my sparge, just let the HLT and MLT run dry, no biggie.
#3 No sugars left in solution in the MLT in a couple gallons of dilute wort.

You can probably figure this out pretty closely when you do your dry run. PRECISELY measure how much water you put in your HLT and MLT... then run the system to get all of the plumbing filled as you would during a mash. Then run a fake sparge sending all of the water that you can from the HLT to the MLT. Then drain the MLT using your current false bottom setup. Calculate the difference and THAT is the fluid loss and what you must ADD to your "required water" from your brewing software.

Here is the semi finished product, I did the gas today and mounted 1 of those 32 tips to see the flame, whoa, way to much. I have a little more wiring left to do and wait for the right burners to get here, BUT I SEE DAYLIGHT. Then it will be time to play.

Goto my profile to see the pics

Congrats Mainebrew! I am messing around trying to figure out how to make some brewing videos on my new system here in a week or so.

Let me know , I would like to see them it in action!

When it is done, I will post a thread here with the completed video.

So SAT is brew day and the christening of the Brighton Hill Brew Rig, I am doing a blonde and having a buddy over for a demo and knock back a few. Now Pol I don't know if you are out there but, I did my dry run last night with great results. It was -10 last night but the garage was a toasty 50 (gas fired modine heater) and the rims system kept the mlt at 153-154 varying only a degree. 2 seperate thermometers to ensure stability. Now I have gathered all the goodies and want to make sure of my temps? My initial strike water will be higher due to cooler grain and mlt not warmed up. so I am planning around a 175 degree strike, the mlt is now insulated so that helped tremendously. Now my initial mash will be at 154 for 60 min stirring ocassioinally, after 60 min I will take my first runnings and measure for proper amount. then I will run my hlt and slowly pump in the 2cnd runnings water till it rides above the grain bed and recirc for approx 15 min. and continue till I hit mt boil volume. Is this correct. Or can I try to do a second runnings for the remainder of the boil volume. This will be a 5 gallon batch. I will be doing 2 of them, now I know I can do a 10 gal batch but would rather toss 1 5 gal if I have to instead of 10gal. Let me know what you think

:rockin:

MB,

I personally have NO experience with batch sparging, so I cannot answer your question without shooting in the dark.

Id love to help, but I refuse to give advice, unless I am 100% certain, or have experience in the matter. Sorry bro!!

GLAD to hear that the RIMS lives!

I think I might of asked you this before but, after my first runnings I think I asked you if you put in the rest of your pre-boil volume water, and recirc the rest for 15 to 20 min at mash out temps?

Thanks again,

I know I may be a pain in the a#@ but, could you give me your data for the centeniel blonde recipe, 5 gal batch, I have the recipe, but temps and times and volumes I know your system is different and I will take that into consideration.

There's an all grain primer in my sig for basic batch sparging info.

Mainebrew said:

I think I might of asked you this before but, after my first runnings I think I asked you if you put in the rest of your pre-boil volume water, and recirc the rest for 15 to 20 min at mash out temps?

Thanks again,

I know I may be a pain in the a#@ but, could you give me your data for the centeniel blonde recipe, 5 gal batch, I have the recipe, but temps and times and volumes I know your system is different and I will take that into consideration.

Click to expand...

I will get this to you after b-fast... k? Not a problem

#1. Though I have never done it, it seems that after your first sparge, adding your remaining water, recirculating again to set up a nice grain bed, then running off again, would make sense. Id do it.

#2. Here is what I use for the Centennial Blonde recipe.

Strike with 4.4 gallons of water at 158F (preheat this water to 168F), let it cool and the MLT heat, when it reaches 158F, mash in. This should rest at 150F. (this will allow for nearly equal ammounts of sparge and mash water)

Mash for 60 minutes

Run-off

Add the remaining 4.2 gallons of sparge water (170F) to the MLT... recirculate for 10-15 minutes, until wort runs clear. Run off remaining wort.

I have NEVER batch sparged, but I know many people try to use equal ammounts of mash and sparge water, so that is what I used in this example.

Here is that All Grain Primer. Just need to find a post by Bobby_M and it's in his signature.

Pretty ambitious of you do this giant build with never doing AG. How did you know you'll prefer RIMS to HERMS? Or even to a standard 3 vessel system with pumps?

I got this stuff in a giant local score and thought I would put it to use, as for the build I am pretty mechanical, I work for a hvac company. And I thought why not, I guess I am ambitious or obsessed POL thanks for the info, and bobby that is a great write up!

MB... you need to get some pics up of this beast! Cmon... you cannot built it and brew on it without letting us see pics first. Heck, it may not even exist!

The Pol said:

MB... you need to get some pics up of this beast! Cmon... you cannot built it and brew on it without letting us see pics first. Heck, it may not even exist!

Click to expand...

+1

Pics r in my profile, I still need some help to throw them in the message thread. What website r u guys using to upload pics?

:rockin:

I post mine to photobucket, then inert the URL here

Here you go... This is MB's system.

Nice, heres the link Image of h2o test run - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

It is pretty clean looking...

I mean, I hate messy and cobbled looking rigs. I like them clean, neat.. tidy, well constructed.

Yours is nicer than most... if you can pick up those cords from the floor where the water is, it will be real pretty

The fewer the hoses, cords etc hanging around, the nicer it looks... Like I said, yours looks nice and not as cobbled as some! NICE first rig!

Already done that, Zip ties are magical, Since the pics I changed controls and changed burners. It cleaned up real nice. I will post some more pics while brewing tomorrow, temps this morning at the house were -25.1 deg, burr. Good thing for heated garages, still will have to crack the door though. Thanks for all the help and useful info.

:rockin:

More pics to follow:

POL GOOD LUCK TOMORROW !!!

Glad to see it came together brother... nice setup. Nicer than most rigs I have seen.

Yeah, you can always count on The Pol when you need help with a "RIMS job".... :cross: