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mart1058

mart1058

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I've read a lot of the recipes and threads about a Pliny The Elder clone, mostly all-grain, and one extract, and I wanted to post what I thought is a summation of all that information, and get any feedback before I brew this one.

I will be doing a full boil and shoot for 6 gallons of wort at the end of boil.

10.25# Breiss Golden Light DME, half at beginning of boil, half 15 minutes before end of boil
9oz Crystal 40, steep @ ~151 for 30 min
23oz of Dextrose, added at flameout

Hops:
3.5oz Columbus for 60 min
0.75oz Columbus for 45 min
1oz Simcoe for 30 min
1oz Centennial for 0 min (hopstand)
2.5oz Simcoe for 0 min (hopstand)

14 day primary.

1.5oz Columbus, 1oz Simcoe, .5oz Centennial dryhop for 14 days

.25oz Columbus, .25oz Simcoe, .125oz Centennial, .25oz Amarillo dryhop for 5 days

Plan to make a WLP001 yeast starter according to MrMalty. Shoot for an OG of 1.070 and a FG of 1.011.

Thanks for any feedback, looking forward to brewing this beer I've heard a lot about and am unable to get my hands on!
 
I like it, that's pretty much an extract version on the recipe I've done before. Look into doing a "hop stand" for the "0 min" hops. There is a great article in the current BYO on this method, and it is an awesome technique for making hop bombs.
 
I just brewed that as an all grain yesterday. I wanted to make sure i had 6 gallons post boil so i started with 7.75-8 gallons preboil b/c all the hops and 90 min boil. Wife just called me at work b/c fermentation is so active she is worried the 001 is rocking.
 
I think I ended up boiling a little too much, had a little more than 6 after the boil. My fermentation is going nuts as well, pretty exciting.
 
Yeah, that's good to know. Definitely a lot of hops left over after moving to the carboy, and still some in the carboy...
 
I know! I can't believe how many hops I got! It was smelling great.

I will report back when I get to try it.
 
I think 6 gallons post-boil is good. When you transfer from kettle to primary, you lose say 1/4-1/2 gallon to trub. And the clone recipe assumes 5 gallons AFTER fermentation.

Did you use Columbus pellets in the early boil, or HopShot? Was a vigorous boil reached before you added the first hop addition? The reduced boil length coupled with the fact that you added about 300 IBUs of hops to a reduced OG at boil start are of some concern. But it could be minimal. Let us know how the final results taste.

For the dryhop, I recommend dryhopping stage 1 in the primary for 6 days, then racking on top of a second stage of dryhops in the secondary for another 6 days. So, assume approx 2 oz. during each stage. This method is much more simple than adding/removing hops in the same vessel. It will also taste/smell much fresher than leaving both stages of dryhops in the same vessel for 12-14 days.

Don't be discouraged if the FG is slightly higher, perhaps about 1.013-1.015 in your case. It is tougher for extract and minimash brewers to hit their target FG as closely as an all-grain brewer can. Good luck!
 
That's what ended up happening, lost some to trub, so I think I got about 5.5 into the carboy, maybe a little more. Then plan to lose some to the dryhops.

I was kind of planning on dryhopping both stages in the primary, after primary fermentation was complete, just tossing each round in on top of each other. So you would suggest getting it off all the trub for round 2?
 
mart1058 said:
That's what ended up happening, lost some to trub, so I think I got about 5.5 into the carboy, maybe a little more. Then plan to lose some to the dryhops.

I was kind of planning on dryhopping both stages in the primary, after primary fermentation was complete, just tossing each round in on top of each other. So you would suggest getting it off all the trub for round 2?
Click to expand...

For this beer, I would personally dryhop in both vessels, and rack to secondary for the second stage. That doesn't mean you have to heed my advice if you want to make things more simple and are okay with less clarity in your beer. You can dryhop totally in the primary if you decide.

My thoughts are that you should have no problems with headspace in the secondary due to the fact that you have enough beer to work with. After the 2nd stage of dryhopping, you can cold crash for a day then pitch a 2/3 cup solution of water and 1 tsp. gelatin. Give it two more days at these cold temps. before you bottle for a clear beer.
 
mart1058 said:
I was kind of planning on dryhopping both stages in the primary, after primary fermentation was complete, just tossing each round in on top of each other. So you would suggest getting it off all the trub for round 2?
Click to expand...

I would, mainly for ease of removing each round of dry hops, but also because it may be better to dry hop off of yeast altogether. Dropping yeast can take hops resins down to the bottom and out of the finished beer. Nothing wrong with dry hopping in primary though, I do it a lot, but for something getting multiple rounds, or a super hoppy beer (this being both) I'd go for doing both off of the yeast. If you use buckets, and bag the dry hops, you can just remove the first round when adding the second.
 
bobbrews said:
I think 6 gallons post-boil is good. When you transfer from kettle to primary, you lose say 1/4-1/2 gallon to trub. And the clone recipe assumes 5 gallons AFTER fermentation.

Did you use Columbus pellets in the early boil, or HopShot? Was a vigorous boil reached before you added the first hop addition? The reduced boil length coupled with the fact that you added about 300 IBUs of hops to a reduced OG at boil start are of some concern. But it could be minimal. Let us know how the final results taste.

For the dryhop, I recommend dryhopping stage 1 in the primary for 6 days, then racking on top of a second stage of dryhops in the secondary for another 6 days. So, assume approx 2 oz. during each stage. This method is much more simple than adding/removing hops in the same vessel. It will also taste/smell much fresher than leaving both stages of dryhops in the same vessel for 12-14 days.

Don't be discouraged if the FG is slightly higher, perhaps about 1.013-1.015 in your case. It is tougher for extract and minimash brewers to hit their target FG as closely as an all-grain brewer can. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I used Columbus pellets and yes I got it to a vigorous boil before adding them. What would the effects be?

I was also kind of expecting not to get down the FG I want.
 
bobbrews said:
For this beer, I would personally dryhop in both vessels, and rack to secondary for the second stage. That doesn't mean you have to heed my advice if you want to make things more simple and are okay with less clarity in your beer. You can dryhop totally in the primary if you decide.

My thoughts are that you should have no problems with headspace in the secondary due to the fact that you have enough beer to work with. After the 2nd stage of dryhopping, you can cold crash for a day then pitch a 2/3 cup solution of water and 1 tsp. gelatin. Give it two more days at these cold temps. before you bottle for a clear beer.
Click to expand...

Good to know, I will follow your plan, I like the idea of a clearer beer, along with the fresher taste you previously described.
 
NordeastBrewer77 said:
I would, mainly for ease of removing each round of dry hops, but also because it may be better to dry hop off of yeast altogether. Dropping yeast can take hops resins down to the bottom and out of the finished beer. Nothing wrong with dry hopping in primary though, I do it a lot, but for something getting multiple rounds, or a super hoppy beer (this being both) I'd go for doing both off of the yeast. If you use buckets, and bag the dry hops, you can just remove the first round when adding the second.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, didn't think of the resins going down to the bottom, only thought of them going out with the CO2...
 

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