MY HLT's progress

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dmfa200

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
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Location
Madison
Just wanted to show how my HLT is coming along.
My thanks to all the guys out their sharing info.

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Niiiice.

Do you have a SS coil to connect to those compression fittings?

:rockin:

Yes, I am using 25' of 1/2" .020 stainless tubing for the coil. I agonized over whether to go cheaper and use copper, but after hearing about the pro's of using stainless I went with that.
 
Looks fantastic!

Did you "pull" the couplings through or just make a nice tight fit up?

Ed

Ed,

I just used a step bit to get the hole close, and used a flapper wheel on an end grinder to get the fit snug enough that the coupling would stay put with out tacking. You can use a file, but power tools speed up the process.
On the half couplings I play it safe and thread a nipple with teflon tape in the coupling to make sure the coupling stays round until the welding is complete. Remember what I said about welding on small short pieces?
The teflon tape insures that the threads don't gall from the heat. Stainless steel threads are notorious for galling.
I've mentioned this in another thread. A center drill works better than a drill bit or step bit for starting a hole in stainless. I learned this from my machinist boss.
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Ed,

I just used a step bit to get the hole close, and used a flapper wheel on an end grinder to get the fit snug enough that the coupling would stay put with out tacking. You can use a file, but power tools speed up the process.
On the half couplings I play it safe and thread a nipple with teflon tape in the coupling to make sure the coupling stays round until the welding is complete. Remember what I said about welding on small short pieces?
The teflon tape insures that the threads don't gall from the heat. Stainless steel threads are notorious for galling.
I've mentioned this in another thread. A center drill works better than a drill bit or step bit for starting a hole in stainless. I learned this from my machinist boss.
TN_Center_Drills.jpg

So you used a flapper wheel small enough to fit inside the hole?

I'm familiar with galling. I had to cut a 2" plug out of a fitting when I had my kegs welded... what a pain.

I know I put WAY too much heat into the purge I made and that is probably part of why it distorted so much. But actually, it becoming kind of oval is a benefit. GreenMonti suggested I make it oval (he meant after it was welded), so it would fit the contour of a keg a little better. I didn't do it on purpose, but didn't worry too much about it. I have a lot to learn about heat distortion and working with it. I work with wood, so I'm used to material movement, but not so much while in the assembly process.

I read somewhere about heating one side of an object causing distortion. If I had pre-heated the entire purge with a propane torch prior to welding, would it have distorted less?

Ed

Edit: Sorry for the off topic post, forgot what thread I was in.
 
The more heat you apply to a metal the more it will expand.
If the heat is not applied evenly to the entire part it will expand more in the area that the heat was applied. This is what causes distortion or warping.
In the case of welding your applying a lot of localized heat to the object, so your going to cause that area to expand, and move. The issue that you need to be aware of, is welds shrink as their cooling.
What happens is, the heat from welding causes the area to expand, you then add filler metal, and when you stop the weld and the area around it starts to cool and begin contracting. Only problem is it's hard to control the amount shrinkage when a weld cools off.
That's why it's important to control the amount of weld metal deposited. The more weld you apply the more weld mass you create, and the weld will shrink, pulling on the surrounding weld area distorting it.
This is most evident when tack welding something together, but you may have already seen this for yourself while practicing.

The answer to pre-heating the purge cup is no, it would have made matters worse. You only have to pre-heat thick metals, some alloys, and metals that are in freezing temperatures prior to welding.

These flap wheels come in various sizes
images%5CFM.jpg

This is a common abrasive for cleaning the oxide layer off stainless prior to welding.
 
Yes Ed, I have already coiled it.
It is approximately 10 inches in diameter.
I received in a large coil about 16 inches in diameter.
Started wrapping around a large acetylene cylinder about 12" in diameter and then moved to an Argon cylinder that is 9" in diameter.
You are advised to not and try to take it down in size too drastically all at once.
Gradually step it down in size.
I worked it by hand, although it was tough, and I had to take a break every now and then, it worked well. Wouldn't you say?

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Looks like you built an e-keggle, is that a hot water heater element I see at the bottom of the keggle in the first picture?
 
Yes, it's a 5500w element.
I'm beginning my HERMS build, based off the website http://theelectricbrewery.com/
This is a comprehansive website for anyone interested in building a HERMS.
Of course you don't have to go all out like they did.
I'm putting my own twist on in, mainly because the only way I could get away with spending that kinda cash is if I was single.
2 20gal Blichmann kettles = $800
2 15gal Sanke kegs from Craigslist = $30
Yeah, I'm a cheap-a**
 
Yes, it's a 5500w element.
I'm beginning my HERMS build, based off the website http://theelectricbrewery.com/
This is a comprehansive website for anyone interested in building a HERMS.
Of course you don't have to go all out like they did.
I'm putting my own twist on in, mainly because the only way I could get away with spending that kinda cash is if I was single.
2 20gal Blichmann kettles = $800
2 15gal Sanke kegs from Craigslist = $30
Yeah, I'm a cheap-a**

heh, yeah we've seen Kal's (and drooled over) web site. But seriously, this one of the things I absolutely LOVE about this hobby. The sky is the limit with possibilities, tinkering, and plain old back-yard engineering. You can drop as little or as much money as you want and still make great beer.

Nothing wrong with being a cheap-ass. If you like it and it brews beer that you like...F'em! :rockin: :tank:
 
sco999,
Yes, I made the weld from the outside, fusing the coupling to the kettle with a root pass. Then made a final pass adding filler.
 
I think this is how I will have my new kettles welded.
Thanks!!

sco999,
Yes, I made the weld from the outside, fusing the coupling to the kettle with a root pass. Then made a final pass adding filler.
I've been welding for quite a while, so I can make this weld even under less than ideal conditions.
 
I was showing the wife a basic AG with plastic coolers, a upgraded system with keggles and BCS control then a all out save no money full tilt "Bling of NASA".
Results, plastic cooler brewery "I can live with it", keggles w/BCS control, "watch it your into it more than store bier prices for many years", then the full tilt "Bling of NASA, she "would have three witnesses and doctors have me committed to a rubber room while she spends our estate money being single".

I myself would feel ashamed to tell anyone how much money I spent if I just purchased a bunch of premade shiny brewing components vs the "thrill of the hunt" assembling and building another brewery with my own design ideas.
I'm in the group called "The Cheap Azz Club".

We should have a seperate thread titled "The Cheap Azz How I Built It Club"........Attention TxBrew.

...............................................................Larry the Cable Guy comes to mind....................................
 
Yes, it's a 5500w element.
I'm beginning my HERMS build, based off the website http://theelectricbrewery.com/
This is a comprehansive website for anyone interested in building a HERMS.
Of course you don't have to go all out like they did.
I'm putting my own twist on in, mainly because the only way I could get away with spending that kinda cash is if I was single.
2 20gal Blichmann kettles = $800
2 15gal Sanke kegs from Craigslist = $30
Yeah, I'm a cheap-a**

Ya I am pretty familiar with that website and I am doing exactly the same thing as you are. My setup will be an all indoor electric brewery in a room that is in my basement I am building out especially for my brewery as I finish my basement. I picked up 3 sanke kegs and will be converting them into the equivalent kettles Kal used for his setup. Did you cut the tops off using an angle grinder, thats what I am going to do this up coming weekend.

I might have to go with weldless fittings unless I find someone local that can do the welds for me. Worst case i use the weldless stuff first.
 
adurotec,
I work as a welder/fabricator for an aerospace company so I have all the tools and equipment I need at my disposal.
To cut the tops I used a plasma arc. I fashioned a trammel attached to a 2" hole saw that fits perfectly in the top of the keg, marked the cut line with a sharpie, and cut the lid out freehand leaving the line. I then used a tiger disk to finish the hole grinding to the line I marked with the sharpie. This allowed me to finish the circle perfectly round.
 
Yes Ed, I have already coiled it.
It is approximately 10 inches in diameter.
I received in a large coil about 16 inches in diameter.
Started wrapping around a large acetylene cylinder about 12" in diameter and then moved to an Argon cylinder that is 9" in diameter.
You are advised to not and try to take it down to in size too drastically all at once.
Gradually step it down in size.
I worked it by hand, although it was tough, and I had to take a break every now and then, it worked well. Wouldn't you say?

Yep, I'd say your coil looks pretty darn nice.

I have a coil of .020 that's about 24" in diameter. I started to form it around a 10g corny (about 13" in diameter) and kinked it twice in the first 5 feet. I definitely realized you have to stay focused, take your time, and work it close to the form you are using.

Ed
 
Ed,
Can you still use the coil? How severely did you kink it?
Did you have help, having someone hold the tube tight to the corny while you worked it around?
 
Ed,
Can you still use the coil? How severely did you kink it?
Did you have help, having someone hold the tube tight to the corny while you worked it around?

I can still use it. It started as a 50' coil and I've only used a few feet so far.
I could probably use the section that has the kinks but have enough that I can cut it off.

I was by myself and definitely see where extra hands would be helpful.

Ed
 
Yeah, sometimes it's hard to be patient and listen to your intuition.
I do that a lot. The last time I didn't listen I ended up with 13 stitches in my thumb.
 
Updates on my HLT.

Taking forever to get my brewstand done!

I know some of you are wondering what the motorized paddle is for.

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Very nice!!!

Don't feel bad about it taking you awhile... mine has been a work in process for way over a year!

Ed
 
They paddle is cool. No stratification in there! I used an Shmanheiser Shmbusch keg for my mash tun and it took a polish better than my other two brand kegs. I don't know if it's a better grade of stainless but it polished way nicer and faster.
 
They paddle is cool. No stratification in there! I used an Shmanheiser Shmbusch keg for my mash tun and it took a polish better than my other two brand kegs. I don't know if it's a better grade of stainless but it polished way nicer and faster.

I got a deal on the motor and a speed controller. Both for $30. It's a completely sealed DC motor.
I figure a paddle should break the envelope just as well as a recirc. pump.
The water should see less heat loss than with using a pump.

The paddle shaft is a keg spear. I turned a piece of Aluminum oversize and pressed it into the spear, along with a set screw to hold it to the motor shaft.
 
I love the motorized mash paddle idea. The whole project is looking pretty nice.
 
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