American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

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^ I think if you want to keep some of the malt flavor, dont dry hop with all 3 ounces. Maybe try 1.5 ounces for 5-7 days then taste. With 3 oz. it gets a lot of hop flavor and aroma. At least thats what I noticed.
 
I brewed the partial mash version of the recipe last night but used wlp007. I drastically missed my OG, at 1.052. I was thinking of adding either some honey or dextrose to the primary to boost the ABV. To the people who have brewed this, any suggestions? I realize it won't be a true clone, but I don't want to have a 4.4% brew on my hands. Any suggestions would greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
TMannion87 said:
I brewed the partial mash version of the recipe last night but used wlp007. I drastically missed my OG, at 1.052. I was thinking of adding either some honey or dextrose to the primary to boost the ABV. To the people who have brewed this, any suggestions? I realize it won't be a true clone, but I don't want to have a 4.4% brew on my hands. Any suggestions would greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Did you take in consideration the calibration of your hydrometer? I think most are set for 60 degrees for an accurate reading.
 
1.052 was my temperature adjusted reading. Even if the wort wasn't mixed well enough AND a had a terrible conversion on the mini mash, I feel like the OG is still far too low.
 
badbrew said:
I hope there's some malty flavor in this cuzz I have too many hopped up brews right now.:tank:
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It's hoppy by gosh, that's the point of this beer, but it's not very bitter. Lots of hop flavor and aroma though!

I'd advise against the recommendation above to reduce dry hops to increase maltiness. Dry hops don't change the base beer, only add hop aroma and grassyness. The aroma of hops can mask the aroma of malt, which may fool your nose/taste to think it's less malty.

A lot of taste is with our nose, which is kinda neat. ;)

~Adam
 
I did a little taste test last night on two of my beers, this one FWH'd with 0.75 oz and another beer FWH'd with 2.0 oz. There is a noticeable bitterness difference (obviously) between the two, but the 0.75 oz FWH hop in this beer balances pretty well against the malt.

Cheers,
~Adam
 
m_stodd said:
I need a sanity check on the AG recipe:
I'm going to do BIAB, so after I sparge or whatever, I should do my First Wort Hop, then when my boil starts, do normal hopping again at 15, 10, 5, 1?

Also a question about the extract/partial:
Why does the extract/partial have a First Wort Hop and a 60 minute hop? Because of the volume difference?
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Anyone?
 
m_stodd said:
Anyone?
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I did BIAB, and just forget the term First Wort hop, it doesn't really apply to BIAB. Use it at 60 minutes just like the rest of your brews. Or just add after you remove the grain and heat to start the boil. Either way, you are just adding bitterness at that point and not much in the way of hop flavor. I used Magnum for this so I didn't waste Citra to bitter. Should work fine
 
I did BIAB, and just forget the term First Wort hop, it doesn't really apply to BIAB.
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Yup, just as skeezer said above; you can add your FWH to the wort as you remove / rinse your BIAB grain bag.

In fact, that's exactly what I do with all-grain. I did not add my FWH until my kettle was full of my pre-boil wort (7 gallons) and I had the flame on to bring it to a boil.

Cheers,
~Adam
 
I'd like to brew this, but I don't have any Melanoiden or Aromatic. I'm also not really comfortable with doing a decoction.

What I do have is this:
Carahell 20-30EBC/10-15 SRM
Caraamber 60-80EBC/30-40SRM
Crystal 120EBC/60SRM
Caraaroma 350-450EBC/180-230SRM

What do you guys think I could do?
 
Do you think I'd be ok using WLP001? I am about to do my first yeast washing and was hoping to use it to brew this awesome clone.
 
I have never subbed it, but probably at least 1:1, maybe a little higher % Munich removing some 2row if needed. The reason I say it instead of crystal is to reduce the sweetness the crystal would bring. I have also seen people reference melanoiden as "much on steroids" FWIW.
 
skeezerpleezer said:
I have never subbed it, but probably at least 1:1, maybe a little higher % Munich removing some 2row if needed.
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I'll just sub it 1:1 this time and see what I think. I'd rather error on the lighter side.

One other question: I've put everything in beersmith and it all looks good except that first wort addition. Beersmith has that clocking in at 29.6 IBU for me with 12% Citra. I've never done a first wort addition, so I'm not sure if I should trust beersmith's calculations or yours. Maybe I have entered it incorrectly in the software. I don't really know.

w9k5nd.jpg
 
What do you guys think I could do?
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Buy a half pound of Melanoidin and Aromatic. It's like...$4 :) - If you get a whole pound of each, you can add the other half to your next beer and see how you like it.
 
AOD said:
Buy a half pound of Melanoidin and Aromatic. It's like...$4 :) - If you get a whole pound of each, you can add the other half to your next beer and see how you like it.
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I don't have a good local store, so I have to get everything mail order. It costs a lot in shipping because there isn't even a good mail order company in my country. One company exists, but it's not a good one. I have to order from Germany or Belgium. I'll order some the next time I do a big bulk order.
 
skeezerpleezer said:
I usually set the time to 20min for FWH since it is a "smoother bitterness", and people liken it to a 20 min addition.
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Does your software estimate FWH?

I've been using TastyBrew.com recipe calculator for years on my recipes and it has a pretty good estimate for FWH. You can experiment with it by changing 60 min boil to FWH, etc.

But I have heard most folks say the 'perceived' bitterness from FWH is like a 20 minute hop addition. I find the target IBU important especially if planning FWH as the main bittering hop in a beer. I usually focus on this "60 minute hop" IBU to set the balance for the beer. 10-20 malty, 20-30 balance, 30-40 pale ale, slight bitter IPA, 40+ IBU, IPA's and highOG.

The Zombie Dust is focused on just enough "60 minute" bitterness to balance the rich malt (from specialty grains and yeast) in this beer. Cool part is you can get that with FWH and the bonus of '
'perceived smoothness' of FWH. Good stuff.

~Adam
 
okay, I did a quick search of this thread and didn't find any hits so I apologize if this is redundant: Did you find you need a diacetyl rest with the 1968 for this? In looking at the Wyeast book they recommend one for 1968. I've never used a yeast that needed one, but I'd rather ask a dumb question than assume the answer.
 
Re: diacetyl in Wyeast 1968

If you pitch a healthy starter and keep your temps in check; it would be unlikely you need a diacetyl rest. To be safe, pull a sample on day 6 or so. If its buttery, run your ferm temp up to 70 and give it a few days. The nice thing about diacetyl is that it is easy to detect and clean up.
 
johngaltsmotor said:
okay, I did a quick search of this thread and didn't find any hits so I apologize if this is redundant: Did you find you need a diacetyl rest with the 1968 for this? In looking at the Wyeast book they recommend one for 1968. I've never used a yeast that needed one, but I'd rather ask a dumb question than assume the answer.
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As a general practice I always raise the temp 2-3 degrees as fermentation slows down. Typically with 002/1968 I'll pitch around 62-63* and ferment at 66* (so within 24 hours its usually there) and as fermentation slows down (typically indicated by krausen dropping) I'll raise the temp 1 degree per day until I hit 68-69*.

That is essentially what Firestone Walker does with their house strain that is close to the Fullers strain (according to their head brewer). I've had good results with that so I've used that for most of the beers I brew with this strain (which is a lot). I have had diacetyl issues when I've rushed beer into kegs with this yeast, but not since I started doing the ramped up fermentation temp.
 
Thanks Jammin & AnchorBock. I didn't see a problem with adding a diacetyl rest at the end so I'll add this to my technique as a belt and suspenders approach.
 
The D-rest doesn't hurt, but I've found if you maintain a constant temperature and give the yeast enough time in the beer, it will clean up.

I kegged a Black IPA (1.065) with WY1968 yesterday, it was 13 days in the fermenter at 64F. No diacetyl at all. (I used oxygen stone and nutrient, fwiw)

I think people may find diacetyl in the beer because they see how fast it ferments and pull the beer of the yeast too soon!
 
Sheldon said:
Putting together the recipe. Can I get a consensus on the mash time and temp.

Thanks,

Sheldon
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I used 148-149F about 75 minutes for my beer and thought it was good. If you want slightly more body or a smidge of sweetness, go above 150F.

~Adam
 
Mine is about to go into the keg. Got a fresh one the other day for a side by side.

392988_2573538834707_1733540644_n.jpg
 
I brewed this tonight, biab and I came in low at 1.051 og. It smelled unbelievable before pitching. Might be a little less alcohol than the original, but I'm pumped. I'll update in 1 month! Thanks for the recipie! I haven't tried the original zombie dust, it's impossible to find in Ohio right now.
 
I brewed a batch 2/2/13 and was so happy that nothing went wrong during the day (spills, burns, leaks, etc) that I was watching the air pump bubble away as I realized... I forgot to get an OG. :eek:
Oh well. Not that ABV matters, but it would have been nice to see if sparge technique revisions improved my mash efficiency.
If it tastes anywhere near as good as it smelled this will go in the "brew again" folder.
 
Put together a partial over the weekend, super excited about it.

It's not normal to throw $18 worth of hops in a 5 gallon batch of beer, but on meth it is
 
I live in NC and have tried to get some zombie dust to try, I found out you camnt get it unless you live closer to the brewery. Anyone know of a place to order it?
 
I would try and use the trading section and see if you can offer up something that you have down there that we don't have up here.
 

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