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BattleGoat said:
FINALLY getting a chance to brew tomorrow. I've got all the equipment in a bucket waiting for sanitizer, found a nice spot for my fermenter, and have all my grain weighed out and ready.

Man, this whole "learning to brew" thing is nervewracking! But it's gonna be a good time. I have two quick questions though:

1. My hydrometer came with a little slip of paper that describes how to use it. In the bit that describes how to correct for readings taken from a sample that's not 60 degrees, there's a little chart that looks like this:

Wort Temp. Correction
52.2 -0.001
60 none
66.6 +0.001
72.4 +0.002
​
Am I correct in understanding this to mean that as long as my sample is within 52.3 - 66.5 degrees, I don't actually have to make any correction in order to ascertain my OG? I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I have a pretty gnarly math learning disability, so I want to make sure I get this right.

2. When fermenting, roughly how many degrees outside of my target temp can I get without risking off flavors? My target temp for the beer I'm making (a stout) is 68F. The spot I'll be keeping the fermenter hangs out at about 71-73F. I was planning on setting the fermenter in a tub of water with a towel over it to help knock off a few degrees - but if this isn't gonna be enough to knock it down to a reasonable range, I may be able to relocate the fermenter to a somewhat cooler area.

So yeah - sorry for the huge post! Just making sure everything is on track for the A.M. :ban:
Click to expand...

1. if you get to the stage (on your first batch) where you are worried about your OG reading to the thousandth of a percentage point, I will raise a glass and salute you.

2. if you have a basement, or cellar, just put your fermenter down there. the ambient temp should be ok, unless you live somewhere really hot.

3. remember the first rule of home brew

Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew.

just go for it, and have fun, and don't freak out with every burp and fart the fermenter makes.
 
Hey one galloners! (I just coined a new term, I'm charging $0.10 per use)

I want to brew up a brown ale for my dad (for Christmas) so I'm in the market for a simple ag brown ale recipe....maybe similar to Newcastle (but nit the same, that is one tough clone recipe...).

A perfect recipe would consist of 2-4 malts and one or two hops.

Ready set go! (thanks in advance)
 
dadshomebrewing said:
1. if you get to the stage (on your first batch) where you are worried about your OG reading to the thousandth of a percentage point, I will raise a glass and salute you.

2. if you have a basement, or cellar, just put your fermenter down there. the ambient temp should be ok, unless you live somewhere really hot.

3. remember the first rule of home brew

Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew.
Click to expand...

^^^^^ This....
 
BigRock947 said:
So here is my next recipe, I don't normally drink IPAs but I'm trying to expand my horizons.

Anyway...

1-Gallon Warrior SMaSh:

2 lbs of Vienna Malt
2g FWH Warrior 16%AA
2g 45 min. " " "
2g 15 min. " " "
2g 0 min. " " "

1/4tsp Irish Moss @ 15 min. - clarifying

SG 1.059
IBU 97.1
Mash @ 155 for 60 min.
Boil for 60 min.

I may try this same recipe without the FWH.

Any thoughts on this recipe?
Click to expand...

Hey Guys:

I posted this SMaSH recipe over the weekend and I was curious about what to expect from such a hop forward recipe. Should I back off the hops and bring IBU's down a bit? I've never used Warrior Hops. Thanks.
 
BigRock947 said:
Hey Guys:

I posted this SMaSH recipe over the weekend and I was curious about what to expect from such a hop forward recipe. Should I back off the hops and bring IBU's down a bit? I've never used Warrior Hops. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I think it may end up being too bitter if you don't. You should be able to taste the malt and the hops in a SMaSH so this would be overpowered by bitterness from the Warrior 60 min addition. Look up IBU's to Gravity unit chart ( see below) and that should get you the chart from designing great beers from Ray Daniels.

In a nutshell, bring your IBU's a little lower than the OG (in numbers) example OG is 1.050 so maybe an IBU of 40 would be good for trying out your recipe. Also, Warrior is a great neutral battering hop so it may not give you much in flavor and aroma but that's the whole purpose of your recipe is to see what flavor and aroma there is in Warrior.

EXAMPLE
The two bit’s of information we need are the IBU’s and the original gravity.
IBU = 25.2
OG = 1.073
We then lose the 2 preceding digits on the OG to give us 73.
Then divide the IBU by the OG
IBU/OG = 25.2 / 73 = 0.35
So therefore the BU:GU = 0.35

image-1573195254.jpg
 
rawkstar320 said:
Hey one galloners! (I just coined a new term, I'm charging $0.10 per use)

I want to brew up a brown ale for my dad (for Christmas) so I'm in the market for a simple ag brown ale recipe....maybe similar to Newcastle (but nit the same, that is one tough clone recipe...).

A perfect recipe would consist of 2-4 malts and one or two hops.

Ready set go! (thanks in advance)
Click to expand...

I just took this from BYO Recipe Data Base scaled on Promash:

Dark Streets of London

1.25 lb of Pale Malt - 2-Row
1.6 oz of 40L Crystal Malt
1.6 oz Molasses

.12 oz Northern Brewer 7% 60min (3.4g - I would round down)
.10 oz East Kent Goldings 5% 30 min (3g)
1/8 tsp of Irish Moss 15 min

SG 1.040
IBU 27 (Seems a little high - see rounding above)

the recipe calls for 90 minute boil, I would start the boil and wait for the Hot Break happen then proceed with a 60 minute boil add hops as scheduled.

Pitch 2 to 3 g of Favorite English Dry Yeast - I use S-04 at 60 - 75 degrees
Ferment at 60 to 72

Sounds good ....may have to try this myself.
 
divrguy said:
I think it may end up being too bitter if you don't. You should be able to taste the malt and the hops in a SMaSH so this would be overpowered by bitterness from the Warrior 60 min addition. Look up IBU's to Gravity unit chart ( see below) and that should get you the chart from designing great beers from Ray Daniels.

In a nutshell, bring your IBU's a little lower than the OG (in numbers) example OG is 1.050 so maybe an IBU of 40 would be good for trying out your recipe. Also, Warrior is a great neutral battering hop so it may not give you much in flavor and aroma but that's the whole purpose of your recipe is to see what flavor and aroma there is in Warrior.
Click to expand...

Thanks...I like the suggestion of IBU's to match or be lower than SG. It gives me a good reference point. I think I may drop the FWH and adjust from there.
 
BigRock947 said:
Thanks...I like that suggest of IBU's to match or be lower than SG. It gives me a good reference point. I think I may drop the FWH and adjust from there.
Click to expand...

Of course if you are a total hophead, the BU:GU ratio of a normal IPA doesn't work....lol. I like my IPA's pretty dang hoppy so I tend to be closer to 1 in the ratio.
 
divrguy said:
Of course if you are a total hophead, the BU:GU ratio of a normal IPA doesn't work....lol. I like my IPA's pretty dang hoppy so I tend to be closer to 1 in the ratio.
Click to expand...

Never been a Hophead. I do like a good APA. I know of guys that just love IPA's so I'm trying to at least try them and brew a couple of high hop SMaSH's

PS: Not being a hop head is a tad strange considering I love the smell of the hops before I put them into the wort
 
BigRock947 said:
I just took this from BYO Recipe Data Base scaled on Promash:

Dark Streets of London

1.25 lb of Pale Malt - 2-Row
1.6 oz of 40L Crystal Malt
1.6 oz Molasses

.12 oz Northern Brewer 7% 60min (3.4g - I would round down)
.10 oz East Kent Goldings 5% 30 min (3g)
1/8 tsp of Irish Moss 15 min

SG 1.040
IBU 27 (Seems a little high - see rounding above)

the recipe calls for 90 minute boil, I would start the boil and wait for the Hot Break happen then proceed with a 60 minute boil add hops as scheduled.

Pitch 2 to 3 g of Favorite English Dry Yeast - I use S-04 at 60 - 75 degrees
Ferment at 60 to 72

Sounds good ....may have to try this myself.
Click to expand...

This looks good, think fuggle hops would fit? They seem to be in a lot of recipes and I still have a whole pack to use. :)

Thanks a ton.
 
rawkstar320 said:
This looks good, think fuggle hops would fit? They seem to be in a lot of recipes and I still have a whole pack to use. :)

Thanks a ton.
Click to expand...

Now bear this mind...I'm still learning about high hops and grain works together but yeah fuggles should work fine. Its an English-style hop and I like it for my porters. Check out BYO's hop chart...great reference.

Besides that's half the fun trying different combinations and flavors...
 
Fuggle would be a great choice if you want i can throw that into beersmith and adjust the bitterness with the hops you have. Do you know the aa on the fuggles
 
Does anyone have a link to a nice 1-2 gallon counter top semi automated brewing system ?

I'm thinking of something electric for all grain with at least 1 pump for circulating the mash.

Is a 5 gallon Gott insulated beverage cooler too large to use for a mash tun for 2 gallon batches ?

I'm building a nice 5, 8 and 15 gallon brew system for brewing in my garage. Me thinks it would be nice to have a 1-2 gallon indoor system for doing test batches before scaling them up. Or is that overkill ?

Thanks
 
Brewed my first beers last Wednesday. A one-gallon dunkelweiss, a one gallon wheat pale ale, and a one gallon braggot. Three seperate beers, all done in-doors. Started about 8:00 AM, was finished and cleaned up before the wife got off work at 5:30.

Another reason one gallon batches are awesome? I switched my hops on accident. I'm going to have a 30IBU dunkelweiss. If it's nasty, that's only 6-8 beers wasted.
 
brewman ! said:
Does anyone have a link to a nice 1-2 gallon counter top semi automated brewing system ?

I'm thinking of something electric for all grain with at least 1 pump for circulating the mash.

Is a 5 gallon Gott insulated beverage cooler too large to use for a mash tun for 2 gallon batches ?

I'm building a nice 5, 8 and 15 gallon brew system for brewing in my garage. Me thinks it would be nice to have a 1-2 gallon indoor system for doing test batches before scaling them up. Or is that overkill ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

This can be scaled down or kept as is for a gallon set up. I would love to do this put electricity scares me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110v-recirculating-ebiab-2-5-gallon-batches-341219/
 
brewman ! said:
Does anyone have a link to a nice 1-2 gallon counter top semi automated brewing system ?

I'm thinking of something electric for all grain with at least 1 pump for circulating the mash.

Is a 5 gallon Gott insulated beverage cooler too large to use for a mash tun for 2 gallon batches ?

I'm building a nice 5, 8 and 15 gallon brew system for brewing in my garage. Me thinks it would be nice to have a 1-2 gallon indoor system for doing test batches before scaling them up. Or is that overkill ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I use a 5 gallon Cooler for my 1 and 2 gallon brews but if you only need the 2 gallon, they are like $10 at the Depot and would take up less space.

flipfloptan said:
This can be scaled down or kept as is for a gallon set up. I would love to do this put electricity scares me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110v-recirculating-ebiab-2-5-gallon-batches-341219/
Click to expand...

Wow!! I read that whole thread and I gotta say I am very jealous of that system, but I dont think my wallet could handle it even though it is around $500. Plus, my little 1 Gallon BIAB's look a lot easier to maintain... lol
 
So far so good. Turning up the temp on the mini fridge to speed things along. Has been fermenting at about 60-62 and bin its going up to 70 to help speed up the cleanup process.
 
Now to breakfast stout I brewed the large batch of is in the bath tub around 68 and that's doing good also. I enjoyed brewing the large batch until cleanup time then I kicked myself. No place to clean it out easily.
 
I brewed the Brooklyn Brew Shop Bourbon Dubbel this weekend and I gotta say those Brooklyn kits are impressive little kits.
I may end up giving this one away though. When I tasted the wort, it reminded me of most of the other Belgians I didnt like. I guess I better stick with APA's...IPA's...Stouts...Bitters....Porters...Heck I better get brewing!!
 
flipfloptan said:
This can be scaled down or kept as is for a gallon set up. I would love to do this put electricity scares me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110v-recirculating-ebiab-2-5-gallon-batches-341219/
Click to expand...

Its nice, but its BIAB, not AG (no mash tun) and I don't see a pump or a chiller.

It get excited thinking about doing small batches in the house but then I start thinking about the equipment I'd need (basically a full on brew stand, but smaller) and my wife complaining about the house smelling like a brewery and I revert to thinking I should just brew 5 gallons in the garage and throw out what I don't like.

Any advice ?
 
cheesecake said:
Brew in a bag is all grain....
Click to expand...
Yeah, sort of. Having done all grain with a mash tun, even if I did BIAB, I'd want a pump for recirculating the wort while "mashing" and then also for pumping it through the chiller.

By the time I muck around with a couple kettles, a pump, a chiller and hoses, I've recreated a brew stand on a smaller scale. I might as well brew on the big stand I'm building and throw out what I don't like. I can buy a lot of ingredients for what I'd spend putting together a small system.

Or am I wrong ? Has someone been done this road and have experience to share ? Does anyone have a full on large batch brewstand and still found it very handy to brew 1 gallon batches ?

Thanks !
 
One more thing... at the 1-2 gallon batch size, is there anything wrong with putting a pot onto a regular stove burner instead of embedding a hot water heater element into the pot ?

Does anyone know of a good brew pump that is smaller/cheaper than the typical March/Chugger pumps ?
 
cheesecake said:
Fuggle would be a great choice if you want i can throw that into beersmith and adjust the bitterness with the hops you have. Do you know the aa on the fuggles
Click to expand...

I plugged it into my app (BrewR - Android app) and was able to work with the fuggles. I will probably use them (since I have them, a little bag goes a long ways in 1 gallon brews). I'll keep everyone posted!
 
brewman ! said:
Yeah, sort of. Having done all grain with a mash tun, even if I did BIAB, I'd want a pump for recirculating the wort while "mashing" and then also for pumping it through the chiller.

By the time I muck around with a couple kettles, a pump, a chiller and hoses, I've recreated a brew stand on a smaller scale. I might as well brew on the big stand I'm building and throw out what I don't like. I can buy a lot of ingredients for what I'd spend putting together a small system.

Or am I wrong ? Has someone been done this road and have experience to share ? Does anyone have a full on large batch brewstand and still found it very handy to brew 1 gallon batches ?

Thanks !
Click to expand...

brewman ! said:
One more thing... at the 1-2 gallon batch size, is there anything wrong with putting a pot onto a regular stove burner instead of embedding a hot water heater element into the pot ?

Does anyone know of a good brew pump that is smaller/cheaper than the typical March/Chugger pumps ?
Click to expand...

Brewman, btw, BIAB is all grain... All the way. On the cheap. You don't need fancy pumps. Just a paint strainer bag... They cost almost 2 bucks. You already probably have a 4-5 gallon pot and a milk jug can be used as a fermenter. So, where are you going to go broke with this set up?

I do all grain big batches as well so I know. I have more money in my big mash tun than my entire small batch setup. Lol
 
Great thing about small batches biab, I am not worried about the 66% rye beer that I am brewing up this week. Would be really hard to stick the sparge on a bag.

Thinking about casting it too. Anybody up around 8am-12ish central on wed thats not working?
 
flipfloptan said:
Are you keeping it at the 2.5 gallon volume or going smaller? Do you have an electrical background?

Please have a brewcast when you start using this rig.
Click to expand...


I have a electric 10 gallon pot that i use. Im going to keep it 2.5 gallon but i really want to be able to do 1 gallon batches in it so im still on the search for a narrow pot. when its done it will be like that with the pump to recirculate the mash water. And of course ill brewcast:rockin:
 
JollyIsTheRoger said:
Great thing about small batches biab, I am not worried about the 66% rye beer that I am brewing up this week. Would be really hard to stick the sparge on a bag.

Thinking about casting it too. Anybody up around 8am-12ish central on wed thats not working?
Click to expand...


if only it was thursday..:tank:
 


There is a video of my large pot. Function over form....

Thats what everyone says when they make ugly junk....LOL
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No the rtd is off to the side. Under the element is the dip tube pre bent and cut. The temp was off because I had to callibrate the pid and make the temp adjustments still.
 
So, brewday is upon me and I could use some advice. I just loaded my strike water into my kettle and set up my grain bag, and I've only got about an inch of headspace left in the kettle - am I gonna have room for my grain (about 2.5lbs)?

I'm considering removing about a half gallon of water, then doing a small sparge once the mash-in is overwith and the grain bag has been removed from the main kettle to bring it back up to volume before the boil.

Not worried about any of this, per se - just want to know what the best course of action is. Thanks y'all!
 

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