Bypass fridge light switch to keep warm

It's my first winter with a kegerator out in the garage and I'm concerned about freezing. The garage is detached and not insulated. I live in cleveand, so it will see some single digit temps before spring.

I've read about people adding a light bulb. I'm thining it makes sense to bypass the switch on the fridge light. Does this seem like it will be adequate? I'm not sure what sort of heat loss my fridge will see at 5 degrees. Has anyone else tried this?

Man that's tough, those fridge lights are very small, I can't see that keeping it up to temp.

This thing would work.http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWER_S_EDGE_SPACE_HEATER_P518.cfm

wildwest450 said:

Man that's tough, those fridge lights are very small, I can't see that keeping it up to temp.

This thing would work.http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWER_S_EDGE_SPACE_HEATER_P518.cfm

Click to expand...

I think I remember someone here having one of those catch on fire. Not sure though.
I just have a magnetic based shop light that I stick in mine. Not really worried about the door not sealing up 100% seeing how freaking cold it's got to be outside for me to need it.

I've thought about using a reptile heating pad, switched with a ranco or other kind of temp controller... No idea if it would be powerful enough (or too much for that matter)--I haven't really investigated them too much. For that matter, a brewbelt is probably cheaper by the wattage...

If the light is 25-40 watts, it will be fine. I don't think a 7 watt would do it.

40 watt bulb in the back. I was able to pop the switch out. Then I trimmed some plastic to give me a little slack wire so I coul get it into the fridge and out of the way of the door. Finally, I duct taped it to the ceiling of the fridge. One of the adavantages of having a kegerator that's a rusty POS somebody on Craig's List was giving away is you don't mind cutting it up a little bit or having eelectrical wiring duct taped to the ceiling.

I think this is going to prove to be a very simple and effective solution. 40 watts seems like it should be plenty to keep a very well insulated box above 29 degrees or so. I'd guess it's actually more than I need.

Does anyone know if the ban on incandescent bulbs includes fridge lights? I should probably stock up now.

I've been using a 16 watt reptile heater pad with good results. It maintains 70F in a 14 cu ft upright freezer sitting in a ~36F garage.

I'm certain I could go higher than 70F, I just currently have no need to...

I've thought about the incadescent ban, is it 100W bulbs next year?

Edit: ah 100W in 2012


Many of these state efforts became moot when the federal government enacted the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 in December 2007, requiring all general-purpose light bulbs that produce 310–2600 lumens of light [19] be 30% more energy efficient (similar to current halogen lamps) than current incandescent bulbs by 2012 to 2014. The efficiency standards will start with 100-watt bulbs in January 2012 and end with 40-watt bulbs in January 2014.

Light bulbs outside of this range are exempt from the restrictions (historically, less than 40 Watts or more than 150 Watts). Also exempt are several classes of specialty lights, including appliance lamps, "rough service" bulbs, 3-way, colored lamps, and plant lights.