ebay aquarium temp controller build

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1. It may be only settings issue (looong delay time for saving fridge compressor).
2. Proper wiring issue (diy?)

Could you tell us what are you settings? (press and hold Set button)
PS. Is it scaled in F (not C) ???

I will once i get home this evening. I was really looking to getting a definition of what each setting was....

it is in F

I'll also take a pic of my wiring diagram



ROFL after looking through about 50 pages. I found the manual on page 249, going to confirm connections and set accordingly.
 
I will once i get home this evening. I was really looking to getting a definition of what each setting was....

it is in F

I'll also take a pic of my wiring diagram



ROFL after looking through about 50 pages. I found the manual on page 249, going to confirm connections and set accordingly.

With my posts per page settings there are only 34 pages in this thread for me, so I'm not sure which manual you're looking at. Most of this thread is in reference to the STC-1000, which has different wiring and different programming than the unit you have, so the manual you found may or may not be helpful. Just in case the manual you found isn't the correct one for your unit, here's a diagram and some programming instructions-

7028-single-stage.jpg


Press the SET key once to enter the control temperature setting, press ▲ or ▼ keys to adjust your set point temperature. Press SET button again to exit setting mode.

Press and hold SET button for three seconds to enter the system menu settings, press ▲ or▼ button to select the menu, press the SET button once to enter the appropriate parameter settings, press ▲ or ▼ button to modify the parameters.

After adjustment, you can exit by pressing the RST key, or by waiting for 5 seconds.

Menu codes:
HC Heating or Cooling mode control
d Temperature differential
LS Minimum set limits
HS Maximum set limits
CA Tempreature calibration
PT Compressor delay

The compressor delay comes factory set to 1 min, so if you weren't waiting 1 min for the relay to activate after turning the unit on, that very well could have been your problem. Once you get it up and running, I'd suggest putting the compressor delay at the max setting (10 min) to protect your compressor from short cycling.

Hope this helps. :mug:
 
+1 for 10 min compressor delay. Prolonged lifespan guaranteed.

Hi

Very true except for *right now*. I just finished cleaning all my beer lines. When I do that I unplug the keezer. Just got it back on power and now I have to wait an extra 10 minutes to start cooling down..... I'm THIRSTY ....

Bob
 
Patient my friend, be patient! ;) By saying prolonged lifespan, I was also refering to your livers :)

Hi

But my liver's thirst too....

Also looks like the short cycle prevention is doing it's thing just fine. Held off for 10 minutes after power up. Then cooled down and cut out. Since the beast is warm inside, it went back up pretty fast. Short cycle cut in and it holding off re-starting the compressor.

Still thirsty ...

Bob
 
Sorry to stretch this...i bought single stage controllers, but there are no instructions with it to set it and get it start the power to the outlet...

i can set a temp but can't seem to get it to fire up.

thanks
john
That looks like the new single stage I just substituted for my STC-1000. It was labeled as a CH54 on the box. Just didn't like that celcius.:drunk:

I see an interesting difference between yours and the two I just purchased. The front bezels of mine have "Work" or "Cool" on the left and "Set" on the top along with a ones digit that is short like the decimal digit of the STC-1000. In fact upon inspection it appears to use the same LED module as the STC-1000. However, your front bezel indicates "Work" and "Set" both on the left and has a full size ones digit. I notice these kinds of things.:eek:

Here's an image of both pages of the instructions that came with mine. If you can't read it, I can send you a pdf if you message me with your email address.


7933-page-1.jpg


7934-page-2.jpg
 
Hi

That's the WilHi something controller. Not as fancy as a STC-1000 and the relay is only rated to 5 amps. The STC-1000's are running about $17 delivered and the WilHi's are about $3 less.

Bob
 
Hi

That's the WilHi something controller. Not as fancy as a STC-1000 and the relay is only rated to 5 amps. The STC-1000's are running about $17 delivered and the WilHi's are about $3 less.

Bob
The two I have are not labeled as Willhi's but they likely have a common source.
7931-label.jpg


The relay is the exact same part as in my STC-1000 and is rated at 15A.
7928-relay.jpg
 
The two I have are not labeled as Willhi's but they likely have a common source.
7931-label.jpg


The relay is the exact same part as in my STC-1000 and is rated at 15A.
7928-relay.jpg

Hi

Yes indeed that is the exact same relay as the STC-1000. It's also the same PC board from what I can see in the picture.

Bob
 
Just finished building it and seems to be working great. Thank you so much Android! Saved me at least $80.
I'm about to brew my first lager tomorrow. Using temp controller with my large chest freezer. What would you all recommend setting my F2 value at?
 
Getting ready to build a proper ferm chamber, 3 questions. I'm sure they've been answered but I don't have the time to read the whole thread:

1. Any difference between the STC-1000 and the unlabeled, cheaper, but looks exactly-the-same controllers on eBay?

2. Does the STC control both a heat source and the freezer/fridge? I need a dual stage for the high desert climate (hot days, COLD nights).

3. Are these just as good as the Ranco/Johnson/Love controllers? They seem quite a bit cheaper, so I just want to be sure they'll last and are accurate.

Thanks.
 
cinderbike said:
Getting ready to build a proper ferm chamber, 3 questions. I'm sure they've been answered but I don't have the time to read the whole thread:

1. Any difference between the STC-1000 and the unlabeled, cheaper, but looks exactly-the-same controllers on eBay?

2. Does the STC control both a heat source and the freezer/fridge? I need a dual stage for the high desert climate (hot days, COLD nights).

3. Are these just as good as the Ranco/Johnson/Love controllers? They seem quite a bit cheaper, so I just want to be sure they'll last and are accurate.

Thanks.

1. If you're referring to the WILLHI WH7016C controllers, they're different. The WH7016C is single stage. Sounds like you need dual stage.

2. Yes, the STC is dual stage and can control both heating and cooling, just as the OP states.

3. Yes and no. In functionality they are the same. If you like things like warranties, then no. They are not the same. I don't think these eBay controllers come with any sort of warranty.
 
For the savings, I can buy 2-3 of these before things like a warranty would matter. That's all I needed to know, thanks.
 
Getting ready to build a proper ferm chamber, 3 questions. I'm sure they've been answered but I don't have the time to read the whole thread:

1. Any difference between the STC-1000 and the unlabeled, cheaper, but looks exactly-the-same controllers on eBay?

2. Does the STC control both a heat source and the freezer/fridge? I need a dual stage for the high desert climate (hot days, COLD nights).

3. Are these just as good as the Ranco/Johnson/Love controllers? They seem quite a bit cheaper, so I just want to be sure they'll last and are accurate.

Thanks.

Hi

There are some dual (heat / cool) control units on eBay for about $3 less than ones labeled "STC-1000". As far as I can see the $16 ones are indeed the same as the STC-1000. Hopefully mine will get here soon and I can compare them. The STC-1000 is actually made by WilHi (however you spell it). It may be made by multiple outfits ...

Bob
 
barrooze said:
3. Yes and no. In functionality they are the same. If you like things like warranties, then no. They are not the same. I don't think these eBay controllers come with any sort of warranty.

While I think you're correct about the lack of any warranty, I feel it's important to add that these units are NOT flimsy or shoddily built. As you said, they have all the features, and they are also just as accurate. Given these facts, the lack of a warranty should hardly be a concern because you could replace it a couple times and still spend less than a similar-featured "brand name" controller.
 
Hi

There are some dual (heat / cool) control units on eBay for about $3 less than ones labeled "STC-1000". As far as I can see the $16 ones are indeed the same as the STC-1000. Hopefully mine will get here soon and I can compare them. The STC-1000 is actually made by WilHi (however you spell it). It may be made by multiple outfits ...

Bob

Do you have a link? The only dual stage units I've found are the STC-1000. All of the others I've seen that look very similar are single stage, and can control either heating or cooling, but not both at the same time. I have a couple of each, and I've been happy with all of them. I actually prefer the temp probe and programming options on the single stage units, but they're not ideal for most ferm chamber builds.
 
Hi

There are some dual (heat / cool) control units on eBay for about $3 less than ones labeled "STC-1000". As far as I can see the $16 ones are indeed the same as the STC-1000. Hopefully mine will get here soon and I can compare them. The STC-1000 is actually made by WilHi (however you spell it). It may be made by multiple outfits ...

Bob

You are correct. These WillHi units do both heating and cooling, but as stated above, not at the same time. They are single stage and can be set to do either/or. I bought several of these units, just to be greatly mistaken. I've posted this several times already on this thread. Be very careful of what you're purchasing if it does not specifically call out "STC-1000".
 
I think it is hilarious that we are in a DIY thread and someone brings up "Warranties"

Started using my controller Sunday evening when I plugged in a fridge to it. A good 24 hours later I was putting in 5 gallons of Home Brew IPA "ThunderHead" IPA. (There was a hell of a lightning storm going on close to my house while I was brewing it yesterday evening)

ThunderHead IPA Ferm Fridge.jpg
 
My thanks goes out to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I bought a single-stage controller (heating isn't ever really a problem here in the Holy City), and I successfully wired it up last night.

The controller is worth every penny of the $14ish I paid for it. All told, I got this project done with about $25 worth of inputs.

I will be using this to control a submersible pump / immersion chiller / swamp cooler setup, so a compressor delay is of little concern to me.

For those of us using the single-stage, what settings would you recommend for the LS and HS variables below? I guess I'm unclear on what those are. Maximum and minimum allowable temperatures?

EDIT: After deciphering the poorly-translated manual, it does appear that the LS and HS variables are used to limit the min and max temperature that you can set the unit to. By default, they are set to allow the entire range of the unit.

Press the SET key once to enter the control temperature setting, press ▲ or ▼ keys to adjust your set point temperature. Press SET button again to exit setting mode.

Press and hold SET button for three seconds to enter the system menu settings, press ▲ or▼ button to select the menu, press the SET button once to enter the appropriate parameter settings, press ▲ or ▼ button to modify the parameters.

After adjustment, you can exit by pressing the RST key, or by waiting for 5 seconds.

Menu codes:
HC Heating or Cooling mode control
d Temperature differential
LS Minimum set limits
HS Maximum set limits
CA Tempreature calibration
PT Compressor delay

The compressor delay comes factory set to 1 min, so if you weren't waiting 1 min for the relay to activate after turning the unit on, that very well could have been your problem. Once you get it up and running, I'd suggest putting the compressor delay at the max setting (10 min) to protect your compressor from short cycling.

Hope this helps. :mug:
 
I bought one of these for my keezer. I was wondering what most of you are setting the temp to?

I believe optimal temp is 32*F. The conversion shows this to be 0*C.

Does this seem correct to you?
 
I bought one of these for my keezer. I was wondering what most of you are setting the temp to?

I believe optimal temp is 32*F. The conversion shows this to be 0*C.

Does this seem correct to you?

I'd do something in the neighborhood of 40-42 degrees for a kegerator/keezer, but it's your preference. I don't recommend 32, it's way too cold (you won't taste anything when the beer's that cold) and your lines might freeze.
 
I bought one of these for my keezer. I was wondering what most of you are setting the temp to?

I believe optimal temp is 32*F. The conversion shows this to be 0*C.

Does this seem correct to you?

I'd do something in the neighborhood of 40-42 degrees for a kegerator/keezer, but it's your preference. I don't recommend 32, it's way too cold (you won't taste anything when the beer's that cold) and your lines might freeze.

^^^^^Yes...

32*F is WAY too cold for your homebrew. Now, if you have a keg of ML or CL in there, you won't taste anything anyways so go ahead and make sure that CL is "Mountain Cold"
I have been known to drink dark brews like porters at room temperature just to enjoy the BIG flavors!!!
 
Just ordered one off eBay for a keezer conversion. May have to refer to this thread for wiring diagram. Thanks guys
 
Brickout said:
Thanks!

One last question, what you guys setting the temp difference to?

I set mine as small as possible. On the STC-1000 I think it's 0.1 or 0.2. But it's important to make sure the compressor delay is set to the highest.
 
EDIT: After deciphering the poorly-translated manual, it does appear that the LS and HS variables are used to limit the min and max temperature that you can set the unit to. By default, they are set to allow the entire range of the unit.

Yep. I left the LS and HS at the factory settings for my keezer. For the units controlling my HERMS I set them so that my "helpers" on brew day can't easily adjust the mash temperature out of the normal range of mash temps.

I bought one of these for my keezer. I was wondering what most of you are setting the temp to?

I believe optimal temp is 32*F. The conversion shows this to be 0*C.

Does this seem correct to you?

As others have said, that's a bit cold. Some of it is personal preference, but you could have issues with frozen lines at 0°C/32°F. Most bars keep kegs at 34°-36°F, which is colder than I prefer. Many distributors require bars to keep colder temps as a way to minimize off flavors from infected lines and faucets that don't get cleaned enough. FWIW I keep my keezer at 40°F (~4.5°C).

Thanks!

One last question, what you guys setting the temp difference to?

For my keezer I have the temp difference set to 2°F, and I have my ferm chamber temp difference set to the minimum 0.3°C (~0.5°F), and the compressor delay set to the max of 10 min on both.
 
Hi

Tape the sensor to the wall of the freezer and set the delta to between 4 and 6 C. Watch the compressor cycle and adjust accordingly. The set point will depend a lot on just where the probe wound up. Anything between 0 and 6 C is possible for a delivery temperature (what you care about) of 4C to 6C.

At least around here, beer comes out of the tap and starts warming up. Warm glass, 80 to 90F temp out on the porch. It's not at delivery temp for very long at all. Serving temp is closer to 10 C than it is to 5.

Indeed that's one of may ways to do it. Probably not the best way for ales, pretty good for laggers. Also good for long term storage.

Bob
 
So here's what I did.

I taped the sensor to the side of a jar filled with water.
F1 (Temp set value) I have set to 5*C
F2 (Difference set value) I have st to 3*. This means one the inside reaches 3* above the temp set value the compressor kicks on.
F3 (Compressor delay time) I have set to 10 min.
 
Just built one of these based on the pics and wiring diagram. Works like a charm! I wonder why someone doesn't sell these pre-built on eBay.
 
Where in the 181 pages is the wiring diagram? I would like to wire mine up along with an extra outlet if possible. Thanks for all the info.
 
One last question... I am concerned that I accidentally got the 220V version. Is there a way to verify which version I have without opening the box? I'd rather avoid the restocking fee.
 
One last question... I am concerned that I accidentally got the 220V version. Is there a way to verify which version I have without opening the box? I'd rather avoid the restocking fee.

Hi

Somehow I feel like I've answered this before....:)

There is nothing on the outside of the box (other than a sticker) to tell you which version you have. No sticker = you gotta open up the packaging. If you are refering to opening up the case of the unit to check the pc board - no you don't have to tear into the case. The markings on the transformer can be read through the vents.

Bob
 
Well im in for one!! Should start my chamber build this weekend! Thanks for all the info everyone! And the pics for inspiration on how to install.

Total $23.99 USD
Payment $23.99 USD

Neil
 
I think I may have made an error. I recently bought one of these things - the CH54 model - off eBay, for $10.30 plus about $5 shipping. I was all proud of myself for getting it so cheap, but, after reviewing this thread, I re-read the posting on eBay and saw that the relays were only rated for 5A. Uh oh. If I wired this thing up to a keezer, I might burn the house down, yes? Do I need to go back to the drawing board and buy a different model? If so, it's a pity; I think the one I got displays in Fahrenheit, which I would have appreciated.

I don't even have the chest freezer yet, so I'm not in a hurry (well, I am, but I'm trying to be patient)... I hope to split an extension cord and mount the unit to the keezer collar, so I can see the display from the front of the keezer. I've seen pics on this board where people have done that, but I haven't seen anybody's in-depth build on how they mounted/ran wires. I did try searching... If someone has detailed such a build, I'd very much appreciate a link. Thanks in advance!

FWIW, the model I got will only control heating OR cooling at any given time. That's fine for me, since I'm in Houston and don't need to heat anything beer-related.

-j
 
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