McMaster Keg O-Ring List

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I use regular Buna-N o-rings for both posts. They work fine. Haven't had many issues as long as the QDs aren't being shifted to the side.
 
I use regular Buna-N o-rings for both posts. They work fine. Haven't had many issues as long as the QDs aren't being shifted to the side.

good to know, thanks! I just hate to spend the money on silicone and have 200 post orings if I can jsut use the Buna-N only. I know that probably sounds cheap, but that's less money I can spend on beer haha
 
One more question on these o-rings. Does anyone know a part number for the replacement o-rings for universal poppets? I know that they can be replaced, I just can't find it anywhere what orings those would be.
 
I just ordered this whole lot and everything checks out perfectly on my ball-locks, really helpful thread guys, thanks!

Also a huge kudos on McMaster Carr's delivery, less than 18 hours from order!
 
I haven't used them yet, but I ordered #008 Silcone Orings for my universal poppets based on recommendations from an HBT thread discussing these. Mcmaster part number 9396K13.


One more question on these o-rings. Does anyone know a part number for the replacement o-rings for universal poppets? I know that they can be replaced, I just can't find it anywhere what orings those would be.
 
I ordered all my orings from oringsandmore.com I went all silicone to be safe. Silicone rings #'s 109, 111, and 417. If these aren't correct someone please say so I ordered a bunch at one time and an going off memory
 
Finally ordered my o-rings yesterday at around 4:30, got them around 2:30 today. That is fast shipping! thanks for compiling this list gremlyn
 
McMaster is awesome in terms of shipping, but they are pretty pricey. I just ordered everything except the -417 (the lid o-ring) from O-ring warehouse for much cheaper. I still have to get the -417 from Mcmaster, but it's always good to save a little.
 
McMaster is awesome in terms of shipping, but they are pretty pricey. I just ordered everything except the -417 (the lid o-ring) from O-ring warehouse for much cheaper. I still have to get the -417 from Mcmaster, but it's always good to save a little.

those the silicone O-rings, or the buna ones? I always opt for the (more expensive) silicone ones. Don't mind saving a few bucks though.
 
They were the silicone ones. $0.03 apiece for all except the post o-rings (-111), which were $0.05. They have a minimum of $5 per item, so I ended up with quite a few (167) of each, but still cheaper than McMaster for more of them. They also have a pretty slick order interface. My apologies too; I totally sound like I work for their marketing department.
 
No need to apologize for letting everyone know about a bargain! I'm certainly going to add them to my list of resources! Next series of days off, I'll see if I can compile a similar list to the one from McMaster for their O-rings. Makes life easier. Right now, except for the lid rings, I have enough to last (of both silicone and buna) for a pretty long time.
 
They were the silicone ones. $0.03 apiece for all except the post o-rings (-111), which were $0.05. They have a minimum of $5 per item, so I ended up with quite a few (167) of each, but still cheaper than McMaster for more of them. They also have a pretty slick order interface. My apologies too; I totally sound like I work for their marketing department.

Too bad they don't have the silicone lid o-rings. Those are the expensive ones at $2.22 per o-ring. On that topic, the OP might want to update the current pricing on the various products. The silicone lid o-rings show $7.88 for a 5-pack, when they are currently at $11.09.
 
Has anyone ever used these for the lid? They are only 3/16s cross section, but they are quad seals. Maybe they will be better for a leaky keg.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90025K551

or these yellow ones? I read they may be softer and larger.

http://www.rcbequip.com/item5101.ctlg

I'd be interested to hear about those quad seal o-rings for the lid as well. If they fit like the quad seal post o-rings, that would be great. Those post o-rings are exceptional at sealing. They seal even with a basic hand tightening.
 
theres been a bunch of chatter lately of leaky kegging systems due to post o rings sized wrong for pin locks. i went through this earlier this winter, and ordered the rings up listed in this post, but they just arent big enough. so if anyone has pin lock kegs and are having problems with gas leaks, or worse yet, liquid, this is the size that worked for me:

3/32 thick
1/2 id
11/16 od


if you wiggle your post and you hear gas leaking, you need bigger o rings. hope this helps.

oh and if anyone is looking for ball lock o rings, i have a whole bag of them sitting here, will trade for hops, etc.
 
In a former life I spent eight years engineering which often required specifying orings. I also recently acquired 10 pin locks so I thought I would jump in. The oring bible is the parker o-ring handbook: http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD 5700 Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

2-111 orings have an ID of .424 and an OD .630
This is for a gland of .463 and a bore of .625

2-112 orings have an ID of .487 and an OD of .693
This is for a gland of .525 and a bore of .687

My measuring of pin lock posts and connectors shows a gland of .485 and a bore of .655. As you can see this is between the 2-111 and the 2-112.

2-xxx are the standard orings available most anywhere.
There is another series of 5-xxx orings that are custom sizes.

Looking on the custom chart (pg 237 of the attached pdf) there is a oring that looks perfect. 5-615 has an ID of .469 and an OD .675

Now these custom oring often require a large order with expensive tooling setup charges, but sometimes one can get luck and a dealer has them on the shelf. I’ll call around to a few places I know but it will likely be just as cheap to order the proper oring from places like CHI.

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_1_3_6&products_id=2547

Finally if I was going to use one of the standard orings I would use the 2-112. Because it is larger it has more material to squeeze into the gland which would be more likely to seal.
 
fifelee, sweet we now have an o ring guy! i think we have a couple orings that came on used kegs that were actually bigger than the sizes i listed. work good. the replacement ones that shipped with my used kegs, and the smaller ones in this thread, NFG.
 
....
2-111 orings have an ID of .424 and an OD .630
This is for a gland of .463 and a bore of .625

2-112 orings have an ID of .487 and an OD of .693
This is for a gland of .525 and a bore of .687

My measuring of pin lock posts and connectors shows a gland of .485 and a bore of .655. As you can see this is between the 2-111 and the 2-112.
.....

I was looking at Mcmaster-Carr metric o-ring sizes and this one appears to be in between the #111 & #112.

2.5mm x 12mm : ID of 0.472 / OD of 0.669 / thickness of 0.098

In Silicone: 2.5mmx12mm

Could these be a better option for pinlock kegs?
 
I was looking at Mcmaster-Carr metric o-ring sizes and this one appears to be in between the #111 & #112.

2.5mm x 17mm : ID of 0.472 / OD of 0.669 / thickness of 0.098

In Silicone: 2.5mmx17mm

Could these be a better option for pinlock kegs?


I think the oring you are looking at is the 12mm (.472 ID) x 2.5mm (.098 W). This looks close but the width is a concern. I did some calculations. Normally static oring seals are set up to compress about 18%. From my measuring the correct pin lock oring setup has a 16% compression. A bit lower then standard but still okay. The metric oring you mention has a reduced width and the compress ends up being about 12%. What I think could work is go to a 3mm oring with a reduced ID. The 10mm (ID) x 3mm (W) will have to be stretched over the post, but this would also reduce the width to be close to the standard. This results in about a 20% compression. Just an idea I may get around to trying.

FYI the 2-111 only has a 11% compression. That is why some people have had issues with leaks.
 
I think the oring you are looking at is the 12mm (.472 ID) x 2.5mm (.098 W)....
thanks, I fixed the link

..... This looks close but the width is a concern. I did some calculations. Normally static oring seals are set up to compress about 18%. From my measuring the correct pin lock oring setup has a 16% compression. A bit lower then standard but still okay. The metric oring you mention has a reduced width and the compress ends up being about 12%. What I think could work is go to a 3mm oring with a reduced ID. The 10mm (ID) x 3mm (W) will have to be stretched over the post, but this would also reduce the width to be close to the standard. This results in about a 20% compression. Just an idea I may get around to trying.

FYI the 2-111 only has a 11% compression. That is why some people have had issues with leaks.
Thanks for the analysis. Does this mean that, as designed, the pin lock connector has non-standard compression or non-standard oring requirements? Given its frequency of use, maybe it was designed with low compression for ease of connection? Of course the low compression results in a higher rate of poor seals and requires added attention to connector alignment.

When I make my next McMaster-Carr order, I will try these: Silicone Oring 10mmx3mm
 
Thanks for the analysis. Does this mean that, as designed, the pin lock connector has non-standard compression or non-standard oring requirements? Given its frequency of use, maybe it was designed with low compression for ease of connection? Of course the low compression results in a higher rate of poor seals and requires added attention to connector alignment.


"Standard" isn't an exact science and I could have slightly miss-measured the orings and post on my pin locks. Also the plastic connectors I have maybe off a bit as plastic is difficult to accurately manufacture, especially bores. The 16% is from my measuring of my parts. The true pin lock specification maybe 18%. Either way 16% is acceptable. I hope the 3mm work for you. It may be difficult to stretch them that far and as they stretch they will become harder so the connector may be difficult to put on, but you should get a good seal. That said silicone will make stretching easier.
 
Spartan1979 said:
Does any one have an answer for this? I have a keg that leaks around the lid. I can't get it toseal.

The first post has all the part numbers.
 
Does any one have an answer for this? I have a keg that leaks around the lid. I can't get it toseal.

A leaky lid is usually due to a bent lid or keg rim. A flat surface and a hammer can straighten a lid. Keg rims are tricky but a hammer, a flat punch, and some patience can fix most leaks.
 
A leaky lid is usually due to a bent lid or keg rim. A flat surface and a hammer can straighten a lid. Keg rims are tricky but a hammer, a flat punch, and some patience can fix most leaks.

Dead-on! But if you still have a little trouble sealing, use a little extra keg lube on the large lid O-ring (and use the silicone one. It is a bit more pliable than the neoprene ring -I keep both in stock, personally) -but as fifelee wrote, the most important thing you could do would be to straighten out any bends or dents. Get it as clean and like the original shape as you can. It doesn't take much to make a seal fail. One last thing you might try: sometimes the lids' "spring" lock gets a bit worn, and I have had to bend the latch a little more toward the inside to make a stronger amount of pressure against the keg (to hold the lid tighter) but be careful -if you don't do it evenly, you could easily end up with a bigger problem than you started with.
 
Let's not forget about the worn keg lid feet. Much easier to replace than bending the handle.
 
A leaky lid is usually due to a bent lid or keg rim. A flat surface and a hammer can straighten a lid. Keg rims are tricky but a hammer, a flat punch, and some patience can fix most leaks.
Well said.

I wrote some information about this a bunch of years ago. It might help someone with lid sealing problems.

Getting Your Keg Lid To Seal

P-J
 
Well said.

I wrote some information about this a bunch of years ago. It might help someone with lid sealing problems.

Getting Your Keg Lid To Seal

P-J

Great info P-J. Testing the lid without a oring is a good idea. I've had many lids that I couldn't even get to fit right with no oring. Seems the oval shape of the lid and keg rim often don't match. Don't know if they are manufactured different or if the keg rim deformations over time. Either way beating on the rim a bit allow the lid to fit freely.
 
Some kegs have one lid that fits them. If I switch lids because I'm cleaning a few at a time they won't seal. Then I have to try each lid on each keg until they all seal. Same with dip tubes. Now I clean one at a time start to finish.
 
A word of warning about poppet o-rings listed above (McMaster 9396K13): they DO NOT work as replacement o-rings in Firestone / Challenger VI poppets. I tried it, and they leaked profusely, so now I have to buy new poppets. And they certainly don't fit the poppets in Cornelius made kegs. Seems that those o-rings only fit "universal poppets" that you can buy as a replacement part.
 
Anyone have any idea what the part number for this oring might be? It is the oversized one for leaky kegs.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/KEG-LID-SEALING-O-RING-P58C78.aspx

yes, i recently ordered two of them and i like them much better than the normal sized "O" rings which are sold for the ligs seals.
i have used kegs purchased a year or so ago from AIHB.

they are expensive but i think i'm gonna buy another two unless those silicon "O" ring from mcmaster are better...they sure are cheaper!
hope this helps.....

GD
 
Can you update the pricing for the o-rings, as it looks like it has changed.

You can now order 50 of the silicone ones instead of 100, which will make it easier on the wallet!




I decided to rearrange this post to be a little more straight forward with the information. The bulk of the info provided here was copied/edited/paraphrased from a Dec 2010 post on Homebrew Finds - so a big thanks to Chris (724b). Rather than copying the blog post's text, I have pared down to just the relevant details no so this is easier to read at a glance. The links and numbers below are currently for ball lock kegs, but if you have the numbers/links for the o-rings for pin locks please let me know and I will add them to the list.

  • Dip Tube O-rings $1.96/100 - 9452K172
  • Dip Tube O-rings Quad Sealing $4.46/100 - 90025K368 (better seal, less force)
  • Post O-rings Buna-N $2.15/100 - 9452K23 (liquid post)
  • Post O-rings Silicone $10.71/100 - 9396K24 (gas post)
  • Lid O-rings Buna-N $12.69/10 - 9452K218
  • Lid O-rings Silicone $7.88/5 - 9396K926
  • Internal Quick Disconnect O-rings Silicone $6.11/100 - 9396K18 (see notes)

Regarding Buna-N vs Silicone:
Most use Buna-N on the liquid posts because they are cheaper and a liquid leak will be immediately obvoius. Silicone is supposed to seal better, and is generally used for the gas posts. This also has the effect of color coding the posts as Buna-N is black and Silicone is red. Though the keg lid is generally sealing against gas coming out, most use the Buna-N for lid sealing without any problems.

Notes/Additional O-Rings:
I will list extra info and additional o-rings and part numbers here until I have enough to start reorganising it by keg type or similar.
  • The o-ring listed for the Internal QD (9396K18) aren't exactly the same as the standard square sided o-ring that comes in quick disconnects, but the HBF author stated they work well for him and I have found this to be true as well.
  • Dip Tube Silicone o-rings $9.44/100 - 9396K74 (thanks crazyworld)
  • Sanke Keg o-ring $4.67/10 - 9396k215 (thanks dstar26t)
  • barrooze reported that the standard post o-rings for ball locks appear to be a bit small in thickness for use on a pin lock post and he will try using the next thickness up (0.139").

11-8-2012 7-39-47 AM.jpg
 

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