No Chill Case Study

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Well... Id expect it to be clear. Most no chill guys have not had any lingering haze. I guess since it was flat, there was obviously no CO2, and there would probably be ample O2 in there. That being said, would we expect anything OTHER than cardboard beer in this case?

Does this prove anything, since the beer was obviously oxidized from the poor seal?

You would expect it to be clear, but many here are convinced that no-chill = hazy beer. I have shown a second example where that is not the case. It's not an ideal example, but oxidation isn't going to make chill haze go away. Like I mentioned in the first post, this proves nothing. But it does add additional evidence to the argument that no chill beer can be free of chill haze. I was hoping to add information on flavor profile but that obviously didn't happen.

I would point out that I do get chill haze in some batches. I don't actively try to stop chill haze. I don't consider it a big deal. But they are all batches I hurry and cut corners on. I would wager any of them would have chill haze despite my chilling method. I rarely get chill haze on batches I put any sort of care into.
 
Bumpin this because I will be proceeding with the experiment this Sunday. So far here is the plan, some of you no chill veterans let me know if I am doing anything wrong or what I should change in the process. It will be a Best Bitter in the 1.045 range with a split starter of Thames Valley. So ten gallons split, with the exact same starter split between the two of them. I am trying to get this as consistent between the two of these, the recipe will be as follows:

Amount ItemType
16.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)Grain
1.00 lb Amber Malt (22.0 SRM)Grain
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
2.00 oz Challenger [6.30 %] (60 min)Hops
1.00 oz Challenger [6.30 %] (30 min)Hops

The plan so far is to mash and boil as normal and run through a plate chiller into one fermenter, then bypass the chiller and run the rest into a separate fermenter. I will aerate and pitch the yeast in the chilled half, while the no chill will rest in an air conditioned room overnight then into a fridge to get down to pitching temps. Once into the mid 60s I will give it the exact same aeration and pitch of yeast as the chilled portion received.
 
Bumpin this because I will be proceeding with the experiment this Sunday. So far here is the plan, some of you no chill veterans let me know if I am doing anything wrong or what I should change in the process. It will be a Best Bitter in the 1.045 range with a split starter of Thames Valley. So ten gallons split, with the exact same starter split between the two of them. I am trying to get this as consistent between the two of these, the recipe will be as follows:

Amount ItemType
16.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)Grain
1.00 lb Amber Malt (22.0 SRM)Grain
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
2.00 oz Challenger [6.30 %] (60 min)Hops
1.00 oz Challenger [6.30 %] (30 min)Hops

The plan so far is to mash and boil as normal and run through a plate chiller into one fermenter, then bypass the chiller and run the rest into a separate fermenter. I will aerate and pitch the yeast in the chilled half, while the no chill will rest in an air conditioned room overnight then into a fridge to get down to pitching temps. Once into the mid 60s I will give it the exact same aeration and pitch of yeast as the chilled portion received.


Looks good to me, be aware that you will very likley get 80 mins utilization out of your 60 min hops and about 50 mins utilization out of your 30 min. hops. This is based on some reading and charts I saw in BYO a while back, and the results that I have gotten as well.

Kudos to you for giving this a shot.
 
Looks good to me, be aware that you will very likley get 80 mins utilization out of your 60 min hops and about 50 mins utilization out of your 30 min. hops. This is based on some reading and charts I saw in BYO a while back, and the results that I have gotten as well.

Kudos to you for giving this a shot.
Not much I can do about the utilization, I guess I'll just have to take that into consideration when tasting them. However, I will be separating them from the wort, so does what you said still apply? I will be using a hop stopper in the kettle so the hot break and hop trub into the fermenter should be minimal.

You guys got my curiosity up. Even if it makes as good of beer as a traditional method it's not something I will be making a practice of since it is actually less convenient on the system I have. But there has been a lot of discussion about it and homebrewing is all about experimentation...right?
 
FWIW, I've adjusted all my recipes to no-chill based on what Pol said - it seems to match what I taste spot on. I'm dry hopping more than I used to - all my 10 minute and under additions. I just drop them in my primary after about 10 days.

Clarity still not an issue on the 6 beers I've no chilled (still got some in primary). A few were overhopped, but I've adjusted for that.
 
As far as removing the hops from the wort... well I have been using whole leaf hops, so they are separated as well. The problem is, the hop oils are not in the hops, they end up in the wort, thus the bitterness and flavor even when the hops are absent.

For this reason, you will still get utilization in the "cube", about 20 minutes wort or so, because the hop oils are present and noticeable utilization is still taking place at temps above say 170F.
 
So now I can cut my brew time to 40 Minutes? :mug:

I will have real results on Aug 9th.


David :)
 
As far as removing the hops from the wort... well I have been using whole leaf hops, so they are separated as well. The problem is, the hop oils are not in the hops, they end up in the wort, thus the bitterness and flavor even when the hops are absent.

For this reason, you will still get utilization in the "cube", about 20 minutes wort or so, because the hop oils are present and noticeable utilization is still taking place at temps above say 170F.
I figured. Oh well, not much I can do about that. It will actually add an interesting aspect to the experiment, because you can try them side by side to see how the bitterness/hop character is effected.
 
I figured. Oh well, not much I can do about that. It will actually add an interesting aspect to the experiment, because you can try them side by side to see how the bitterness/hop character is effected.

Excellent, that will be useful
 
The experiment is underway. I brewed up ten gallons of that bitter and 5 of it is already fermenting away and the other 5 is sitting in a keg in an air conditioned room cooling down. I ran the first half through the plate chiller and pitched at 65, going to ferment at 68. The other half I just ran directly into a keg and I will give it the same ferment temps once it is cool enough. This was the first time I have used my plate chiller in months, forgot how much of a pain in my ass it is to clean.

To be honest at this point in the process I am not real comfortable with it. Everything went flawlessly and I think it should be fine but I guess it's just the feeling of adjusting to something new. As I said before this method is actually less convenient for me so it's something I likely won't persue even if it makes just as good of beer. But it certainly will be interesting for a side by side and as a point of reference when the topic comes up. I'll post back when there is something to say.
 
Well 24 hours later it is down into the 70s. I am going to pitch at 65 so I stuck it in my fermentation fridge alongside it's chilled brother that has blown off like crazy and is already slowing down. Should be able to pitch tonight.
 
I have been making my starter with the actual wort for the last few batches and works great. I don't have to chill the starter and decant, then warm back up etc... It also give me time to stabilize the fermentor at the right temp. No rushing involved.
 
I transferred into a carboy, aerated and pitched the yeast last night before going to bed. It was fermenting happily at 65 when I got up this morning. There was quite a bit of break in the bottom of the keg, so I racked off the top of that and it was perfectly clear. There likely won't be anything to say till these are done and ready to drink, from this point forward I will be treating them exactly the same.
 
/subscribe! I'm doing my first NC this weekend, if time and weather allows.

-Joe

I am doing my 4th in a week or so, my Oktoberfest ale. Followed up shortly by my Holiday Ale and then...

I really need to catch up on brewing.

Should be doing a brewcast for most of them.
 
Just a quick report. The first no chill I did was fermented the next day by a friend. The second is still in the cube3 weeks later and the third has been in the cube one week. No sign of infection.

Last Sunday I made an 11 gallon batch of Fat tire clone. I fermented one half with 1272 american ale yeast. I am going to keep the other half until October when Wyeast comes out with the exact yeast. A good test....

Changed my whole brewing setup. THANK YOU!

David the happy Brewer
 
I am interested in the side by side results of this too...I think I am going to order my cubes today. I have not been brewing as much lately due to time constraints, so if I could cut an hour out of the process it would really help me.
 
I can report the Boddingtons clone I split with a new brewer.

My 1/2 was chilled and pitched with S-05. I just sprinkled it on. He took the cube the next day and sprinkled the same yeast on. I kegged mine, he bottled his. I tasted his yesterday. Its more bitter at the end of the glass than mine. Otherwise they taste the same. I dry hopped mine. Its been a month since we brewed it. Both are cloudy.

David
 
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